I have a neighbor who had the same rust issue with his PILS. When I see him tomorrow I'll ask how he resolved it.
PILS Stainless Steel Razor...WITH RUST!
- Thread starter poonjaji
- Start date
I use non detergent sewing machine oil after I clean razor with an old toothbrush and soap. I suppose any oil would work but this does not smell much and my pint of oil is over 30 years old . Like target shooting or knife collecting part of the fun is in cleaning and polishing ..so for me after the shave comes the cleaning in a relaxed no effort spared way. If we wanted to rush we would use an electric razor. Also Q-tips are cheap.
Stainless (even 316) will rust in the presence of chlorine. I know from personal experience. I was a commercial brewer for 12 years and in the water industry for over 5 years. I don't think its a deposition from a blade as its on the wrong side. It doesn't look like rust from chlorine though. It looks like contamination while machining with a tool that was used on mild steel first to me.
Just my 2cents
Just my 2cents
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It is exactly where it would be if it was swimming over from the blade. By laws of dispersion and effusion, any chemical or physical process will tend towards areas of greater surface area. This applies on a macro scale as well. A good analogue on the macro scale would be the collection of animal hair in the corner of the room. On a flat surface, the rust has 5 cardinal directions in which it can move. In a corner, it has 3.
I agree on the account of chlorine damage. Chlorine dissolves in water to form chloride and hypochlorite ions, the concentration of which is dependent on the pH of the water before addition. Since they are both conjugates to acids, the solution they form becomes more basic, and therefore becomes a stronger reducing agent, which strips the passivation layer from the stainless steel, while disrupting the process through which it is formed. Rust as a result of chlorine, then, becomes a more generalized problem. It would not tend to congregate.
If it was contamination, the problem would disappear after the first cleaning. Since it apparently doesn't, the problem must be chronic.
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R
rainman
That's an expensive rusty razor.
Well, if you'd read the "science stuff", you'll find that the problem doesn't necessarily lie with the razor, but rather, with the blades.
In your opinion. You don't mind if others are presented in this thread, though, right?
In your opinion. You don't mind if others are presented in this thread, though, right?
No, I don't, but I do think that it is obtuse to suggest that a refund should be demanded if there is no absolute connection between the build quality and the rust.
- Thread starter
- #30
For the record, I am not seeking a refund from the vendor or PILS. I like the PILS razor. In fact, I sold off all of my collectible razors and it is now my only DE. However, as this thread reflects, I was bummed to find the rust. I just wanted to alert fellow PILS owners that they may want to take precautions, whatever those might be.
I do appreciate the scientific viewpoint.
Nature happens.
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My apologies for not delivering my message successfully. Let me try to be a bit more clear. You have seven posts in this thread. Please move on.
One of the wonderful things about B&B is that making an argument once in any given thread is actually far more respected by our members than trying to find multiple ways to argue an opinion until no one else is interested in participating out of a gentlemanly desire to avoid yet another reprisal post from the guy who can't seem to tolerate opinions other than his own. I wish you years of happy participation here with that in mind.
If I still haven't been clear, kindly reply via PM. It's late, and perhaps I'm a bit denser than usual tonight.
I agree that the tools used in the milling were non-stainless, as Talibeard has indicated here. This explains why scrubbing with scouring powder is not going to remove the rust.
Tut-tut. And my 1995 Futur has not one iota of rust.
Chris
Well, the point is it wouldn't since the contamination will be pressed so hard into the base material it is practically a part of it almost as much as its own molecules. A layer of 0.02-0.05 mm will have to be removed to get rid of it.
At least if it is what I think it is.
Glad I didn't lash out on one.
You can buy a lot of Gem's for that price. And I bet they shave a lot better too.
You can buy a lot of Gem's for that price. And I bet they shave a lot better too.
Whatever the source, I'll now make sure to oil my Pils regularly (as I do with my straights) to try and prevent any rust.
Thanks for pointing this out, and good luck!
Thanks for pointing this out, and good luck!
- Thread starter
- #36
UPDATE: The last two days were busy and I never managed to get to the store to buy Naval jelly or machine oil. However, I did have some WD-40 and last night I sprayed the rusted piece with sufficient WD-40 to actually pool in the affected areas. I left it that way for a couple hours then proceeded to take a Q-tip, and then an old toothbrush, to effortlessly scrub the rust away. Or so I imagined. Unfortunately, the WD-40 did nothing at all, and the cap remains as it did at the beginning of this thread.
Maybe naval jelly will come to the rescue....
Maybe naval jelly will come to the rescue....
Try some Break Free and let it soak for a while.
I was always under the impression naval jelly was very aggressive--even pitting or removing metal-----maybe I'm wrong about this?
You could always try some automotive parts cleaner----has a pretty high stench factor though.
I was always under the impression naval jelly was very aggressive--even pitting or removing metal-----maybe I'm wrong about this?
You could always try some automotive parts cleaner----has a pretty high stench factor though.
Wow I am actually shocked....that is a huge disappointment.
I spoke with my neighbor yesterday and he was unable to remove the rust. He did get a full refund from the vendor and went back to using his Merkur razor.
Actually, your razor is made out of stainless steel, not stain proof steel. Try leaving a stainless firearm in a humid environment without proper oiling and see what happens. Take some Flitz metal polish on the end of a Q-tip and polish the stains off. The residual polish will protect your razor from a repeat of the same issue. If you're going to store your razors for a couple of weeks or more, just take a cotton ball and wipe it down with mineral oil. It rinses off easily under running hot water the next time you want to use it. I understand your disappointment after paying that kind of money for a product. Stainless steel will require some preventive maintenance just as will high carbon or tool steel. Not as much, but not totally maintenance free either.
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