What's new

Phoenixkh: An Old Man's Continuum....

Yes, I think I do mean better bad shaves. I’m sure my bad shaves are also a lot better than my good shaves used to be.

What’s your journal telling you so far? Any clear threads that run through your best shaves and are absent from your bad ones?

Thinking back, I suspect my breakthroughs included:
  • Using glycerine soap for my pre-shave wash
  • Smearing some in-progress lather on my beard so the stubble doesn’t dry while I’m still working on my lather
I like this idea of in-progress lather and using that as some sort of pre-shave. Overall I found my shaves with pre-shave were smoother than without, but I contribute that in part to the fact that when using a pre-shave I tend to take more time to prepare. This past week or two I have deliberately skipped the pre-shave part and used face lathering more than I usually do and I found little difference in my results. That said, I had a similar stint during the holidays when camping and I concluded then that I need to bring a pre-shave next time I go summer camping, because my skin might like a bit more hydration.
  • Spending longer on lathering and adding more water so it’s still creamy but it’s just about to start running down my neck
Based on my notes I get better results from creamy thick rich lather - not a fan personally of the runny stuff.
  • Learning to use a lighter touch with the razor
+1 million on that one. I have learned to be a butterfly when shaving. And I am still learning in that respect as well!
  • Learning that my hair growth direction isn’t what I think it is in some small areas - and sometimes the growth direction changes
Check. I made a beard map early on, shaved in accordance with my map and got really good results. I used Gillette Slides and later on Gillette Slant strokes to increase my efficiency. But knowing your growth is in my book a need to have. I did learn just earlier this month that when I take shorter strokes and do the 'standard' N-S rather than the Slide or Slanted approach I actually shave more XTG than I previously thought. Subsequently I was able to reduce my number of passes without sacrificing on results.

I plan on using short strokes (almost buffing) going forward as (for me) increases smoothness, reduces irritation beyond the point of having irritation at all, increases blade longevity and provides great predictable shaving results. Not necessarily BBS (see below), but close enough for me to feel good about myself. This, save something better.

  • Moving away from aggressive razors and learning that mild razors can be just as efficient if you are better at keeping the angle and using less pressure
  • Learning that razors which make the blade edge rigid work much better on my tougher stubble against the grain and allow me to cut better with less pressure
This is where our paths somewhat diverge. On the whole I think I actually moved towards more aggressive razors (which I then find not to be so aggressive as advertised). I even think that my most aggressive razor is the one I used this morning: the Razorine Flatboy. I could shave daily with a R41 or a Gillette Old Type with practically any blade, but the Flatboy is my learning stretch for sure, giving me stellar shaves and bad shaves (sometimes in the same shave!). Better clamping razors are indeed my favourite as well. My top razor (my collection is pale in comparison to yours) is the Timeless Ti95 SCB and I like how the blade is secured in that razor while I find it to be extremely comfortable and smooth - the Old Type (I have the thick cap) and Fatip Piccolo (I have the Mk2) do an even better job at clamping I think.

I am super curious about Wolfman WR2 razors, but find the investment beyond my current willingness. The Lambda's are high on my list as well and more within my investment margins. I am still on the fence as to how they compare to my Ti95 and if acquiring them would be a step change or step up or not (I am overly using my CPA brain cells here). In the meantime I just read your threads and those of other fine gents such as Kim's here or David's to gaze and admire all shiny and glorious razors. I get to enjoy it from the side line and be joyful for you brothers.

  • Not settling for a good enough shave, but rather demanding a certain shave result and experimenting with different things until I can reliably get the result I want without irritation. If I get a less closely shaved area or irritation somewhere, I specifically plan to do something different there next shave - I learned much faster once I determined not to accept imperfection and keep doing the same thing
YES! This week I learned that stop chasing the BBS actually results in more BBS-ends with less irritations. I am still working out which blade would be best to achieve that. KCG blades are amazing (and my first DE blades when I entered this journey), but they can be harsh on my neck at the same time.
  • Discovering the joy of witch hazel, which surely does nothing at all but has become my favourite part of the shave
Witch hazel is one of the active ingredients of Proraso Green and I like it very much. Maybe placebo indeed, but so far so good.

Cheers,

Guido.
 

Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
Color me "relieved"... I just finished shaving with the Green Cult 2.0 Level 2 with a new Nacet blade..... Whew... I confirmed to myself why I have loved the shaves with the CG 2.0.

At the moment, this seems to indicate the problem was the previous Personna Comfort Coated blade. It must have been a dud. The WTG stroke was what I was expecting.... smooth, comfortable and close. I can't say "relaxed" because I was a little apprehensive about this shave. But as I continued through the WTG pass, all the anxiety disappeared. The relaxation returned.

I used one of my SV 2.0 brushes. For me, they remain my absolute favorites. I will say... this time around, the Canada Shaving Soap didn't disappear on my face. I made sure to lather it adequately.... no bubbles, but still on the wet side, exactly how I prefer it. Since I noticed the difference in the shave with the very first down stroke, I remain convinced I had a dud Personna. It happens, they say and now, I can say the same thing.

I just ran my fingers over my face. I'm smiling.
 

Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
I hmmmm "neglected" is probably the right word to post my Tuesday shave. I used the Athena with a Nacet blade so I could compare it with the Green Cult 2.0 Level 2 is used on Sunday. I have to say, as I've mentioned in the Lambda and Athena threads, the Athena pulled me in. I meant to compare it in my mind with the GC 2.0 Level 2 and also pay attention to the razor angle but both of those faded away because I was enjoying the shave so much. It sort of flowed... as usual, smooth and comfortable.... but I had an almost mystical experience.... Shaving Zen as @Cal and @Mr. Shavington describe it. All in all, a truly wonderful shave.

Today was my normal "every other shave day" and I decided to use the Level 3 base plate I got along with my original Green Cult 2.0 order. I wasn't expecting anything different, really, because @LRod said the Level 2 and 3 were basically interchangeable for him. For me, I could tell the difference immediately with the first WTG down stroke. I could feel the blade a Lot more. Just as I was telling myself this, I ran over one of my little bumps on the first WTG over... to the left of the first area, close to my ear.... on the right side of my face. Sure enough, I nicked it..... not severely but enough so I used a dab of liquid styptic to stop it from bleeding. I lightened my touch even more than what I consider a normal light touch for me. After that, everything was fine, but I noted to myself, this is the most blade feel I've ever had. Most of you have a ton more experience than I do and know what that feels like. Previously, I've wondered in font here if I even knew what "blade feel" was and now I know. I'm neutral on the whole thing. The shave was excellent but since this was new for me, not as relaxing as normal.... but still smooth and comfortable after I made that adjustment. I didn't notice any difference when I applied the Alum.

Here's the thing. Based on face feel alone, before I check my face and whiskers and head off to sleep, the end results feel the same. If that turns out to be true, I'm not sure there is an advantage to using the Level 3 base plate. It might come in handy if I have more than 2 days in between shaves so I'll keep it around until I make that determination.

An interesting note... when I was cleaning up the GC 2.0, I noticed... if I let the faucet water hit the front of the razor head, perpendicular to the blade, the water shoots out of the sides of the head..... just like the Athena, all-be-it, in a slightly smaller stream. That brought a smile to my face. I wonder if the Level 2 plate does the same but I didn't get the water angle right. I'm looking forward to figuring that out. I know when I'm shaving, I rinse the lather off both sides of the head but I hold it at a downward angle to the water stream. I've decided to change that and always hold the razor perpendicular to the water stream and pay closer attention.

All the rest of the gear remained the same though I did use my SV 2.0 Faux Turtle Shell handle shaving brush. This one took a few more uses to break in and feel like the other 2 I purchased... and all 3 now match the first SV brush I bought from @SgtCrppls . They are still my favorite brushes.
 
Great and detailed write up Kim and very welcome. I have read other comments stating that there is not much difference between II and III except maybe for efficiency. Your description gives me some Havelte and baseline on what to do next, if anything at all. At present I am very much enjoying level II and other things about this razor. Heavy and yet not. Blade feel and yet super comfortable at present.

That brought a smile to my face. I wonder if the Level 2 plate does the same
And this made me smile! I believe the level II does too - because we had similar experiences and thoughts in our latest shave with the GC2.

Cheers,

Guido
 

Eric_75

Not made for these times.
I hmmmm "neglected" is probably the right word to post my Tuesday shave. I used the Athena with a Nacet blade so I could compare it with the Green Cult 2.0 Level 2 is used on Sunday. I have to say, as I've mentioned in the Lambda and Athena threads, the Athena pulled me in. I meant to compare it in my mind with the GC 2.0 Level 2 and also pay attention to the razor angle but both of those faded away because I was enjoying the shave so much. It sort of flowed... as usual, smooth and comfortable.... but I had an almost mystical experience.... Shaving Zen as @Cal and @Mr. Shavington describe it. All in all, a truly wonderful shave.

Today was my normal "every other shave day" and I decided to use the Level 3 base plate I got along with my original Green Cult 2.0 order. I wasn't expecting anything different, really, because @LRod said the Level 2 and 3 were basically interchangeable for him. For me, I could tell the difference immediately with the first WTG down stroke. I could feel the blade a Lot more. Just as I was telling myself this, I ran over one of my little bumps on the first WTG over... to the left of the first area, close to my ear.... on the right side of my face. Sure enough, I nicked it..... not severely but enough so I used a dab of liquid styptic to stop it from bleeding. I lightened my touch even more than what I consider a normal light touch for me. After that, everything was fine, but I noted to myself, this is the most blade feel I've ever had. Most of you have a ton more experience than I do and know what that feels like. Previously, I've wondered in font here if I even knew what "blade feel" was and now I know. I'm neutral on the whole thing. The shave was excellent but since this was new for me, not as relaxing as normal.... but still smooth and comfortable after I made that adjustment. I didn't notice any difference when I applied the Alum.

Here's the thing. Based on face feel alone, before I check my face and whiskers and head off to sleep, the end results feel the same. If that turns out to be true, I'm not sure there is an advantage to using the Level 3 base plate. It might come in handy if I have more than 2 days in between shaves so I'll keep it around until I make that determination.

An interesting note... when I was cleaning up the GC 2.0, I noticed... if I let the faucet water hit the front of the razor head, perpendicular to the blade, the water shoots out of the sides of the head..... just like the Athena, all-be-it, in a slightly smaller stream. That brought a smile to my face. I wonder if the Level 2 plate does the same but I didn't get the water angle right. I'm looking forward to figuring that out. I know when I'm shaving, I rinse the lather off both sides of the head but I hold it at a downward angle to the water stream. I've decided to change that and always hold the razor perpendicular to the water stream and pay closer attention.

All the rest of the gear remained the same though I did use my SV 2.0 Faux Turtle Shell handle shaving brush. This one took a few more uses to break in and feel like the other 2 I purchased... and all 3 now match the first SV brush I bought from @SgtCrppls . They are still my favorite brushes.
Has your 2 CD set arrived yet, Kim? :001_smile
 
I’m going to be relocating back from Poland to UK at the end of the month. We’ve had enough war now and I requested the move, which my employer has supported. I think this will be my tenth international move and, if I survive the stress one more time, hopefully my last (although perhaps when I retire we might consider resettling somewhere nice in Europe - the British are regressing into the kind of poverty-stricken and congenitally disfigured characters you read about in Dickens, I’ve noticed).

Anyway, one of the things I am looking forward to is selecting my shaveware to take for the month or so before we find a new home and receive our household goods. Kinda like the @Phoenixkh Bali sojourn (so I hope he can offer some tips). My past history with such things tends to leave me with interesting or untried stuff I wanted to take in the moment, or excess stuff that just sits in the suitcase, rather than things that I would actually use for a month in a serviced apartment and a couple of nights in a hotel. So I want to do better this time and I think I can pick things that are good to use every day. Don’t want to make it all too heavy either, or take too much suitcase space.

You guys mostly have an idea of what I have and like. But if I take a quick stab at a list now, maybe you can point out any things that would be a mistake or that I’ve forgotten. I can already see it’s too much stuff. And I can already feel I’m going to miss some things. It’s not a short business trip, though, and I do want to have some choice.

Razors: Lambda Athena, Karve Overlander, Wolfman WR2 1.55, Irving Barber Co shavette

Brushes: Blackland Signature synthetic, Wald A1 synthetic, Zenith 502 badger, Zenith 502 horse, Abbate Y La Mantia boar (I’m pretty sure it’s a Zenith too)

Soaps: La Toja stick, Antiga Barbearia de Bairro cream, Kaliflower Tjära soap, Southern Witchcrafts Necromantia soap

Blades: Kai, Personna Israeli Red, Feather Proguard

Pre-Shave: Ach Brito Glyce (new puck, and an aluminium tin)

Post-Shave: Goodfellas’ Witch Hazel with Cucumber (new bottle as received, taped for transport)

Aftershave: Acqua di Parma Colonia Tonico, Boellis Panama 1924 A/S, Dior Eau Sauvage A/S

Anciliaries: Shaving towel (might as well pack two), toiletry bag, Timeless lather bowl

Maybe I need to go minimalist. It’s hard.
 

Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
We'll be gone for 7 weeks in total, including our week trip to Slovenia to see our oldest son and his wife... 6 weeks in Bali. I don't know what I'll bring with me this time around. I sold my two Mistura brushes I took last time. I've added some very nice DE razors since that time... and one AC, the ATT X1. I will take the ESC Claymore Evo for around my nose. It would be the path of least resistance to take that one along with the X1.

As of this moment, I'll probably do that and take my two synth ESC Ultimate G4 brushes, Canada Shaving Soap, Timeless blue bowl and an assortment of AC blades. Those are all easily replaceable. I'd love to take my Athena but those are harder to come by. I still have two months to decide.
 
Top Bottom