Brush: The Holy Black Trading Co True Black Synthetic
Soap: Phoenix & Beau Whitechapel
Razor: Asylum RX SE (Feather Pro Guard blade)
It is always a risk trying a new soap when you are shaving a week’s growth. If it is a blind buy, sometimes whatever drew you to the soap can be overshadowed by horrible performance or disappointment with the scent. Other times, your excitement for a certain aspect of the soap will make you overlook mediocre performance. Every once in a while you get rewarded with something that exceeds your best expectations.
I had heard mostly positive things about Phoenix & Beau soaps, with the majority of what I read here on B&B calling the performance good if not great. There also seem to be some interesting scents. When I saw this particular scent on their Facebook page, I was instantly attracted. The marketing of the soap could definitely be seen as polarizing, similar to what many people felt about B&M’s Fougere Gothique. This is also a Halloween seasonal, and was sold out in most places. I found some at Connaught Shaving. I am a fan of Victorian gothic fiction, tales of mayhem and murder. I also have followed the story of Jack the Ripper since I read my first book on the subject 25 years ago. So, the marketing was right up my (cold, dark) alley. The scent profile is described by the artisan on their website:
“What does it smell of? Smoke, leather, sweet and dark, Whitechapel is an accord of six notes. Vetiver accommodates the profiles smokey edge, whilst sandalwood and leather reinforce its deep base with their thick richness. A hint of chocolate traces its way through the profile like a wispy London fog and jasmine and ylang-ylang provide a soft floral contrast to the profiles dark heart.”
The strength of scent is about 3/5, both in the tub and on the face. It is very leather forward, and the dark sweetness plays in and out throughout the shave. The scent does a tremendous job of evoking visions of the dark corners of London where the Ripper prowled.
I saw a video by P&B on getting the best lather from their soap, so I used some of those techniques. I bloomed the soap in cold water (they recommend warm, but I keep warm water far from my shaves) for about 10 minutes. I dumped the water, and used a dry synth brush to load for about 30 seconds. This got pasty soap throughout the bristles. I went to my ridged bowl, and began building lather. It is a thirsty soap, true to the maker’s words. I ended up using about a full tablespoon of water, and was rewarded with thick, slick, yogurty lather with a nice sheen. I know the soap could probably take even more water, but I didn’t want to push too far. I lathered up my whiskers and did a hot towel soak for 5 minutes.
As I relathered, I noted how well the lather clung to my face while still seeming wet enough that you would expect it to run off. And when I started to shave: OH WOW!
The first pass was N-S, and literally wiped all of those long whiskers away. When I got to my lower neck, where sub par soaps can lead to tugging unless I am using a fresh blade or a lot of buffing, I was able to move through with the lightest of touch and minimal buffing. This stuff is just super slick. The subsequent S-N passes and true ATG cleanup were at least as easy as with my top tier soaps. I could do some true water-only cleanup, but since I was working on such a long growth I decided to relather and not risk irritation. Boy was I not disappointed. The scent kept me engaged throughout, and when I was done with the shave, all I had left was to judge the post shave feel. The shave itself was a completely nick- and weeper-free BBS.
As with all new soaps, I used lather only, which I rubbed into my skin, as my after shave. I felt no stinging or drying as the evening progressed. Checking the feel confirmed my skin was nice and moisturized with no greasy residue. Of all my best performing soaps, this one was exactly on par with Wild West Shaving Company, and slightly above Grooming Dept and Sudsy Soapery when it comes to post shave feel. With all of those performance mark, I can easily call this a Tier 1 Box 1, super elite soap.
Soap: Phoenix & Beau Whitechapel
Razor: Asylum RX SE (Feather Pro Guard blade)
It is always a risk trying a new soap when you are shaving a week’s growth. If it is a blind buy, sometimes whatever drew you to the soap can be overshadowed by horrible performance or disappointment with the scent. Other times, your excitement for a certain aspect of the soap will make you overlook mediocre performance. Every once in a while you get rewarded with something that exceeds your best expectations.
I had heard mostly positive things about Phoenix & Beau soaps, with the majority of what I read here on B&B calling the performance good if not great. There also seem to be some interesting scents. When I saw this particular scent on their Facebook page, I was instantly attracted. The marketing of the soap could definitely be seen as polarizing, similar to what many people felt about B&M’s Fougere Gothique. This is also a Halloween seasonal, and was sold out in most places. I found some at Connaught Shaving. I am a fan of Victorian gothic fiction, tales of mayhem and murder. I also have followed the story of Jack the Ripper since I read my first book on the subject 25 years ago. So, the marketing was right up my (cold, dark) alley. The scent profile is described by the artisan on their website:
“What does it smell of? Smoke, leather, sweet and dark, Whitechapel is an accord of six notes. Vetiver accommodates the profiles smokey edge, whilst sandalwood and leather reinforce its deep base with their thick richness. A hint of chocolate traces its way through the profile like a wispy London fog and jasmine and ylang-ylang provide a soft floral contrast to the profiles dark heart.”
The strength of scent is about 3/5, both in the tub and on the face. It is very leather forward, and the dark sweetness plays in and out throughout the shave. The scent does a tremendous job of evoking visions of the dark corners of London where the Ripper prowled.
I saw a video by P&B on getting the best lather from their soap, so I used some of those techniques. I bloomed the soap in cold water (they recommend warm, but I keep warm water far from my shaves) for about 10 minutes. I dumped the water, and used a dry synth brush to load for about 30 seconds. This got pasty soap throughout the bristles. I went to my ridged bowl, and began building lather. It is a thirsty soap, true to the maker’s words. I ended up using about a full tablespoon of water, and was rewarded with thick, slick, yogurty lather with a nice sheen. I know the soap could probably take even more water, but I didn’t want to push too far. I lathered up my whiskers and did a hot towel soak for 5 minutes.
As I relathered, I noted how well the lather clung to my face while still seeming wet enough that you would expect it to run off. And when I started to shave: OH WOW!
The first pass was N-S, and literally wiped all of those long whiskers away. When I got to my lower neck, where sub par soaps can lead to tugging unless I am using a fresh blade or a lot of buffing, I was able to move through with the lightest of touch and minimal buffing. This stuff is just super slick. The subsequent S-N passes and true ATG cleanup were at least as easy as with my top tier soaps. I could do some true water-only cleanup, but since I was working on such a long growth I decided to relather and not risk irritation. Boy was I not disappointed. The scent kept me engaged throughout, and when I was done with the shave, all I had left was to judge the post shave feel. The shave itself was a completely nick- and weeper-free BBS.
As with all new soaps, I used lather only, which I rubbed into my skin, as my after shave. I felt no stinging or drying as the evening progressed. Checking the feel confirmed my skin was nice and moisturized with no greasy residue. Of all my best performing soaps, this one was exactly on par with Wild West Shaving Company, and slightly above Grooming Dept and Sudsy Soapery when it comes to post shave feel. With all of those performance mark, I can easily call this a Tier 1 Box 1, super elite soap.
