What's new

People with coarse hair, which razors under $70 do you like best?

Ι have a coarse, thick beard and i like aggressive razors and Sharp blades. My personal choise is the Merkur Futur! First Pass at #6, and then #5 and #4 for the Last and always BBS!
You inspired me last night to try a more aggressive shave. 3rd use of my feather blade. All 3 passes at #3. I had about a week of growth. Pass 1 as usual was smooth but left some hair. Pass 2 as usual gave me DFS. Pass 3 I tried to go against the grain on one cheek and as soon as the bloodletting started (immediately), I threw in the towel. I think I'll have to try again in a few days at setting 2 or 1 on pass 3.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
The only issue I have is with blade alignment. Most of the time the blade lines up ok but you have to be careful and check it.

All razors with alignment pins like the Gillette Old Type, Fatip and Merkur 34C may need to have the blade aligned. Thats why DE blades have tabs on the sides.

Theres an easy way to do it that works for many of us. When you load a blade break the razor down and put the cap on something soft. Drop the blade on the cap and then gently place the base on top. With two fingertips hold the alignment pins so it doesnt move and gently screw the handle on until snug, then pick the razor up and check the blade alignment.

When I load my Grande like that 8 out of 10 times the blade is aligned perfectly and no adjustment is necessary.

Pass 1 as usual was smooth but left some hair. Pass 2 as usual gave me DFS. Pass 3 I tried to go against the grain on one cheek and as soon as the bloodletting started (immediately), I threw in the towel.

That sounds like exactly the effect from a blade thats not held rigidly enough. If a razor lacks a rigid enough blade, when enough stress is met by the edge the blade can flex. When the blade flexes it can cause, at best, irritation. At worst, what you describe above.

Theres much to read around the forum on rigidity. This is an informative thread: Charcoal Goods - Is it a "rigid blade" design?

If you'd like to try an inexpensive razor that is a rigid design try one of these.

RazoRock Teck II Safety Razor – ItalianBarber

They're pretty popular around the forum. I think you'll be really surprised by how much difference a more rigid design can make. You might even find yourself shaving ATG without any issue at all, and sooner too.
 
You inspired me last night to try a more aggressive shave. 3rd use of my feather blade. All 3 passes at #3. I had about a week of growth. Pass 1 as usual was smooth but left some hair. Pass 2 as usual gave me DFS. Pass 3 I tried to go against the grain on one cheek and as soon as the bloodletting started (immediately), I threw in the towel. I think I'll have to try again in a few days at setting 2 or 1 on pass 3.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

If you have a thick stubble try first Pass higher than #3, try it at #4 (you can go higher if you trust your experience - technique) to knock your stubble down and then take it down as much as you want... Good luck...
 
Theres an easy way to do it that works for many of us. When you load a blade break the razor down and put the cap on something soft. Drop the blade on the cap and then gently place the base on top. With two fingertips hold the alignment pins so it doesnt move and gently screw the handle on until snug, then pick the razor up and check the blade alignment.

I use this method and most of the time it looks ok. But with the reflective nature of the razor it can be deceiving. I'm currently working through a sample pack and getting a lot of disparity between two of the same blades. I now check and manually adjust the blade accordingly by adding another visual reference (plastic card). What sometimes looks good is often a little out. If I was removing the blade after every shave, I wouldn't be using the FaTip.

If Fatip sold an OC razor with some alignment tabs, I would gladly pay double. Its a great little razor at a great price and for the moment I am alright with having to spend a few moments aligning the blade. As you say its just something that you have to put up with with alignment pins.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
I use this method and most of the time it looks ok. But with the reflective nature of the razor it can be deceiving. I'm currently working through a sample pack and getting a lot of disparity between two of the same blades. I now check and manually adjust the blade accordingly by adding another visual reference (plastic card). What sometimes looks good is often a little out. If I was removing the blade after every shave, I wouldn't be using the FaTip.

If Fatip sold an OC razor with some alignment tabs, I would gladly pay double. Its a great little razor at a great price and for the moment I am alright with having to spend a few moments aligning the blade. As you say its just something that you have to put up with with alignment pins.

Fatip razors are individuals, as most handmade things are. Mine, for example, doesnt like Bolzano blades. The spacing and size of the alignment pin holes in Bolzano blades are a bit small and a bit far apart to fit over my pins as easily as other blades. That can pose a problem.

IMG_2201.jpg


When I tighten the handle on mine with a Bolzano blade loaded, I can hear the blade 'ping' as it pops into the bevels at the base of the pins. If I was to try and adjust it before it popped into those bevels it wont even move because the blade itself is so tight against the pins. Once it is properly seated its a non issue.

I think Kai blades were also a bit snug but I think it was the reverse. The alignment holes in Kai blades were a tiny bit to close together causing them to fit tightly.

I've seen a picture of a Fatip cap that had solder slag around those bevels and on that particular razor the blade couldnt be seated properly. Once it was removed it was fine.

This is mine as far out of alignment as I can make it.

IMG_2059.JPG


Maybe 5 seconds later.

IMG_2060.JPG


I flip blades before every shave no matter the razor I'm using.

NickShaves on YouTube uses, or least use to use, a Merkur 34C. Virtually every time he loads a blade he also checks and adjusts if he thinks it necessary.

Its a razor alignment design that goes back well over 100 years and it still works. There are certainly better systems though. The Gillette NEW series of razors have one of the best alignment designs there are.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
I have a GameChanger OC on the way so I’ll post my review after I have used it a few times.

If I was still using DE's as my main razors I might very well own one. I'm curious to hear what you'll think of it.
 
That's worth considering then. Out of curiosity, do you use more than one setting on the 6S? Another fear I have is paying for another adjustable only to use setting 6 and ignore all others.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I use 5 and 6 (same plate). I really don't mind the other plates sitting around because Rockwell could have sold the razor with just one setting and sold the remaining plates for extra money, like what Karve does.

It took me 3 plate purchases to get my ideal Karve setting so that's nearly equal to a whole Karve razor!

Rockwell are giving all settings in one price, that's a damn good deal so I wouldn't consider any spare plate a waste, but rather grateful that I didn't have to buy extra plates to find my ideal setting.
 
I have a very course beard and my favorite combo is Rockwell 6s on the 4 plate with a feather. So smooth and efficient. It’s worth the extra $$ in my opinion. I do love my Ming Shi though which I got for like nothing.
 
Fatip razors are individuals

Indeed they are. Got some Bolzano's in my trial pack, seems like its going to be interesting. I have a new method of double checking the alignment so I am hopefully going to get more consistent shaves with the same blade type.
 
Consider the Fatip open comb (Piccolo or Grande version) for a good all brass razor; it has a lot of blade exposure and gives a great shave. It is the blade that does the cutting so try a GSB or Astra SP in the razor.

Fatip piccolo is my go to razor if I haven't shaved for a few days.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
I have a coarse beard too.
I enjoy my R41 (2013 Version),
Parker Variant (high settings) and Merkur Futur.
For less than 48 hours growth i like my Parker 97R too!
 
A vintage option I like which is well under $70 are the Schick injector SE razors.

Most injectors are around $20 with shipping as long as you stay away from expensively worded listings or collector items. The only common ones that run upwards of high $30 range up into the $50 range are the adjustable razors but they are also a good starting point for injectors.

If you can handle an E2 with the moveable spring, it is one of the few few injectors that can load a blade by hand without an injector key then you can handle any injector razor vintage or modern on the market right now.

If you can't get a BBS shave with the coarsest of hair with that razor then the problem is you as long as the razor is mechanically fine. You may not like how the razor shaves but it won't be an issue of if the razor can perform to a BBS level or not with sufficient skill.
 
Last edited:
I currently have (and use) two of the razors you are considering: the Fatip OC and the Game Changer OC. The Fatip wins hands down on value for money, but it does have a couple of drawbacks. Alignment is the most obvious. I don't mind spending a few seconds visually inspecting and manually aligning the blade, but I am not one who disassembles the razor between shaves - so it's a once/week task if I use the Fatip every day. The other curious thing about the Fatip is the variety in cap widths. The so-called Mk I was nominally 18 mm wide, and the Mk II 19 mm. I had a Mk I and an early edition Mk II. Both were too aggressive for me. I see another post in the Forum where someone measured a Mk II cap at 19.32 mm. The one I have now is around 19.6 mm. Maybe I should call it a Mk II.5?

With the 19.6 mm cap, the Fatip performs nearly identically to the Game Changer OC. The GC aligns perfectly with no fuss at all, but it loads awkwardly in that you need to place the blade on the base plate instead of on the cap. It doesn't sound like it should make any difference, but I find it requires more concentration to make sure you don't cut yourself or drop something.

Another (inexpensive) option you might want to try is the single edge RazoRock Hawk. It takes Artist Club style blades (I recommend Schick Proline) and produces results comparable to the Fatip OC and Game Change OC. At $30 or so, it's not much of a gamble to give it a try. Be advised that it is an aluminum razor, and if you've never used one you will be surprised at how light it is.
 
I'll also recommend the RazoRock GameChanger Open Comb. Also, a variant not he Fatip, the Schone Open Comb, made by Fatip. In addition, I really love my vintage Gillette New Deluxe. I find it smoother than the NEW or the New Improved. Also, a vintage Gillette Old Type, either the ball end or a single ring, would do nicely.
 
Blade choice is equally important, especially if going ATG. Fatip is nice if you can get along with the alignment or a vintage OC Gillette.
 
I've really come to appreciate Global Shave Club's Tribute R41+ razor. It's like $35 shipped, is less aggressive that the actual R41 and paired with a good blade (e.g. Astra Superior Stainless), it mows down my steel wool stubble with little trouble and really good efficiency.

Good luck and let us know where you land.
 
For a coarse beard, I found the GC .84p just a little too mild. I recently upgraded to the OC and am very surprised and pleased so far. I got just enough boost in efficiency and actually get a little less irritation because I require fewer strokes. I'm able to get a BBS shave relatively easily with the OC and I think its a really nice value.
 
Top Bottom