Particular Type of Razor (slant, aggressive? and Blade for Tough Whiskers?

[Jerome10]

I've got 3 razors at the moment, and I am struggling a bit to get the optimal shave out of them. R89 Muehle. 39c Slant. Fatip Grande.

The R89 takes 3 passes + touch up, minimal, to have a shot at BBS. Usually just a DFS. But this thing never draws blood, even ATG in the moustache.

39C seems to cut through the beard more easily than the other 2, but I find I struggle to maneuver under my nose, around my ears, on my jawline etc with it. It seems "picky", and will bite if not careful. I also struggle to go ATG in the moustache area. Often leads to some nicks. Good shave in fewer passes, but the end result is about the same as the R89

The Fatip I can get excellent shaves, closest and fastest. But I will often end up with razor burn and nicks in the moustache ATG or along the jaw line. Sometimes bumps on the neck.

So where I'm going with this, is is there a "best" type of razor (and the blade) for thick whiskers? I do not have a manly beard, it comes in thin on the cheeks, but most heavy in the chin-to-neck area, and the moustache. But the beard I think is very very tough. I can pop on a brand new feather in the razors and I still feel I get tugging in these thick areas.

Is there any consensus on the best combo for these type of tough whiskers? Should I be going aggressive razor with a more comfortable blade? Mild razor with a feather? The slant glides through the thick whiskers with the least pull but doesn't end as close as the Fatip and I can't get in the tough spots.

As mentioned in another thread, I'm looking to buy a nice, high end razor (ATT, Ikon or similar) and I am beyond stuck. H2 due to aggressiveness (but end up with same problems as Fatip)? The new ATT slant (or will I have the same trouble in the tough spots as Merkur). Perhaps an Ikon open comb that is mild (but then end up without the closest shave). Or should I settle in the middle somewhere with say, an ATT R2 (or will that put me in no-man's-land...not the closest shave but still getting razor burn).

Is there any sort of guideline in this world that might say with tough whiskers, normal skin, daily shaving.... you would be best served by XXX Razor with YYY blade sharpness?

 

[xxvaleria]

Have you tried an Injector razor? A Schick Type G is a wonderful razor, about midway in the aggression scale, and if you want more or less aggression, there are many other Schick models. The Chinese Schick blade is a very good blade and compares favorably with the best of the DE blades. The nice thing about an Injector razor is it can handle any kind of beard, but is maneuverable enough to easily get into those tough and tricky places. They are also very intuitive, forgiving, and user-friendly.

 

[admvalentine]

I don't own a slant, but i would like to, they appear to me to be a different animal. They are far more aggressive. Have you thought about just an adjustable.

 

[mblakele]

In your shoes I would try a slant. The design is supposed to reduce the amount of force needed to cut, and if you get tugging with Feathers then that may be exactly what you need. You can also get a similar effect with the Gillette Slide, but that technique is tricky to use on the chin or mustache.

Another approach would be to try a NEW. That should give you a similar experience to the Fatip, but a little gentler and so you might about the problems you have with the Fatip.

Have you tried any of the well-regarded Russian Gillette blades, such as the Polsilver or the 7 O'Clock Yellow? If they give you less irritation than Feathers that might help solve the problem.

Finally it is always worth revisiting your prep and technique. More prep may reduce irritation and make it easier to cut those whiskers. A lower blade angle might cut more effectively, and any irritation may be a sign that you are applying a little inadvertent pressure.

 

[Squirrel]

i have 3 razors I use currently; Fatip Piccolo, Merkur 34C, and New SC. As my technique has improved I can get clost to BBS with any of them. I always do a good prep, shower, pre-shave soap, etc. The Fatip is the most efficient, the New SC is very consistant, and the 34C is just a pleasure to use. I do have some tough areas along the jaw line and chin but for me I know now it all came down to experience. I guess what I am saying is there are razors that work better for some people and not so good for others.

Have you tried just using one razor for weeks at a time? Sometimes it helps to just master one thing and then move on to the next. I know this is what worked for me. I can now get a DFS/BBS shave with any of my equipment. It just took somd time.

 

[alfredus]

As has been said many times: most men think they have tough whiskers - but very few actually do.

Maybe you should at first concentrate on your prep? Wash your face twice with a glycerine based soap. If it works for you, shave only after a shower - but if your skin is too sensitive and puffs up (like mine), use some hot towels and lather/conditioner etc. to really hydrate your whiskers.

If you are certain, you have mapped your beard-grow correctly, maybe you need an in-between pass (before the ATG) at half way between XTG and ATG, especially for your problem/sensitive area (moustache etc.) - I do need it.

If you can get a BBS with the R89 - stick with it until you can get constant BBS shaves. Maybe play a bit around with blades, but not too much. There are some very highly regarded blades here - and I would choose maybe 5 of those - try 2 of each for 2 shaves each - and then stick with one blade and one razor, until you get constant great shaves.

Changing your hardware too much, without being sure of your technique is not a good idea - I don't know how long you have been shaving, but IMO 3 razors are way too much for the beginning. If you need change, maybe try different soaps or brushes - but again only if you can get constantly great lather out of your current setup.

Hope this helps and enjoy the journey!