For those who've used the Variant, can you torque the cap even just slightly when it's screwed in? Or is it perfectly tight? Mine moves just slightly and wondering if that's normal? Seems like there's been a few of QC issues with them, so just wondering. Can I say that I notice it when shaving? Probably not but you know how these things get in your head once you notice them.
Parker Variant Question
- Thread starter lafrancis
- Start date
This is how it looks disassembled. Someone else thought just like you did, didn't know any better and ruined the spring steel tension adjuster. I took mine apart to guide him in trying to repair it. Didn't work. Do you want to find out? Be my guest, but you've been warned.....
See the blue pen cover pointing at the clip in the 2nd pic? That's the spring steel tension adjuster. Over tighten that, there goes your $57. Right down the drain.....
See the blue pen cover pointing at the clip in the 2nd pic? That's the spring steel tension adjuster. Over tighten that, there goes your $57. Right down the drain.....
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for taking the time to post your pics. I probably didn't describe what I'm referring to very well. My question referred to when the blade has been loaded properly. If you hold the cap at the short ends (obviously not the long blade sides), can you twist the head (and by default the blade)? There is a slight play in mine and I'm wondering if this it typical. Maybe that's what you were referring to in that someone else tried to over tighten in an attempt to eliminate this play. If that's the case, it sounds like I'm not the only one who's noticed it.
Last edited:
I have a black handle Variant and have had no issues with play. Only defect with mine is the paint coming off the handle which is how I purchased it from its previous owner. Others with the black handle have reported the same with their's.
Huh? That split retainer ring your Bic cap points to is merely there to hold the adjuster in the barrel. On a Progress, some guys don't even use it (me included), it's not really even needed except to keep the adjustment assembly from slipping out when changing a blade.
Right. But if that clip sits on either side of the shoulder and not in the recess of that shaft, it can throw the dial setting off. The problem is more with the spring that sits underneath the tension plate which is either not set correctly or damaged. Either or both, it still can cause an alignment issue.
Not to hijack the thread, I didn't want to start a new one but does anyone know how "1" or "2" on the Variant compare to a Slim's lowest setting? Sometimes I shave in the morning for work and at night before a dinner out and will use my Slim on the lowest setting to avoid razor burn.
I just stumbled on this thread. I have a Merkur Progress and the spring clip simply holds the assembly in place. I routinely take mine apart after a shave to dry things off.
So, you're saying that the Parker Variant has the same clip. But it's crucial that it needs to stay in the shaft recess. Thank you for this. If I ever buy a Variant, I'll now know how to make sure I'm re-assembling correctly after dis-assembling for a cleaning/drying.
So, you're saying that the Parker Variant has the same clip. But it's crucial that it needs to stay in the shaft recess. Thank you for this. If I ever buy a Variant, I'll now know how to make sure I'm re-assembling correctly after dis-assembling for a cleaning/drying.
I also have a progress and have that clip permanently removed for cleaning and drying purposes. If this is an issue with the Parker then it could be a deal breaker. The Variant seems Cooncat inspired which I like. Bob was also the first to go brass.
I haven't received my variant yet but if i move the head on my Progress (all 3 of them), it does move slightly but only in one direction.
I just stumbled on this thread. I have a Merkur Progress and the spring clip simply holds the assembly in place. I routinely take mine apart after a shave to dry things off.
So, you're saying that the Parker Variant has the same clip. But it's crucial that it needs to stay in the shaft recess. Thank you for this. If I ever buy a Variant, I'll now know how to make sure I'm re-assembling correctly after dis-assembling for a cleaning/drying.
Let me clarify my particular situation with the Variant. When I purchased the razor, the alignment setting was all off. Also, the dial movement wasn't very smooth. When I disassembled the Variant, I noticed that the clip was not in the recess, but rather on the bottom of the shoulder dial, just above where you see the #'s dial in the 2nd photo. Once I placed the spring clip back in the recess, my alignment issues were solved. I never stated that the clip wasn't necessary for the Parker Variant to work properly. If there are those that remove the clip just as has been stated for the Progress, and there are no ill effects, that's on those individuals, and them alone. If it works fine, it works. I have not removed mine so I can't give an answer if the razor does or does not work properly in regards to it's dial settings. Just trying to be clear on my own specific reason for why I disassembled the razor...... Cheers Gents.
So, like the progress, you just pull the knob out? But make sure the spring clip stay in the recess when reassembling?
All my merkur 2 piece have Themis and easy to pull but I'm reading the parker isn't as easy.
Can anyone confirm?
All my merkur 2 piece have Themis and easy to pull but I'm reading the parker isn't as easy.
Can anyone confirm?
A couple people have mentioned taking the razor apart for cleaning and drying purposes. Is that really necessary? Does the manufacturer really expect users to disassemble the razor? I’m guessing some people are perhaps a bit more meticulous in cleaning.
Yes most people are. I'm sure none of the people that designed the progress intended for it to be taken apart. However back in the 50s when it was released, I'm not sure what was known about zamak. So people now want to take special care of zamak because once the plating fails it's done. It's not like the Gillette brass based razors. Those can wear through or fail and still be used for years. I have an old type thats through the plating on the head, mostly through the copper base and down to brass.
If the plating fails on these, including the head of the variant, which is zamak besides the threads of the top cap, then the razor is garbage in a matter of a year of use, not to mention uncomfortable shaves as the zamak deteriorates but not all at the same rate leaving a rough surface.
I've never had a parker but I have a progress and take it apart every time I shave with it to clean it which is quite regular. I still have the clip in mine its a bit fiddley to put back together again but nothing major
Supposedly it's harder with the parker. Mine is en route. We will see lol
Similar threads
