Hello, I have a new Ozuku, and I am wondering if the Ozuku users in this forum glue it to a piece of hardwood, and if yes, why is that useful? In the same way, is it also useful to apply urethane to the sides of the stone? Thanks in advance. 
Ozuku preparation
- Thread starter 2dutch4u
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If it's really thin and long maybe a backing of wood would be nice for support, if it is not excessively so, just seal the sides and bottom with the sealant of your preference.
If it wobbles on the table as you hone, mounting it to a block of wood can help, or just put a towel under it. And if it is thin and likely to break if dropped, the wood can help protect it. Otherwise, no need for a wood base - you mostly see wooden bases on knife and woodworking hones.
You should seal the sides and/or the bottom with laquer, shellac, fingernail polish, etc. This keeps water from seeping between the sedimentary layers and possibly causing the stone to crumble. Sealing the bottom is optional - if it has a unique appearance, I'd leave it alone.
You should seal the sides and/or the bottom with laquer, shellac, fingernail polish, etc. This keeps water from seeping between the sedimentary layers and possibly causing the stone to crumble. Sealing the bottom is optional - if it has a unique appearance, I'd leave it alone.
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Thanks for the advice everyone!
As mentioned, sealing will not hurt and it will help to hold a fragile hone together some.
I personally have never understood why anyone would mount a stone to a piece of wood. Wood moves at a different rate than stone so eventually your stone will crack, however, being as it is firmly attached to the wood it will still be pretty usable although if the crack becomes large it will hold stray abrasive and cause problems that way.
If you are set on mounting to a wood block I would suggest epoxying it in place down the center of the wood block only. Do not epoxy the entire surface. This will minimize expansion and contraction from the wood but still make for a stable secure environment.
I personally have never understood why anyone would mount a stone to a piece of wood. Wood moves at a different rate than stone so eventually your stone will crack, however, being as it is firmly attached to the wood it will still be pretty usable although if the crack becomes large it will hold stray abrasive and cause problems that way.
If you are set on mounting to a wood block I would suggest epoxying it in place down the center of the wood block only. Do not epoxy the entire surface. This will minimize expansion and contraction from the wood but still make for a stable secure environment.
Bench cookies (top) and/or a generic stone holder do well with an Ozuku. Works well with mine.
I removed a jnat from an old piece of wood. Wood was rotting anyway. If you hone in your hand, and its thick enough to use comfortably then no need. If you hone in a holder, a spacer like a towel to make level works well.
I have a thick chunk of rubber i use as a stand. Toss a rag over it and make thicker on one side. Works fine for me. And i dont have to worry about the wood changing shape from swelling or the wood rotting any more. Mine was mounted on cedar. Guess this was a better wood for water. But no wood is even better. To each there own!
I have a thick chunk of rubber i use as a stand. Toss a rag over it and make thicker on one side. Works fine for me. And i dont have to worry about the wood changing shape from swelling or the wood rotting any more. Mine was mounted on cedar. Guess this was a better wood for water. But no wood is even better. To each there own!
Dutch
I suggest that if you do mount the stone, that you use a type of Balsa or Magnolia or some other wood that does not have a strongly defined grain pattern, and seal the wood too. When wood moves it moves and expands in the radial direction, not the length as the cells hydrate they get fatter not longer. If the stone has any inclusions or is at risk, with highly grained wood any expansion can split the stone.
Silicon caulking is just fine and you don't need to cover the whole bottom of the stone, just an X pattern and a few dots here and there. If you ever want to detach the stone the silicon will release more easily than some form of epoxy, and you will have less chance of delamanting the stone. You probably don't need to sculpt out feet on the bottom.
Alex
I suggest that if you do mount the stone, that you use a type of Balsa or Magnolia or some other wood that does not have a strongly defined grain pattern, and seal the wood too. When wood moves it moves and expands in the radial direction, not the length as the cells hydrate they get fatter not longer. If the stone has any inclusions or is at risk, with highly grained wood any expansion can split the stone.
Silicon caulking is just fine and you don't need to cover the whole bottom of the stone, just an X pattern and a few dots here and there. If you ever want to detach the stone the silicon will release more easily than some form of epoxy, and you will have less chance of delamanting the stone. You probably don't need to sculpt out feet on the bottom.
Alex
Steve56
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Ah, that explains the orientation of the grain on the stands. Thanks Alex!
I watched a video of a man showing some of his stones in boxes. Each or most had end grain blocks mounted at each end of the stone, continuing the surface by about two inches total (1” each end grain block). This allows full or nearer to full use of the stone length without worry of damage from running off the edge. I will employ that when I make boxes. I hadn’t yet seen it written about here at the forum, so thought I’d share it.
The bench dogs was another tip I’d seen in a Dr. Matt video, so seconding that idea.
The bench dogs was another tip I’d seen in a Dr. Matt video, so seconding that idea.
That is fine for knives and things, but not sure that is so useful for razors. You wouldn't want to start any strokes with your razor off of the stone and not be dead flat (like starting on the wood) and you don't want to carry the razor edge off the stone onto wood either. It wouldn't do anything for you with X strokes with that either I wouldn't think.
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