What's new

Our 5th, 10 Round Bullseye Session Starts on 5/1/2023 - New Shooters Are Welcome!

New shooters are welcome. All the information you need along with targets are below.

Post the scores for each of the ten three-target rounds to this thread before Sunday afternoon on August 12th. You may post your scores at any time. If you have a less than happy day at the range... Don't post that score. You have 20 weeks to post 10 rounds. I will update the score sheet as rounds are posted. If all participants finish their 10 rounds before August 12th we will start the next session early. Once a round is posted it sticks. Each round's targets are shot in succession. Cherry picking the best three targets from a day's, week's, or month's shooting is not permitted. :pipe:

Please read the attachments. Answers to most questions are answered there. Or, post your question in this forum. This is a .22 Bullseye League. If you want to shoot center fire you may. Please let me know if you are shooting center fire and I'll note that in the scoring form. (Larger diameter bullets are score enhancers.) Semi-autos and revolvers may be used. Again, targets must be shot in sequence, one after another, in one shooting session. Slow, Timed and Rapid... If you aren't happy with a target you may stop at that point and start over with the slow target.

If you are shooting with a revolver... Don't worry about overrunning time on the rapid fire target. We aren't going to sweat a few extra seconds.

Post questions to this thread. We're happy to offer advice. We're also happy enablers!

These attachments contain the rules, details, and targets!
 

Attachments

  • The B&B Bullseye League Basics.pdf
    54.5 KB · Views: 13
  • Introduction to the B&B Bullseye League.pdf
    58.5 KB · Views: 11
  • Bullseye Scoring Form.pdf
    50.3 KB · Views: 5
  • B2 and B3 Pistol Targets-50 foot.pdf
    41.8 KB · Views: 7

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
@OkieStubble , did you ever resolve your Buckmark issues? When are you going to come out and play with us?

Since getting it back from Browning, I have only taken it out once with the grandson to plink around at stuff, but it seemed to hold up well. I don’t know how many rounds we shot, but there was no malfunctions.

I will clean it up and get the Vortex put back on top and sighted in. Hopefully I can post my first scores before the end of this week.

I will make good use of my range time while there and shoot several weeks in advance and then post them each week until I’m back at the range again.

This new format should help me post scores more consistently each week.
 

BigFoot

I wanna be sedated!
Staff member
Since getting it back from Browning, I have only taken it out once with the grandson to plink around at stuff, but it seemed to hold up well. I don’t know how many rounds we shot, but there was no malfunctions.

I will clean it up and get the Vortex put back on top and sighted in. Hopefully I can post my first scores before the end of this week.

I will make good use of my range time while there and shoot several weeks in advance and then post them each week until I’m back at the range again.

This new format should help me post scores more consistently each week.
Looking forward to your scores.
 

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
I finally got fed up with my Browning Buckmark. Before I sent it back to Browning to have it's reliability issues looked at, I needed to take off the aftermarket top tactical rail and put back on it's OEM rail in order to have Browning look at it under their warranty. Well, when I went to change the rail back, the top receiver screws wouldn't come out. In fact I shaved off several sets of allen wrenches trying to get them out, but they were frozen tight. I had a drop of blue locktight on the screws as the aftermarket rail directions specified, because they instructed not to use the star lock washers that came with Browning's OEM rail.

Usually, the blue locktight is easily broken with a bit of pressure. So I had to spend $75 to get a gunsmith to get them out, and put in new screws I got from Browning before I could even send it back to browning to have it's reliability issues looked at. Got the screws out and replaced and sent it back to Browning.

Browning had it about 8 weeks and sent it back. Took it the range with the Grandson and put it thru it's paces. It seemed to be more reliable then when I sent it back, I thought, finally, I can get the red dot back on top and be ready for the next session.

However, when I went to clean it a few days back to get it ready for the new Bullseye Session, I couldn't get the barrel off for cleaning? The Buckmark has a bigger allen type bolt recessed into the front of the pistol's frame just under the barrel. It would not come out! It was also frozen in place! However, I have never used locktight and always use a torq wrench when replacing the barrel mounting screw between about 15-20#'s from research reading Browning forums.

I called Browning yesterday and advised them of this issue and they said they use red loctite on all barrel mounting screws at the factory? I said; "red Locktite!" Why would you use the hardest color of Locktite to break? I advised them I had already grinded off three allen wrenches and an allen wrench bit with drill, trying to get it to break without the slightest budge, it is frozen tight! Their customer service Reps, who are not friendly at all, advised me I could send it back to them again.

I told them I had this same problem with the OEM top screws a few months back and took it to a local gunsmith to get them out. Browning CS only stated that they cannot advise me to take it to a gunsmith only to send it back to them. I began thinking to myself; " They had it for 2 months last time and I am not missing this new Bullseye session!" Then I thought; "you know what? When I was having trouble with my wife's LCP Max, Ruger customer service treated me like a King!

So being frustrated, I cleaned the Buckmark and Barrel with an Otis pull string since the barrel nut was frozen, immediately boxed it up and took it to the LGS and put it on consignment. While there, I perused their various models of Ruger, MKIV's Target MKIV's and several MKIV 'Lites'. The Target models with longer bull barrels, and Luger style angled grip seemed a bit front heavy for my tastes, as it uses the barrel weight to manage muzzle rise to help with accuracy. The MKIV Lites, are very light with a skeletonized front frame over a thin barrel. Their designed to be a bit shorter, but they have a threaded barrel which can sport a front muzzle compensator to manage muzzle rise instead of a heavy bull barrel.

I chose instead, the Ruger MKIV 'Tactical' model. After comparing all of the various Ruger MKIV models against one another, my reasons for choosing the tactical version are these.

1. It has the same look, frame, feel and all steel weight as the longer bull barrel versions.

2. While it is a shorter barrel, the barrel is still a bull barrel.

3. However, it has a threaded barrel for a compensator, just as the 'Lite' models do.

4. After a bit of research, I learned Ruger's MKIV target grip with it's Luger angled shape makes a much better grip angle for one handed target shooting than their 22-45 models with a more standard 1911 type grip angle. Might not matter for a two hand hold, but most Ruger or .22 competition forums I researched, suggested the target model grip for one handed target shooting.

5. So it seemed to me that the Tactical model was an excellent middle place, between a full length target version or the lighter versions which use a compensator. Since the Tactical model has a full length top rail, I can move the red dot forward or backward on the rail to balance out or shift more weight aft or forward. Once I add a compensator to the front, it will make it as long as the target model and will help reduce muzzle rise and possibly add a bit more forward weight.

6. Being a tactical model, it has a pretty long picatinney rail underneath the barrel for a mounted tac-lite. While I think this is funny for a .22 pistol, when it comes to adjusting weight, If I needed more weight for handling balance or competing, I can always add a small light if I wanted more weight up front. :) I also like the fact, I can take the bottom light rail completely off for a more classic and streamlined look and appearance.

7. The MKIV's newer design which was designed to make field stripping and cleaning much easier then earlier III and II versions, should be much more enjoyable to maintain than the Browning Buckmark. At least for me. :)

IMG_1207.jpeg


IMG_1208.jpeg
 
Last edited:

nortac

"Can't Raise an Eyebrow"
Mediocre start to Session 5
239-1X
Slow fire 77
Timed fire 75-1X, -1M
Rapid fire 87
 

BigFoot

I wanna be sedated!
Staff member
I finally got fed up with my Browning Buckmark. Before I sent it back to Browning to have it's reliability issues looked at, I needed to take off the aftermarket top tactical rail and put back on it's OEM rail in order to have Browning look at it under their warranty. Well, when I went to change the rail back, the top receiver screws wouldn't come out. In fact I shaved off several sets of allen wrenches trying to get them out, but they were frozen tight. I had a drop of blue locktight on the screws as the aftermarket rail directions specified, because they instructed not to use the star lock washers that came with Browning's OEM rail.

Usually, the blue locktight is easily broken with a bit of pressure. So I had to spend $75 to get a gunsmith to get them out, and put in new screws I got from Browning before I could even send it back to browning to have it's reliability issues looked at. Got the screws out and replaced and sent it back to Browning.

Browning had it about 8 weeks and sent it back. Took it the range with the Grandson and put it thru it's paces. It seemed to be more reliable then when I sent it back, I thought, finally, I can get the red dot back on top and be ready for the next session.

However, when I went to clean it a few days back to get it ready for the new Bullseye Session, I couldn't get the barrel off for cleaning? The Buckmark has a bigger allen type bolt recessed into the front of the pistol's frame just under the barrel. It would not come out! It was also frozen in place! However, I have never used locktight and always use a torq wrench when replacing the barrel mounting screw between about 15-20#'s from research reading Browning forums.

I called Browning yesterday and advised them of this issue and they said they use red loctite on all barrel mounting screws at the factory? I said; "red Locktite!" Why would you use the hardest color of Locktite to break? I advised them I had already grinded off three allen wrenches and an allen wrench bit with drill, trying to get it to break without the slightest budge, it is frozen tight! Their customer service Reps, who are not friendly at all, advised me I could send it back to them again.

I told them I had this same problem with the OEM top screws a few months back and took it to a local gunsmith to get them out. Browning CS only stated that they cannot advise me to take it to a gunsmith only to send it back to them. I began thinking to myself; " They had it for 2 months last time and I am not missing this new Bullseye session!" Then I thought; "you know what? When I was having trouble with my wife's LCP Max, Ruger customer service treated me like a King!

So being frustrated, I cleaned the Buckmark and Barrel with an Otis pull string since the barrel nut was frozen, immediately boxed it up and took it to the LGS and put it on consignment. While there, I perused their various models of Ruger, MKIV's Target MKIV's and several MKIV 'Lites'. The Target models with longer bull barrels, and Luger style angled grip seemed a bit front heavy for my tastes, as it uses the barrel weight to manage muzzle rise to help with accuracy. The MKIV Lites, are very light with a skeletonized front frame over a thin barrel. Their designed to be a bit shorter, but they have a threaded barrel which can sport a front muzzle compensator to manage muzzle rise instead of a heavy bull barrel.

I chose instead, the Ruger MKIV 'Tactical' model. After comparing all of the various Ruger MKIV models against one another, my reasons for choosing the tactical version are these.

1. It has the same look, frame, feel and all steel weight as the longer bull barrel versions.

2. While it is a shorter barrel, the barrel is still a bull barrel.

3. However, it has a threaded barrel for a compensator, just as the 'Lite' models do.

4. After a bit of research, I learned Ruger's MKIV target grip with it's Luger angled shape makes a much better grip angle for one handed target shooting than their 22-45 models with a more standard 1911 type grip angle. Might not matter for a two hand hold, but most Ruger or .22 competition forums I researched, suggested the target model grip for one handed target shooting.

5. So it seemed to me that the Tactical model was an excellent middle place, between a full length target version or the lighter versions which use a compensator. Since the Tactical model has a full length top rail, I can move the red dot forward or backward on the rail to balance out or shift more weight aft or forward. Once I add a compensator to the front, it will make it as long as the target model and will help reduce muzzle rise and possibly add a bit more forward weight.

6. Being a tactical model, it has a pretty long picatinney rail underneath the barrel for a mounted tac-lite. While I think this is funny for a .22 pistol, when it comes to adjusting weight, If I needed more weight for handling balance or competing, I can always add a small light if I wanted more weight up front. :) I also like the fact, I can take the bottom light rail completely off for a more classic and streamlined look and appearance.

7. The MKIV's newer design which was designed to make field stripping and cleaning much easier then earlier III and II versions, should be much more enjoyable to maintain than the Browning Buckmark. At least for me. :)

View attachment 1653544

View attachment 1653545
That is the same Ruger I have. You will love it.
 
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