Introduction
With enough experience, traditional shavers become used to "dialing in" shaving soaps and creams, but this experience is never truly expressed quantitatively. Mass measurements can help the individual quantify the optimum lather composition of soap/cream and water that works best for him for each particular soap/cream. The optimum lather for each particular soap/cream can then be easily and consistently reproduced for better shaves. Further, optimum lathers can then be compared to one another so as to fairly rank soaps and creams and possibly discern patterns regarding favorable and irritating ingredients. Optimum lathers for one person may not be identical to those for another person. However, a table of one person's ranked optimum lathers could provide help to others, especially for those who would like to know how certain soaps and creams behave relative to other soaps and creams and for those who might have less experience "dialing in" soaps and creams.
This thread is for my optimum lather table, which includes optimum water-to-soap/cream ratios and total lather masses. I want to figure out what works best for me, and I like the idea of making the right amount of lather with the right amount of water. Whenever I finish evaluating a soap or cream, I will add its ranked optimum lather data to the table and provide relevant notes. Effectively, updates will serve as reviews for added soaps and creams. Updates are expected to be mostly for soaps, which explains the placement of this thread.
Building Exact Lather
On April 19th, I wrote about my method of building exact lather, which involves directly measuring shaving soap/cream and water masses in a lathering bowl (link), and since April 21st, I've been making exact lather with a synthetic brush, which allows me to "accurately create the exact lather that I want, consistent with calculations" (link). Before building an exact lather, I open an electronic spreadsheet with tabulated records for each shave and I read how much soap/cream mass and water mass should be measured. Equipment is gathered for measuring the soap/cream and water masses. An example of this setup is pictured below.
The 0.1 g resolution scale is turned on, the lathering bowl is placed on the scale's platform, and the mass reading is allowed to settle:
A spoon is used to scoop up some soap/cream:
The scale is then tared for a zero reading:
The lathering bowl is picked up and, using a finger, soap/cream is transferred from the spoon and spread around the inside bottom of the bowl. The bowl is placed back onto the scale and soap/cream is added and/or scraped up until the desired mass of soap/cream is achieved:
Remaining soap/cream on the spoon is transferred back into the soap/cream container and the scale is tared before adding any water:
The desired mass of room-temperature water is then added using a plastic bottle that has a cap which allows for water drops to be added in larger quantities, with larger shakes of the bottle, or in smaller drops, with lighter movements of the bottle:
Currently, the water being used is filtered, moderately hard (~95 mg/L) tap water. It seems reasonable here to use fairly average water, as opposed to distilled (~2.5 mg/L), soft (≤60 mg/L), or very hard (>180 mg/L) water.
With the lather ingredients measured, I set the lathering bowl next to the sink:
I put away the scale, the soap/cream container, and the water bottle, and then at the sink, I rinse off the spoon and finger that were used to place soap/cream into the lathering bowl. The spoon is dried and put away and my hands become dry enough in the process. Cleanup here with respect to soaps is easier than when I used to load my brush directly from soap jars.
After wetting my face, I use a dry synthetic brush to build the lather in the lathering bowl. The synthetic-hair brush ensures that water is neither added to nor taken from the lather, which would happen with a natural-hair brush. Care is taken to avoid losing anything from, or adding water into, the lathering bowl at this point. A few times during the lather-building process, the brush is scraped against the edge of the bowl in order to better incorporate the lather from the inside of the brush:
Lather building continues with swirling and back-and-forth motions until equilibrium is reached:
Finding Optimum Lather
With the lather built, it is then time for the shave. The shave is accomplished with three passes that all include blade buffing, so the pace is believed to be slower than average. A smooth chrome-plated DE safety razor is currently used with agreeable blades and blade exposures. Before each pass, I rinse my face with room-temperature or lukewarm water, but I take extra time to wipe away excess water in order to minimize alterations to the lather when it is applied to my face. Lather is applied as uniformly and consistently as possible for each pass, shave, and soap/cream so as to fairly evaluate the right amount of lather needed for each soap/cream. To this end, for the third and final pass, lather from inside the brush is used as much as possible in order to effectively eliminate the influence of the brush on total mass. It is known at this point whether the amount of lather is too little, good, or too much. By the end of the shave, notes on performance have been taken mentally, as well.
After the shave, I rinse my face and currently apply a homemade toner. The brush and bowl are thoroughly rinsed together, with excess water really flung/shaken out of the brush, and then the bowl is put away, the brush handle is dried with a clean towel, and the brush is put back in its spot to dry for the next shave. Finally, my regular post-shave balm is applied to the face and I moisturize my hands as normal. After a reasonable amount of time has passed, the post-shave is evaluated.
Notes on the total mass, lather quality, slickness, cushion, and post-shave are recorded in the electronic spreadsheet of tabulated lather compositions. Based on the results, I make a decision on the masses of soap/cream and water so as to yield the desired total mass and water-to-soap/cream ratio for the next day's shave. Water-to-soap/cream ratio is optimized to the nearest 0.5 value while total mass is simultaneously optimized as precisely as can be accomplished by varying soap/cream and water masses from day to day. As the number of shaves with a soap/cream increases, the optimum lather is approached, and once the optimum has been found, it can be compared to optimum lathers for other soaps and creams through sequential shaves in order to help rank the soap/cream that has just been optimized. Revisiting optimums may lead to adjustments on them. For example, the total mass could be increased or decreased while maintaining the water-to-soap/cream ratio. After ranking has occurred, the optimization cycle begins for the next soap/cream.
Optimum Lather Table
Here is the current version of the optimum lather table:
Performance Ranking | Soap/Cream | Soap/Cream Mass (g) | Water Mass (g) | Total Mass (g) | Water-to-Soap/Cream Ratio |
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There are no soaps or creams listed yet, but I have evaluated a few soaps over the past few months and I will add them to the table with individual updates to this thread. Updates after that are expected to be less frequent, given the time it takes to thoroughly evaluate a soap/cream.
Feedback
Please, feel free to provide feedback as the optimum lather table develops. Interesting discussions are always welcome.