Only an idea, but.... (replating of small defects in nickel platings)

[dullhead]

I saw some videos about nickel plating. There are two types (as far as I know...) of nickel plating procedures:
- based on passing electric current: fast, thick but uneven layers of nickel, cannot put nickel "into" structures/holes because electric current always takes the way of least (electrical) resistance, which is most often the shortest way
- based on a chemical process (which is unknown to me), which is slow, needs to be heated over a longer time, the layer of nickel is thinner, but more durable and mostly even and can reach into holes and structures.

Furthermore I learned from this forum (thanks! ) that is not a good idea to take a Gillette Slim appart, when not needed.

Suppose there is a smaller defect - say - on one of the silo doors of a Slim/Fatboy and the bronze is visible.

What if one would take a Edding/Sharpie like pen - without any ink and fill the absorbent stuff inside the the Edding/Sharpie with nickel acetate solution (which can be made at home from nickel strips and white vinegar solution), out a nickel (NO COPPER!) wire into the absorbent stuff, put the endcap
of the Edding/Sharpie back into place, connect (-) of a battery (4.5V) to the razor and the wire to the (+) to the contact and is now able to "draw" or "paint" nickel slowly but sure back and remove the defect.

No dissassambly required anymore.

Warning! This is only an idea! Pure theory.....

 

[romsitsa]

Swap the damaged part. The fluid can’t be controlled exept you build a barrier, so “micro plating” isn’t really a workable solution. Then there is the problem of plating thickness and surface preparation.

 

[Scaramouche]

There really isn't a satisfactory way to repair nickel plating without stripping and replating. Selective brush plating is a process used to repair industrial components, but not really adaptable for something small like a razor, is more protective than cosmetic, and can only be used for certain types of plating. A defect is usually the result of some problem with the substrate - sharp edges, pits, etc., and these should be corrected prior to new plating. You can of course replate parts that can be removed without replating the whole razor. And nothing wrong with experimenting either - if it's not an heirloom piece or very valuable, have at it with your theory - you can always fall back on stripping it and starting over!

 

[dullhead]

Ok...I will try to incorporate a Flux compensator into my setup....

Joke aside: Thanks for stopping before I had started (no rethoric. Really: Thank you! )

 

[zbench]

I've replated quite a few razors and at one time posted a long post about it here. Its not difficult and don't really agree with the assessment above that it is uneven. The setup I used was the same one gillete used, that is, hang the degreased and cleaned item in a nickel plating solution and plate it through electrochemical means. The result if you know what you are doing is every bit as good as what was done originally. Caswell sells those kinds of kits. Since the base metal is brass, the nickel sticks tightly at an atomic level.

I also dabble in old tools, and because most of them are cast iron, a wash coat of copper which sticks to steel must be applied first and then plated with nickel. Nickel will not stick to iron.

 

[dullhead]

In a video by Matt(?) of Razor Emporium it is said, that in a first step they strip off all nickel from the brass, then replate
with copper, since nickel does not stick well to bronze so well and in a final step they replate with nickel...

 

[zbench]

I don’t agree with that at all. Bronze is 90% copper. Nickel sticks to Bronze just fine.

 

[bdehne]

I think I read that copper is also used to fill pits and scratches because it can be built up then sanded or polished smooth before the final plating. Of course I have a leaky brain and could be dreaming this all up.

 

[dullhead]

In the meanwhile I did some nickel plating experiments - no razors were harmed in this experiment.
First of all: nickel salts are poisonous and are suspicious for triggering cancer. You have been warned!

I made some nickel acetate via electrolysis and then electroplated a copper coin I had laying around
here. As a first experiment it works well: The plating was mechanically quite robust.
But taken as a starting point for replating a razor - no.
The thickness of the plating differs depending of the current that flows at the certain part of the coin.
After some polishing the plating was quite shiny but the "color" was grey-ish.
On the internet I read about "bright nickel plating" and such. It seems, that a good and even plating
is only possible with chemical plating instead of the simpler electroplating and it involves using
chemicals like sulfuric acid, which are neither freely and legally available here nor do I want to
handle those chemicals myself - I have no lab available.
The electroplating I did used acetic acid, which can easily be bought as "white vinegar, 25%" and
some nickel strips normally used to connect lipo-cells (and a power supply of an old PC of course ).

The result is: Electroplating nickel directly onto copper is possible and the results are mechanically
robust.
But they are by no means comparable to the silvery and even plating Gillette did with their adjustable Slim.

Are there others around here, who have successfully replated a Slim with household items?