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Online Honing Class for Beginners - Are You Interested?

The edge in photo 1 will shave arm hair and probably pass a hanging hair test for most.

Most try an HHT and it does not cut the hair. They do not say,” That’s a fail.” They try to cut again at a different part of the edge. When it does cut, they tell themselves, it passed the HHT!

Then run through a quick progression and are surprised when it does not shave so well.
Yep, when I started I used to do this, if one part of the blade cut hair, off I went to my finishers, end result was a useless shave.
Honing needs patience, if it takes you all day to get that bevel correct, it takes all day, no escaping that. Once you realise this the finishing and shave is totally different.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
An Honest Man.

Yea, we have all done it.

But it should not take all day to set a bevel. Doing the same thing, expecting a different result, is... not working. Find out why.
That depends. You could be trying to set a bevel on my Cnat and be starting with a 180° bevel angle on a Titan ACRO T.H-70 😁.
 
But it should not take all day to set a bevel.

This would my thinking. It's not desperately complicated or lengthy process, nor is the theory behind it difficult to explain or understand. If you teach someone to set a bevel by raising burrs, then they'll know what a set bevel looks and acts like, and the next time they do it they can try with a bit more finesse and less material removal.

The most important thing would be conveying that you need to use a decent bit of pressure, but not so much that you're significantly flexing the blade and altering the bevel angle unnecessarily. I think people are likely to be a bit overly gentle with it when starting. I was anyway.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
@cotedupy, of course you are right that it shouldn't take all day to set a bevel. However, you are forgetting that students could be located in any of the world's timezones. Having a single question and getting it answered could take 12 to 24 hours or more.

I dare say that in a face-to-face class situation, the whole basic honing instruction could be taught in just a few hours. I can just imagine how many students would be interested in attending a one-day honing class in Mutchilba, Queensland, Australia.
 
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rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
Wow: that is off the beaten track! I lived in Nhulunbuy as a kid and thought that was out of the way... :p
I had a girlfriend (Kiwi) living in Nhulunbuy many decades ago and visited her there a few times. I was in Cairns then.
 
An Honest Man.

Yea, we have all done it.

But it should not take all day to set a bevel. Doing the same thing, expecting a different result, is... not working. Find out why.
I think when I said all day was a bit exaggerated ☺️ but you get my point, you can't rush through with only one part of the blade cutting arm hair. All I wanted to do was to get the razor on my face, now I know that this first part of honing will effect the end product, so if I need to spend time at this part of the honing , that's fine no rush just get it correct. Anyway, us Brits are never in a rush ☺️
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
Here is how I put together my lapping films substrate (you only need one substrate).

I did not have access to thick acrylic (the easiest substrate to use) so I put together a composite. My materials consisted of:
  • 36" x 3" x ½" (25.4mm x 76mm x 12.7mm) balsa wood from my local craft store about USD 6.
  • Smooth ceramic floor tile approximately 300mm x 300mm (12" x 12") from my local tile (flooring) store. I got mine for free but it could cost you up to USD 1.
  • 300mm x 72mm x 6mm acrylic from my local glazier store. They cut this to size for me. It needs to be just a little bigger than the tile piece. Cost was about USD 3.
  • Spray contact adhesive from local hardware store. Spray is not needed, you can use liquid contact adhesive that is much cheaper.
  • Small can of acrylic paint (colour of your choice) from local hardware store.
  • 25mm paintbrush from local hardware store.
  • A couple of sheets of wet & dry sandpaper (about 100 to 200 grit) from local hardware store.
  • A small roll of masking tape from local hardware store.
  • A sheet of garnet sandpaper (about 200 grit) from local hardware store.
  • A box cutter (like Stanley knife) for cutting the balsa wood from local hardware store.
  • 12" (300mm) steel rule from local hardware or stationery store.
The tile store gave me the tile and cut it into four equal pieces each about 297mm x 71mm. Only one piece is needed for the film substrate but the other three pieces can be used later in putting together three substrates for balsa strops.

The tile had a gloss finish on top and some ridges in the underside. I used W&D to roughen up the gloss side so as the contact adhesive will bond to it. I used a 400 grit whetstone to grind the ridges off the underside of the tile so that it was smooth to glue the balsa wood to it. I also sanded the sides of the tile piece smooth with W&D.

Using the box cutter and steel rule, I cut the balsa wood into two pieces each 298mm x 72mm x 12.7mm so that it was just a little biger than the tile piece. I then used the contact adhesive to glue these two pieces together to make one piece 298mm x 72mm X 25.4mm. Allow the adhesive to dry for about 24 hours.

The now 1" (25mm) thick piece of balsa wood was then glued to the underside of the tile piece using contact adhesive leaving about 0.5mm to 1mm balsa overhang all round. Allow the adhesive to dry for about 24 hours.

Now the acrylic can be glued to the top surface of the tile piece using contact adhesive leaving about 0.5mm to 1mm acrylic overhanging all round. Allow the adhesive to dry for about 24 hours.

Using your garnet sandpaper, sand the balsa wood and acrylic so that it matches the dive of the tile piece (297mm x 71mm). Then mask the four sides of the acrylic and paint balsa wood and edges of the tile piece with acrylic paint. Follow the directions on the tin. Apply a total of three coats. This is done to waterproof the wood and tile. Once the paint is touch dry, remove the masking tape. Allow the final coat of paint to dry for 24 hour.

You now have your lapping film substrate. Mine ended up being 297mm x 71mm x 40mm thick and has a mass of about 550g, about half the mass of the same size in full acrylic.

DSCF0745.JPG
My completed composite substrate

DSCF0747.JPG
While buying the balsa for this project, you might like to buy additional balsa for three pasted balsa strops. Add:

1 piece 36" x 3" x ¼" thick for the top balsa that is pasted
2 pieces 36" x 3" x ⅜" or ½" thick for the substrates

If you can't get 3" wide balsa wood, you can buy wider and cut it to size.
 
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Ah gotcha! Maybe I’ll try next time...

TBH the thing I use most often on both knives and razors is the thumb nail test. Which is extremely accurate for edges at pretty much any stage of a progression. Though requires a fair bit of practice to calibrate a feel for it, and I’m not sure could really be ‘taught’ as such.
Agreed. "Sticks" at a 45°, and glides over a perpendicular nail tip like greased glass. No better tactile method that I'm aware of. The cotton ball ain't bad, either.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
If setting the bevel is taking a long time, try honing the blade in sections. I still do this for the super wonky ones anyway, it’s easier.

Concentrate on the toe, the last 1/3 of the edge, don’t worry about the middle. Bias your pressure a little, and to do this you may have to lift the heel off the hone a little. Of course, do not lift the spine above the area that you’re working on off the hone. Watch your undercut if you’re using a waterstone.

Then concentrate on the heel, the last 1/3 of the edge, don’t worry about the middle. Bias your pressure a little, and to do this you may have to lift the toe off the hone a little. Of course, do not lift the spine above the area that you’re working on off the hone. Watch your undercut if you’re using a waterstone.

Use light pressure and let your honing stroke and the stone do the work. A good loupe and a strong, directional light are your friends.

When the heel and toe tests set, then use a gentle rolling stroke to finish the center and smooth everything together.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
TY Larry, I hope tis helps a little. Straight razor is kind of an oxymoron because most of them aren’t straight. Getting the last bit of the toe and heel can be difficult depending on the grinding and how much wear/abuse that the razor has seen.
 
I’ve always wanted to learn how to do it. I have a Dovo and a cheaper Grim Dollar I think it is called straight razors. And a strop. Just not the rest of the stuff. I’d like to see how they shave in comparison to my safety razors. I’ve just felt that between working, taking care of my 1 year old, and seemingly never ending work around the house I’ve never gotten to trying them out. At some point I’d like to take them out and learn though.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
I’ve always wanted to learn how to do it. I have a Dovo and a cheaper Grim Dollar I think it is called straight razors. And a strop. Just not the rest of the stuff. I’d like to see how they shave in comparison to my safety razors. I’ve just felt that between working, taking care of my 1 year old, and seemingly never ending work around the house I’ve never gotten to trying them out. At some point I’d like to take them out and learn though.

There’s no time like the present!
 
Hi. I've been shaving with a shavette, with personna blades, for about 8 of the last 10 years. A few weeks back I sent a couple of straigt razors off to be restored, and started using them when they returned. I've bought some vintage ones, and now have 10. I've spent countless hours reading about all things sharpening/honing related. I am determined to learn and if you have an open spot left, I think this would be a good place to start. Thanks
 
Here is how I put together my lapping films substrate (you only need one substrate).

I did not have access to thick acrylic (the easiest substrate to use) so I put together a composite. My materials consisted of:
  • 36" x 3" x ½" (25.4mm x 76mm x 12.7mm) balsa wood from my local craft store about USD 6.
  • Smooth ceramic floor tile approximately 300mm x 300mm (12" x 12") from my local tile (flooring) store. I got mine for free but it could cost you up to USD 1.
  • 300mm x 72mm x 6mm acrylic from my local glazier store. They cut this to size for me. It needs to be just a little bigger than the tile piece. Cost was about USD 3.
  • Spray contact adhesive from local hardware store. Spray is not needed, you can use liquid contact adhesive that is much cheaper.
  • Small can of acrylic paint (colour of your choice) from local hardware store.
  • 25mm paintbrush from local hardware store.
  • A couple of sheets of wet & dry sandpaper (about 100 to 200 grit) from local hardware store.
  • A small roll of masking tape from local hardware store.
  • A sheet of garnet sandpaper (about 200 grit) from local hardware store.
  • A box cutter (like Stanley knife) for cutting the balsa wood from local hardware store.
  • 12" (300mm) steel rule from local hardware or stationery store.
The tile store gave me the tile and cut it into four equal pieces each about 297mm x 71mm. Only one piece is needed for the film substrate but the other three pieces can be used later in putting together three substrates for balsa strops.

The tile had a gloss finish on top and some ridges in the underside. I used W&D to roughen up the gloss side so as the contact adhesive will bond to it. I used a 400 grit whetstone to grind the ridges off the underside of the tile so that it was smooth to glue the balsa wood to it. I also sanded the sides of the tile piece smooth with W&D.

Using the box cutter and steel rule, I cut the balsa wood into two pieces each 298mm x 72mm x 12.7mm so that it was just a little biger than the tile piece. I then used the contact adhesive to glue these two pieces together to make one piece 298mm x 72mm X 25.4mm. Allow the adhesive to dry for about 24 hours.

The now 1" (25mm) thick piece of balsa wood was then glued to the underside of the tile piece using contact adhesive leaving about 0.5mm to 1mm balsa overhang all round. Allow the adhesive to dry for about 24 hours.

Now the acrylic can be glued to the top surface of the tile piece using contact adhesive leaving about 0.5mm to 1mm acrylic overhanging all round. Allow the adhesive to dry for about 24 hours.

Using your garnet sandpaper, sand the balsa wood and acrylic so that it matches the dive of the tile piece (297mm x 71mm). Then mask the four sides of the acrylic and paint balsa wood and edges of the tile piece with acrylic paint. Follow the directions on the tin. Apply a total of three coats. This is done to waterproof the wood and tile. Once the paint is touch dry, remove the masking tape. Allow the final coat of paint to dry for 24 hour.

You now have your lapping film substrate. Mine ended up being 297mm x 71mm x 40mm thick and has a mass of about 550g, about half the mass of the same size in full acrylic.

View attachment 1484008
My completed composite substrate

View attachment 1484009
While buying the balsa for this project, you might like to buy additional balsa for three pasted balsa strops. Add:

1 piece 36" x 3" x ¼" thick for the top balsa that is pasted
2 pieces 36" x 3" x ⅜" or ½" thick for the substrates

If you can't get 3" wide balsa wood, you can buy wider and cut it to size.
What size acrylic would be preferred for this part as well as the whole project? Is the business end the acrylic layer or the balsa layer - the layer that is hopefully gonna get some action? I got a GD 208 - I assume that is going to work? I don’t care if it gets destroyed in the attempt.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
What size acrylic would be preferred for this part as well as the whole project? Is the business end the acrylic layer or the balsa layer - the layer that is hopefully gonna get some action? I got a GD 208 - I assume that is going to work? I don’t care if it gets destroyed in the attempt.
The preferred acrylic size is 300mm x 72mm x 20mm to 30mm thick. With that, you don't need any ceramic tile or balsa. You just use the acrylic. This is heavier than the composite substrate but requires no "manufacturing".

If you cannot readily source 20mm (or greater) thick acrylic, then you can make a substrate as detailed in post #50. The business end, where the lapping film is laid, is the acrylic. That is why it is not painted. The surface that the lapping film is laid on must be perfectly flat and smooth, hence the acrylic.

The Gold Dollar 208 should work very well for you. It is not one of my favourites due to its balance being rather blade-heavy but this is just my personal preference. It is due to the lightweight scales used.
 
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