Once Upon A Stubble

[Esox]

The thing is, Mike, with an open comb (Merkur head on the Jagger handle) the first pass needs doing in shorter strokes, but then the second and third pass are pretty normal.

With a closed comb - forget it! Scissors first! Then rinse after every stroke. Should shift it with an extra WTG pass at the beginning

Obviously, that pic was to show where the growth would be, so you get an idea of stubble on regular shaves. The tache and goatee are longer than that now. It's up to about 80mm

My Tech wouldnt do it easily. My Slim on 9 would do it more easily. My Regent would do it pretty easily. All are closed comb razors, but the King of them is my Regent. It has as much blade exposure as my R41 or Grande.

Growth like that are why OC razors were invented, I believe. They align and funnel the hairs to the blade.

 

[comis]

Re-cap

Page 3:

AimlessWanderer:
How often do people take razor apart to dry the blade
Technique improvement will dictate what razor I need next or ability to test new gear

Esox: Don't catch falling blade
The benefit of learning from a mild razor vs an aggressive razor

TinyT: How often do people take razor apart to dry the blade
Boar brush suggestions
Tryablade suggestion (from his journal)



Page 4:

AimlessWanderer:
Potential drawbacks on switching gears all the time and merits of a baseline kit
Preference of lather and switching blades to reinforce technique with hardware
Suggestion for Shaveden for oversea mailing with many samples to try(Yes, yes, yes!)
Kitchen ware to load the soap puck in
What it takes to trim a multiple days worth of growth

TinyT: His baseline kit of Gillette Tech and Proraso White

Esox: Hone technique with same gear and find ways to overcome shortcomings
Recommending Gillette Slim and post-war Tech as baseline candidates
B/S/T suggestion and what motivates the change of razors


On my own:

Started sticking to the same set of gear for at least 6 shaves, as AimlessWanderer kindly suggested, so far 4 shaves in, no weepers and I take that as a good sign. Right now I am on Setting 1 of Futur, which gives me a CCS/DFS within 2 passes, it's plenty efficient for me.

Taconic pre-shave oil(new) like it quite a bit, really slick but tends to gunk up the blade a little more

Alum stick(new) I think it's a good addition, didn't sting as much as I expected, and probably great for future weepers/irritation. Also a great learning tool to tell which part I 'scrape' closer than necessary.

 

[comis]

Date: Mar 15, 2020

Gear: Futur, Astra SP(1), TOBS St. James, CIC boar #9

Cond: 2-3mm whiskers

Prep: Shower, shampoo n conditioner on beard, lather pre-shave rub-in, Taconic Pre-shave oil

Shave:
1st pass Futur@1, 97% finished
2nd pass Futur @1 very light XTG under nose
3rd pass not needed

Post Shave: Alum block, Thayers witch hazel and Nivea sensitive

Conclusion: Good shave, CCS/DFS, again thick lather and oil helps, for past few shaves, I did shampoo and condition the beard in shower, the difference of beard 'hardness' is quite substantial.

Shaving with just my right hand, I notice myself having a tendency to shave from left to right, but that would mean going ATG on left side vs WTG on right side of the mustache. And sometimes it does look kinda comical after the first pass if I were paying attention to it.

I wonder do everyone switch hands when they shave? Or it's a dexterity thing and just practice?

No weepers, Alum sting tiny bit more than last time(Astra SP(3)) but just few short seconds, but it's a new blade so maybe slightly more 'scrapping' as well.

I remembered reading a polarity of views on Thayers witch hazel, some sworn by it and some said it is misrepresenting. Either way, I just want to give it a go to see that for myself. I used the Astringent version very sparingly, and honestly don't really feel much tightening effect, maybe a very very mild 'sting' but after the alum block, it's almost non-existing.

Again, I applied some Nivea at the end, and found it non-absorbing and easily washed off after few hours. Out of curiosity, will something simple like Vaseline a better 'moisturizer' since it does seem to absorb into skin better?

Face practically feel normal in 10-15 min post shave, all in all, a good shave.

 

[TinyT]

I like your approach to your shaving journey. You seem to be moving along nicely.

I wonder do everyone switch hands when they shave? Or it's a dexterity thing and just practice?

I don't, but I will do eventually, or at least try to. For me, it's because I have one ulitmate goal; to develop the best technique I possibly can. However, I expect it to be one of the last pieces of the puzzle, after I've either achieved or come close to my ambition for a perfectly smooth shave, whether that be BBS, comfortbale ATG shaving or something else. I expect it to take me quite a while.

Again, I applied some Nivea at the end, and found it non-absorbing and easily washed off after few hours. Out of curiosity, will something simple like Vaseline a better 'moisturizer' since it does seem to absorb into skin better?

I've used this on and off for a number of years, and not just after shaving.

It's a womens moisturiser but I don't need a skin care product to have a manly name like 'turbo' for me to use it; it's moisturiser! I use it on freshly shaved skin and it absorbs very easily. I don't like post shave balms at all, either scent wise or feel wise. I have a couple of aftershave samples which I'll try at some time. If vaseline moisturiser works for you, give it a try. I used a bit of supermarket own brand cocoa body moituriser a shave or two ago and it worked perfectly well.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Another right hand shaver here. I daren't even wipe my backside with my left hand, never mind drive a razor round my face.

 

[comis]

I like your approach to your shaving journey. You seem to be moving along nicely.



I don't, but I will do eventually, or at least try to. For me, it's because I have one ulitmate goal; to develop the best technique I possibly can. However, I expect it to be one of the last pieces of the puzzle, after I've either achieved or come close to my ambition for a perfectly smooth shave, whether that be BBS, comfortbale ATG shaving or something else. I expect it to take me quite a while.



I've used this on and off for a number of years, and not just after shaving.

View attachment 1075014

It's a womens moisturiser but I don't need a skin care product to have a manly name like 'turbo' for me to use it; it's moisturiser! I use it on freshly shaved skin and it absorbs very easily. I don't like post shave balms at all, either scent wise or feel wise. I have a couple of aftershave samples which I'll try at some time. If vaseline moisturiser works for you, give it a try. I used a bit of supermarket own brand cocoa body moituriser a shave or two ago and it worked perfectly well.

It never seize to amaze me the distance on B&B folks would go to find better shave...I will definitely give a look to this too.

I read a funny thread about people prepping for covid19 on general, and never have I seen folks so well prepared for this outbreak, if you ask me, I'd say we are prepped ready for Armageddon.

 

[comis]

Another right hand shaver here. I daren't even wipe my backside with my left hand, never mind drive a razor round my face.

Remind me if we meet next time...left hand shake, left hand shake...

 

[comis]

Date: Mar 18, 2020 (Day 17)

Gear: Futur, Astra SP(2), TOBS St. James, CIC boar #9

Cond: 2-3mm whiskers

Prep: Shower, shampoo n conditioner on beard, lather pre-shave rub-in, Taconic Pre-shave oil

Shave:
1st pass Futur@1, 92% finished
2nd pass Futur @1 very light XTG under nose, mouth corner; ATG under chin
3rd pass Skipped, it might have yield a closer shave, but not sure the skin can take it

Post Shave: Alum block, Thayers witch hazel and Nivea sensitive

Conclusion: OK shave. SAS/CCS. Right after the first pass, I knew this shave is a little different from the previous ones. I had been having pretty good luck to finish with a CCS shave in 2 passes, and I was having a little self doubt whether I could repeat it this time.

And as much as I keep telling myself to be patient and use zero pressure, I think subconsciously I still might have applied more force than usual and I could feel a little more tug and 'scarp' right under the nose. Luckily, I stopped right away and there was no weepers. But I think it was a lousy job right under the nose, and it was only SAS for that area.

That area continue to be a trouble area, though I would love to pursue it further, it ain't worth it if the price is to have nicks/weepers/irritation. I wonder maybe the situation would improve if I use a slimmer head than Futur, or my skin would toughen over time...I could have sworn the pressure was so light the razor is literally is "hovering".

Maybe I need to hold the handle right out in front of my face, so the angle is more shallow?

In retrospect, I think @Esox is right, though I might be able to get along with Futur just fine at setting 1, it might not be an ideal candidate as a 'baseline' razor where I could call "home". The clumsy head is just not easiest to get good at, and I don't know whether the lack of blade rigidity may contribute to the pain undernose.

The tricky question is what razor I should choose as a "baseline" kit--I want to find something that is easy to find and readily available on Amazon, so I could always find replacement if I damage/lose it in the future. Right now, I have DE89, Rockwell 6S, Feather AS-D2 for future candidates, and a Post war Tech incoming. Should I choose the DE89 as the baseline? I know it may not be stellar in blade rigidity department, but at least it is widely available and maybe an easier shave than Futur? I look forward to the Post War Tech, but I would have more comfort knowing my baseline kit is still in production, instead of relying on vintage availability.

Alum stung for few seconds, but not too bad for what I thought could be irritation.

Days since last mishap: 4

 

[Esox]

The tricky question is what razor I should choose as a "baseline" kit--I want to find something that is easy to find and readily available on Amazon, so I could always find replacement if I damage/lose it in the future. Right now, I have DE89, Rockwell 6S, Feather AS-D2 for future candidates, and a Post war Tech incoming. Should I choose the DE89 as the baseline?

When testing razors, think methodically, the same as you would testing any other component. Isolate that component so that the only thing that changes is the razor.

Load a fresh blade of the same kind and from the same tuck into each razor. Use the same soap and brush for each shave. Focus on using the same technique, the same number of passes and the same direction of those passes. Make each consistent and do each shave as closely to the last as possible. What you're doing is isolating razor performance while keeping everything else a constant. The only variable is the razor.

The razor that performs the best is your baseline.

Remember that baseline and compare all other razors to it in the same fashion. If another razor beats it, that razor becomes your new baseline.

In my experience few razors are blade sensitive. Blades interact more with the skin and hair than the razor itself. My best blades are the ones that offer a consistent performance level across all of my razors.

 

[comis]

When testing razors, think methodically, the same as you would testing any other component. Isolate that component so that the only thing that changes is the razor.

Load a fresh blade of the same kind and from the same tuck into each razor. Use the same soap and brush for each shave. Focus on using the same technique, the same number of passes and the same direction of those passes. Make each consistent and do each shave as closely to the last as possible. What you're doing is isolating razor performance while keeping everything else a constant. The only variable is the razor.

The razor that performs the best is your baseline.

Remember that baseline and compare all other razors to it in the same fashion. If another razor beats it, that razor becomes your new baseline.

In my experience few razors are blade sensitive. Blades interact more with the skin and hair than the razor itself. My best blades are the ones that offer a consistent performance level across all of my razors.

Thank you for the razor testing tip, hopefully I could try to create an environment consistent enough(I think the bigger variable at this time might be technique)to test out the razors.

There seems to be two schools of thought about 'baseline'--one is what AI's believed in(if I understand him correctly), a baseline that will not change or move, no matter whether there is 'better' or new kit is out there, whereas your baseline is constantly moving, compatible to your growing technique or current preference.

I can see there are merits in each of these baseline theory, and that's why I am rather curious what choice to make for the razor.

Because if I were to stick with a same kit for longer period of time and calling it baseline(Al's theory), that razor better be one that is helpful to learn technique with. This hobby is quite highly subjective, some learn faster than others, everyone's skin and beard is different, but I still love to hear others' experiences, so at least I could make informed decision on how to best approach it.

Soap/cream wise, I think TOBS as a cream is decent to work with, I love the scene and it's large enough a brand that I won't worry they will be going away anytime soon. Brush wise, I am more than sure this CIC boar brush is definitely no baseline material, even it has soften slightly due to splitting, it is still almost all scrub and I hate it with a passion since day one. Luckily, help is its way.

 

[Esox]

I can see there are merits in each of these baseline theory, and that's why I am rather curious what choice to make for the razor.

Thats why I suggested you use your best razor.

If you follow Al's line of thought, you'll become the best with the razor you choose, whether or not its the best razor for you.

Theres lots to be said for Al's suggestion. A Fixed Four will help with that immensely. I jump straight to the conclusion because its the results of the razor itself that I'm after, which is why I suggested you start with your best and then become the best you can with it. Once you have become the best you can with your best razor and are getting consistent results, you can evaluate whats lacking, if anything, from that razor. Once you understand those points that are lacking, if any, you can make a very good educated guess as to which razor will give you the shave you want.

 

[comis]

Thats why I suggested you use your best razor.

If you follow Al's line of thought, you'll become the best with the razor you choose, whether or not its the best razor for you.

Theres lots to be said for Al's suggestion. A Fixed Four will help with that immensely. I jump straight to the conclusion because its the results of the razor itself that I'm after, which is why I suggested you start with your best and then become the best you can with it. Once you have become the best you can with your best razor and are getting consistent results, you can evaluate whats lacking, if anything, from that razor. Once you understand those points that are lacking, if any, you can make a very good educated guess as to which razor will give you the shave you want.

Make perfect sense now, I think moving onward I will adopt a "hybrid" method is a good compromise--

Al recommended me to stick with a Fix Four at least for 6 consecutive shaves without mishaps, which I think it makes sense and I am following suit now. By having 6 consecutive good shaves, it helps to eliminate some of those newbie inconsistencies, and give me good chances to evaluate an individual razor closely.

Why don't I try to use that methodology to test out each of those few razors I own(Rockwell 6S, Feather AS-D2, DE89, Gillette Tech) and see which one is my 'best razor' for now. Then I will try to stick with that one set a little longer while experimenting with different blades/lather/brush. So I could find a set of gears as 'baseline' while trying to be the best I can with it.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

As soon as you feel confident in your own ability to be repeatable and consistent in your handling, then Mike's suggestions make perfect sense. You said yourself, that technique may still be your biggest variable. When you do start trying out the other stuff you've got, you need to be sure that any changes are due to the kit, and not due to you. Only you can be the best judge of when you're ready for that step.

Mike is right in that, to some extent, I get on best with kit that suits my well established handling. However, that's because I went 20+ years with one kit. You're not at risk of getting so entrenched in your approach as me. Having said that, I have also used straights and shavette with decent results since signing up here, so I'm not completely inflexible

 

[comis]

As soon as you feel confident in your own ability to be repeatable and consistent in your handling, then Mike's suggestions make perfect sense. You said yourself, that technique may still be your biggest variable. When you do start trying out the other stuff you've got, you need to be sure that any changes are due to the kit, and not due to you. Only you can be the best judge of when you're ready for that step.

Mike is right in that, to some extent, I get on best with kit that suits my well established handling. However, that's because I went 20+ years with one kit. You're not at risk of getting so entrenched in your approach as me. Having said that, I have also used straights and shavette with decent results since signing up here, so I'm not completely inflexible

I don't think most folks just started wet shaving could do what you did, I think a member is doing a self imposed "Cal Ripkin Challenges", but even that was only 10 years on the same kit, and you'd already won that twice...

For me, I probably will venture out to do a quick test on those few razors I own(6 consecutive no-mishap shaves each), and try to settle on a razor as my newbie baseline. Futur @ setting 1 is alright, it is quite efficient and I could finish the shave in practically 1.5 pass. But the same aggressiveness does affect my willingness to try XTG or ATG techniques. Hopefully, this small journey could help me find a good compromise, so I could hone my technique on it while trying different blades/soap/brush.

 

[comis]

Date: Mar 20, 2020

Dry run with Michel Wool Fat soap

Finally, it arrived couple days back and I had been waiting for a chance to give it a try. Somehow I got the impression from the forums that MWF is not an easy soap to lather with, so I went ahead to do all the homework I can and found a nice video by Mantic89 on MWF:

Not knowing whether MWF might have changed formula over the years, I only soaked the soap in luke warm water for a minute. Then I started loading it with my lousy CIC Boar Brush #9. Since it was my first time trying to lathering a soap, I just halfheartedly rubbing it for 15-20 seconds. Then I start bowl lathering it. The process was surprisingly easy...so easy that it felt slightly easier to lather than my TOBS shaving cream. The outcome is a rich thick lather with very mild scent, and it has some similarity to TOBS St. James which I really love.

I don't have to shave today, but just doing a dry run to see whether it may cause any irritation on skin. So I painted it on and waited for few minutes to mimic my shave passes. My overall impression is the slickness and texture is rather similar to what I got from TOBS cream, and it does require too much water.

Since I didn't go on with the shave and this won't be tested for real after finding my basline razors, I won't really get to know how does it really compares to TOBS, but my initial impression is rather positive.

Btw, why all the fuss about people having hard time lathering with MWF? It's not difficult at all, and I even bowl lathered it in a glass kitchenware. Would it because my crappy all scratch CIC #9 boar brush is doing me a good service? Hard water? Or the it's a brand new soap so it's easier to lather?

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Don't have any problems with Mitchell's either. Maybe it's changes in water, different brushes, or just how folks use it... or a combination thereof. It's still my No.1 soap.

The six good shaves (if they all give you six good shaves) with each razor, sounds like a good plan.

 

[TinyT]

I have a hunch that all soaps and creams 'work' and work well; it just takes a bit of time to learn in some cases, especially if coming from a soap that has been mastered. I expect this was behind my initial response to creams, I just wasn't used to using them. Not one to be easily defeated, I've picked up a tube of Palmolive to put to the test.

 

[Esox]

I have a hunch that all soaps and creams 'work' and work well; it just takes a bit of time to learn in some cases, especially if coming from a soap that has been mastered.

Even dish soap works, and pretty well too.

 

[comis]

Don't have any problems with Mitchell's either. Maybe it's changes in water, different brushes, or just how folks use it... or a combination thereof. It's still my No.1 soap.

The six good shaves (if they all give you six good shaves) with each razor, sounds like a good plan.

I will carry on as planned!

I have a hunch that all soaps and creams 'work' and work well; it just takes a bit of time to learn in some cases, especially if coming from a soap that has been mastered. I expect this was behind my initial response to creams, I just wasn't used to using them. Not one to be easily defeated, I've picked up a tube of Palmolive to put to the test.

Hope this works well for you too!

Even dish soap works, and pretty well too.

I did see some youtube shaver done it in the past, but I can't imagine how comfortable it would be. What works and how comfortable was it?

 

[Esox]

I did see some youtube shaver done it in the past, but I can't imagine how comfortable it would be. What works and how comfortable was it?

I already had a fresh blade loaded in the Bullet Tip so thats what I used. I could have just as easily used the MMOC, possibly even easier.

Bullet Tip/PTFE 1
Brush: None.
Soap....

I wet my face thoroughly with warm water, my usual preshave prep. Then I squeezed out about a quarter size blob on my fingers and slowly wiped it over my face and neck mixing it with the water but not creating any froth. Anyone thats used this soap knows how slippery it is in your hands. Mixed with a little bit of water its even slipperier.

First pass N>S, easy peasy. No fuss, long incredibly smooth strokes from the top of my cheek to the base of my neck. Blade feel was obvious. I noticed by the time I got to the left side of my face I was using the razor as steeply as I do with the MMOC on shave 8. Very steep, to get the most blade feel I can have and using more pressure too. I finished that pass and smirked.

I felt around before starting my second pass and found I had a nice and very comfortable first pass. My skin was mostly dry, the blade didnt leave much behind. I knew the soap wasnt gone so I wet my hand and rubbed my face again lightly until the slickness woke up and stopped again just as foam was starting to be created.

Second pass S>N. More of the same insane slickness. Zero cushion. Imagine slippery water. I shaved all areas S>N then started buffing around my chin and sides of my mouth. It was so slick and so easy it defies description.

Finished that pass, I felt around again not sure if there would be enough soap to wake back up, there wasnt. I doled out a dime size dollop and wiped it over my face the same as before then started ATG from my jawline down. No issues whatsoever, not even over my swirls.

I finished with a nice BBS over all areas except along my left side jawline and right under my chin. Its borderline BBS but not quite. The blade feel is so pronounced I must have dropped the angle where I can feel it the most.

I had to wet a hand towel and wipe my face twice to get the residual soap off. I had light redness left side swirl but no irritation at all anywhere else.

Post shave feel is not the best but thats understandable. Now 20 minutes later, its not so bad at all. My skin is cool, comfortable, supple and just feels clean.

I could very easily use this soap again. I think using a soap thats so thin, offers no cushion at all yet is so slick its actually very protective, is an excellent teacher of technique. I'm pretty confident with my GEM razors and usually shave with abandon. After the first 1/2 a stroke, I was shaving with even less worry.