The heads on the majority of my DE razors (two piece and three piece razors) are chrome plated pot metal. I've never oiled the threads of my razors, but I'm wondering if that would help preserve the life of the these razors. Perhaps adding this to my razor-care routine is going way overboard, but I'm already going far overboard with this hobby. Would oiling the threads on the safety razor significantly help preserve the life of the heads? If oiling the threads is recommended, what oil do you use? I was thinking mineral oil, silicon grease or Vaseline.
Oil the Threads of a DE Razor?
- Thread starter misterbryant
- Start date
I know I have heard mineral oil or vegetable oil recommended to lubricate moving parts on vintage adjustables.
Well it wouldn't hurt and it might help prevent wear on the plating. I do this on stainless razors to prevent galling and rust.
If oiling the threads was advisable the manufacturer would include a note to that effect, specifying exactly which oil to use, they don't.
You're falling into the "human" trap. Life's simple, but we feel compelled to make rules and rituals that make it difficult.
That's just my two cents. Do excuse me. I'm having a kinda "rant" evening.
When I rehab a super speed I always clean the threaded shaft and oil it, it makes a big difference on the smoothness of operation. Good care will only extend the life of a razor or any tool for that matter. I found a few vintage razors lately that were pretty close to NOS in condition, I use them in my rotation and keep them in top shape.
Mister Bryant; The Badger and Blade's own restoration expert, Cap or Captain Murphy, recommended keeping all of my Super Speed razor TT0 center rod assemblies oiled with Hoppe's 9 Oil, which is a firearms lubricant. Although my early Super Speeds were in great condition to start with- oiling them periodically has made a vast improvement. Cap recommends cleaning after use by scrubbing the razor with an old toothbrush and dish washing hand soap, rinsing thoroughly, then shaking the daylights out of it to remove water trapped within the handle. He also recommends using a hair blow dryer to completely dry out the inside of the handle. Then put a couple of drops of Hoppe's 9 Oil inside the handle at the cross-shaped TTO knob retaining screw. This sounds involved, but if you have Black Tip Super Speed razors in rotation- this will prevent a catalytic reaction between aluminum and steel parts used by Gillette to manufacture these razors during the Korean war. After taking Cap up on this- all of my razors now work effortlessly to open and close. God Bless! Tony Brown RN mgbbrown
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Bear in mind that the OP is only discussing two and three piece razors, not TTOs.
@Ozarkedger
@mgbbrown
Bear in mind that the OP is only discussing two and three piece razors, not TTOs.
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If I was concerned I would use something like Sentry Solutions tuff glide as it is an oil free dry film lubricant. Having said that... There are so many "oils" in your soap of choice (well, maybe not the Vegan stuff) that isn't it conceivable that your razor's threads are getting lubricated every time you shave? Just a thought...
Just a gentle FYI. For a two/three piece razor, plumbers grease also known as valve grease would be an excellent lube. Just a light coat on the threads, water (hot or cold) will not wash away the lube. It will not harm or discolor the plating. We have hard water here in the Midwest, lots of dissolved lime and calcium which coats everything water flows over or through. I've found preventive maintenance easier than restorative work caused by our high mineral deposits in our water. If you live in an area that has softer/cleaner water then this issue may not be a concern.
I put a dab of Wahl Clipper Oil on my EJ threads from time to time. Just a dab.
Like it!
It's waterproof too, but it's sticky.
If oiling the threads was advisable the manufacturer would include a note to that effect, specifying exactly which oil to use, they don't.
You're falling into the "human" trap. Life's simple, but we feel compelled to make rules and rituals that make it difficult.
That's just my two cents. Do excuse me. I'm having a kinda "rant" evening.
Having a rant night is understandable! Been there and done that.
That said, any fairly fine thread machine screw that is meant for repeated screwing and unscrewing would probably benefit from a touch of oil, since we are not trying to seize or lock it down.
And remember, most but not all, manufacturers see razors, both old and new, as long term a somewhat limited life. How else would they sell you a new one?
I don't find it necessary, but I recall mineral oil is the best choice if you do so.
I don't use "firearms lubricant" on a razor, unless I planned on going "full auto" mode with it at the range. 
Likewise, I wouldn't use "plumbers grease" on it, unless I needed the razor to fix the kitchen sink.
To to keep water from staining the metal on my razor, one could easily swish it around in mason jar of Barbicide/water solution or 70% rubbing alcohol. The alcohol in both mixtures AIDS in water evaporation, including inside the handle. Barbicide also claims that it has anti-rust qualities within it's chemical composition.
If I absolutely had to use an oil because my OCHD was kicking in, I'd use a "food grade" type oil on a tool that I was using to cut the top layer of my skin off. I certainly wouldnt rub gun oil or plumbers grease into a fresh cut on my hand or arm, so why would I use it where it might get into my freshly razor-burned epidermis on my face? Perhaps what others here have already suggested; a drop of mineral oil would be preferred.
Mineral oil is used for many things, including wooden cutting boards for food preparation, as well as injested in small amounts for specific medical reasons. That alone makes it acceptable in my book to have some of it possibly transfer onto my shaved face.
Likewise, I wouldn't use "plumbers grease" on it, unless I needed the razor to fix the kitchen sink.
To to keep water from staining the metal on my razor, one could easily swish it around in mason jar of Barbicide/water solution or 70% rubbing alcohol. The alcohol in both mixtures AIDS in water evaporation, including inside the handle. Barbicide also claims that it has anti-rust qualities within it's chemical composition.
If I absolutely had to use an oil because my OCHD was kicking in, I'd use a "food grade" type oil on a tool that I was using to cut the top layer of my skin off. I certainly wouldnt rub gun oil or plumbers grease into a fresh cut on my hand or arm, so why would I use it where it might get into my freshly razor-burned epidermis on my face? Perhaps what others here have already suggested; a drop of mineral oil would be preferred.
Mineral oil is used for many things, including wooden cutting boards for food preparation, as well as injested in small amounts for specific medical reasons. That alone makes it acceptable in my book to have some of it possibly transfer onto my shaved face.
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I use silicon grease but haven't done so long enough to make any definitive judgments on its effectiveness. What it has going for it is that it is thick and adheres to the surface very well.
Mineral oil or Vaseline them threads up.! You have nothing to loose & everything to gain. I can't tell you how many times I have seen a razor at a thrift store that had the threads & other parts ate up by water or soap scum.
I know he is talking about a standard type safety razor. I assumed there was a reason though that people were recommending food grade oils.
I've been told by [MENTION=72927]Ozziedoc[/MENTION] (who has been very helpful and seems well-informed) that for pot metal, in my case a Muhle R41 2011, silicone grease is the right solution. I read up on it a couple of days ago, and it seems like the correct answer for frail pot metal threads. (I treasure my R41.) Tomorrow I will receive 2oz of silicone grease, bought solely to keep my R41 in good working order.
+1 ... if you lubricate it at all, I would use one of these. You don't want anything that will have any residual smell, and you want to go very, very lightly so it doesn't seep out of the threads and mix in with your lather.
I don't think that lubricating is required. If it was, we'd know about it by now and it would be a regular topic of discussion.
You might just put a little dab of shaving soap on the threads and call it a day.
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