well ive tried my stones with water and i cant seem to get an edge i want. i have a king 1k/6 can i use oil on this instead to try it
oil on whet stones
- Thread starter Staggers and Jags
- Start date
I don't know about the King specifically but generally speaking oil will ruin a synthetic waterstone. I wouldn't do it.
Oil won’t hurt the stone but your issues are probably nothing to do with the choice of honing fluid.
There’s an interesting CliffStamp video where he uses a King 1K stone with oil and it works fine.
There’s an interesting CliffStamp video where he uses a King 1K stone with oil and it works fine.
Shows what I know, lol.
One of the interesting points in the video Cliff makes which I’ve seen first hand having worked in industrial grinding, is that the distinction between abrasives appropriate for water use or oil use is pretty much artificial. The types of relatively soft, resin bonded abrasives we associate as water appropriate are mostly used with oil across the grinding and sharpening world in industry because oil has superior properties to water in basically all domains (heat dissipation, abrasive life, part tolerance, etc). I worked with some center less grinding wheels that were an organic shellac bond, soft enough to gouge with a fingernail that were used with oil. Even Shapton says you can use their stones with oil.
Any problems with going back to water after an absorptive stone is used with oil?
I imagine it can be problematic for most oils but not impossible. I’ve used Ballistol on Waterstones and that can be rinsed out in water since it is a water soluble oil. Something like mineral oil would probably need a soak in some kind of detergent, or multiple soaks.
It’s definitely not a choice to make lightly but the “you’ll ruin the stone” narrative isn’t true from my experience.
Good example is Japan itself, if you watch a lot of videos of sharpening many shops use this kind of greenish yellow liquid in the honing baths, I managed to find it one time and it’s some kind of industrial cutting oil.
I wouldn't on a synthetic stone. It's not recommended. natural stones are different. But I agree with the above post that says its most likely not what you put on your stone that is causing the issue.
Japanese fluid is Duraron C560z. It’s a yellow water soluble cutting oil.
Once the oil has soaked into the middle there would be no getting it out. And it would keep rising to the surface. It would forever be an oil stone, for better or worse.
I once tried putting a synthetic into simple green to clean it. It dyed the stone green, and tried to eat the binder.
I once tried putting a synthetic into simple green to clean it. It dyed the stone green, and tried to eat the binder.
Shuddering at the idea of using oil on my beloved Shapton Glass stones.
If you think that water vs oil is an important issue in getting a proper edge on your synthetic Japanese water stones, well, it's not. It's something else. Technique, probably. Choice of stones, maybe.
If you think that water vs oil is an important issue in getting a proper edge on your synthetic Japanese water stones, well, it's not. It's something else. Technique, probably. Choice of stones, maybe.
What synth was this?!
I've done quite a lot of testing of this on all sorts of different stones, natural and synthetic. And pretty much exclusively have found oil to be better.
And if you clean a stone after using it, and don't bathe it in oil, then you can chop and change ime. If something's been used with oil previously it can make a small difference to the way that mud or slurry forms, but for razors you're never working with any particularly significant amount of slurry, so the difference will be unnoticeable.
The only things I wouldn't really do it with are high-end, soft and muddy jnats.
And if you clean a stone after using it, and don't bathe it in oil, then you can chop and change ime. If something's been used with oil previously it can make a small difference to the way that mud or slurry forms, but for razors you're never working with any particularly significant amount of slurry, so the difference will be unnoticeable.
The only things I wouldn't really do it with are high-end, soft and muddy jnats.
The white side of the Disco Hone.
Disco hone
Another day, another mystery rock. I bought this stone off ebay, thinking it was probably a coti. Once I got it looked more like it was some sort of synth, or reconstituted stone on a slate back. I gave it a soak in simple green and when I pulled it out the slate side was really weird. In the...
www.badgerandblade.com
I did it to a chosera 1k after accidentally getting oil on it. The C1k is already green of course but the simple green turned the top layer into mashed green potatoes. Luckily I was able to lap past the bad and still use it to this day so no long term damage.
Something to do with magnesia bonded stones perhaps then...?
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
I was actually thinking about breaking out my awesado and trying it with oil. After all I haven't used it with water in two years.
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
Yes.
Yes
The Japanese use an oily honing media with JNats, I’ve ‘de-oiled’ many of them more or less. The only reason to use oil on a JNat is that the stone isn’t fine enough, or more likely because that’s what so-and-so did.
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