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oil a Gillette adjustable safety razor?

nemo

Lunatic Fringe
Staff member
I never oil mine, just keep 'em clean and you'll be fine. It's not like a reciprocating or constantly spinning mechanism.

Plus most oils smell, do you want that?
 
For as long as I can remember, Dad had an old can of 3 in 1 oil on a shelf in his shop. I inherited it when he passed on, and always thought it was just a basic oil, somehow inferior to todays' modern oils. I build, collect and shoot muzzleloading rifles, and consensus is that 3 in 1 oil is unexcelled for lubricating flintlocks to produce quicker action than even the spendiest hi-tech modern oils.
I've also used it to lubricate a Sheraton and a couple of other razors to make them operate smoother. Besides, a 70+ year old oil is appropriate for the task.
 
For as long as I can remember, Dad had an old can of 3 in 1 oil on a shelf in his shop. I inherited it when he passed on, and always thought it was just a basic oil, somehow inferior to todays' modern oils. I build, collect and shoot muzzleloading rifles, and consensus is that 3 in 1 oil is unexcelled for lubricating flintlocks to produce quicker action than even the spendiest hi-tech modern oils.
I've also used it to lubricate a Sheraton and a couple of other razors to make them operate smoother. Besides, a 70+ year old oil is appropriate for the task.
3in1 is awesome. My dad swore by it, and now I do, too. I keep a can of it on hand and use for pretty much everything.... except razors.
It's amazing in door hinges, though. If you have any squeaky doors, do yourself a favor and get this oil.
 
I've had oil - made for firearms - gum up a clean 1911 pistol sitting in my safe. I took it out after sitting for a while just to re-lube it, and when I cleared it and pulled the trigger to lower the hammer, nothing happened because the "gun oil" had gummed up one of the safety components.

Anyway, like some others have said: if it ain't broke...
If it failed to function it wasn't clean. :) I clean before and apply 5W-30 motor oil. I have used CLP's which are hyped these days but the cleaning part can cancel the lubing part over time (safe queens/long term storage) and it can gum things up. After cleaning I lube internal components and contact areas with the motor oil and wipe down the whole firearm with a lightly oiled rag. Here's a great article: 5W-30 for firearms
 
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I'm not keen to use oil, though if I do, I think I might go with sewing machine oil, its very light, and obviously made for a machine. That said, I have a can of 3-in-1 oil in my tool chest, as my dad did, and probably his dad before him (its over a century old... one of those times where 'brand' has meaning). Anyway, I'm thinking I'm going to send my Slim off for a clean/polish/alignment check professionally, and I might as well toss in the Flare for the same. It's not like its something it will need every year. Depending on how well the Slim polishes up, I'll decide whether I'll plate it. It shines, but a bit dully, compared to the Flare and my Flare doesn't usually get soap build up much, and is easy to clean. The Slim gets build up quicker, and it seems to be a bit stubborn about coming off. I'm hoping a professional polish might be enough to cut down on that. If not, I'll probably plate.

Of course, little miss 'only keep what you use, no RAD allowed' has already been thinking about getting a third razor, to use, while the other two are off being cleaned. Not that that was the plan. Damn rabbit holes, they're all over the place.
 
I ALWAYS put 2-3 drops of Ballistol in my TTO razors after purchasing and cleaning them well with warm water and dish detergent.

Ballistol Makes my US razors behave like UK TTOs. So smooth.

I reapply a drop or two to the most used razors after a year or so
 

luvmysuper

My elbows leak
Staff member
Clean it.
Keep it clean.
You don't need oil or grease.
Oil and grease hold dirt and prevent it from being rinsed away.
It's not a high speed machine like an engine. It's not exposed to heat, pressure and rapid movement like a firearm.
Do you put oil in the keyway of your cars ignition?
No. Because it is a loose fit, slow moving device. Just like a razor.
 
I initially oiled my TTOs and Adjustables, then things got worse and sticky, now I just soak in heavy Dawn and hot water... oooooh, I just bought a small 6 gallon air compressor, I might need to soak a few razors... especially Black Beauties and then blow them out with compressed air to dry them. I was wondering what I was going to do this weekend--especially since I used the compressor to clear the fuel line in my wife's 65 Mustang and replace the fuel pump (hence the compressor purchase). I do need to find a way to need to fix something of hers that requires a variable Dremel...
 

luvmysuper

My elbows leak
Staff member
The definition of Lapping Compound is essentially an oil based product holding abrasive particles which is used to remove metal.

Since oil in your razor traps and holds dust, dirt and other debris - oil in your razor is essentially Lapping Compound.

If you have a razor that has worn through from the inside out, then I suggest one of two possibilities:

1. The razor has at some point been dropped or otherwise damaged so that alignment was off, creating wear.

2. Someone oiled the razor, causing dirt, dust and debris to collect and be trapped, creating impromptu lapping compound which wore through the razor.

Neither scenario will be improved by the addition of oil, and oil addition may speed up the wear process.

Wash your razor with soap and water and thoroughly rinse it out.. Keep it clean and don't drop it or force it and it will outlive you.

Or, oil it if it somehow makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside.
 
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I will beg to differ with some postings. The "squeaks" are most commonly at the retaining crimp on the shaft, and result from oxidation (cupric oxide, or aluminum oxide). Especially hard water (e.g., a life in Colorado, the Dakotas, etc.,) could result in some abrasive mineral deposits that would be persistent.

Cleaning is the start, all of the warm water/Dawn/Scrubbing Bubbles, etc., are excellent advice, and in extremis spend a few bucks for an ultrasonic cleaner.

An US cleaner will (eventually) remove any oxidation you may have fairly quickly, but you do have to be careful.

Whether soap & water, Scrubbing Bubble soaks, US, you will reach the point of either, "I got it..", or, "That's as good as it gets..." A drop of Ballistol, mineral oil, or silicone spray won't hurt anything.

I use Barbicide for it's surfactant action nightly, after each shave.

The only time I would worry about any sort of lapping action would be if I saw evidence of scaling around the seams, and I would try CLR, brushing, and moving the action, followed by rinses in standing water, to see what/how much washes out.
 
I used Wahl Clipper oil on my vintage adjustable. It squeecked when I closed the doors. A couple of drops down the top, a drop from the bottom and everything's running silky smooth. I did this like a year ago and haven't had any issues since.
 
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