Ray...
I don't want you to learn the hard way, so I'm going to help a bit. The drawing as it is shown will not work because of the varying distances from the cutting edge to the spine.
If you are going to have a swayback spine, the cutting edge needs a smile that matches. These two lines need to be parallel in order to hone the edge properly.
Now, you can have that shape spine with a straight cutting edge, but you'd have to make sure you had a ledge for honing that is parallel to the cutting edge for its entire length.
Good thing you abandoned the notion of a 3/8 thick blade. You'd need a forklift to pick it up. With that shape you now have, you could easily make it a 3/16 inch thick blade. I say that because of the required ledge you will need for effective honing. That makes the distance from the bottom of the swayback "ledge" area to the cutting edge much narrower than the distance from the edge to the upper arch of the spine. The best proportion for a cutting bevel, remember, is .25 times blade width to = the blade thickness.
If my words are too convoluted to understand, let me know and I'll draw up a diagram to clarify. You could always act like Seraphim, discount what I said, and cry about it after it doesn't work for you.
Just messin' with ya Seraphim...
You're offering a discount on the things you say?
