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Off on a New Adventure, Making blades - Updated 7/21

So I've found a fellow locally who can do some hardening for me. I've ordered some steel to cut blanks and just finished a basic blade design.
The design itself is an incorporation of a few different designs from which I've taken the features that I like and want to use. I am going to call this "The Typhoon" for it's it's waved effect spine, tail and full 1 inch blade. The oversized barber knotch also reminds me of a ships bow.

The only changes from this drawing is I've opted to go with a 1/4" material rather than a 3/8" material due to the blade size.
I plan on doing two different spine designs, a flat back and a diamond back style. I think these choices will allow me to do a bunch of different file patterns and effects. This will also allow for several different grinds from 1/4 hollow to a full on wedge. I also plan to do a shoulder-less grind verses a step grind.
I think this new adventure is going to be loads of fun. Thoughts?

I'll keep you all posted as the progress moves forward.

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Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Very interesting! I love and I mean I really do love a shoulderless blade! And I do like a barber notch and dn't think that is an unnecessary embellishment like many do. The swayback spine and the straight edge of course mean the spine will vary in thickness. I like it except for my preference for narrower blades. All my favorites are 5/8 or narrower. I would love to see more interest in custom 4/8 or 9/16, myself.
 
Ray...

I don't want you to learn the hard way, so I'm going to help a bit. The drawing as it is shown will not work because of the varying distances from the cutting edge to the spine.

If you are going to have a swayback spine, the cutting edge needs a smile that matches. These two lines need to be parallel in order to hone the edge properly.

Now, you can have that shape spine with a straight cutting edge, but you'd have to make sure you had a ledge for honing that is parallel to the cutting edge for its entire length.

Good thing you abandoned the notion of a 3/8 thick blade. You'd need a forklift to pick it up. With that shape you now have, you could easily make it a 3/16 inch thick blade. I say that because of the required ledge you will need for effective honing. That makes the distance from the bottom of the swayback "ledge" area to the cutting edge much narrower than the distance from the edge to the upper arch of the spine. The best proportion for a cutting bevel, remember, is .25 times blade width to = the blade thickness.

If my words are too convoluted to understand, let me know and I'll draw up a diagram to clarify. You could always act like Seraphim, discount what I said, and cry about it after it doesn't work for you. :laugh:

Just messin' with ya Seraphim...
 
So you plan on making all kinds of grinds and just want opinions on preferences for diamond or flat back?

I'd try them both, but for what it is worth, I'd go with diamond. It seems more ornate and like something you would have to go custom for.

On the other hand, the flat back looks more traditional, and we all know how people love their tradition around here.

I do have one quirky preference. If you plan on including barber's notches, I would recommend sticking with the flat back. However, that being said, if you really want to make something unique, you could throw down, and put an etched spine on a diamond back and include a barber's notch. You have umpteen billion razors, so it might not seem novel to you, but to me, it would be my first time seeing a diamond backed razor, with a barber's notch. Am I wrong in identifying such a design as rare?
 
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Thanks Bill, I actually had that under consideration when I worked this out.
This is why I kicked the point up on the tip and made the heel a little deeper.
The grind line I showed is actually off a bit. The other reason for such a wide blade is to allow for a smile to be ground in if my thought does not work out.
No doubt you've been through this before. Like I said this is all new to me so it will be a little trial and error.
I've also considered softening the wave on the spine (swayback) to see if that will work.
I certainly welcome your expert knowledge always.
The best proportion for a cutting bevel, remember, is .25 times blade width to = the blade thickness.
....Great info.

Slash you are correct, the spine will very in thickness. I didn't draw that in on the top view but it well get wider at the end of the grind to the pin area and taper back again. I will cut one down to 5/8 and see how it works out.

Thanks guys....Keep your fingers crossed.

I think a Diamond back notched swayback would be way cool.

I am surprised no one mentioned the height of the pin location compared to the spine, yes the scales will need to be a dog leg design and one will be going into the natural curve of a wart hog tusk I have.

No Rich, the laser is just fine and cranking away as I type.
 
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