What's new

Occasional Use Chain Saw

Rhody

I'm a Lumberjack.
Rent one. Let someone else own it, sharpen it.
this is what i did. I have a lotof tools but have no business owning or probably using a chain saw .But i rented an electric to cut a small tree with a max of 6-8" branches it was fantastic then i accidentally discovered how it destroyed vines pricker bushes and brush until it snagged and the chain came off. Something i didnt even anticipate during my frenzy i felt like a god clearing the landat will but having no clue how to reset the chain and recognized my limitations i took it back to the rental place of course he had a laugh at my expense
 
I stick with Stihl so far, I’ve only actually owned one. I guess I grew fond of them from my days clearing lots. The Stihl ones the company had were the only ones that ran right. I use mine about twice a year.

My other chainsaw is an old 70s Remington which is retired now but still runs fine and sounds like a dirt bike taking off. It lacks the uh... any and all safety features of the newer saws.
 
Last edited:
this is what i did. I have a lotof tools but have no business owning or probably using a chain saw .But i rented an electric to cut a small tree with a max of 6-8" branches it was fantastic then i accidentally discovered how it destroyed vines pricker bushes and brush until it snagged and the chain came off. Something i didnt even anticipate during my frenzy i felt like a god clearing the landat will but having no clue how to reset the chain and recognized my limitations i took it back to the rental place of course he had a laugh at my expense
Lol
 

Flintstone65

Imagining solutions for imaginary problems
This thread may be "dead", but I thought I'd throw my 2-cents in. By way of a quick backstory, I had no experience with chainsaws, but needed to sporadically clear fallen softwoods (Pines) and hardwoods (Oak and Sweet Gum) as well as take down exotic invasive species (Chinese Tallow and Chinese Privet). I picked up the Ego 16 inch chainsaw with lithium battery and could not be happier. I've had it for 18 months and have dropped and/or limbed over 3 dozen trees -- some as large a 20 inches in diameter. The only fluid it needs is bar oil -- I use Canola/Vegetable oil from the big box stores, works as well as traditional bar oil and I prefer it for myself and the environment. There is no pulling of the cord, no carburetor, it's quieter than a gas engine, no gas or oil. If you're worried about the battery dying out before the job is done, that has happened to me 1 out of 10 uses -- usually I physically give out before the battery, but you may be in better shape than me -- I did go on and buy a spare battery given that I'm using the chainsaw more and more when I go out. A few suggestions if you go this route and are not a skilled sawyer:
  1. Get an extra bar and chain -- I used amazon and the bar is $30 and the chain is $11. Sometimes when I'm working with a big tree I judge the fall or compression wrong and the bar gets pinched by the tree. It's really easy to pop the saw body from the stuck bar and chain, put on a new bar and chain and finish the job and free up your pinched equipment. I've only damaged one bar from inexperience, and that was after some really stupid mistakes.
  2. The chains are relatively cheap ($10 to $15), but I purchased a cheapy chain sharpener from HF, it's really not difficult or time consuming.
  3. I purchased my at home depot -- ordered online and delivered free to store for pickup. You can probably save a few bucks ordering from amazon, but I wanted an easy return if it turned out to be junk.
I'm happy to answer questions on this chainsaw (or it's sibling the batter operated mower). I'm not great with small (or large) gas-powered engines, so lithium-powered stuff has been perfect for me.
 
AB02D106-F901-4B0C-8C19-F3F048E59C9D.jpeg
Bought an Echo (thinking it’s a CS-490) about 3 years ago. Hasn’t given me a bit of trouble. I live in the middle of the woods; there is nothing this saw has not conquered. As far as long term storage..
Ethanol free gas, Echo 2-stroke oil, Sea Foam additive. Pre-mix will last for more than a year. Really. Although it is a great chainsaw, more often than not, I choose to go old school.
 
I bought the 40V Lithium Lynxx at Harbor Freight for a tree removal project in my front yard. I have a few trees but don't have the need for a gas powered saw. Rental is a bit thin right around here, so I went the battery powered route. I ended up buying the string trimmer and hedge trimmers and the pole saw over the next months, so extra batteries is not a problem. I've found it a good saw. I'm sure it wouldn't be for all day cutting, day after day, but for what I need, it is perfect. Note that after a freak spring snow storm last year knocked down limbs from all our trees, this saw did quite well. Now, if they would just build a lawn mower!
 
depends on what you're cutting I guess. my mom has an electric saw that she'd try to go after hardwoods, to include cedar, if only for limbing. it didn't/doesn't have the power or battery life to be worthwhile on some acres. I'd bring my gas saw and get it done.

an occasional use gas saw, I'd recommend Stihl MS series. run it dry and don't store it with gas, and avoid ethanol if at all possible.
 
Ok resurrected so...

Needed something light and simpe for around the claim, instead of busting out the 044 for occasional clean up. Came down to a Stihl MS261CM or a Husky 550XP.

Both great saws, ended up with the Stihl. Felt better in the hand and more important the repairman preferred it. That is, they hardly ever had one in the shop.
 
Last edited:
Ok resurrected so...

Needed something light and simpe for around the claim, instead of busting out the 044 for occasional clean up. Came down to a Stihl MS261CM or a Husky 550XP.

Both great saws, ended up with the Stihl. Felt better in the hand and more important the repairman preferred it. That is, they hardly ever had one in the shop.
Nice Stihl
 
Canola oil is NOT the same as bar oil. I have run it in several of my saws. If you're going to use the saw daily or weekly, it's a decent biodegradable substitute. On the other hand, if the saw sits more than it runs, the chain is likely to be glued into the bar the next time you need it. This has been my experience on several saws, including a 7hp Husqvarna. I had to remove the bar/chain, spray it down with carb cleaner, and then fight the chain out of the bar, after which I spent more time cleaning the groove and relubing the nose sprocket than I did cutting wood. I will still run canola oil, but the last tank of oil I run for the day is regular bar oil.
 

Flintstone65

Imagining solutions for imaginary problems
Canola oil is NOT the same as bar oil. I have run it in several of my saws. If you're going to use the saw daily or weekly, it's a decent biodegradable substitute. On the other hand, if the saw sits more than it runs, the chain is likely to be glued into the bar the next time you need it. This has been my experience on several saws, including a 7hp Husqvarna. I had to remove the bar/chain, spray it down with carb cleaner, and then fight the chain out of the bar, after which I spent more time cleaning the groove and relubing the nose sprocket than I did cutting wood. I will still run canola oil, but the last tank of oil I run for the day is regular bar oil.
Wow, thanks for this!!! I haven't had an issue with canola yet, but my saw hasn't sat for more than a week or two, so I'll use your approach of running the last tank of the day with bar oil....especially when I know the saw will be sitting idle for a good long while.
 

nortac

"Can't Raise an Eyebrow"
I'm in the gas Stilh or Husky camp for gas powered saws. Had a cheap Homelite waay back in the day, total dud after a couple years of frustrating use, threw it away. But for lighter pruning chores, up to 4-6 inches, I grab my DeWalt reciprocating saw and use a Bosch pruning blade. Run time is not great with just an 18v battery, but for light work it is so much easier than lugging even a small gas power saw around the property.
 
I got a reconned Husky 435 a few years ago for a 110 bucks Excellent power, lightweight, easy to start once the carb is adjusted. Took a bunch of trees down with it and used it for clean up after a few big storms. I havent used it in awhile maybe 2 years, I have cans of truefuel ready to go should I need to use it asap
 
This thread may be "dead", but I thought I'd throw my 2-cents in. By way of a quick backstory, I had no experience with chainsaws, but needed to sporadically clear fallen softwoods (Pines) and hardwoods (Oak and Sweet Gum) as well as take down exotic invasive species (Chinese Tallow and Chinese Privet). I picked up the Ego 16 inch chainsaw with lithium battery and could not be happier. I've had it for 18 months and have dropped and/or limbed over 3 dozen trees -- some as large a 20 inches in diameter. The only fluid it needs is bar oil -- I use Canola/Vegetable oil from the big box stores, works as well as traditional bar oil and I prefer it for myself and the environment. There is no pulling of the cord, no carburetor, it's quieter than a gas engine, no gas or oil. If you're worried about the battery dying out before the job is done, that has happened to me 1 out of 10 uses -- usually I physically give out before the battery, but you may be in better shape than me -- I did go on and buy a spare battery given that I'm using the chainsaw more and more when I go out. A few suggestions if you go this route and are not a skilled sawyer:
  1. Get an extra bar and chain -- I used amazon and the bar is $30 and the chain is $11. Sometimes when I'm working with a big tree I judge the fall or compression wrong and the bar gets pinched by the tree. It's really easy to pop the saw body from the stuck bar and chain, put on a new bar and chain and finish the job and free up your pinched equipment. I've only damaged one bar from inexperience, and that was after some really stupid mistakes.
  2. The chains are relatively cheap ($10 to $15), but I purchased a cheapy chain sharpener from HF, it's really not difficult or time consuming.
  3. I purchased my at home depot -- ordered online and delivered free to store for pickup. You can probably save a few bucks ordering from amazon, but I wanted an easy return if it turned out to be junk.
I'm happy to answer questions on this chainsaw (or it's sibling the batter operated mower). I'm not great with small (or large) gas-powered engines, so lithium-powered stuff has been perfect for me.

I doubt that canola oil is a good substitute for proper bar and chain oil. Chain oil is formulated very thick, viscous and tacky so it will not be thrown off along with good lubricating properties. Canola oil is simply cooking oil, and those other attributes are probably minor. I agree with the extra chain, and I keep 5-6 on hand most of the time. Extra bar, no, the original bar on my Stihl 046 lasted over 20 years and probably could have gone a lot longer but was showing some signs of wear so I went ahead and replaced it.

Whatever you do, buy quality
 

Toothpick

Needs milk and a bidet!
Staff member
I’ve got two.

Poulan 14” and Poulan Pro 18”

5E0AB2FD-1D5C-49D8-A010-C0F53E4E78DA.jpeg DD2DE9D3-D91B-4C5D-BD56-A35EA97B3F5D.jpeg

2 stroke so they require oil/gas mix. Which is a PITB, but for occasional use you can just buy the can that is pre-mixed.

What I don’t like about them - they drink bar & chain oil like crazy. Plus it leaks a bit after use. They gunk up and won’t start after some serious use. I have to take the bar/chain off and clean out around the spindle and oil delivery thingy then reassemble. The Poulan Pro runs a lot better than the other one though.

These are the first saws I ever owned so I don’t know that a more high end brand would be any better. But I’d probably not buy Poulan again.
 
I’ve got two.

Poulan 14” and Poulan Pro 18”

View attachment 906920 View attachment 906921

2 stroke so they require oil/gas mix. Which is a PITB, but for occasional use you can just buy the can that is pre-mixed.

What I don’t like about them - they drink bar & chain oil like crazy. Plus it leaks a bit after use. They gunk up and won’t start after some serious use. I have to take the bar/chain off and clean out around the spindle and oil delivery thingy then reassemble. The Poulan Pro runs a lot better than the other one though.

These are the first saws I ever owned so I don’t know that a more high end brand would be any better. But I’d probably not buy Poulan again.
i have owned a poulan 3400 since 1982 and cut 15 loads( 3/4 ton pick up ) each year i have replaced bars, chains, and carburetors , but it is still running best saw ever buy good and do it only once.
 
i have owned a poulan 3400 since 1982 and cut 15 loads( 3/4 ton pick up ) each year i have replaced bars, chains, and carburetors , but it is still running best saw ever buy good and do it only once.

I don't think the new Poulans are quite was they used to be. I remember when I was a teen in the 80's seeing a Poulan commercial was quite the norm.
 
The new Poulans are more or less disposable saws. I believe its a coin toss on whether you get a good one from the start. Based on the large number of "factory reconditioned" ones on the market, it looks like a lot of new ones are sent back with problems.

With that said, I bought a factory reconditioned Poulan leaf blower for about 2/3's the cost of a new one. I have had it around ten years and have had zero problems.
 
Canola oil isn't as tacky as bar oil, but I haven't noticed any more chain stretch or bar wear from using it. Adding a little bit of slick 50 will make it sticky like normal bar oil. Carrying a spare bar isn't a bad idea, particularly if you only have one saw. It's a lot easier to take the bar off, put on the spare, and then cut the first bar out of the bind than it is use cut it out with an axe....easier still to use wedges to keep the kerf open so it doesn't get pinched in the first place. Then again, things don't always go to plan.

Most of the new poulans are disposable saws. None of the new poulans are the equal of what carried the Poulan name 50 years ago....but then few products are.
 
Canola oil isn't as tacky as bar oil, but I haven't noticed any more chain stretch or bar wear from using it. Adding a little bit of slick 50 will make it sticky like normal bar oil. Carrying a spare bar isn't a bad idea, particularly if you only have one saw. It's a lot easier to take the bar off, put on the spare, and then cut the first bar out of the bind than it is use cut it out with an axe....easier still to use wedges to keep the kerf open so it doesn't get pinched in the first place. Then again, things don't always go to plan.

Most of the new poulans are disposable saws. None of the new poulans are the equal of what carried the Poulan name 50 years ago....but then few products are.

Edit: one thing to be mindful of if using an electric chainsaw---chainsaw chaps do not protect against them as they do with a gas saw.
 
Top Bottom