I got a ryobi work light/ short stand spot light that throws crazy reflections on a bevel. I don't even use glass half the time with it if it's daytime.
Observing the edge under a scope
- Thread starter kayvee
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I change the angle of the magnifying glass light,
and the white plastic piece softens the light, allowing me to clearly see the edge state.
and the white plastic piece softens the light, allowing me to clearly see the edge state.
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- #63
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- #64
Modify it yourself, or use the white paper.
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- #66
I just did it. It worked better when I gave a little gap between the LED and the paper. Initially, I had taped the paper right next to the LED and it didn't work so well.
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- #67
An update on the honing...
I did one set per the above. Frankly, my acrylic base wasn't very stable and kept moving. It's just not heavy enough to be used as a bench hone. I saw under the scope that I wasn't able get the entire bevel.
I'm going to need to jerry-rig something - maybe glue some rubber feet or some such. I'm going to be busy till Friday to do what's needed. More to come either Friday or over the weekend.
I did one set per the above. Frankly, my acrylic base wasn't very stable and kept moving. It's just not heavy enough to be used as a bench hone. I saw under the scope that I wasn't able get the entire bevel.
I'm going to need to jerry-rig something - maybe glue some rubber feet or some such. I'm going to be busy till Friday to do what's needed. More to come either Friday or over the weekend.
I hone on a Steelex rubber stone holder, ($15-20) it grips bench and the stone or substrate, although I do not tighten it to the stone. The holder sits on a plastic food tray, $1, (dollar store). The tray catches all the water and swarf runoff.
You can also shim the tray to make it level with 2 pieces of yoga mat to keep the water and slurry from running off the stone.
I have in the past honed on a block of wood 1X4 with a piece of rubber drawer liner, another stone with a rubber drawer liner and on a couple pieces of yoga mat cut to 8X3 and hone on the edge of the bench.
Lots of solutions, if you just want to stabilize it, yoga matt or rubber drawer liner works well.
On cutting board on a granite counter top, I often use a wet paper towel, you might give that a try.
You can also shim the tray to make it level with 2 pieces of yoga mat to keep the water and slurry from running off the stone.
I have in the past honed on a block of wood 1X4 with a piece of rubber drawer liner, another stone with a rubber drawer liner and on a couple pieces of yoga mat cut to 8X3 and hone on the edge of the bench.
Lots of solutions, if you just want to stabilize it, yoga matt or rubber drawer liner works well.
On cutting board on a granite counter top, I often use a wet paper towel, you might give that a try.
Spray a board with flex seal and use that as a base. If it still wiggles get some 3m spray adhesive(it'll hold a t-shirt still when pushing a squeegee across it to screen print) to lay down on the board before you put your acrylic on it. That should hold it snug, but temporarily.
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- #70
I was able to use a wet paper towel to hold the substrate - worked reasonably well to hold for the work on 3um film.
Under the magnifying glass it appeared that most of the scratches went away on the concave side but I could still see scratches on the convex side.
However, I could see lots of scratches on both sides under the scope. I’ll need to post pictures later.
Just for kicks, I tried shaving with the razor after 40/50 laps on the strop. I was able to complete my shave but it wasn’t super comfortable.
Should I use pressure at all with the 3um film?
Under the magnifying glass it appeared that most of the scratches went away on the concave side but I could still see scratches on the convex side.
However, I could see lots of scratches on both sides under the scope. I’ll need to post pictures later.
Just for kicks, I tried shaving with the razor after 40/50 laps on the strop. I was able to complete my shave but it wasn’t super comfortable.
Should I use pressure at all with the 3um film?
When removing bevel-setting stria I start with circles with a bit of pressure, 20 on each side will cut the stria down quickly. Circles introduce abrasives at an angle to the tops of the stria and cut more quickly than strokes in the same direction as the stria.
Then a set of Axe Method 20,10,5, 3,2,1 with pressure on the 20 and 10 laps and lite pressure on the 5-1 laps. Take a good look at the bevel and if needed do another set.
I start with pressure on the first strokes and lighten up on the final strokes on all grits. You will start with more pressure on the bevel setter, but much lighter pressure on the finishing grit.
How much pressure is something you will just need to figure out. If you are not seeing results, add a bit of pressure, if you have taped the spine, you will do no damage. If not using tape, you can trash a razor in a hurry.
Then a set of Axe Method 20,10,5, 3,2,1 with pressure on the 20 and 10 laps and lite pressure on the 5-1 laps. Take a good look at the bevel and if needed do another set.
I start with pressure on the first strokes and lighten up on the final strokes on all grits. You will start with more pressure on the bevel setter, but much lighter pressure on the finishing grit.
How much pressure is something you will just need to figure out. If you are not seeing results, add a bit of pressure, if you have taped the spine, you will do no damage. If not using tape, you can trash a razor in a hurry.
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- #72
You could cut one 1" wide. Narrow stones help a lot when trying to do specific work on a certain spot. I don't know anything about film though.
A narrow stone/plate can help. However, you will then be riding two rails along each side of the stone. When you are using a rolling x stroke you are also mostly using a small section of the stone as you move over the edge, which needs to be chamfered.
A slight smile in the blade can also make it easier to get good contact along the bevel.
A convex stone also works well.
I've got a thuri that is convex on one side that I've never tried. I've used the flat side but never the other.
You can try and use the convex side as a step before the flat side. This might give you a marginal improvement. Be careful, you may like it
I'm not opposed to doing the opposite of what everyone else likes. I wouldn't be a Belgian blue fanatic otherwise. I intend to try it, just hadn't got there. I think it came from superior shave, little db in a celebrated water hone box that is darker than my others I've had.You can try and use the convex side as a step before the flat side. This might give you a marginal improvement. Be careful, you may like it
I’m struggling to make contact between the bevel and the film on the concave side near the heel.
Lay the razor on a flat stone and see how much warp there is at the edge, a little more that the amount of warp is how much you will need to drop the heel. Probably not much.
Ink both bevels, on the convex side, start with the heel forward with a straight stroke with light pressure, about halfway up or down the stone angle the stroke so the heel falls off the stone.
Angle your razor stroke so that once the heel falls off, halfway up the stone, you hone at least half of the razor in the distance from halfway to the end of the stone. You want the hollow to spend some time on the grit.
You are using the 1-inch of stone of film near the edge to hone. You can even draw a pencil line 1 inch from the edge to force you to concentrate on allowing the heel to fall off and hone near the edge. Ink will tell you when you are honing the hollow.
It should not take much pressure or heel drop, make sure the heel does not fall off until the halfway point, so the heel gets honed fully. The higher the grit the less pressure and drop of the heel you will need.
Once you have figured out the amount of drop and pressure then do, long smooth strokes allowing the heel to fall off about 1 inch from the start and hone all the way to the toe with a lite smooth stroke to blend the whole edge.
Here again Ink on the bevel will show you if you are honing the whole edge.
Lay the razor on a flat stone and see how much warp there is at the edge, a little more that the amount of warp is how much you will need to drop the heel. Probably not much.
Ink both bevels, on the convex side, start with the heel forward with a straight stroke with light pressure, about halfway up or down the stone angle the stroke so the heel falls off the stone.
Angle your razor stroke so that once the heel falls off, halfway up the stone, you hone at least half of the razor in the distance from halfway to the end of the stone. You want the hollow to spend some time on the grit.
You are using the 1-inch of stone of film near the edge to hone. You can even draw a pencil line 1 inch from the edge to force you to concentrate on allowing the heel to fall off and hone near the edge. Ink will tell you when you are honing the hollow.
It should not take much pressure or heel drop, make sure the heel does not fall off until the halfway point, so the heel gets honed fully. The higher the grit the less pressure and drop of the heel you will need.
Once you have figured out the amount of drop and pressure then do, long smooth strokes allowing the heel to fall off about 1 inch from the start and hone all the way to the toe with a lite smooth stroke to blend the whole edge.
Here again Ink on the bevel will show you if you are honing the whole edge.
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- #79
I think the problem is with pressure. I'm ripping up the edges of the film with the pressure I'm using trying to make contact.
The convex part barely touches the film when doing circles. I'm uploading these current state pictures for documenting where I stand. The steps you mention above are similar to what I did on the 1.5k. I'll use the pencil trick to force myself to think about it.
These are from other parts of the razor
This is on the concave side near the center
And this is the part near the heel on the concave side
The convex part barely touches the film when doing circles. I'm uploading these current state pictures for documenting where I stand. The steps you mention above are similar to what I did on the 1.5k. I'll use the pencil trick to force myself to think about it.
These are from other parts of the razor
This is on the concave side near the center
And this is the part near the heel on the concave side
I always wipe the blade thoroughly between grits. I try to remember to rinse the blade between grits. I sometimes forget to rinse. Not sure if it does or does not make a difference to rinse. My recommendation is to rinse.
When setting bevels, I often hone to 12k with synthetics to make sure that each grit has removed the previous grit's scratches - because I find synthetics leave more consistent scratch patterns. Then after a shave or two, I go to the naturals. But that's me.
When setting bevels, I often hone to 12k with synthetics to make sure that each grit has removed the previous grit's scratches - because I find synthetics leave more consistent scratch patterns. Then after a shave or two, I go to the naturals. But that's me.
