Observations of a HD

[Mambo Dave]

I finally received my HD and have used it.

Two things came to mind when first examining it:

#1.) The machining is passable and it works, but nothing completely stands out as what I could look with glee and state to myself "Now That is German machining / engineering!"

That, in itself, isn't distressing at all though. I'd say the one thing I'm not totally happy with was:

#2.) Despite threading the top's post over 2 centimeters up (haven't measured it, and am not at home at the moment - but I'd say it may be threaded over an inch), without a blade in it the (or MY) Merkur HD only turns a total of 1 3/4 turns to be tight after the initial engagement. I haven't even tested how much less it turns with a blade in it.

So only the first ... I'm going to guess ... 15% or 20% of the threads are used, over and over again, despite the rod being threaded much farther up?

Of course this has its good side, too - changing a blade is that much faster ... though, to be honest, in the grand scheme of time-intensive things that wet-shaving entails I just don't see the use of so few threads as a plus in any way, shape or form. it may have only been a $30 item, but for what it is the HD could at least have delivered in the 'using more threads' department for long-term solidness.

Sure, ok, no-one has probably even screwed-up their threads on an HD yet... but I still don't like it.

Shaving-wise, the razor seems great.

 

[heirkb]

It's a good little razor. I passed mine on long ago when I encountered vintage Gillettes. Now I'm looking to try a slant...

 

[vitaman]

Shaving-wise, the razor seems great.


And?

 

[dpm802]

Shaving-wise, the razor seems great.

That's all that counts.

Granted, its not engineered the way a Leica camera would be ... but what do you expect for a mass-produced $30 item?

Many people have commented on Merkur HD not being a finely finished precision instrument ... remember that the HD is at the low-end of their scale, and their high-end razors like Progress and Futur do have more of a quality feel to them.

Rumors have it that Merkur is re-tooling their factory to correct many of the QA problems that they have. No word on when these new razors will be available, but when they do, you can expect a long waiting list while present Merkur owners (including Me) replace their current rotation, followed by a flood of old (not vintage) Merkurs to hit the BST, PIF and eBay markets at ridiculously low prices.

In any case, I'm not sure what we gain by analyzing the thread efficiency and counting the turns to tighten and change a blade ... as the old saying goes, "If it works, don't fix it."

 

[Jarmo P]

You can test how much the threads are used by fastening the cap first. Then hold the razor with the TTO knob up and rotate the razor handle/guard part until the head cap falls on the table.

My 34C does 2.5 turns while my 34G needs only 1.4 rotations.

My golden Merkur HD is a shiny instrument, but the threads are as the OP told, used only in the end of the head cap rod. It has also this thing that in the one corner end the head cap goes further than the guard end, thus perhaps making it not so optimal to shave under the nose. In praxis I have not noticed any problems.

I believe my chrome HD is from the older casting mold and the golden one from the newer, and the golden one being a slightly more aggressive razor. Well, they both shave better than other razors I have.

 

[Mambo Dave]

Interesting that they have been using different molds & changing the aggressiveness of the line with the new mold.

As far as it being a mass-produced item, that explanation falls short of explaining why they go through the trouble to thread the rod so far up, yet only engage so little of it. I'd just like to know what they were thinking when they designed it that way, and left it that way (there is an extra cost and time factor for machining the threads).

Ok, so some of you collector's have got my attention now - what one model of older Gillette should I look for tht would be comparable to a HD in ease of use, balance, etc, but be better in the engineering category? I read those Gillettes are still being used to shave with this many years later... and while a simple change would probably have put the Merkur HD in the same field, I've got to admit I'm always going to be thinking about those few threads I'm actually using. I don't know why.

 

[polod]

Yeah, I'd like the TTO knob to thread another rotation before the top cap sits firmly in place.

 

[Jarmo P]

Me too Polod. My first razor was the 34C and I needed a backup since I like it so much. The golden one is a great shaver too, but with a blade how much longer to trust them threads not wear out, the threads on the cap rod?

I think it was a one fine question from our original poster. Pisses me off anyways to think I have only just a little bit more than a turn with a blade to fasten my razor.

 

[cooncatbob]

The custom slant handle I'm making threads in a full 4 and 1 half turns, which at 32 TPI would be 9/64ths.

 

[tlanning]

The custom slant handle I'm making threads in a full 4 and 1 half turns, which at 32 TPI would be 9/64ths.

AAAA. but from what I've seen you are a Fine Craftman which has great pride in his work

 

[pmast]

I have had two HD razors, each took about 1 1/2 to 2 full turns to tighten down. So far, they have held the blade in place for shaving which is all I have used them for. I'm not sure they really need to be strong enough to suspend a man from an iron girder.

 

[VR6ofpain]

I always just rotate the knob counterclockwise till the top cap falls down into the opening. At that point I start tightening. This seems to ensure no issues with cross-threading.

 

[Fairway Ray]

All I know is I have 4 vintage Gillette's(2 SS's, new, and tech) and an HD. If the Merkur falls apart, I'll buy a new one. The HD gives me the closest shave and most consistent shave of the bunch. I have a Slim and a Fatboy on the way to see if an adjustable can give me a closer shave. YMMV

 

[Jarmo P]

I always just rotate the knob counterclockwise till the top cap falls down into the opening. At that point I start tightening. This seems to ensure no issues with cross-threading.
__________________

You should really load your razor though upside down though. Put the cap on the table and quide the blade to it. Lower the handle down and tighten it. My gold HD does not need any pushing down, its own weight makes the threads connect. Just a friendly hint

 

[GarageBoy]

I'd pay an extra $20 for the HD not to feel like a $5 casting

 

[Nils]

One of the advantages of living in the country of origin: one just goes to the shop and examines the razor before buying it!
The quality of my HD is superb, no faults at all. Same goes for my slant.

 

[Mambo Dave]

I'd pay an extra $20 for the HD not to feel like a $5 casting

LOL, that's about all I was trying to say.