Not Quite Getting the Shave I Want

[jbasl]

Ok I've been wetshaving for maybe a month and only recently with a badger brush and quality cream. I have yet to get a bbs shave all over my face. Today I got the lather I wanted using a tutorial on this forum (although I got less lather, maybe because of a smaller brush?). I also used the four pass technique that someone wrote up on another part of the forum. I got a really really good shave with only a little irritation (this is because I tend to shave a spot I just shaved because I feel I missed something...bad habit). I have no redness and my face is feeling good with bbs in some areas. I'm pretty careful with the blade angle, though I need to work on this.

My worry is the following. I could get bbs shaves with my Mach 3 or that new fusion one, with the following caveat: I had to wait four days to shave to let my hair grow a little and leave my face alone. Then I could do a two pass shave and have bbs. The shave was never comfortable and because I like a smooth face I hate waiting four days to shave. I'm not even considering switching back, I love the feel of my face with the new products and I can shave every day even with three passes (all I had attempted til today) with no irritation.

What I'm wondering has anyone had an experience where they have to let their facial hair grow a little and leave their face alone for a few days to get the perfect shave? Maybe I could try a single pass, N-S, for three days then a four pass on the fourth day. This is not desirable as I am coming to really enjoy my thirty minutes of shaving and I don't think I could give it up for a day...and I'd rather not shorten my shave (never thought I'd say that). Other possibilities might be the blades I"m using? I think my face can handle an aggressive blade but won't know til I get my sample pack. In any case, I was hoping maybe some of you had some suggestions. Or do people's past experience suggest that with more practice with blade angle, I'll get there sooner or later?

Thanks for the help (in advance),

John

 

[mrob]

Good post!

I think you'll find that lots of guys have more successful shaves when they have a day or so of growth built up. I'm not sure about the physics of it all, but it seems to help to have more stubble to work with.

Anyone know why, or care to guess?

 

[jbasl]

I was afraid of hearing that. My facial hair grows slower than most so maybe I'll need to try shaving every other day. I'll wait for more people to offer suggestions, but you have sort of confirmed my hypothesis. Maybe I'll just lather up in the morning and wipe my face with my finger to get my shave fix on off days...I'm kidding...but only half.

 

[Jim]

John

It may be that you are over analyzing this- it seems to me that you are doing OK. If I am correct you said that you love the way wet shaving made your face feel. You also said that you made the mistake of going over the same spot again. You also said that you need to work on your blade angle, that your lather was not to creamy, My point is if any one of these thing is not right you will not get the elusive bbs shave.
Until you get the lather, blade angle and familiarity with your face down pat, I would not make more than 1 or at most 2 passes, your face will thank you and in the long run you will have better results, post up what gear you are using and lathering in etc,
Jim

 

[jbasl]

You could be right. Although today I did get the lather that I wanted just in a lesser amount than I had seen in the tutorial (probably due to brush size). The only reason I worry that it might be the waiting period rather than my technique is because of my experience with the other razors. I will however take your advice and try to work out the technical details of my shave before trying to take a break from shaving for a day. My rig is as below:

Merkur HD
C&E Best Badger
Taylor's cream
T&H after shave balm.

 

[Jim]

You could be right. Although today I did get the lather that I wanted just in a lesser amount than I had seen in the tutorial (probably due to brush size). The only reason I worry that it might be the waiting period rather than my technique is because of my experience with the other razors. I will however take your advice and try to work out the technical details of my shave before trying to take a break from shaving for a day. My rig is as below:

Merkur HD
C&E Best Badger
Taylor's cream
T&H after shave balm.

John looks like you are pretty well set up, Some men find a preshave oil can be helpful. what blades are you using?

Jim

 

[jbasl]

I'm using Merkur blades and am ordering a sample pack of the usual suspects as far as blades go.

I'm planning to pick up some proraso pre shave as soon as I can get to the local target.

 

[Jim]

Excellent!

Hang in-

Jim

 

[Scotto]

It can take a long time to really understand your face and how to shave with a DE to get BBS every time. Remember that things like the four pass are fine, but ultimately will have to be adapted to your particulars. A couple of hints:

1. In the end, you will have to master against-the-grain shaving. Take it slow and easy and give yourself a chance to learn
2. Divide and conquer. Work on an area at a time over a period of days, trying things until you get it how you like, while not worrying too much about the rest of your face. Once you get that down, move to to the next area and repeat. Trying to nail everything at once can be very frustrating. For instance, if your chin is your most problematic area, work on your techniques there as part of your normal shave routine, trying out different passes, angles, etc.
3. Prep, prep, and more prep. This is the single most valuable lesson you can learn

I am not sure about the "let it grow out" idea. I don't think it matters (though it may give the perception of being closer since you were more stubbly before, but as usual YMMV.

 

[jbasl]

Thanks.

For against the grain shaving, how fast should the stroke be (and in general for tha matter)?

Today was my first divided shave, I broke my face into five areas and shaved according to some advice I found in these forums.

 

[rikrdo]

Help Me, Rhonda !!


BBS??

 

[jbasl]

Baby butt smooth...its a terrible term and I don't really like using it...but I've found that on the forums its the term that picks out the closest possible shave (no stubble at all).

rkrdo...didn't you post an ad trying to sell or trade a straight razor? Is that still available? I pm'd you.

 

[jmhUT]

Good post!

I think you'll find that lots of guys have more successful shaves when they have a day or so of growth built up. I'm not sure about the physics of it all, but it seems to help to have more stubble to work with.

Anyone know why, or care to guess?

My suspicion is that the the best shaves come after a break for two reasons:
1) Whatever damage was done by the previous shave has fully healed
2) Skipping a day or two allows more sebum to coat the hair and skin. Also, the longer hairs hold more water from the beard prep and are easier to cut.

Whatever the reason I think there can be little doubt that the best shaves do, in fact, come after a break. As much as now enjoy shaving I would prefer to only do it every other day. As my technique improves however the daily shave does not bother me.
Cheers,
Jeff

 

[Scotto]

My suspicion is that the the best shaves come after a break for two reasons:
1) Whatever damage was done by the previous shave has fully healed
2) Skipping a day or two allows more sebum to coat the hair and skin. Also, the longer hairs hold more water from the beard prep and are easier to cut.

Whatever the reason I think there can be little doubt that the best shaves do, in fact, come after a break. As much as now enjoy shaving I would prefer to only do it every other day. As my technique improves however the daily shave does not bother me.
Cheers,
Jeff

Just for clarity, I would modify your statement to say for you, this is the case. For many others, it is not. I don't want to create the illusion this is a universal truth, so new folks don't get confused.

 

[Justso]

Thanks.

For against the grain shaving, how fast should the stroke be (and in general for tha matter)?

That totally depends on your technique. I prefer short deliberate passes. There's no hard & fast rule for how fast the stroke should be. It's up to you.
Also, beware of this: if you develop your technique to fast long strokes, be sure you are using a fresh blade or one that isn't dull yet. That's a recipe for razor burn & bumps.

 

[Tito]

[*]Prep, prep, and more prep. This is the single most valuable lesson you can learn

Hey Scotto,

Could you expand further on the prep? I could use some additional info here I'm sure.

Thanks

 

[jmhUT]

Just for clarity, I would modify your statement to say for you, this is the case. For many others, it is not. I don't want to create the illusion this is a universal truth, so new folks don't get confused.

Yes, that is an appropriate edit. A subjective process like this holds few, if any, absolutes.

 

[jbasl]

I would also like to hear some prep tips. My current prep is as follows:

Microwave a large tea mug with water for 3 minutes
Soak my brush in it while I take a hot shower
Wash and use hair conditioner on my beard
Splash hot water on my face after the shower
Apply cream leave and leave it for one minute
Shave
Apply a/s balm

I'm planning to add some proraso pre-shave lotion to the mix but other than that what am I missing?

 

[jbwcfp]

Blade choice has a lot to do with comfort, I just started about a month ago with a ej de 89, and the only good rash free shaves I have had have been with Astra blades. I have picked up a few vintage Gillette's and the only good shave came with an Astra. I have a few more blades to try,but it is hard to believe the difference in blade comfort. Don't know if Astras will work for you, but keep trying. Four passes could be be a problem to, I have found trial and error works, I'm pretty much down to wag and xtg, but I also have a beard so I'm just shaving checks and neck. Keep at it!