I'd been using WD-40 to keep rust off my razors, and on some a bit of petroleum jelly (Vaseline). Just got a few more antiques I want to try and work on, and a couple have a fair amount of rust on them. I'd like to not use a coarse sandpaper -- two of them have some decent engraving I'd prefer not to upset if I can avoid it, but the rust is really caked on. Was wondering if there was a safe chemical recommended for vintage razors I can use to take a decent amount off and help keep the amount of sanding down without damaging the steel more than it already is.
Non-abrasive rust removal recommendations?
- Thread starter misterelie
- Start date
If you have serious rust, you will probably have some measure of pitting. If its red/brown rust, some penetrating oil on a pad of 000-0000 steel wool and some elbow grease may do the trick. If it's dark brown to blackish, that's an indication it may run deep. Start with steel wool to see, but if its deep, you'll have to knock it back.
You can soak the blade in CLR (Calcium/Lime/Rust) remover, or similar stuff, but I've had mixed results.
You can soak the blade in CLR (Calcium/Lime/Rust) remover, or similar stuff, but I've had mixed results.
Oxalic acid is used to remove rust stains in pools and on concrete. I don’t know anything of it being used on blades but might be worth looking into.
I start with aluminum foil, salt and vinegar.
And then I rinse and dry real good.
Then I take a good look and think about what I want to do next.
I combine the advice from here:
How to Clean Rust
How to clean rust off of metal with this all natural removal method using inexpensive pantry items! Skip the chemical rust removers and use this non-toxic technique to restore your cast iron, tools, knives and more in just minutes. I used to think it was hard to remove rust from metal items-...
with method number 4 from here:
How to Remove Rust from Tools
Knowing how to remove rust from tools can help keep them in great shape. Find out the top methods for removing rust from tools.
www.homedepot.com
- Thread starter
- #5
Perfect. Thank you
Bar Keeper's Friend is oxalic acid based. Excellent for cleaning all sorts of metal and porcelain.
The foil turns gray and becomes brittle.
I suspect that the aluminum is oxidizing by removing oxygen from the rust
and may be chemically reducing some iron oxide back into iron,
but I don't really know.
Oxalic acid will work great for a good first step rust removal. I use it all the time on very fine tools and such when I'm trying to preserve as much of the original finish as possible. And yes, Bar Keeper's Friend is an excellent source of oxalic acid for cleaning up tools and razors. A good scrub with BKF will generally get rid of surface rust within a minute or two. Use nice hot water to make a paste while scrubbing to speed things up a bit. The red rust will be either completely removed or converted to black, depending on how pervasive it is.
Use the smallest hammer first. I would start with 000 steel wool. Then move to various grades of wet/dry sandpaper 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. Keep it simple. I avoid using any kind of harsh chemical. I restore my SRs by hand...no power tools.
Old farmer trick, molasses and hot water in container, fill enough to cover item but not all to top, and store in warm area. Check after lots of yellowish foam forms on top. Got this from an oil lantern resto forum, it is a very gentle rust remover.
Purchase a good quality machine or firearm oil. Never, ever use WD-40. The primary ingredient in WD-40 is water.
Oil and elbow grease go a long way toward removing rust when pitting is not present.
Oil and elbow grease go a long way toward removing rust when pitting is not present.
A very user friendly chemical alternative is Evaporust. Doesn't affect non-rusted steel at all, but - you still have to deal with the black byproduct.
I use Evaporust to restore incredibly rusted tools and it does an absolutely amazing job.
A razor isn't a pipe wrench though, and tedious but necessary manual labor is probably the safest route.
Hi there I have a couple of questions please;
Do you soak the whole razor, scales and all in the Evaporust ?
And how do you deal the black by-product ?
I would not soak the scales at all. Some scales could be very adversely affected by the chemical.
The black deposits usually wash off with a gentle scrubbing with a cloth and warm water.
Again, I am talking about my experience with tools.
I have never put a razor in the stuff and can't vouch for the end result, but it works amazingly on badly corroded tools.
Do you mean etching?
Be careful using something to rub the etching that does not have a stiff backing - like steel wool. The steel wool may remove more of the etching than high grit wet/dry sandpaper - like 2000 to 3000 grit.
I would run a test using high grit wet/dry with WD-40. Tread lightly and be prepared to hit the breaks.
My story:
www.badgerandblade.com
www.badgerandblade.com
Be careful using something to rub the etching that does not have a stiff backing - like steel wool. The steel wool may remove more of the etching than high grit wet/dry sandpaper - like 2000 to 3000 grit.
I would run a test using high grit wet/dry with WD-40. Tread lightly and be prepared to hit the breaks.
My story:
Patina: Good, bad or indifferent?
I have two razors with iridescent patina. I like it a lot. They are both in my rotation. https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/forced-patina-on-a-carbon-steel-straight-razor.580772/post-10571804 Those are nice.
www.badgerandblade.com
Straight Razor Acquisition Thread
Just received the Revisor 8/8 the blade is shorter than a casual straight. Horn scales, I like it a lot, can't wait to try it :) very good service from Revisor BTW.
www.badgerandblade.com
Thanks.
And sorry, I saw that you have only used Evapo-Rust on tools - I was looking at older similar threads at the same time where others used it on razors. I got you mixed up with them and only realized after it was too late.
Anyway, I did what I should have done first and read the information on the Evapo-Rust web site.
There they explain that the blackening is the remaining carbon component of carbon steel that is left behind once the rust has been removed. That sounds quite innocuous and should come off easily.
They also say that the amount of carbon deposited increases with soaking time.
I think that Evapo-Rust is fairly mild as far as rust removers go. My first choice would have been to try the Sugar Beet Molasses method, but Sugar Beet Molasses is not readily available locally and Sugar Cane Molasses is not even remotely as effective from what I have read online.
I am going to try the Evapo-Rust out with an old rusty razor of little value and see what happens. I will only soak for as long as absolutely necessary to remove the rust.
Yes all of the metal must be submerged in the product. Scales will depend on material. I have restored Stanley Hand Planes in much worse shape than any razor I've seen. If you only partially cover the steel, it works so well there will be a line of treated vs untreated steel. You will have a hell of a time getting them to match again.
I have put wooden totes from planers in evaporust. Not for long but long enough to soak. It did fine. You can do evaporust in the house too. It smells like nothing really. You can get it in ypur eye (get it out) but you'll be fine. You can get it in your mouth (spit it out) and you'll be fine.
I know NOTHING about gold or silver plating though. Hand planes aren't pretty. Except to me. But thats a whole other disorder in itself.
