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Nightcap's Journey into Straight Razor Shaving

Greetings Badger & Blade Board Members,

I have decided to keep a journal of sorts, cataloging my experiences as a beginner straight razor shaver. I will include some background of myself here, followed by my experience this morning as a first time straight razor shaver.

My shaving began in a similar way that many have, with cartridge and disposable razors. I kept up this chore until my early 30's, undertaking a shave as infrequently as possible. Razor burn and ingrown hairs would always follow a shave, regardless of which combination of shaving cream or razor I employed.

In my early 30's I met my beautiful wife-to-be who one day suggested that she would like it if I grew a beard. Having had a beard in the past, I took to facial hair like a fish to water. This allowed me to reduce my shaving to my lower neck and cheeks in order to keep the beard looking neat.

Roughly a year ago I decided to try traditional shaving and ordered a long-handled Merkur safety razor set and some Col. Conk's Bay Rum shaving soap. This reduced the shaving irritation and improved the experience. I did not feel the need to try other blades or products as the setup fit my needs, with the minimal amount of shaving required to maintain my full beard.

In January of this year I decided to make a change and shaved off the beard. Shaving with the safety razor proved much more comfortable than my memory of the cartridges. I did feel some irritation on my neck, but with improved technique and other changes, (which I learned of here) this was reduced. Two weeks ago I also began growing an English style mustache, my inspiration Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, pictured in my avatar.

I have always been intrigued by straight razor shaving and the goal of maintaining my own razor. So, after over-researching the subject and watching countless instructional videos, I ordered a Kraken razor from Portland Razor Company. In addition to this, (and because of the two month wait time) I decided to order an inexpensive razor and strop with which to practice my technique. I decided upon a leather strop and the Gold Dollar 66, prepared for shaving by forum member buca3152. This arrived yesterday, and as I have today off from work, I planned for my first trial this morning. I shaved yesterday morning with my Gillette NEW razor with an Astra SP blade.

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Day 1

Razor: Gold Dollar 66
Soap: E-shave Verbena Lime, bowl lathered with badger brush, slightly more water than usual.
Prep: hot shower, face wash with Noxema Daily Cleanser soap, cold water rinse.
Post-shave: cold water rinse, alum block, Witch hazel, Clubman ASL

I decided to retain the shaving routine which I have fallen into with the DE, only changing the razor in order to limit the chance of another variable affecting my shave. I am a decided cold water shave convert, so this was the method I used. Starting with a cold water rinse to finish the shower I placed a cold, wet towel on my face for two minutes while the brush soaked in cold water. Cold water rinses would follow each pass.

My preparation complete, I stood in front of the mirror, shaving cream applied and straight razor in hand. I have been feeling some trepidation for this day. Would I slice myself terribly, requiring a trip to the emergency room? Or, as I read in one account would the shave appear to go well only to have many small cuts appear after I finished, leaving me looking like I was in a fight with a cat? I staged the styptic pencil beside the sink, just in case it would be quickly needed.

I decided to give it that old college try. focusing upon blade angle and a light touch I began the shave. It started off well, with the blade cleanly removing the shaving cream from my face and my cold whiskers making the blade sing as they were sliced away. I finished the first pass, (with the grain) without incident, carefully adjusting the blade angle around the curves of my face. I had been practicing in my DE shaves to stretch my skin and change to my left hand for that side of my face. I followed the pass with a cold water rinse. It did not look, or feel like a close shave, but I was not bleeding and I could plainly see the cut whiskers in the cream wiped off the blade.

I decided to re-lather and take another pass, again with the grain. This went well, without any major mishaps except for a small weeper in the horizontal cleft between my bottom lip and chin, which disappeared with my finishing cold water rinse. The alum block caused a minor amount of stinging, the same as I feel from DE shaving. The resulting shave was acceptable, roughly how my beard feels early in the evening after a morning shave. I am aware that the shaves should improve over time, but feel that this shave would be acceptable for work and I did not feel like pushing my luck any further.

I see this first attempt at straight razor shaving a success, with acceptable room for improvement. Thank you Board members for all of your help leading up to this point, prematurely for answering the questions I am sure to have and a big thank you to Bill (buca3152) for the care you took in preparing my first straight razor.

I plan on stropping the razor this afternoon to prepare for my shave tomorrow morning. If time allows I aim to use the straight razor exclusively in order to refine my technique. I will follow this post with a picture of my shaving setup.
 
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rockviper

I got moves like Jagger
Welcome aboard!.... to B&B, straights, and keeping a journal. That's pretty brave of you to try using a straight for the first time on a workday morning, but it seems like everything went very well. Good choice on sticking with just the WTG passes for now. If you need to clean it up a bit more but are not ready for an XTG or ATG pass (and only you can make that determination), use your DE to finish off the shave. You have nothing to prove by restricting yourself to a straight-only shave, should you need more for work. It will come in time. :thumbup1:
 
Congrats on the first shave and welcome to the dark side!

While I never did De's I think you made a good choice sticking with your routune you know. You will improve quickly. Just stick with it
 
Day 2

Razor: Gold Dollar 66
Soap: CO Bigelo, bowl lathered with badger brush.
Prep: Cold water rinse, lather and cold towel for two minutes.
Post-shave: cold water rinse, alum block, Witch hazel, Clubman ASL

Nice two pass shave today, without blood. Results are closer than yesterday, unable to feel stubble with the grain, but can against.

I had less time this morning, so I stropped the razor and showered yesterday evening. Prep was the same. I tried out a new cream today, CO Bigelow, which compliments my cold shaving excellently. Feeling a little more confident I increased the blade angle just a bit, to 1-1.5 spine width, which resulted in a closer shave. I plan on sticking to this cream and blade angle. Also, for at least this week I plan on only working with the grain. I find straight razor shaving lends an air of confidence, after all I am (hopefully) unlikely to meet something today which requires more concentration or is more dangerous than a morning shave.
 
Nightcap: You are off to a great start, you obviously did your homework. I too am a cold water convert, congrats on your second successful shave with a straight razor.
 
Congrats on your success. Your preparation and research ahead of time has clearly paid dividends. Your shaves will indeed, get better over time. Particularly once you add in an ATG pass. Ensure that you keep the blade flatter than going WTG, almost flat against your skin when doing your neck area and use an exceedingly light touch.
 
Day 3

Stropped razor 50 passes on leather before shave. Routine identical to previous days, showering before shave, except for finishing with Skin Bracer.

Great shave today, similar results to yesterday. Resulting shave smooth with the grain, some stubble can be felt against. I'm sure a pass across the grain would pick this up, but I am continuing to focus on with the grain technique.

I tried Skin Bracer aftershave, to keep with the cold shave theme, happy with product, very cooling.

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Thank you Bluesman, I will look forward to it.

Day 4

Having the day off of work, I spent extra time on my shave. Same preparation and equipment as yesterday. Stropped 60 passes on leather prior to the shave, and used my "snow scuttle" to keep the lather extra cold. One pass with the grain and one across. I need to become accustomed to the grips necissary to make passes in different directions. Resulting shave is comfortable and close, with only isolated patches which may be felt when moving the hand against the grain. Another small weeper on the chin that disappeared in the cold rinse.

I am seeing a great benefit to my skin, without razor burn. Also the three ingrown hairs I received on my last use of the safety razor, (likely from pulling on the skin and shaving close against the grain) have nearly vanished.

"Snow Scuttle," also known as a bowl of snow:
 

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I feel very positive about my first work week using the straight. This morning I treated myself to a nice walk with the dog and a pipefull of Dunhill 965 followed by a full breakfast.
 
I have never yet seen a "snow scuttle" here on B&B before. Congrats on that first sir! Although I do ascribe to cold water shaving myself also. Particularly in the summer. In the winter I use more lukewarm water, but never hot water to make my lather. or to rinse. Much friendlier to my brushes as well as my skin.

You are wise to perfect your WTG and XTG passes first. But then I am not surprised, considering your well thought out approach towards using the straight. Enjoy your shaves. They will keep getting better.
 
Congratulations on your decision and on your early successes. I use a scuttle, but no snow. In time I might explore the cold water shave, but for now, I like mine hot. With an ice cold water rinse at the end. What a way to start the day.
 
Day 5

Nice shave this morning, using the same method. One small cut at point of chin, styptic pencil cleared this up. Adding an across the grain pass has increased the challenge, but the resulting shave is close and comfortable.
 
Day 6

Similar shave routine this morning. Things went well, except for one minor cut in front of my right ear. When making my across the grain pass from the ear to nose I let the razor stop, and likely had too open of an angle resulting in a thin red line under the sideburn. It was just a minor flesh wound and I am still enjoying the straight shaving. In the future I will take extra care with passes across the grain.
 
Day 7

Nice, close shave this morning. I found that at this stage I get the same results on the second pass just going diagonally across the grain as opposed to changing grip and passing perpendicular. At the end of my first week of straight razor shaving I am feeling very positive about the process. Last night I won a late 1800's Joseph Rodgers and Sons straight from from an auction site, this morning I ordered a set of lapping films. Looking forward to the restoration.
 
Day 8

Close, comfortable shave this morning. I decided to time myself to budget for morning preparations. I found it takes 30 minutes for a leisurely two pass shave from beginning to applying wax to the moustache.
 
Day 9

Nice shave this morning. Note to self: do not try to listen to Pandora while shaving, it is difficult to stop and reject songs.
 
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