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Nick Public Shave Journal

I use Microsoft OneNote. Short public notes.

Rough shave 7/4 Rapira with Personna. Personna too close and weepers at chin. Make mental note: Rapira with Rapira red white blue is best result for me. Went to the Parade alone this year. I miss having a girlfriend. Looking for new job.

7/5 [Vikings Blade Chieftain Jr.] VB315 with Personna. I feel neck could be closer. Starting to like the Cat O Nine Tails. I should use VB315 more often. Love the Muhle olivewood with CELLA. CELLA is top 3 best soap for life. Old Spice Classic deodorant I like a lot, new stick.
 
Long initial posting.

Thanks, @thombrogan. Newbie post, establishing continuity of B&B. Made some fairly long posts about Personna. Enjoyed some post about old soap. And posted about old bay rum bottle my cousin had asked about. Talked about Parker, not talked about shaving products. And setup introduction in week 1 for myself. I probably need to add a signature. @Jim has excellent documentation. @luvmysuper found to be supportive and helpful in building confidence to create B&B account and maintain. 4th of July is over. B&B value for me is getting people to look and respond to my posts. Lurkers are read-only and cannot contribute to community. I do not know difference of admins, moderators and ambassadors. People seem polite, courteous, respectful. No swearing, no nudity, no profanity and I appreciate that. I have 30 posts and can private message. Did look briefly at wikis. Have not looked at shavettes, honing or straight razors. A bit uncomfortable about PIFs though understand some people like being generous and sharing. A plethora of vintage posts are available, probably need more time searching for posts. Found it difficult to look at people's posts, so much daily commenting makes it hard to identify some posts though with time I suppose you could see it all.

Status report for me. Razors, I have 4 DE 2-piece and 2 shavettes. 5 brushes. 8 kilograms of soap. Probably 12 aftershave. Would like to setup a wiki page to document what I have. Do not anticipate buying more shaving goods for some time.

Thoughts: Reason for switching over to wet shaving. I was at a local walgreens or CVS and felt pressured to buy things. I only had a can of Edge and a Gillette Fusion. Was not really interested in converting to safety razors, put money into it and bought new items. Now the Edge kind of smells a bit chemically, performance is fine. This morning I really like the CELLA and Muhle olivewood, and like the Captain's Choice bowls.

I think points of discussion for forum should be guided by meeting new members. And focusing on specific questions. For me, it is trying to get a better neck shave, I know the angle is off. Another point is building razor/blade combinations. And third I would think is products.

Time commitment for me, investing several hours initially getting started. I do not know the value of a long term public shaving forum, or a public journal. Shaving still seems private to me.

Summary:
1. Need personal wiki setup for me.
2. Review and introduce myself to admin, mod, ambassadors.
3. Review forum rules. Good social etiquette.
4. Establish a better sense of timing for contributing to B&B.
5. Look at internals for B&B, I know there are several wikis that could use updating.
6. Lots of products that are out of production, Williams, unobtanium.
7. Determine for myself long-term value of participating in shaving forum.
8. Setup signature.

Long-term plan. Next 6 months:
1. Vikings Blade would like to determine what step needed for achieving a closer neck shave.
2. Skin stretching. More consistency for shavette needed.
3. Match blades to the razors. Minor documentation would be helpful.
4. Check-in timing once a week then once a month for B&B journal. Make action item to follow-up with myself every 60 days, then 9-12 weeks.
5. Razor grip. Isolate some posts for new grip.
6. Volunteer to update work instructions for the forum. Job Aids. Wiki posts.
7. Establish a long term savings fund, allocate low-priority shaving.
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
Very glad you’ve joined here and are contributing your experiences and making longer term plans to make our wikis better.

You are very correct a shaving journal is personal. They can be intensely so and that kind of vulnerability is always a risk. Were there to be a reward, it would be a very subjective one. Being able to commiserate with strangers separated by distance, faith, and ideology and set all that aside because we’re all on a hoarding spectrum and likely doomed to painful and tragic neurological problems has been a treasure for me. Not the “we’re all gonna die of Parkinson’s or worse” part, but the “we might be eight thousand miles away from each other, have different philosophies and maybe creeds, but you also enjoy using this soap I like” and finding commonalities and community from that tiny step part.

Sometimes, knowing someone else is also a sucker for razors made in Brooklyn, NY back in the day or Turkish-style shavettes is all it takes and boom! New friend!

And strategies for close, non-irritating neck shaves vary from secrets to success for one person who’s whiskers in a particular pattern and are attacked with specific equipment and in just a unique way to “didn’t feel scratchy till the next shave and that’s good enough.” Some people stretch their skin, some bunch it up in a practice called “bullfrogging” on this forum.

We also have subforums for making coffee, writing with snazzy pens, photography, cooking, and tons more.

I hope this place provides what you want to learn and more. And even if it’s not much and you’re now set for life, thank you for stopping in!
 
Long post.

Some thoughts approaching 1 year into wet shaving. Head shaving would be worth looking at Gillette Fusion a second time. Going to be honest safety razors require more passes. Learning to shave at age 38 there were probably 3 bad head shaves, In 300 shaves I think there was a cut or two every six shaves. Shavette shaves were every single shave blood for the first two weeks.

Hot water showers seem to heal the skin quickly. A styptic pencil does nothing if it is a bleeder. And toilet paper squares seem to help the most. Triple antibiotic ointment seems to help the most for reducing scarring.

Razors:
Rapira has drawn blood at the nose and it is old technology, no guard so I need to be careful in handling. Has also given some redeeming shaves. Works exceedingly well with CELLA. Not great with ATG shaves.

R89 I was looking forward to the most. Thought I would use exclusively with MUHLE blades. Have actually used in a rotation and not as much usage as I would have thought.

VB315 the neck shaves are not efficient. They have too much hair they leave behind.

Olivina for Men Ivory. Just not comfortable at all. Head is unforgiving. Uncomfortable head shaves. Aggressive shave for me.

NE Shavette. Some days it gives a closer shave than Rapira. Neck shaves are not close though and not comfortable some days.

Plisson shavette. Drags and damaged hair follicle removing it completely on left chin. Left a bald patch of hair at the chin. Comfortable shave. I want to like it because I paid more for it. It is more forgiving than NE.

Soap:
B&M takes forever to build a good lather.
Stirling. Over-hydrates my face. Have used pre-shave oil so the soap does not over-soften skin. Soap has a fragrance that is long-lasting and can smell hours after the shave.
Williams. Stopped lathering for me. And then discontinued.
CELLA. Top 3 is always going to be with me. Love using it with boar and MUHLE. Easy lather with tallow. Enjoyable to use. Did irritate my skin for awhile. Does not irritate anymore. Thick lather.
WSP. T-Formula Tobacco does irritate my skin sometimes. Makes my face scream. Cushion. Great lather.
Wickham 1912. The best soap for me. Does not use regularly.
Captain's Choice. Have not used soap regularly enough to enjoy it.
Martin. I like a lot. Adheres to the face. The best soap.
Sebum Green. Have not used long enough to form opinion.
Sir Hare. Good. Does not thicken up as much as I would like.
Tabac. Good.
MUHLE. Hard to make lather in beginning, just needed more work. Easy to use now. I like the scents.
What the puck. Enjoyable to use. Not a lot of post-shave compared to the tubs though the sticks are good.

Cream:
Have some MUHLE. Good for consistency. One really bad head shave with it, offered NO protection whatsoever.
Captain's Choice. Not much of a cream guy. Bay Rum has some scent to it, and feel weird because it is effortless to build a good lather with it.

Aftershave:
Skin Bracer. Good clean feeling. Fine for church. A few hours.
Cat O Nine Tails. Some days no burn at all, some days a very strong almost painful burn to it. Usually only lasts a minute. No scent length for me, could be longer.
Lime: No length, a few minutes of burning alcohol. Simple scent.
Clubman. I like. 5-6 drops is all I need. Not a long lasting scent for me though I know it is there washing it off at the end of the day. Day scent, not evening. Smells floral.
Stetson. I think this is Classic. I like aftershave. Cologne I also like. Simple, western theme.
Sebum Serum. Great stuff. Green scent. Clean feeling. Light, simple.
B&M: longest lasting tobacco complex scent. like a plum.
Stirling Ben Franklin. Matches well to a Fougere from What the Puck.
Aqua Velva. Classic burns some days. Has some menthol some days. Very inconsistent for me. Used to have a longer smell for me.
Old Spice. I like both Cologne and Aftershave. Smells like the classic deodorant. Would use every day.
Duke Cannon. Balm is not what I expected, a bit thick for me. Sandalwood smell I do not like. Good performance though.
Booster. Great stuff. Not nearly the quality of the balms. Provides good scent, clean feeling. Cheap aftershave and does a good job always with it.
Castle Forbes Balm. Really good, if not the best balm. Cap heads need to be cleaned weekly or monthly. Does leave a residue after all day long that washes off with wash cloth. Kind of like an extra skin. Pleasing scent.
Stirling Aloe, Witch Hazel. Not crazy about witch hazel, though the aloe does make skin feel good after a rough shave.

Cologne:
MAN Bulgari. I liked it. Glacial. Need to order more.

Stetson. Classic smells like amber. Flowers. something white. Good for evening wear.
Stetson Spirit I like. Kind of clean smelling. Light. T-shirt and jeans to wear around house or doing yard work.
Old Spice. Floral. Water fougere.

Argan oil. Good for skin, and rough shaves.
Raw shea butter. Helps skin heal and stay moisturized.
Sir Hare. Moisturizer. Probably my favorite men's skin moisturizer.
CAST have hand lotion. Brazil. smells nice.
Duke Cannon Bloody Knuckles. Lanolin. Clean. Refreshing hand cream.

Old Spice Classic Deodorant. I like it.
Tabac. Strong smelling and all day you are going to notice it is there.

Thoughts. Would be easier to use one razor every day.
Rapira does not do ATG. Vikings is not close. Olivina too aggressive. MUHLE R89 best for me.
Shavette just pick one because two shavettes makes it hard to adjust between the two razors.

For soap I think it is easier just to use the same soap 5 days per week. Have something nice for a change up during the week or weekend. I do not really care much about aftershave these days, truth be told. I use what I have on hand.

I would not order more soap. Blades I have several 100-packs. I am fine using shavettes. No interest in using straight razor and learning to hone today, though I understand the process and it is easy for me because I know how to sharpen. I like mild razors, mild blades.

Wet shaving for me is THE, and I believe you should always give good shaves.

For vintage razors, have no interest at this time.

"Birthday" items.
CELLA BIO Aloe Vera. Have never tried the aftershave.
low interest in KENT soap.
CELLA aftershave red would like 3 bottles all at once.
ZENITH boar would like one of those.
ABC soap.
Plisson shavettes in black and yellow.
B&M Seville, Cypher
Soap Commander Endurance
Italian Barber cologne scent soap.

I do not like sample sizes, do not receive shaving gifts from other people. I buy my own things, pay full price for things. Do not accept gifts from people. I buy my own shaving items.
 
Formally asked B&B to remove my account credentials. 49 posts is enough for me. I have enough shaving items. I'm done.
 
Comments about this morning shave.

7/6 WSP T-Formula Tobacco. I had WSP send a new sample. Reports of irritation with the soap. The soap is not irritating. Used in a scuttle with boar today if it matters. @Black Adder I put soap into the scuttle and built the lather from there. No loading because those sample tins from WSP are too small to load from.

One pass shave, 2nd pass below jawline near ear. ATG was not needed for neck and caused irritation for 15 minutes.

WSP requires no aftershave. Post shave feels great.

Skin stretching for shavette. None for DE razor. Does not use bullfrog method.

Derby Extra Green is perfect for shavette.
 
Follow-up post to the 7/6 shave.

Razor: Plisson shavette
Soap: WSP T-Formula
Prep: water on the face
Captain Choice Scuttle
Brush: Goodlines boar from CVS Pharmacy
Blade: Derby Extra Green

Honestly probably one of the better shaves today. Close to a one pass shave. Right cheek could have used additional XTG pass though did not touch up. Really noticed the grain this morning with the 5x mirror both last evening and this morning. The Plisson is a bit rough of a shave around the chin for me, making additional notes about removing lather, not trying to remove facial hair. The Plisson is sharp enough to actually remove the hair permanently.

I like the scuttle and WSP is easy to use. $4.67 per ounce, 16 cents for 133g or 26 cents per gram.

Prep I could be doing so much more. The shower though makes my face sometimes beat red and while it can soften hair it can also irritate. I put water on my face and let it stay there for 5 minutes and do not wipe the water off while I am making the lather and setting up the morning shave. Water on the shave is water on the face.

Goodlines boar I really like and honestly surprised the first time I saw it in the local walk-in store. At $13 I really like it and soak in water the evening before to let it hydrate. Faithful friend.

Derby I know there are sharper out there. I like the duller blade. Makes for easier to control shavette.

Someone commented on the shavette to get a nice one. Plisson is the nicest build quality there is. The difference for me, the NE Shavette can be super sharp and micro-cuts and weepers barely holding it, though the chin is a bit easier to shave with. I like Plisson fits with the Permasharp Saloon and 1/2 DE blades, nothing further needed.

Post-shave feel of the WSP tallow is great. No aftershave needed. And the tobacco scent is strong enough to last on it's own for a bit longer. Shea butter and tallow. If there is price comparison CELLA still is much better and I have a tub of raw shea butter that should easily last the year.

For mapping the grain, I think it really does make you into a better shaver.

And for the head shave I have one of the closest head shaves possible with Vikings Blade Chieftain Jr. and Personna German. So I would not agree with those saying it is not a close shave. Great for safe, close and comfortable shaves.
 
The Wind and the Willow
Life is too short to argue with computers that think they are people.

To my future children, the answer to the question is The Wind and the Willow.

Earn a college degree. Work hard in school, study and always be respectful to your mother and father. Some day you will realize the very precious gift they gave to you.
 
There is value in wet shaving specific journals.

Loading is not the same as bowl lathering. I bowl lather and usually load and build lather though helpful to think of it as two steps.
 
24 January 2023

About 6 months since the last post. I now can comfortably shave with safety razors every day. Results are usually a decent close shave every day. Two passes gets most of the hair. A third pass and blade buffing can bring DFS CSS to BBS. With prep, I notice a lot closer of a shave.

Prep usually is a splash of water. Water in the house is warm, not steaming hot. Wash cloth on the face does help and I leave water on the face instead of wiping off.

I have some preshave ANTICA Barberia COLLA cream, have used Caswell Massey preshave almond oil and the Art of Shaving I have sandalwood oil. I used earlier some Sir Hare preshave oil with sunflower oil.

On weekends I’ll use a hot towel, warm up a scuttle. Apply preshave oil. Apply a lather and let it sit in with the hot towel then wipe off lather and begin with a 3 pass shave with new lather.

Head shaves are usually two passes, sometimes three. Face shaves are usually two to three passes. Usually a touch up pass if I feel it is needed.

Actual straight razors I have one pass shaves. If it is sharp enough to use I keep it for the shave. If it is not sharp enough I use a second or a third razor. These are shave tests, not full shaves. Right now I paid TSS to put the bevel on. It felt like it was not sharp so I put on the 1K and 4K slip stone (hand carver side for tool work). While these are flat stones they are from my college years when I was sharpening my first set of luthier tools now 20 years ago. Some stones are dished and the DMT lapping plate ran out a long time ago and did not replace. Need new sharpening tools and honing stones. Good is the straight razors are super easy to sharpen, no jig is needed. I do not need much torque or downward pressure on these.

For stones I have not selected a brand. 1K chosera or 1K king seems appropriate. I usually like a 4K stone and then a leather patch with chrome bar oxide (green). This is not sufficient for straight razors and at minimum it needs 8K and probably 12K.

I joined B&B in 2022 and interested in ordering stones for 2023.

Film lapping with acrylic is recommended if you do need to know what 250 grit feels like for 2500 grit. And they usually have a smooth step progression up to 10,000 to 12,000 to 15,000 and probably up to 30,000. Acrylic base or wood base is fine.

For coticules I know there are some Belgian, la verte and grise is what I am interested in, la Lorraine, some old barber specific stones from 100-140 years ago, some Thruinger and Arkansas. There are some European stones. There are American from the Ohio Pennsylvania near Appalachian trail. And there is Vermont green stone.

The Japanese natural are also available and of course so are Japanese water stones. And there is the Chinese water stones.

I also find some stones Pierre La Lune and Sawmill light called Black Shadow. I think these are 12-15K. I think the older la lune are worth finding.

There is Rozsutec stone and some Belgian blue.

Bringing myself up to speed there is the shavette. The Plisson red I enjoy for build, precision. The New England shavette is equal performance. I have Derby Extra and Rapira and those both offer a close shave with a two pass. Some shavette shaves are getting extremely close and are enjoyable result.

Sourcing of new stones is necessary and could take months to find what I am looking for.

For the synthetic there is NANIWA and I personally like the small hand size Sun Tiger. I know Norton has a strong market for their stones and up to 4-5K I think Norton competes with the knife market honing stones.

I’ll also need a rig to hold the diamond lapping stone. And I would also like to get a diamond lapping stone. And also a non diamond 300-400 grit for lapping purposes only. I had DMT in the past though used the diamond stone for woodworking tools and a lot more than just lapping.

For straight razor I like the NTS Solingen and I plan on getting several of these. Genco was the razor my great grandfather used and was local to us from New York. I think the NTS feel every bit as good as a new Dovo. I like the Ebre First Class and it kind of reminds me of a Gnome for it is not massive and definitely has some good tool steel. The Dovo I think is a great reference point for what a good edge can be at a 3K you can really start to feel these take the edge.

Honing is a lot more than sharpening with methodical blind 150-300 strokes. It is about knowing the mirror light of the blade, the haziness of the blade and knowing how to sharpen evenly. Of course I should review my own work at a later date with a jeweler loupe. The magnifier and light I currently have is 30 years old and might need replacing though the magnifier still works, light needs fixing or replacement.

The honed razors for me have the arm hair test. They fail the HHT for me. At this point I know the bevel is set, can visually identify blade defects and hopefully not introduce any new defects from sharpening.

Soap I have several tubs. I would like to start going back to the hard soaps and know MUHLE has several of these.

Safety blades are Treet dura sharp and some platinum. Personna platinum I find a bit too sharp some days. MUHLE I like. Rapira and it is mild though I like for head shaves. Derby Extra. King C Gillette and Goodlines. And Vikings Blade cayenne.

I have 1200 of the Rapira so these are easy to use every day for the shavette.

In a daily basis I use a smaller brush for the face. And larger if there is a head shave involved. I like the metal bowl 7-8” it works nicely for me. The Captain’s choice is good for 1-2 passes. If I need more soap I just add more to the bowl. Definitely start with bowl lather. And move onto the face lather.

For shavette I have visual 14 point scans for each area. It provides additional accuracy and consistency with daily shave and hand positions. Freehand, backhand and reverse backhand.
I included screenshots for area:

5. Left side of my face direction is up
10. Right side of my face direction is up
11. Make note of transition between chin and lip for easy to find blood here
12. Chin itself for me usually has hair transitioning from chin to jawline
13. Neck direction is up

5, 10 and 13 are the areas I need to work on most. The grain direction reverses and the angle of the shavette should be in alignment with the hair on the face.
11. Be aware of the bump around here to avoid cuts
12. Needs a closer shave with the shavette

Another area is 1-4 and 7-8 below the ear and below the jawline.
 

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24 January 2023

Simple update. Omega brush and Bigelow gives a close and comfortable shave. The first time is a lot of menthol and I think is a hot scuttle shave.

Captain’s Choice scuttle was designed for cream so it is easy to fit enough for 1-2 passes. If you need more cream apply from the tube directly into the brush and into the scuttle.

Cream gives a noticeably smooth shave though requires prep with hot towels in order to soften the hair.
 
MUHLE R41 ROSE GOLD
TREET DURA SHARP 1st use (yellow red label also known as carbon steel)
Pre-shave: Pears Marine blue soap in the shower
Post-shave: Plisson anti-wrinkle cream, raw shea butter for lip
Brush: Razorock Chubby Extra Silvertip Cherry wood 506 handle (506CKnic)
Soap: CELLA MILANO Extra Extra Purissima

I have recently used the R89 with the Rapira blade. I have a lot of TREET and RAPIRA blades and instead of digging through my box of items finding blades I think for consistency it is good to try these blades in several razors.

GENERAL NOTES
1. Spyderco has some honing stones worth looking into
2. R89 with Rapira is decent, I might like Rapira with the Swedish Super steel razor a bit more though.

SHAVE NOTES
[x] Pears is great for the shower as a preshave. Mild glycerine. Did not irritate today.
[x] The badger is tremendous with face lather. There is no need to bowl lather.
[x] Load is from the soap mug today and very easy to load. Probably 10-20s.
[ ] Lather was a bit watery, problem is I am face lathering and I definitely dunked the brush into the hot water several times. Went back to the load and there was more CELLA and instantly recovered.
[ ] CELLA is one of the best soaps in the history of soaps. I always have a good shave with CELLA.
[x] R41 is not too aggressive at all. 1 pass shave with touch ups.
[x] Neck is exactly what I am looking for in a good shave this evening
[x] 14 point barber shave quickly got in and identified the parts needing improvement. For me always below the jaw and below the ears WTG pass
[ ] ATG for mustache did result in weepers. Not the most comfortable blade for ATG for the mustache, similar to Rapira. Blade buffing and riding the cap to lower the angle helped.
[x] Plisson is always a bit weird feeling going on the skin immediately after the shave. It absorbs into the skin and 6 pumps was probably too much, could have used around half
[x] raw shea butter without alum definitely made the skin feel good


shave points
1 cheek is good
2 mouth area is efficient
3 mustache area had weepers, wrong direction should be diagonal instead of WTG
4 left side of neck could use more WTG.
5 lowest left side of neck could use XTG or ATG
6 weepers. wrong direction should be diagonal instead of WTG
7 cheek is good
8 direction is good, the mouth is efficient area
9 right side should have more WTG
10 good
11 direction is wrong for chin and should be diagonal
12 should use more blade buffing WTG
13 good
14 very good
 
RAZOR: MUHLE R41 razor
BLADE: TREET carbon steel 2nd use
SOAP: Razorock WTP barber blue
BALM: Duke Cannon Ice Cold balm sandalwood

I usually have a VB315 and it is mild. Rapira Swedish Supersteel is another step up. Olivina is another step up. R89 is another step. R41 is pretty much the last step for aggression. It gets two pass shave today and front to back, back to front and lift around the ears. Head shave and alum block. The balm is nice and the sandalwood and shea butter is nice and longer lasting than I was expecting.

Rapira Swedish Supersteel with CELLA is the head shave for me with Rapira red white blue. Old Spice Classic for deodorant and aftershave.
 
Preshave ABC cream "reminds me of Utterly Smooth Body Cream," says mom. Reminds me of CeraVue Moisturizing Cream.

RALON classic shaving cream tube made by Pitralon.
There is also Brinell, Pascale and Florena.

For some Polish "krem do golena" there is:
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28 JAN 2023
CELLA MILANO EXTRA EXTRA PURISSIMA
ZENITH PROFESSIONAL LENGTH IVORY HANDLE BRUSH
MERKUR 34G
TREET CARBON STEEL (5)
CAT O NINE TAILS AFTERSHAVE

preshave is water.
Cella is great stuff. Versatile. Almond scent. Italian soap. Lathers easily. Feels great on the face. Three pass shave with a mild Merkur today. The Treet I am getting some 5th use from it and usually only get around 3. It is carbon steel. Most of my shave brushes are ivory for me or wood handle. STRONG burn for aftershave.
 

lasta

Blade Biter
Preshave ABC cream "reminds me of Utterly Smooth Body Cream," says mom. Reminds me of CeraVue Moisturizing Cream.

RALON classic shaving cream tube made by Pitralon.
There is also Brinell, Pascale and Florena.

For some Polish "krem do golena" there is:
View attachment 1595451
View attachment 1595452
View attachment 1595454

View attachment 1595455
View attachment 1595456
WARS is awesome cream! I've always had some of those around since 2005.
 
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