(Newbie) Shavette vs Straight razor

[Stapelfeld]

Hey everyone! I’m Sean and I’m new here and new in general when it comes to shaving with a straight razor.

I bought a Gold Dollar that said shave ready but it wasn’t, so I got my shapton stones and went all the way up to my 12k doing slurried circles and then x strokes with slurry and then under running water. I put that bad boy on a strip with 0.50 micron paste and it came out super sharp, it whittles hair and I cut myself a few times when I went to shave.

The gold dollar shaves and it doesn’t irritate my skin but it doesn’t feel as close a shave as a shavette with disposable double edge razors… is this normal? Thank you all in advance, I love this community.

 

[rbscebu]

Two things, your GD edge is not yet the sharpest it can be. For that, as a beginner, you should be finishing on a full diamond pasted balsa strop progression (0.5μm, 0.25μm & 0.1μm). Read the instructions.

Second, it is normally for your first hundred or so daily SR shaves to not be as close to what you are use to with other shaving mediums. This will change as your SR shaving technique develops to what suits your face and shaving style. If you don't SR shave daily, it will take you many more SR shaves to get there.

Shavette shaving and SR shaving are similar but different. You will learn.

 

[KW Driver]

And a pasted strop will eventually convex the edge necessitating a trip back to the 12k or lower to clean up the edge is the lore.

Also, clean the edge off the pasted strop and strop it on clean leather if you aren’t. Strop it at least 10 times on clean leather to clean and dry the edge and maintain it post shave.

I personally never liked anything below 1 micron as feeling hash. Crox/Feox was harsh. CBN/diamond paste smoother but still very keen while a bit harsh. A .5, .25, .1 Diamond paste on balsa is smooth, and supremely keen. I was surprised how much the .1 smooths out the edge.

Your angle might be steep. You want about a spine’s width off your face as you shave. Keeping a sharp edge shallow is smoother. You also have a longer blade to track. Some spots using the heel and lifting the toe gets into a tight spot, sometimes toe down, heel lifted. You’ll rarely use the entire edge.

As said, keep working it and you’ll get there. Also, a lot of us prefer a wetter that DE lather. Keep it slick, but cushion less of a priority once you get technique down

And come on down to the straight razor section. Welcome here.

 

[Stapelfeld]

So I’ve learned a few things from both of your guys comments. I’m going to start shaving every day for 3 months and check on what progress I make with my technique and if that helps.

The spine width trick is one im definitely going to use for my next shave. I am having a little difficulty understanding the difference between microns and μm so I will research that some more.

Do you guys think there is a need for a progression? Can I go from the .50 micron paste to a 0.1μm?

 

[BigJ]

Great advice above!!

The key concept IMO is that ‘traditional’ wet shaving is a skill set that takes awhile to acquire!

Well worth the effort to get the results you want.

 

[KW Driver]

microns and μm

they're the same. I don't have the abbreviation shortcut set up for my keyboard. µm=micron. huh. turns out I forgot I had it.

I wouldn't go .5 to .1. because that's a bigger jump. the .5, .25, .1 is an extra piece of set up, but probably faster. if you're doing a .5 on a hanging leather, your bevel won't be the same (more convexed vs dead flat) as a balsa on acrylic base (the common set up). go into the straight shaving area and look up "The Method" for setting up this kind of progression. if you're using a paddle strop, it's probably providing some degree of cushion and convexing adjusted for the amount of pressure you put on it too I assume. your stones if properly lapped flat will have a dead flat bevel. as stones dish they start to introduce convexing as well is theory. it may have been proven as well, but that discussion is way back in the threads. convexing a bevel tends to make it smoother, but eventually you'll have to reset the edge on a mid to high grit stone/film/whatever. usually 8k does the trick.

plenty of dudes over the years have been perfectly happy with a pasted hanging strop finish. I've never done it so I can't speak to it. once you get good at shaving and honing you may be satisfied with your 12k as a finisher. most guys shaving off man made or natural rocks shave off a 12-20k-ish edge. Coticules tend to be around 8k, but with a good finish they create a keen/sharp enough and very smooth face feel.

also, the sooner you touch up the edge as you feel it degrade, they less work you'll have to do to get it back to 100%. with the .5, .25, .1 progression, 50 odd laps on the .1 post shave will maintain your edge indefinitely is Slash McCoy's contention, with others backing that up.

you don't have to shave daily to improve, and if you irritate your face, give it a day or two off. you do need to consistently use it to make quicker gains.

 

[Stapelfeld]

they're the same. I don't have the abbreviation shortcut set up for my keyboard. µm=micron. huh. turns out I forgot I had it.

I wouldn't go .5 to .1. because that's a bigger jump. the .5, .25, .1 is an extra piece of set up, but probably faster. if you're doing a .5 on a hanging leather, your bevel won't be the same (more convexed vs dead flat) as a balsa on acrylic base (the common set up). go into the straight shaving area and look up "The Method" for setting up this kind of progression. if you're using a paddle strop, it's probably providing some degree of cushion and convexing adjusted for the amount of pressure you put on it too I assume. your stones if properly lapped flat will have a dead flat bevel. as stones dish they start to introduce convexing as well is theory. it may have been proven as well, but that discussion is way back in the threads. convexing a bevel tends to make it smoother, but eventually you'll have to reset the edge on a mid to high grit stone/film/whatever. usually 8k does the trick.

plenty of dudes over the years have been perfectly happy with a pasted hanging strop finish. I've never done it so I can't speak to it. once you get good at shaving and honing you may be satisfied with your 12k as a finisher. most guys shaving off man made or natural rocks shave off a 12-20k-ish edge. Coticules tend to be around 8k, but with a good finish they create a keen/sharp enough and very smooth face feel.

also, the sooner you touch up the edge as you feel it degrade, they less work you'll have to do to get it back to 100%. with the .5, .25, .1 progression, 50 odd laps on the .1 post shave will maintain your edge indefinitely is Slash McCoy's contention, with others backing that up.

you don't have to shave daily to improve, and if you irritate your face, give it a day or two off. you do need to consistently use it to make quicker gains.

Really great advice, thank you so much for taking of your time and explaining all this to a newbie like me

 

[Mitzie]

If you have the time and patience to hone and constantly maintain an edge, to a level that suits you, SRs are great. The advantage of shavettes is that you have a huge choice of different DE blades to choose from, varying in sharpness from ultra sharp to mild. -Which makes it easier to find a blade that suits you and gives you a more consistency shave, after shave, without resorting to hones etc.. to maintain a reasonable consistent edge. Also many shavettes are very light in weight which makes it easier to maintain a steady hand when shaving. Each to his own.

 

[Stapelfeld]

If you have the time and patience to hone and constantly maintain an edge, to a level that suits you, SRs are great. The advantage of shavettes is that you have a huge choice of different DE blades to choose from, varying in sharpness from ultra sharp to mild. -Which makes it easier to find a blade that suits you and gives you a more consistency shave, after shave, without resorting to hones etc.. to maintain a reasonable consistent edge. Also many shavettes are very light in weight which makes it easier to maintain a steady hand when shaving. Each to his own.

And they are probably a more affordable way of shaving because with all the whetstones, strops and paste you need my spending on this has easily reached 300$ and that’s because I’m using a Gold Dollar and not the one I really wanted which was the DOVO Bismarck. The only thing I’ve told myself to justify this is that this is an item I can pass on to my children when I’m gone and so the stones and razor should last me a lifetime. Hopefully

 

[OkieStubble]

And they are probably a more affordable way of shaving because with all the whetstones, strops and paste you need my spending on this has easily reached 300$ and that’s because I’m using a Gold Dollar and not the one I really wanted which was the DOVO Bismarck. The only thing I’ve told myself to justify this is that this is an item I can pass on to my children when I’m gone and so the stones and razor should last me a lifetime. Hopefully

I prefer the closeness I feel like I get from a shavette over a straight, but a fresh honed straight can be a bit smoother than a fresh blade in a shavette. Have several shavette's and I don't have the time, patience or skill for stones, but I keep my single owned Dovo Bismarck's edge maintained with 3M lapping film.

@Slash McCoy 's videos are an excellent tutorial.

 

[Ravenonrock]

I never took to the shavette myself. I used a Feather AC SS with Pro Guard blades. The razor itself was very well constructed and the shaves were very close, even with the milder blades. I used it while I waited for two SR’s I owned to be ”professionally “ honed. The razors I got back didn’t shave as well as the shavette. They were ok, just not comfortable. Went back and purchased synthetic stones and started honing. Never picked up the shavette again. It certainly gave me something to shoot for as far as sharpness and comfort goes. I would say my edges are more forgiving and I prefer the size and feel of a straight razor. I did put in considerable time honing a variety of razors and still have much to learn 3 years in.

 

[kingfisher]

I never took to the shavette myself. I used a Feather AC SS with Pro Guard blades. The razor itself was very well constructed and the shaves were very close, even with the milder blades. I used it while I waited for two SR’s I owned to be ”professionally “ honed. The razors I got back didn’t shave as well as the shavette. They were ok, just not comfortable. Went back and purchased synthetic stones and started honing. Never picked up the shavette again. It certainly gave me something to shoot for as far as sharpness and comfort goes. I would say my edges are more forgiving and I prefer the size and feel of a straight razor. I did put in considerable time honing a variety of razors and still have much to learn 3 years in.

A guarded blade with a Feather SS doesn't make any sense. The SS has enough protection with the little bump.

Anyway, I'm the opposite of the other guys in the thread. I have nearly 1000 open blade shaves under my belt, and more than 700 have been with AC shavettes.

I much prefer AC shavettes to DE of half-DE shavettes, and to old-school straights. I currently have five AC shavettes; they all shave differently. I think they all shave better than any straight razor I ever tried.

AC blades last me about 15 shaves each, so they end up being chealer than DE blades on a per-shave basis.

If you want to try an AC shavette that shaves a lot like a real straight razor, pick up a Feather SR.

 

[DougAG]

I’m new to straight razors though I normally shave with a DE and have a Parker Shavette that works fine. I have a “shave ready” vintage razor and bought a Dovo Silver Steel which I sent out to one of the recommended finishers trying to find out what “shave ready” feels like. It still pulls/tugs when I shave with it.

So what can I do? I strop before and after but it’s still not comfortable. Will a finishing stone help or am I just spending more money? Can a straight razor get sharp enough to not pull on a heavy beard?

 

[silverlifter]

Can a straight razor get sharp enough to not pull on a heavy beard?

Absolutely. There are three contibuting factors (variables): a shave ready edge, good technique, good lather/prep. But the most important is the edge.

I have an old, coarse grey beard and I need to use quite a bit of force in some spots, but with a good edge, the shave is still comfortable.

 

[DougAG]

Absolutely. There are three contibuting factors (variables): a shave ready edge, good technique, good lather/prep. But the most important is the edge.

I have an old, coarse grey beard and I need to use quite a bit of force in some spots, but with a good edge, the shave is still comfortable.

I will keep working on the edge, I have the same old, coarse grey beard so you’ve given me hope. Unlike the shavette or DE it feels like I’m pulling the hair out instead of cutting it so the edge seems to be the factor.

 

[Stapelfeld]

I will keep working on the edge, I have the same old, coarse grey beard so you’ve given me hope. Unlike the shavette or DE it feels like I’m pulling the hair out instead of cutting it so the edge seems to be the factor.

I completly understand brother. I am relatively new to straight razors I think my journey is about 4 months into it. I was buying stones left and right and honing my cheap GD every day twice and three times shaving arm hair to see. I finally cracked the code for what works for me. I started with a shavette as well so I had a hard time with the straight razor but once you crack the code and get it properly honed it shaves as keenly as a straight razor but a little smoother in my opinion.