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Newbie restoration tips

Ok I've got 2 pretty 1891 wade and butcher frame back razors when I try to hone them the edge of the razors doesn't touch the stone. I'm not saying the stone is skinny. I have to put pressure on it for whole edge to touch stone. Also I have watched videos and for some reason those 2 won't pass arm hair test. But others on hone and reset bevel work just fine. I use the new Naniwa super stones. I've got 220, 1k, 3k, 8k and 12k
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
I use a dremel for polishing, but with a cork lined block of wood. The wood is a backer to keep you and the razor safe. Lay the bevel against the cork when you polish. Works really good.

I used buffing compounds. The black emory followed by the diamond white. I feel that I have not achieved results with rue to make it worth the effort.

I'm exploring how to make the razor and myself safe as I begin to use the Dremel for polishing. I've read a lot of threads but still don't quite have it all down.

I'm trying to visualize what you mean when you say a cork lined block of wood. It doesn't sound like something I can buy at Ace Hardware, but maybe I'm wrong.

Any pointers? Instructions on fabrication? Photos?

Thanks and happy shaves,

Jim
 
Ok I've got 2 pretty 1891 wade and butcher frame back razors when I try to hone them the edge of the razors doesn't touch the stone. I'm not saying the stone is skinny. I have to put pressure on it for whole edge to touch stone. Also I have watched videos and for some reason those 2 won't pass arm hair test. But others on hone and reset bevel work just fine. I use the new Naniwa super stones. I've got 220, 1k, 3k, 8k and 12k

Frame back razors are hard to hone you might find 2 layers of tape will help you hone them, if 2 layers is to much remove 1 layer and try it....
 
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