New to the straight razor world need help.

[Raymond Luxury Yacht]

Welcome to our world Ketchum!! Respect that blade and go into it knowing it takes a while to get the technique down. The first SR shave I did was very slow and methodical and when I was done I looked at my face and thought cool, I didn’t even cut myself. Then I splashed water and felt the result and thought wow, I didn’t shave either!! Bottom line is it WILL take a little while to learn but it’s very rewarding when you do. Don’t be afraid to ask any questions we love talking about this stuff.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ravenonrock]

Welcome! That’s a fine looking razor that should work out well for you. I like the thumb notch, nice. I used some Swedish steel yesterday, great feel. Hope you enjoy!

 

[Tomo]

Lovely razor. Almost too good for a first razor IMO. Be careful with it. They don’t make them anymore and a good example is hard to find.

 

[DrStrange]

Since the razors is about 5/8 all of the razors I mentioned above is out of the question. It doesn't seem to have much wear so I guess that it's the size it was made to be. I'm out on very thin ice here, but there was a transition from the razors I mentioned above to the M.K.No 29 to 33 series. My guess is that this "must" be one of those razors that never got its own number and never was sold in any larger numbers. In that case it should have been made after 1922, when Jernbolaget stopped its production of these razors, but before the production of the M.K.No 29 to 33 series started in the late 1920's. I'm sorry but this is the best I can do.
Is there anyone else that can be of help? I don't like this kind of mysteries. They tend to bug me until I spend too much time trying t find an answer.

What I do know however is that our new member @Ketchum has got himself a razor that, when properly honed, will be the only razor he'll ever need and that he doesn't have to wonder if there are other razors that would be considerably better, because there aren't. So get it honed (the B&B member Doc226 is a safe choice) and enjoy a totally different, but very enjoyable, shaving experience.

If you feel up to it, would you please take a look a the pictures in this post?

The World's Worst @Pinning the Straight Razor.

And one more thing, I dont use any washers when pinning, perhaps when you miss a hit the washers gap is causing the scale to snap at the end due to flex. Use brass instead of nickel and dont use washers inside next to the blade. All my vintages never had them so why start now. You will get a...

www.badgerandblade.com

What sets it apart from most other Heljestrands that I've seen or have seen pictures of,
is that it has both a thumb notch and also fine jimping.
It isn't labeled with a model number.

I'd like to know anything that you think you could tell me about it.
Thank you.

 

[Polarbeard]

If you feel up to it, would you please take a look a the pictures in this post?

The World's Worst @Pinning the Straight Razor.

And one more thing, I dont use any washers when pinning, perhaps when you miss a hit the washers gap is causing the scale to snap at the end due to flex. Use brass instead of nickel and dont use washers inside next to the blade. All my vintages never had them so why start now. You will get a...

www.badgerandblade.com

What sets it apart from most other Heljestrands that I've seen or have seen pictures of,
is that it has both a thumb notch and also fine jimping.
It isn't labeled with a model number.

I'd like to know anything that you think you could tell me about it.
Thank you.

First I must say that Heljestrand wasn't as consistent when it comes to razor marking as as the numbers might indicate. The razor in the thread that you link to is with 95 percent certainty a No.5 and not its twin the No.6. The reason is the point. I've only seen American points on No.5 and so far never on a No.6.

I've read posts saying that the No.5 is to be half hollow. I don't say that that's wrong, but the No.5 I gave away a few years ago definitely was full hollow. Even so if your razor is half hollow that kind of settles that it indeed is a No.5.

No.6 is always referred to as full hollow, and the one I've got is very full hollow and with a round point.

I hope the above is of some help.

The M.K. (Magnus Kindal) 29-33 series was intended for the export market (mainly France and the USA). The No.5, 6, 10 and 12 were intended for the domestic market and were basically the same blade, but without ivory scales and not having as refined styling of the thumb notch. They were never popular since the Swedes preferred smaller razors . The export versions No.30 (4/8) and 31 (5/8) did however become domestic bestsellers with or without ivory scales.

when it comes to more background you can find some here:

The history of the Heljestrand "M.K." series

Now and then someone ask me about the history of the Heljestrand M.K. thumb notch series, so I thought that I’d post my answer as a thread. Four or five years ago I asked myself the very same question as I had become the lucky owner of a Jernbolaget razor that pretty much was a Heljestrand M.K...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[DrStrange]

First I must say that Heljestrand wasn't as consistent when it comes to razor marking as as the numbers might indicate. The razor in the thread that you link to is with 95 percent certainty a No.5 and not its twin the No.6. The reason is the point. I've only seen American points on No.5 and so far never on a No.6.

I've read posts saying that the No.5 is to be half hollow. I don't say that that's wrong, but the No.5 I gave away a few years ago definitely was full hollow. Even so if your razor is half hollow that kind of settles that it indeed is a No.5.

No.6 is always referred to as full hollow, and the one I've got is very full hollow and with a round point.

I hope the above is of some help.
View attachment 1172560

The M.K. (Magnus Kindal) 29-33 series was intended for the export market (mainly France and the USA). The No.5, 6, 10 and 12 were intended for the domestic market and were basically the same blade, but without ivory scales and not having as refined styling of the thumb notch. They were never popular since the Swedes preferred smaller razors . The export versions No.30 (4/8) and 31 (5/8) did however become domestic bestsellers with or without ivory scales.

when it comes to more background you can find some here:

The history of the Heljestrand "M.K." series

Now and then someone ask me about the history of the Heljestrand M.K. thumb notch series, so I thought that I’d post my answer as a thread. Four or five years ago I asked myself the very same question as I had become the lucky owner of a Jernbolaget razor that pretty much was a Heljestrand M.K...

www.badgerandblade.com

Thank you.
Any thoughts about the extra fine jimping on my thumb notch?

 

[Polarbeard]

Thank you.
Any thoughts about the extra fine jimping on my thumb notch?

None at all looks like Heljestrand jimps to me.

 

[DrStrange]

None at all looks like Heljestrand jimps to me.

I was wondering if they might indicate
a time period or an intended market.

 

[Ketchum]

Thanks everyone. I plan to send it to @Doc226. What little rust it had came off with mineral oil. It looks to be in near perfect condition. I got it from an estate sell for 23$. I think I will be getting a different razor for shaving and preserve this one until I am no longer a novice. It’s such a treasure I would hate to mess it up.

 

[Tomo]

Thanks everyone. I plan to send it to @Doc226. What little rust it had came off with mineral oil. It looks to be in near perfect condition. I got it from an estate sell for 23$. I think I will be getting a different razor for shaving and preserve this one until I am no longer a novice. It’s such a treasure I would hate to mess it up.

Smart

 

[Polarbeard]

I was wondering if they might indicate
a time period or an intended market.

It was primarily intended for the Swedish market as a cheaper version of the M.K. No. 32 and 33, but sold wherever you could make a profit from selling it. I'm rather curious how some came to end up in the USA, the primary market for the luxury versions.

They were made from the mid twenties to the mid thirties.

 

[Ketchum]

What would the current value of this razor be?

 

[Ketchum]

The auction included other barber items so I believe it belonged to a barber. I regret not buying all the new old stock brushes now.

 

[Polarbeard]

What would the current value of this razor be?

The best way to find out is to do an eBay search for ended auctions. No evaluations are made at B&B.

 

[DrStrange]

It was primarily intended for the Swedish market as a cheaper version of the M.K. No. 32 and 33, but sold wherever you could make a profit from selling it. I'm rather curious how some came to end up in the USA, the primary market for the luxury versions.

They were made from the mid twenties to the mid thirties.

Thank you very much.

I got it from an American seller but
as for Swedish blades winding up in the USA,
there are a few Swedish sellers who use ebay,
and there is a market for Swedish razors here.
So, there is at least that one way for it to happen.

 

[Ketchum]

Thanks for all the info @Polarbeard. I don’t plan on selling but do plan on insuring it when I ship it to @Doc226. Our mail system isn’t all that great lately.

 

[Polarbeard]

Thanks for all the info @Polarbeard. I don’t plan on selling but do plan on insuring it when I ship it to @Doc226. Our mail system isn’t all that great lately.

You're welcome

 

[Polarbeard]

Thank you very much.

I got it from an American seller but
as for Swedish blades winding up in the USA,
there are a few Swedish sellers who use ebay,
and there is a market for Swedish razors here.
So, there is at least that one way for it to happen.

You're welcome. I believe you're right.

 

[McBlade]

I think I will be getting a different razor for shaving and preserve this one until I am no longer a novice. It’s such a treasure I would hate to mess it up.

You could try a cheap shavette which takes Feather AC style blades eg the Bluebeard's Revenge (the blade won't fit on the pins but friction seems to hold it in place just fine) or a Feather DX clone.

A shavette with a sharp blade is quite difficult to master (don't even think about half-DE blades..) but the milder Feather AC-style blades like Kai Titan Mild or Schick Proline are much closer to the straight razor experience.

I'd also recommend a soap which has a 10/10 rating for slickness. Tabac for example. Or Mitchell's Wool Fat, if you can figure out how to build a lather. It's a great soap but some people seem to struggle.

It took me about three weeks to feel comfortable using a straight. Still had plenty to learn but by this stage I wasn't worrying about cutting myself I was mostly just thinking about cutting hair. Good soap, stretch the skin, and a light touch.