New Supply Co. Blades Rusting in Mint Condition Schick Type M

[BBS-1]

Thanks. I just took a look and on the sides of the head I can see reddish brown where the cap meets the blade. So this happened in the last few hours. I stuck the key in but didnt see anything on the upper part of the blade that was now exposed.

So even though it looked mint maybe if was used a lot by a very careful owner. Or maybe it was never sealed/ plated properly when manufactured. In either case I had bad luck from the shaving gods.

So I will either return it or just dip in alcohol after rinsing from now on. I am hesitant to buy another if I return it, since it seems even in mint condition there can be problems. I am just surprised I have never read about this problem before.

Thanks again

Vintage is almost always a roll of the dice. As long that staining doesn't get on the blade edge itself and you also use witch hazel which will help disinfect any cuts or anything with alcohol in it as part of your post shave routine I wouldn't be personally concerned. Usually witch hazel is distilled with alcohol so you get a 2 for 1 benefit in that regard unless you use alcohol free witch hazel, something I do because alcohol dries out the skin.

 

[Rich_C]

Vintage is almost always a roll of the dice. As long that staining doesn't get on the blade edge itself and you also use witch hazel which will help disinfect any cuts or anything with alcohol in it as part of your post shave routine I wouldn't be personally concerned. Usually witch hazel is distilled with alcohol so you get a 2 for 1 benefit in that regard unless you use alcohol free witch hazel, something I do because alcohol dries out the skin.

Thanks.
I use after shave with alcohol all the time. I have used witch hazel with alcohol too but not recently.
It is probably best just to sacrifice a blade and just do the alcohol dipping from now on. I am still just so suprised how easy it is to shave with the Type M since side by side with the Supply all the angles are the same. I bumped the dial up to 3.5 today and will probably go to 4 tomorrow which will make the blade exposure just about the same as on the Supply on the one dot plate.

 

[Rich_C]

Regarding the Supply, I got the alloy model. I dont know if the finish will eventually wear off from injecting blades, so I think I will manually load. I dont know if it will react with the blades like on the Schick. I am worried that the threads on the screw hole will eventually wear out, though. It is waranteed for 100 years but who knows how long they will be in business.

I think I have discovered whats wrong with the Supply in terms of ease of use. Held side by side, with the blades lined up at the same level, with the Supply on the one dot, and the Schick dial on 4, to the naked eye the blade exposure looks the same. The cap on the Supply, however, is a bit higher than on the Schick, which makes you shave at a steeper angle or else it wont shave. (Higher meaning when the razor is held with the top of the cap pointing up, handle perpendicular to the floor). And for a setting they call sensitive, I think it is still pretty aggressive.

With the Schick I just started shaving with no issues. I didnt have to rest the cap on my face and then tilt until it started shaving. It is like using a Trac II.

 

[ShaverAZ]

Be cautious when using alcohol. It not only absorbs water from wet surfaces, but can absorb water from the air. Alcohol may also wreck your plastic over time. I use A can of compressed air, of the kind used on computer keyboards & components.

 

[Rich_C]

Be cautious when using alcohol. It not only absorbs water from wet surfaces, but can absorb water from the air. Alcohol may also wreck your plastic over time. I use A can of compressed air, of the kind used on computer keyboards & components.

I definitely dont use it on the plastic part, but I heard cart users say they leave the cart soaking in alcohol until the next shave!

I havent bought a can of compressed air in ages and my keyboards are all fine. I usually just blow on the blades. But the injectors have the nooks and crannys that I guess the compressed air can get to better.

I am not too worried about the alcohol absorbing water from the air. I think just wiping it down, except for the blade edge, and then blowing on it will be enough. Alcohol evaporates quickly, doesnt it? I store my razor in the medicine cabinet, which I know isnt recommended right after the shave, but I have been doing it all my life. Ive never had an issue and always just shook the razor dry until a couple of years ago. But I am new to injectors. And if someone takes a shower I think the closed medicine cabinet will do more to protect it from moisture.

Does all that make sense, or am I talking out of my a**? Lol

thanks

 

[ShaverAZ]

IMO, You have a valid concern. But dunking & storing a razor in a glass of alcohol is for amateurs. It will still absorb sufficient water to become of limited use.
Ever since I was a little kid, Dad had a small bottle of stuff on a shelf in the wood shop. It was passed on to him from his Dad, who worked in HIS Dad's Iron Foundry as a patternmaker while in college.
The bottle contained a mixture that freshly sharpened wood chisels, and those not in use was coated with. I have a pair of the stones that were originally in the foundry wood shop that Grandpa later acquired & used for his straight razors. The bottle of oil was a mix of lanolin and some other oil & worked well enough that the 100 year old chisels that my Dad had were spotless.
Researching "blade oils" I found an article for a classic blade oil used on Japanese Katanas, many several hundred years old, and still spotless. It's just a mix of equal parts of Camellia Oil and Lanolin. I suspect Grandpa's stuff was lanolin and either whale oil or castor oil - either would work.
The goal is to coat a blade with something that keeps oxygen in the air from reaching the blade. Anything would actually work, but something that won't react with your skin is a bonus. Lanolin + olive oil, mineral oil or about any oil you'd put on your face will work. Vaseline would work, too.
I have some carbon steel double edge blades that dull quickly, but can be successfully stropped (stainless blades can't be stropped). The Lanolin + oil blend applied along the blade edges makes a noticible difference when storing a blade overnite or until the next shave.

 

[FarmerTan]

IMO, You have a valid concern. But dunking & storing a razor in a glass of alcohol is for amateurs. It will still absorb sufficient water to become of limited use.
Ever since I was a little kid, Dad had a small bottle of stuff on a shelf in the wood shop. It was passed on to him from his Dad, who worked in HIS Dad's Iron Foundry as a patternmaker while in college.
The bottle contained a mixture that freshly sharpened wood chisels, and those not in use was coated with. I have a pair of the stones that were originally in the foundry wood shop that Grandpa later acquired & used for his straight razors. The bottle of oil was a mix of lanolin and some other oil & worked well enough that the 100 year old chisels that my Dad had were spotless.
Researching "blade oils" I found an article for a classic blade oil used on Japanese Katanas, many several hundred years old, and still spotless. It's just a mix of equal parts of Camellia Oil and Lanolin. I suspect Grandpa's stuff was lanolin and either whale oil or castor oil - either would work.
The goal is to coat a blade with something that keeps oxygen in the air from reaching the blade. Anything would actually work, but something that won't react with your skin is a bonus. Lanolin + olive oil, mineral oil or about any oil you'd put on your face will work. Vaseline would work, too.
I have some carbon steel double edge blades that dull quickly, but can be successfully stropped (stainless blades can't be stropped). The Lanolin + oil blend applied along the blade edges makes a noticible difference when storing a blade overnite or until the next shave.

Thanks for the excellent post!

 

[Rich_C]

IMO, You have a valid concern. But dunking & storing a razor in a glass of alcohol is for amateurs. It will still absorb sufficient water to become of limited use.
Ever since I was a little kid, Dad had a small bottle of stuff on a shelf in the wood shop. It was passed on to him from his Dad, who worked in HIS Dad's Iron Foundry as a patternmaker while in college.
The bottle contained a mixture that freshly sharpened wood chisels, and those not in use was coated with. I have a pair of the stones that were originally in the foundry wood shop that Grandpa later acquired & used for his straight razors. The bottle of oil was a mix of lanolin and some other oil & worked well enough that the 100 year old chisels that my Dad had were spotless.
Researching "blade oils" I found an article for a classic blade oil used on Japanese Katanas, many several hundred years old, and still spotless. It's just a mix of equal parts of Camellia Oil and Lanolin. I suspect Grandpa's stuff was lanolin and either whale oil or castor oil - either would work.
The goal is to coat a blade with something that keeps oxygen in the air from reaching the blade. Anything would actually work, but something that won't react with your skin is a bonus. Lanolin + olive oil, mineral oil or about any oil you'd put on your face will work. Vaseline would work, too.
I have some carbon steel double edge blades that dull quickly, but can be successfully stropped (stainless blades can't be stropped). The Lanolin + oil blend applied along the blade edges makes a noticible difference when storing a blade overnite or until the next shave.

Thanks.

I am not looking to extend blade life since I have never had an issue where any type of cart or blade didnt last at least 7 shaves. I shave every day so I dont give my blades any heavy lifting. Also, it is the razor staining the blade if I understand it correctly, not vice versa.

I would be a little concerned about the effect the oil would have on the injector razors mechanism. I was originally concerned about rust but from the replies I have gotten it is not rust just staining. Since it is not getting on the cutting edge I probably dont have to worry too much. And I already discovered today that the stain that is visible is easily wiped off with a tissue dampened with some alcohol.

Dont get me wrong, I appreciate your advice and knowledge, but if I need to do that much every day to maintain the razor then maybe a Schick injector is not for me.

I will try the “dip in the alcohol for a few seconds” method and see what happens. I will also contact the ebay seller since he has a 30 day free return policy. It was advertised as “minty” and showed no signs of use, as if it just rolled off the assembly line. But if the coating/sealing was worn off then it is not minty. He only lists vintage razors on ebay so he is probably knowledgeable and will understand the issue. It is not someone who found it in a box of grandpas old stuff. Thats why I ordered with confidence and his pics confirmed its mintyness.

thanks again

 

[Whiterook]

Last night while sipping an adult beverage and perusing Youtube I watched a shaving video done by a gent in Australia who used a Gem G-bar. Afterwards he sprayed the razor and blade with something called Shaver Guard and extolled its virtues. This product appears to be intended for electric shavers!

Guard Grooming | Shaver Guard+™ Lubricant & Sanitising Cleaning Spray 100g | Shaver Shop

Shop the Shaver Guard+™ Lubricant & Sanitising Cleaning Spray 100g by Guard Grooming at shavershop.com.au.

www.shavershop.com.au

Has anyone tried such a product on safety razors? It is available on ebay.

 

[ShaverAZ]

Last night while sipping an adult beverage and perusing Youtube I watched a shaving video done by a gent in Australia who used a Gem G-bar. Afterwards he sprayed the razor and blade with something called Shaver Guard and extolled its virtues. This product appears to be intended for electric shavers!

Guard Grooming | Shaver Guard+™ Lubricant & Sanitising Cleaning Spray 100g | Shaver Shop

Shop the Shaver Guard+™ Lubricant & Sanitising Cleaning Spray 100g by Guard Grooming at shavershop.com.au.

www.shavershop.com.au

Has anyone tried such a product on safety razors? It is available on ebay.

It's primarily mineral oil.

 

[Whiterook]

I am sure that is the main ingredient, along with some scent. It may be more convenient than dunking the razor in oil and then having to deal with the excess.

 

[Rich_C]

The dipping in alcohol seems to be working. By this time yesterday I could see reddish brown marks but none today. I also threw caution to the wind and didnt change the blade, so this was the third shave on that blade. I kicked the dial up to 4 and it is getting better and better. I must say this is probably the most impressive razor I have ever used.

The type M should have and should still be kicking butt!

I refuse to be a slave to an inanimate object like a razor. I dont mind soaking the head in alcohol while I rinse my face, brush, and bowl and applying aftershave. A quick wipe of the razor except the cutting edge, blowing on it to remove any excess, and I am done. Anything more than that if this does not continue to work and I will just chalk it up to learning and not sweat the money spent on it.

Thanks for everyones advice and I am still open to more opinions from additional people.

 

[santamariasteve]

Brother Rich,

I have read through this thread, and I'm shaking my head in kind disbelief.

With respect to all, aren't we getting a tad "anal retentive" about cleaning a razor after we shave? A razor is only a tool. Some of my Schick injectors date back to the 1930's and they show no deterioration. I doubt if they have had the type if physical care over the decades that is being sought, promoted and idolized in this thread.

Do we clean our tooth brush with such extreme fastidiousness after each time we brush our chompers? Do we clean the top and the undercarriage of our lawn mower with such thorough care after each time we mow the lawn?

Toothbrushes, lawnmowers, and razors have at least one thing in common. They are tools, nothing less and nothing more. They are not more important than the appearance of our teeth, the appearance of our lawns, and the appearance of our faces.

To be clear, I too am a big fan of cleanliness and preventive maintenance, but even that has limitations. At some point the unwritten "law of diminishing returns" invariably will set in. Invariably.

 

[Rich_C]

Brother Rich,

I have read through this thread, and I'm shaking my head in kind disbelief.

With respect to all, aren't we getting a tad "anal retentive" about cleaning a razor after we shave? A razor is only a tool. Some of my Schick injectors date back to the 1930's and they show no deterioration. I doubt if they have had the type if physical care over the decades that is being sought, promoted and idolized in this thread.

Do we clean our tooth brush with such extreme fastidiousness after each time we brush our chompers? Do we clean the top and the undercarriage of our lawn mower with such thorough care after each time we mow the lawn?

Toothbrushes, lawnmowers, and razors have at least one thing in common. They are tools, nothing less and nothing more. They are not more important than the appearance of our teeth, the appearance of our lawns, and the appearance of our faces.

To be clear, I too am a big fan of cleanliness and preventive maintenance, but even that has limitations. At some point the unwritten "law of diminishing returns" invariably will set in. Invariably.

Brother santamariasteve,

I just didn’t want to shave with a rusting razor, since I am sure you will agree that is dangerous. Also any rot or corrosion or whatever potentially dripping down onto the cutting edge while shaving probably would not be a good thing either. But I believe the solution of dipping in alcohol for a few minutes has solved the issue.

I completely understand your point. I just didnt want to have to get a tetanus shot every time I shaved, lol.

I appreciate everyone’s input, point of view, and expertise in helping me both understand and solve the problem. I believe in KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid) so I opted for the dip in alcohol. I am not going to lose sleep over this $52 razor. Nor will I be a slave to it. If it continues to rot or oxidize or have galvanic reactions I will just throw it in the trash.

When I went to bed last night I started laughing at this thought: I never thought I would need a masters in metallurgy to use a bleeping razor.
It is bad enough that you need a protractor to use the Supply razor. If you are 1 degree off up or down and it either doesn’t shave or you get cuts and razor burn.

No disrespect to anyone and kind regards to all.

thanks

 

[santamariasteve]

I just googled "is rust dangerous?" The answers were interesting and informative.

 

[romsitsa]

Some blades will rust, I have no clue when or why, it’s seemingly random. A NOS vintage Wilkinson rusted into a silver plated brass razor overnight, the next one, from the same pack, showed no sign of rust.

Adam

 

[FaceScraper]

I think I have discovered whats wrong with the Supply in terms of ease of use. Held side by side, with the blades lined up at the same level, with the Supply on the one dot, and the Schick dial on 4, to the naked eye the blade exposure looks the same. The cap on the Supply, however, is a bit higher than on the Schick, which makes you shave at a steeper angle or else it wont shave. (Higher meaning when the razor is held with the top of the cap pointing up, handle perpendicular to the floor). And for a setting they call sensitive, I think it is still pretty aggressive.

With the Schick I just started shaving with no issues. I didnt have to rest the cap on my face and then tilt until it started shaving. It is like using a Trac II.

Hi @Rich_C i mentioned this exact observation a couple weeks ago when i looked at my supply vs my injector Model N. The top cap of the supply a lot thicker than on the injector N which affects the angle you need to be at to get a shave. Even when adjusting the angle it didnt feel right. The Schick N is just pick up and shave.

And im glad you feel the same as me, the schick is like using a Trac II. Brain dead easy.

I have been using injectors for a few weeks now and i honestly feel they seem to be a perfect hybrid of DE and Carts. As easy to use as carts but with the benefit of single edge irritation free shaving.

 

[Rich_C]

Hi @Rich_C i mentioned this exact observation a couple weeks ago when i looked at my supply vs my injector Model N. The top cap of the supply a lot thicker than on the injector N which affects the angle you need to be at to get a shave. Even when adjusting the angle it didnt feel right. The Schick N is just pick up and shave.

And im glad you feel the same as me, the schick is like using a Trac II. Brain dead easy.

I have been using injectors for a few weeks now and i honestly feel they seem to be a perfect hybrid of DE and Carts. As easy to use as carts but with the benefit of single edge irritation free shaving.

Yes the Supply seems to force you to use too steep an angle or it wont cut hair.

 

[Rich_C]

I know I am beating this issue to death but today I removed the blade and stuck some dental floss in there but it didnt remove anything because I think this razor was hardly used. I stuck the key in and cleaned off some reddish brown stains as more of the part under the blade was exposed and I didnt see any coating or anything else worn away. Impossible too see the part that rests on top of blade but the blade had the stains on the underside mostly and hardly any on the top.

Also since brass contains copper shouldnt it be more of the familiar darker brass color as in older injectors rather then the mirror like silver color? Unless the coating hides the brass color.

Now the instructions that come in the Supply box says never to inject a blade into an empty razor since it will ruin the finish and void the warranty. And I have read that the old Schicks were designed to always have a blade in it and when they were new had a blank blade loaded already.

My mint looking Type M had no blade in it when I got it so maybe when I injected the first blade it ruined the finish and that is why it is reacting badly with the blade? But again from what I can see no finish seems to have been ruined since I dont see any damage nor do I see any color that looks like brass, if it is indeed made of brass.

In any case the alcohol is working but I installed a fresh blade after todays shave since I scraped the old blade edge unavoidably when I removed it to give the razor a more thorough cleaning.

thanks

 

[santamariasteve]

I know I am beating this issue to death but today I removed the blade and stuck some dental floss in there but it didnt remove anything because I think this razor was hardly used. I stuck the key in and cleaned off some reddish brown stains as more of the part under the blade was exposed and I didnt see any coating or anything else worn away. Impossible too see the part that rests on top of blade but the blade had the stains on the underside mostly and hardly any on the top.

Also since brass contains copper shouldnt it be more of the familiar darker brass color as in older injectors rather then the mirror like silver color? Unless the coating hides the brass color.

Now the instructions that come in the Supply box says never to inject a blade into an empty razor since it will ruin the finish and void the warranty. And I have read that the old Schicks were designed to always have a blade in it and when they were new had a blank blade loaded already.

My mint looking Type M had no blade in it when I got it so maybe when I injected the first blade it ruined the finish and that is why it is reacting badly with the blade? But again from what I can see no finish seems to have been ruined since I dont see any damage nor do I see any color that looks like brass, if it is indeed made of brass.

In any case the alcohol is working but I installed a fresh blade after todays shave since I scraped the old blade edge unavoidably when I removed it to give the razor a more thorough cleaning.

thanks

Rich, m' man, you're way over thinking it. There is no problem.

A few grains of rust won't harm you. A tiny bit of rust might even benefit you if you're iron deficient. I don't believe you'll ever find a documented case of a human shaver sickening or dying because of a modicum of rust deep in the bowels of some razor. Just load the blade and SHAVE.

Every time you load (with the key) a blade into an injector razor the sliding action has a self-cleaning effect on the blade chamber. That's all the interior cleaning it needs, assuming you rinse the razor after each shave. Google around for the factory instructions for Schick injector Razor. I have 'em, and they make no mention of your concerns about rust and health.

I've used Schick Injector razors off and on since 1957 with zero health problems.

BTW how do you feel about a cast iron skillet that might occasionally pick up a smidgeon of rust if it was not thoroughly dried?