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New score! Need advice.

OK...I picked this up recently. The box is nice even if it is in soso condition. I dig the little shelf that moves up and down when it opens. Blade holder is missing and the U shaped thing is rather bent. The razor is definitely user grade and I'm contemplating on replating it. Well, if I can repair it.

The issue is the threads are quite worn down. So much so that I think only the last one or two holds everything together. Basically, if you twist it to open about 1/3 of a turn it comes undone. The only solution I've arrived at is using a Helicoil. So, anybody every run into this issue and actually fixed it??

N.B. I'll have to score some batteries tomorrow and upload pictures of the threads on the razor. My camera died taking these pictures. :mad3:

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Some kid probably got ahold of it and tried to over-tighten it and stripped the threads. I don't even know how you go about re-threading it, if that's even possible. Decent looking set though. The auto-lifting tray was an ingenius design and one of the most striking sets Gillette made, I think.
 
Threads on the shaft, or in the handle collet? If its the collet that is stripped, I have 10-32 Helicoils, tap, etc..
 
Congrats! The Bostonian is a cool set, and many will agree that the New Improved series razor is one of Gillette's best shaves!

On your threads - it may not be "stripped" but worn in both the cap and handle threads. Sometimes swapping just one part with another like razor will have them both working. Doing a Helicoil on the handle threads may work, unless the cap threads are visibly stripped.

If the end of the cap threads are shot, you might be able to run a 10-32 die up the threads, and rebuild the lower end with JB Weld epoxy. Once the epoxy cures, you run the die off to cut matching threads in the JB Weld. (JB Weld is somewhat machineable - it can be drilled and tapped, so why not cut threads the other way?)
 
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Congrats! The Bostonian is a cool set, and many will agree that the New Improved series razor is one of Gillette's best shaves!

On your threads - it may not be "stripped" but worn in both the cap and handle threads. Sometimes swapping just one part with another like razor will have them both working. Doing a Helicoil on the handle threads may work, unless the cap threads are visibly stripped.

If the end of the cap threads are shot, you might be able to run a 10-32 die up the threads, and rebuild the lower end with JB Weld epoxy. Once the epoxy cures, you run the die off to cut matching threads in the JB Weld. (JB Weld is somewhat machineable - it can be drilled and tapped, so why not cut threads the other way?)

Thanks! I am fairly certain the cap threads are worn. The handle's threads look OK from what I can tell. I know that you can take the two and put them together all the way then make a 1/3 of a turn (if that) and that's all that holds.

I'll have to look around the shop and see if I have a 10-32 bolt and test the handle out better. I'm quite sure I'll need to take a die to the cap. Thanks for the JB Weld info! I briefly thought of something like that but wasn't sure. Helicoil was what I concentrated on.
 
Thanks! I am fairly certain the cap threads are worn. The handle's threads look OK from what I can tell. I know that you can take the two and put them together all the way then make a 1/3 of a turn (if that) and that's all that holds.

I'll have to look around the shop and see if I have a 10-32 bolt and test the handle out better. I'm quite sure I'll need to take a die to the cap. Thanks for the JB Weld info! I briefly thought of something like that but wasn't sure. Helicoil was what I concentrated on.
JB weld has problems with moisture, and certainly can't be replated. You might be better off cutting the shaft off, threading the stub for 10-32, and using a male-female round body adaptor to replace it. That could be silver-soldered in place, and could be refinished, should you decide to go that route.
 
OK. I somehow got lucky enough to find a 10-32 machine screw. I tested it with the handle bit. Those threads are fine. I also found some 10-32 Helicoils. They won't grip the threads on the cap. It will grip the last thread if you keep fiddling with it. I could take a die to the cap but I'll need a smaller Helicoil. I hate the idea of drilling and tapping the handle just to use what I got :bored:
 
JB weld has problems with moisture, and certainly can't be replated. You might be better off cutting the shaft off, threading the stub for 10-32, and using a male-female round body adaptor to replace it. That could be silver-soldered in place, and could be refinished, should you decide to go that route.

Yeah I knew it couldn't be replated. I was pretty sure the threads on the cap was the issue and know I know that for sure.
 
OK, gents, here is the latest. The handle's threads are good, checked with a 10-32 machine screw. I have some 10-32 Helicoils but that means drilling the handle out one size bigger and using a tap to make new threads. The cap is what had the worn threads. Almost all threads were worn down to a nub. After fiddling with it for an hour today I arrived at the conclusion that all I could do was use a die and rethread it. Only problem was what it was so worn down I had to use a 4.5x.75 die. So now the 10-32 Helicoil is too big. :a31:

So, the question is....what is a size down from 10-32? Would it fit into the handle without having to drill/tap and would it be enough to grab onto the newly threaded cap? I'm kinda at a stuck point. I'm not too good with taps/dies using little numbers. :bored:
 
OK, gents, here is the latest. The handle's threads are good, checked with a 10-32 machine screw. I have some 10-32 Helicoils but that means drilling the handle out one size bigger and using a tap to make new threads. The cap is what had the worn threads. Almost all threads were worn down to a nub. After fiddling with it for an hour today I arrived at the conclusion that all I could do was use a die and rethread it. Only problem was what it was so worn down I had to use a 4.5x.75 die. So now the 10-32 Helicoil is too big. :a31:

So, the question is....what is a size down from 10-32? Would it fit into the handle without having to drill/tap and would it be enough to grab onto the newly threaded cap? I'm kinda at a stuck point. I'm not too good with taps/dies using little numbers. :bored:

I would just buy another one:mellow:
 
If you have cut 4.5 - .75 metric threads on the cap, you have to helicoil the handle with 4.5 - .75 to match.
 
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