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New Merkur Progress: Aggressive? Ohhh, yeah

Hello, all,

I haven't posted in some time. First there was the distraction of my new-to-me '15 BMW 328i in early 2019; then the distraction of having it totaled in a flood that summer, and of buying a very nice '16 Buick LaCrosse to replace it; and this year the big nationwide panic and having to set up home Internet and work from my dining table. Through it all, however, I have continued to DE shave and to read here.

Two weeks ago, reading about Merkur's possible (or probable?) bankruptcy, and having always liked the Progress's looks and its good reviews here and elsewhere, I bought one. It's the travel set in the black-and-clear case. On Tuesday last I researched how to put in the blade and to align the head arrow, had a 2-day beard, and used a new Wilkinson Sword blade and Tabac stick. I was careful to set it to the mildest setting, the 1.

Result: peculiar. Even at 1 the razor seems quite a bit more aggressive on my beard than, say, my Slim at 7. I took the route around my face very carefully, and wound up with a nick on my lower lip, admittedly my weak spot. Two passes on the cheeks and lip, three on the throat, as I usually do with a 2-day beard. And as I cleaned up on my throat, I noticed that the skin no longer felt slick. The razor did not seem to glide as my razors usually do, whether I use cream or soap.

Well. No burn, and a very close shave.

I repeated the same shave, all the conditions the same, this morning, 48 hours later. Another mild nick on the lower lip in the same spot, a tiny dot of blood on the left cheek (extremely rare for me), and again the sensation of the skin not being slick at all as I wound up the shave.

Again no burn. But I wonder: Is this razor really this aggressive? I've been DE shaving for 8 years now, and even my Hoffritz slant, my other close shave champ, doesn't nick me or give me the impression that it has used up my soap!

Did I just get an odd one -- or is this razor not right for someone who loves his Slim, his Tech, and his NEW?
 
On setting #1 it is very mild although it does have positive blade exposure but not enough to cause a problem. I think you need to get to know it a bit better. I assume you locked it down and then released it a little to setting #1!
 
I find setting two matches the blade gap of a 34C, and as a result, gives a very mild shave comparable to the 34C.

I have found it to not like my Astra SPs, which were fine in the 34C. Shaves with this blade gave irritation and some nicks. I've swapped over to Gillette Nacets with the Progress and have had nothing but great shaves since (4 WTG, 3 XTG, 2 ATG)
 
Two points. First, do you have the cap aligned correctly? The triangle on the base and the line on the top cap must be aligned to the same side. Second, be sure the razor is completely tightened before setting the correct number. If you don't do that procedure you could be shaving at a far more aggressive setting. I can tell you that from experience. One time I changed blades on my Progress but did not tighten it all the way. I ended up scraping my face because the setting was for the second 2+ (when you go around the setting completely.)
 
Two points. First, do you have the cap aligned correctly? The triangle on the base and the line on the top cap must be aligned to the same side. Second, be sure the razor is completely tightened before setting the correct number. If you don't do that procedure you could be shaving at a far more aggressive setting. I can tell you that from experience. One time I changed blades on my Progress but did not tighten it all the way. I ended up scraping my face because the setting was for the second 2+ (when you go around the setting completely.)
The alignment, yes, I read about that here and elsewhere, and it is correct. Not sure about the other. I open the razor to change blades by turning the ivory-colored knob to the left. Then when I close the razor again preparatory to shaving, are you saying I need to make one complete circuit of the knob to the right to "lock it down," and only then set it to my preferred level? No instructions were in the box, so I was going on what I've found on the 'Net.
 
The alignment, yes, I read about that here and elsewhere, and it is correct. Not sure about the other. I open the razor to change blades by turning the ivory-colored knob to the left. Then when I close the razor again preparatory to shaving, are you saying I need to make one complete circuit of the knob to the right to "lock it down," and only then set it to my preferred level? No instructions were in the box, so I was going on what I've found on the 'Net.

Turn it completely until you can't turn it any further. It may take more than one revolution. Then adjust the razor by loosening the setting. The number 1 may be different from razor to razor.
 
The alignment, yes, I read about that here and elsewhere, and it is correct. Not sure about the other. I open the razor to change blades by turning the ivory-colored knob to the left. Then when I close the razor again preparatory to shaving, are you saying I need to make one complete circuit of the knob to the right to "lock it down," and only then set it to my preferred level? No instructions were in the box, so I was going on what I've found on the 'Net.
Proper procedure would be to fully tighten the razor then make your adjustment on the Progress dial.

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Turn it completely until you can't turn it any further. It may take more than one revolution. Then adjust the razor by loosening the setting. The number 1 may be different from razor to razor.
So I was pretty much running it wide open, like a Slim at 9 or something?

Okay, I just tightened the knob until it would go no more. The dot on the handle is now aligned with the "2"; I can't select the "1." Would that merely be a characteristic of this particular razor? The locked-down position is the mildest setting even if it's not "1," and if I want more aggressiveness I would loosen it to 2.5 or more?
 
So I was pretty much running it wide open, like a Slim at 9 or something?

Okay, I just tightened the knob until it would go no more. The dot on the handle is now aligned with the "2"; I can't select the "1." Would that merely be a characteristic of this particular razor? The locked-down position is the mildest setting even if it's not "1," and if I want more aggressiveness I would loosen it to 2.5 or more?
Yes it doesn't matter where it locks down on the dial as long as it is consistent. Just that your 3.5 may be 2.5 on another razor. Mine locks down at .5 . It's also 40 years old though.

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I'll give the Merkur another try on Saturday -- a 48-hour beard is best for me, and I want to keep the variables to a minimum -- and report back.
 
So I was pretty much running it wide open, like a Slim at 9 or something?

Okay, I just tightened the knob until it would go no more. The dot on the handle is now aligned with the "2"; I can't select the "1." Would that merely be a characteristic of this particular razor? The locked-down position is the mildest setting even if it's not "1," and if I want more aggressiveness I would loosen it to 2.5 or more?
There are Youtube videos on how to correct this - Mantic59/Sharpologist may even have one. I had one that needed to be recalibrated this way too. Basically, without a blade in it, hold the head of the razor thumb on top, index & middle finger underneath, squeeze down & hold; then you can align the dot to the one.
 
There are Youtube videos on how to correct this - Mantic59/Sharpologist may even have one. I had one that needed to be recalibrated this way too. Basically, without a blade in it, hold the head of the razor thumb on top, index & middle finger underneath, squeeze down & hold; then you can align the dot to the one.
I saw at least one video explaining to squeeze the head like that when you're putting the blade in, and I did that. I'll try it again to see if I can get it to set at "1."
 
Great info in this thread. After hearing about the financial issues I bought one as well. I haven't used it yet.
 
Gentlemen, I think the problem is solved.

Load blade and be sure cap is in correct orientation. Tighten the knob until it stops. Disregard the number as they are not calibrated correctly. (So much for famed German engineering!) Loosen the knob maybe 1/4 turn and shave. Fine tune the knob as necessary. (Loosening the knob will make the razor more aggressive, and vice versa.) When it's perfect for your face, note that number and use that setting in the future. Consider it to be your PIN number. 🙂

The Merkur Progress is one of the world's great razors, but for some reason the numbered calibrations are different and meaningless on each razor.

Let us know how the shaves go.
 
Gentlemen, I think the problem is solved.

Load blade and be sure cap is in correct orientation. Tighten the knob until it stops. Disregard the number as they are not calibrated correctly. (So much for famed German engineering!) Loosen the knob maybe 1/4 to 1/2 turn and shave. Fine tune the knob as necessary. (Loosening the knob will make the razor more aggressive, and vice versa.) When it's perfect for your face, note that number and use that setting in the future. Consider it to be your PIN number. 🙂

The Merkur Progress is one of the world's great razors, but for some reason the calibrations are different and meaningless on each razor.

Let us know how the shaves go.
I'll warrant you're right. My research, here and elsewhere, did not mention -- or I missed -- the part about tightening the knob all the way first!
 
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