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I’ve been using DE for the past 7 years and have focused on the Old Types lately. Won a Khaki set at auction with no apparent cracks in the handle and felt pretty happy. This was a lot purchase and after looking at the Old Type again, I checked the rest.

Within the lot is a straight razor with “992” in gold on the blade. The scales are a light color and have no idea what they are made of. I’ve included some pics. There is some corrosion visible on the spine and some more bits here and there. Hard to tell from the pics but there could be some small chips there also.

It looks like it was a beautiful razor back in the day. I’d like to try and restore it myself, but haven’t attempted any such thing with a straight before. Is this something I should attempt with limited experience or should I send it to a vendor? Even if it wouldn’t be perfect, I’d still like to try to restore it in some way, even to hang on a wall but would prefer to use it. Looks to be quite old, but have no idea who made it.

The lot also came with an old leather strop. Can old strops be used again after a good cleaning? Sanitary?

I’m out of my element on this one. I was pleasantly surprised because I always wanted to try to shave with a straight at some point and have been following them on auction lately and on BST. I can think of some great vendors on the DE side but with regards to straights, I’m out of my element.
 

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Do you have a picture of the shank. The thin part between the blade and scales. That is usually where straight razors are stamped.
 
Here is another picture. I probably won’t receive it for another week after asking them to postpone shipping, have to go out of town next week.

You know what that is below it? Don’t have a clue to what that is
 

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Should be a j.r. Torrey razor. If you really want to i think you can get it cleaned and set for shaving. Many different methods to do so. I couldn't see sending my early straights to someone else. I can do this. Right? Well I broke the first one. To clean I just used alcohol with paper towels and q tips. To hone I started with sand paper. go slow and try not to finish in one day. Sand paper up to 2500 is at wall Mart. Then lapping film to continue up to 16,000. The lapping film I got from a sharpening supply.most reference to lapping film is in microns . I only know of what I had. Can't remember which bit pink and green were the final. Again there are many ways to achieve what you desire. Good luck and my 992 is a great shaver . Look up strazors.com for info on your blade. The Torrey razor company.
 
Should be a j.r. Torrey razor. If you really want to i think you can get it cleaned and set for shaving. Many different methods to do so. I couldn't see sending my early straights to someone else. I can do this. Right? Well I broke the first one. To clean I just used alcohol with paper towels and q tips. To hone I started with sand paper. go slow and try not to finish in one day. Sand paper up to 2500 is at wall Mart. Then lapping film to continue up to 16,000. The lapping film I got from a sharpening supply.most reference to lapping film is in microns . I only know of what I had. Can't remember which bit pink and green were the final. Again there are many ways to achieve what you desire. Good luck and my 992 is a great shaver . Look up strazors.com for info on your blade. The Torrey razor company.

If there are some small chips on the edge, does this mean the “992” is as good as gone or could a professional work around this? I’d love to shave with it but wouldn’t have the heart to do that.
 
I’ve been using DE for the past 7 years and have focused on the Old Types lately. Won a Khaki set at auction with no apparent cracks in the handle and felt pretty happy. This was a lot purchase and after looking at the Old Type again, I checked the rest.

Within the lot is a straight razor with “992” in gold on the blade. The scales are a light color and have no idea what they are made of. I’ve included some pics. There is some corrosion visible on the spine and some more bits here and there. Hard to tell from the pics but there could be some small chips there also.

It looks like it was a beautiful razor back in the day. I’d like to try and restore it myself, but haven’t attempted any such thing with a straight before. Is this something I should attempt with limited experience or should I send it to a vendor? Even if it wouldn’t be perfect, I’d still like to try to restore it in some way, even to hang on a wall but would prefer to use it. Looks to be quite old, but have no idea who made it.

The lot also came with an old leather strop. Can old strops be used again after a good cleaning? Sanitary?

I’m out of my element on this one. I was pleasantly surprised because I always wanted to try to shave with a straight at some point and have been following them on auction lately and on BST. I can think of some great vendors on the DE side but with regards to straights, I’m out of my element.

Here is an ad for your razor from 1911. The Literary Digest
 
Chips would hone out. Just like a shave takes multiple passes. Sometimes honing to correct edge just takes more honing. Check out some of the restoration threads on how guys have worked through getting a vintage blade back in shape. It's all doable. It also isn't a bad thing to have someone else do it for you. I'm the type of guy who says I can do anything. That doesn't mean I can do anything good or great first try .
 
Chips would hone out. Just like a shave takes multiple passes. Sometimes honing to correct edge just takes more honing. Check out some of the restoration threads on how guys have worked through getting a vintage blade back in shape. It's all doable. It also isn't a bad thing to have someone else do it for you. I'm the type of guy who says I can do anything. That doesn't mean I can do anything good or great first try .

Thanks, I appreciate all the information. Can’t wait to clean it up when I get it. I’ll have to make a determination after it’s clean and go from there.

I’ve been reading up since last night, I might try Blue Magic on the scales, I heard it is safe on that celluloid. I also saw I can use the Flitz I already have to polish the blade area. I think I’m going to stick with lapping paper to hone since I’m new to all this. The lapping film appears to be a simpler option for me until I learn more.
 
If there are some small chips on the edge, does this mean the “992” is as good as gone or could a professional work around this? I’d love to shave with it but wouldn’t have the heart to do that.
If you intend to get into using a straight, I would get some 3m non adhesive lapping films of eBay or Amazon for $25. If not, send it to someone. Several here would do it for you free. A used Illinois strop for $20-30 are available.

Straight are a bit different in that they require not only developing a skill to use, but also maintain. Many are called, but few are chosen apply.
 
Thanks, I appreciate all the information. Can’t wait to clean it up when I get it. I’ll have to make a determination after it’s clean and go from there.

I’ve been reading up since last night, I might try Blue Magic on the scales, I heard it is safe on that celluloid. I also saw I can use the Flitz I already have to polish the blade area. I think I’m going to stick with lapping paper to hone since I’m new to all this. The lapping film appears to be a simpler option for me until I learn more.

I would recommend using 0000 steel wool and/or 2000 or 2500 wet/dry sand paper wrapped around a cylinder like wine cork. A tooth brush and paste does a great job. I'd be careful not to ruin the etched blade by using lower grit sandpaper or such. Best to preserve than shine.
 
I would recommend using 0000 steel wool and/or 2000 or 2500 wet/dry sand paper wrapped around a cylinder like wine cork. A tooth brush and paste does a great job. I'd be careful not to ruin the etched blade by using lower grit sandpaper or such. Best to preserve than shine.

Never thought about the steel wool, that would probably be easier for me. I’m assuming the print/etching on the blade is gold wash so I have to be careful
 
Never thought about the steel wool, that would probably be easier for me. I’m assuming the print/etching on the blade is gold wash so I have to be careful
Yes, please mask off or just don't do anything to the etching. I've seen eBay flippers ruin otherwise excellent vintage specimens by trying to make things shiny. Shiny don't cut...LOL!!

Have fun and holler if I can help you with using films.
 
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