New French Razor: Le Maurice

[ClumsyBull]

Bought a new razor head from a French Artisan. I didn't purchase the full razor, just the head. Mounted it on top of a Copper Bandit Handle from Alpha.

The razor is a dual comb, milled from 316L stainless steel. Gap is 1.2mm. The razor is available in sandblasted finish or polished, but I opted for machine finished.

The Le Maurice shaves very well indeed. The 1.2mm gap isn't at all intimidating in practical usage. The overall shave feel is very similar to a Gamechanger .84 OC. Mid aggressive. Le Maurice has a high level of efficiency.

A 2.5 pass shave gives me BBS. This is equivalent to a vector OC shave or that from a Blutt Rasur. On fact the smoothness is comparable to the Blutt Rasur 1.2 which I own and love.

It does have a bit more bladefeel given that it's a dual comb.

The very nice thing about this razor is that the 2.5 passes end up giving me BBS with zero irritation. I can see this as a daily driver. More so than the likes of Timeless bronze OC or even the Blackbird OC. Two thumbs up to Augustin!

The razor is produced by Augustin from Atelier Durdan.

Here are some Picts:

 

[Mr. Shavington]

It sounds like another well-designed razor that would fit nicely in the efficient but smooth category, and be more efficient and more smooth than most razors. I actually have an order placed for the Le Maurice 1.2 gap but Augustin is on vacation for August and I expect it will be another month before I get to try it. Helpful to hear you find the characteristics so similar to the Blutt 1.20 - for me that is a really nice balance of efficiency and comfort, and better at both than you would expect. It’s cool to have such a good razor coming from France, with it’s own style.

Would you say the Blutt has the edge on these for build quality and refinement? I guess you can’t comment on the balance and hand feel if you are using your own handle.

I recently got a couple of Stando Polska DE razors - the Leschy and Chors models. I have only used the Leschy so far but they are both stated as very efficient, mid-aggressive feeling razors with similar low blade exposure and gaps of 1.25 and 1.30mm. I find the Leschy (1.25 gap) feels also similar in efficiency and comfort to the Blutt 1.20. I’m planning to shave with the Chors tonight to compare. The Stando ‘Single Edge’ SE razor was also very much in this same category of performance for me. I really like these Stando razors - they have a nice style about them with some nice handle choices, and are priced close to $100 (a tip: it’s significantly cheaper to buy from the Stando website than via their Etsy store). The details aren’t as fine as the Blutt (for example screwing on the handle isn’t particularly smooth feeling), but that doesn’t matter very much when the shave is so good. The finishes are blasted and the texture feels satiny but also very grippy, which I like, but Stanislaw does not offer other finishes.

It seems to me that there are a lot of recent razors offering a very good balance of efficiency and smoothness, and models that lean toward mildness or efficiency, but are more efficient and smooth than you expect. I’ve read the new Aylsworth razor may be another. A couple of years ago I don’t think there were many (if any) razors that feel and perform as good as these. I guess the designers have found a good formula for razor head design, or they are doing better development and testing. I think many of the more established razor brands will have to do some catching up soon, although I’d say that Karve are already there (or even better) with the Overlander.

 

[ClumsyBull]

It sounds like another well-designed razor that would fit nicely in the efficient but smooth category, and be more efficient and more smooth than most razors. I actually have an order placed for the Le Maurice 1.2 gap but Augustin is on vacation for August and I expect it will be another month before I get to try it. Helpful to hear you find the characteristics so similar to the Blutt 1.20 - for me that is a really nice balance of efficiency and comfort, and better at both than you would expect. It’s cool to have such a good razor coming from France, with it’s own style.

Would you say the Blutt has the edge on these for build quality and refinement? I guess you can’t comment on the balance and hand feel if you are using your own handle.

I recently got a couple of Stando Polska DE razors - the Leschy and Chors models. I have only used the Leschy so far but they are both stated as very efficient, mid-aggressive feeling razors with similar low blade exposure and gaps of 1.25 and 1.30mm. I find the Leschy (1.25 gap) feels also similar in efficiency and comfort to the Blutt 1.20. I’m planning to shave with the Chors tonight to compare. The Stando ‘Single Edge’ SE razor was also very much in this same category of performance for me. I really like these Stando razors - they have a nice style about them with some nice handle choices, and are priced close to $100 (a tip: it’s significantly cheaper to buy from the Stando website than via their Etsy store). The details aren’t as fine as the Blutt (for example screwing on the handle isn’t particularly smooth feeling), but that doesn’t matter very much when the shave is so good. The finishes are blasted and the texture feels satiny but also very grippy, which I like, but Stanislaw does not offer other finishes.

It seems to me that there are a lot of recent razors offering a very good balance of efficiency and smoothness, and models that lean toward mildness or efficiency, but are more efficient and smooth than you expect. I’ve read the new Aylsworth razor may be another. A couple of years ago I don’t think there were many (if any) razors that feel and perform as good as these. I guess the designers have found a good formula for razor head design, or they are doing better development and testing. I think many of the more established razor brands will have to do some catching up soon, although I’d say that Karve are already there (or even better) with the Overlander.

I cannot agree more with you. In fact, I was talking to Iridian several times about this concept of a renaissance of the DE razors. Of late we have been very blessed with many highly efficient yet impressively smooth razors.

I managed to catch Augustin just before he went on holiday and he was very kind indeed to finish off my razor and send it out before his break. It was also very nice of him to actually reach out to me after I posted in DFS saying I didnt feel like the sandblasted finish. All in all, a very pleasant artisan to work with.

In terms of the comfort level of the razor, I would say even that the Leschy would appear somewhat more aggressive without necessarily being more efficient than the Maurice. But then again, this is my first shave with the Maurice. I may have been more careful as we all are on the first run. Cannot wait for another shave with it. But the dual comb is marvelous. I love dual combs, with the flexibility they offer.

Anyway, I have the Aylsworth razor, and it shaves slightly more efficiently than the Yates M. I would recommend waiting a few weeks. Aylsworth is planning a release of the more aggressive plate which I believe lies between the Yates H/EH plate. He will also release eventually an open comb. But Aylsworth has got a very beautifully made handle.

Finally Stando. If you like the Leschy you will like the Chors. I found Chors smoother than the Leschy. In fact, I am of the thought that Leschy may just be the chors with scallops in the safety bar That's how it feels to me. Do not discount the Cats Claws. They are very comfortable and efficient open combs. Stando makes excellent razors.

 

[Flying]

This was a great read. Thanks for sharing your experiences with these vendors. I only own a handle from Stando (which I love) and I have been wondering how good are his razors. Same with Atelier Durdan.

 

[sakaltras]

I respect the work of all these artisans and I'm very happy to see that the market grows each day. I would be even more happy to have a variety of designs such as in the prewar years. Especially in France there were very innovative vendors and I hope that in future all these skilled artisans will follow this tradition and we will have such a variety again.

Let me state it again, I really appreciate honest work and engineering. I'm very grateful for this.

 

[BigJ]

Great looking razor!! Thanks for the review!

 

[Mr. Shavington]

I cannot agree more with you. In fact, I was talking to Iridian several times about this concept of a renaissance of the DE razors. Of late we have been very blessed with many highly efficient yet impressively smooth razors.

I managed to catch Augustin just before he went on holiday and he was very kind indeed to finish off my razor and send it out before his break. It was also very nice of him to actually reach out to me after I posted in DFS saying I didnt feel like the sandblasted finish. All in all, a very pleasant artisan to work with.

In terms of the comfort level of the razor, I would say even that the Leschy would appear somewhat more aggressive without necessarily being more efficient than the Maurice. But then again, this is my first shave with the Maurice. I may have been more careful as we all are on the first run. Cannot wait for another shave with it. But the dual comb is marvelous. I love dual combs, with the flexibility they offer.

Anyway, I have the Aylsworth razor, and it shaves slightly more efficiently than the Yates M. I would recommend waiting a few weeks. Aylsworth is planning a release of the more aggressive plate which I believe lies between the Yates H/EH plate. He will also release eventually an open comb. But Aylsworth has got a very beautifully made handle.

Finally Stando. If you like the Leschy you will like the Chors. I found Chors smoother than the Leschy. In fact, I am of the thought that Leschy may just be the chors with scallops in the safety bar That's how it feels to me. Do not discount the Cats Claws. They are very comfortable and efficient open combs. Stando makes excellent razors.

Yep, just as you said, the Stando Chors is similar to the Leschy. Could be the same, as you suspect. I have the Chors in brass and the Leschy in steel, so they are still different enough for me to keep both. Great razors, and if you say the Le Maurice is even a touch smoother for the same efficiency then I am really looking forward to it.

The Le Maurice I ordered is steel, scalloped solid bar, 1.2 plate, and with the long, slim handle #4. Should be like this but with slightly different handle pattern….

 

[Guest2023]

It's good to see a new razor made in France coming out finally. I've alway thought France made some of the best shaving tools in the old days but wondered why no modern French razor exist while Germany or Italy razor do.

(Found one French razor after googling. Bareaya. Never heard of them or seen any review before. Bareaya Safety Razor - https://en.bareaya.com/collections/shaving/products/bareaya-safety-razor)

 

[Mr. Shavington]

It's good to see a new razor made in France coming out finally. I've alway thought France made some of the best shaving tools in the old days but wondered why no modern French razor exist while Germany or Italy razor do.

(Found one French razor after googling. Bareaya. Never heard of them or seen any review before. Bareaya Safety Razor - https://en.bareaya.com/collections/shaving/products/bareaya-safety-razor)

It says at the bottom it’s made in China, though. Zinc alloy handle but might be brass head. Looks pretty and likely designed more for looks than quality. I like how they call it a “reusable” razor - tells you who it’s designed for.

 

[Guest2023]

It says at the bottom it’s made in China, though.

Oh I didn't notice that. Maybe that's why there's no discussion about the razor.

 

[ClumsyBull]

Yep, just as you said, the Stando Chors is similar to the Leschy. Could be the same, as you suspect. I have the Chors in brass and the Leschy in steel, so they are still different enough for me to keep both. Great razors, and if you say the Le Maurice is even a touch smoother for the same efficiency then I am really looking forward to it.

The Le Maurice I ordered is steel, scalloped solid bar, 1.2 plate, and with the long, slim handle #4. Should be like this but with slightly different handle pattern….

View attachment 1500244

Oh very nice. I like the look. I wonder if anyone does Dual combs with OC and scalloped... Hmmmm.

Btw I just shaved again with the Maurice, and yes, I still maintain that even the OC side is at least as smooth if not smoother than the Standos. My only (minor) gripe about the razor is that the lower exposure means the shave longevity is slightly lower. What I mean to say is that I get to shave again in 20+ hours. But the upside is even shaving with abandon, I didn't get any nicks, cuts or any irritation at all.

 

[ClumsyBull]

Yep, just as you said, the Stando Chors is similar to the Leschy. Could be the same, as you suspect. I have the Chors in brass and the Leschy in steel, so they are still different enough for me to keep both. Great razors, and if you say the Le Maurice is even a touch smoother for the same efficiency then I am really looking forward to it.

The Le Maurice I ordered is steel, scalloped solid bar, 1.2 plate, and with the long, slim handle #4. Should be like this but with slightly different handle pattern….

View attachment 1500244

Any news on your Maurice yet? Don't forget to share a shave report and some nice pictures...

 

[Mr. Shavington]

Any news on your Maurice yet? Don't forget to share a shave report and some nice pictures...

Not yet. I think it will be another couple of weeks before I get it, at least.

 

[GlazedBoker]

With the OP’s blessing, I’ll do a quick few shaves observation with a pass around razor from Atelier Durdan & the Le Maurice in a trio of sizes from .8 to 1.2. Again, I’d like to thank the OP, @ClumsyBull for giving me the green light for posting my thoughts and experiences in this thread. Easier to follow one thread instead of multiple ones on the topic of one specific razor. And I don’t like stepping on other threads either. The writings will be as short as possible with any key observations noted. I’ll give a full summation at the end of my turn.

2 days worth of whisker growth and an extremely satisfyingly good shave. The initial shave I went right for the top gap set up, the 1.2 with a fresh Feather blade. I feel no need to explain the fitment and quality of craftsmanship that has been thoughtfully and eloquently said and described from the previous pass around participants. Their analysis and breakdown is spot on in those aspects I mentioned. As for feel and how it works in my hands the razor is overall balanced quite well. The cutting ability is smooth and precise with an easy angle to attain and maintain throughout the whole shave. Early gripe? Though the handle is not slippery, I do wish it had deeper serrations/cuts into it or just plain old knurling. Not a deal breaker to be perfectly honest as it shaves that good. But, I’ve been ruined by the excellent handles out there that provide a tactile grip that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Call me spoiled. Nevertheless, the shave was as good as one can get with a feel and distinction that is all its own. I haven’t experienced a razor that has shave characteristics similar to the Le Maurice. Perhaps a combination of the Razorock BBS-A with a Karve E or F plate in shave feel & performance. It’s unique and honestly, superbly done. First shot and I like it!

Next shave will be with either one of the other two and I’ll stay with the Feather until it gives up the ghost. Looking forward to giving it a run for its money. Or mine.

Great shaves to all….

 

[ClumsyBull]

With the OP’s blessing, I’ll do a quick few shaves observation with a pass around razor from Atelier Durdan & the Le Maurice in a trio of sizes from .8 to 1.2. Again, I’d like to thank the OP, @ClumsyBull for giving me the green light for posting my thoughts and experiences in this thread. Easier to follow one thread instead of multiple ones on the topic of one specific razor. And I don’t like stepping on other threads either. The writings will be as short as possible with any key observations noted. I’ll give a full summation at the end of my turn.

2 days worth of whisker growth and an extremely satisfyingly good shave. The initial shave I went right for the top gap set up, the 1.2 with a fresh Feather blade. I feel no need to explain the fitment and quality of craftsmanship that has been thoughtfully and eloquently said and described from the previous pass around participants. Their analysis and breakdown is spot on in those aspects I mentioned. As for feel and how it works in my hands the razor is overall balanced quite well. The cutting ability is smooth and precise with an easy angle to attain and maintain throughout the whole shave. Early gripe? Though the handle is not slippery, I do wish it had deeper serrations/cuts into it or just plain old knurling. Not a deal breaker to be perfectly honest as it shaves that good. But, I’ve been ruined by the excellent handles out there that provide a tactile grip that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Call me spoiled. Nevertheless, the shave was as good as one can get with a feel and distinction that is all its own. I haven’t experienced a razor that has shave characteristics similar to the Le Maurice. Perhaps a combination of the Razorock BBS-A with a Karve E or F plate in shave feel & performance. It’s unique and honestly, superbly done. First shot and I like it!

Next shave will be with either one of the other two and I’ll stay with the Feather until it gives up the ghost. Looking forward to giving it a run for its money. Or mine.

Great shaves to all….

View attachment 1515967

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Thanks Gus. Feel free to post in any thread I started. I enjoy your thoughts on this. It's a very nice razor.

 

[Rob72]

I've alway thought France made some of the best shaving tools in the old days but wondered why no modern French razor exist while Germany or Italy razors do.

Because they were conquered coming and going. You'll still find a comparatively large number of pre-War French straights, some nickeled/chromed steel SE & DEs, a few zamac, but very, very few brass. Artillery, machineguns & war ships all eat brass.

 

[Rob72]

With the OP’s blessing, I’ll do a quick few shaves observation with a pass around razor from Atelier Durdan & the Le Maurice in a trio of sizes from .8 to 1.2. Again, I’d like to thank the OP, @ClumsyBull for giving me the green light for posting my thoughts and experiences in this thread. Easier to follow one thread instead of multiple ones on the topic of one specific razor. And I don’t like stepping on other threads either. The writings will be as short as possible with any key observations noted. I’ll give a full summation at the end of my turn.

2 days worth of whisker growth and an extremely satisfyingly good shave. The initial shave I went right for the top gap set up, the 1.2 with a fresh Feather blade. I feel no need to explain the fitment and quality of craftsmanship that has been thoughtfully and eloquently said and described from the previous pass around participants. Their analysis and breakdown is spot on in those aspects I mentioned. As for feel and how it works in my hands the razor is overall balanced quite well. The cutting ability is smooth and precise with an easy angle to attain and maintain throughout the whole shave. Early gripe? Though the handle is not slippery, I do wish it had deeper serrations/cuts into it or just plain old knurling. Not a deal breaker to be perfectly honest as it shaves that good. But, I’ve been ruined by the excellent handles out there that provide a tactile grip that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Call me spoiled. Nevertheless, the shave was as good as one can get with a feel and distinction that is all its own. I haven’t experienced a razor that has shave characteristics similar to the Le Maurice. Perhaps a combination of the Razorock BBS-A with a Karve E or F plate in shave feel & performance. It’s unique and honestly, superbly done. First shot and I like it!

Next shave will be with either one of the other two and I’ll stay with the Feather until it gives up the ghost. Looking forward to giving it a run for its money. Or mine.

Great shaves to all….

View attachment 1515967

View attachment 1515968

View attachment 1515969

I just swore off any further acquisitions...sigh...

 

[GlazedBoker]

Couldn’t get a shave in yesterday with the Le Maurice as a work emergency put a halt to my plans for the day. So, I went with an early morning shave today and went with the dual comb 1.0 base plate. I installed the one time used Feather blade from the previous shave, whipped up some Melange d’agrumes by Ethos for a full bodied and gorgeous lather. This stuff never disappoints in giving a perfect barrier for the skin & steel to meet. The blade feel on this base plate is slightly toned down from the 1.2 yet still effectively cuts through the whiskers with a smooth efficiency. The open comb side was used through the first pass that clearly brought down the whiskers with ease. The Feather after its first use is magical in the Le Maurice 1.0. The harshness is nonexistent as the Le Maurice tempers the feel beautifully with the bend that the head puts on the blade. Switched it over to the solid bar side for pass 2 which is always my ATG pass and it was effortless in execution that reminded me of the Timeless Ti..68 SB in feel but, cut closer more like the Ti .95. I was DFS at this point and could have called it then and there but, I wanted the full baby bottom finish. Flipped it again to the open comb side just to get a bit more feel and feedback so that it could work against my skin easily in catching any stragglers. The feel of the open comb side is so non aggressive that you can literally throw the razor around with ease and in the secure thought that it would not catch or bite unless you deliberately intended it too. The teeth are machined near perfectly to just roll over the skin comfortably and easily without feeling pointy or obstructive in any way. The dual comb set up just gives a quiet but, effective feedback on what it’s doing at every facet of the shave. Simply a wonderful shave that was just as good if not better than with the 1.2 Brass set. The feel in hand felt just as balanced as the 1.2 yet, I liked the slight top heavy feel or weight bias of the Brass set of the 1.2 just a bit more. Splitting hairs though as the 1.0 is well done & executed.

The Feather still feels awesome and onto the .8 for the next shave. Great shaves to all…

 

[ClumsyBull]

Couldn’t get a shave in yesterday with the Le Maurice as a work emergency put a halt to my plans for the day. So, I went with an early morning shave today and went with the dual comb 1.0 base plate. I installed the one time used Feather blade from the previous shave, whipped up some Melange d’agrumes by Ethos for a full bodied and gorgeous lather. This stuff never disappoints in giving a perfect barrier for the skin & steel to meet. The blade feel on this base plate is slightly toned down from the 1.2 yet still effectively cuts through the whiskers with a smooth efficiency. The open comb side was used through the first pass that clearly brought down the whiskers with ease. The Feather after its first use is magical in the Le Maurice 1.0. The harshness is nonexistent as the Le Maurice tempers the feel beautifully with the bend that the head puts on the blade. Switched it over to the solid bar side for pass 2 which is always my ATG pass and it was effortless in execution that reminded me of the Timeless Ti..68 SB in feel but, cut closer more like the Ti .95. I was DFS at this point and could have called it then and there but, I wanted the full baby bottom finish. Flipped it again to the open comb side just to get a bit more feel and feedback so that it could work against my skin easily in catching any stragglers. The feel of the open comb side is so non aggressive that you can literally throw the razor around with ease and in the secure thought that it would not catch or bite unless you deliberately intended it too. The teeth are machined near perfectly to just roll over the skin comfortably and easily without feeling pointy or obstructive in any way. The dual comb set up just gives a quiet but, effective feedback on what it’s doing at every facet of the shave. Simply a wonderful shave that was just as good if not better than with the 1.2 Brass set. The feel in hand felt just as balanced as the 1.2 yet, I liked the slight top heavy feel or weight bias of the Brass set of the 1.2 just a bit more. Splitting hairs though as the 1.0 is well done & executed.

The Feather still feels awesome and onto the .8 for the next shave. Great shaves to all…

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Sweet Shave. The Maurice is one of those few razors that have an OC that is at least as smooth as the SB, so kudos to Augustin for a wonderful feat of engineering.

I am very inspired by your shave with the feather. So far I have been avoiding it, but I think this calls for an experiment

My only wish for the Maurice is for there to be a little more exposure so that the shave will last a little longer. But hey, that's me really trying to find fault with an otherwise excellent razor.

Keep the posts coming! Cheers!

 

[Mr. Shavington]

My Le Maurice 1.2 arrived last week and I’ve had a few shaves. I got the stainless steel, matte finish, scalloped safety bar, with the #4 long and thin, solid handle option.

The bottom line is that it gives me close shaves with no irritation and it is a very good razor. I would recommend it as a very good choice, but there are also razors that I like a little more. I am going to compare with the Blutt 1.20, which is rather similar in looks and intention, and is comparable enough on price - the Blutt is €245 and the Le Maurice is €220. I consider the Blutt 1.20 as the current benchmark for this style of medium-high efficiency razor.

The Le Maurice 1.2 is not as efficient as the Blutt 1.20 - my shaves don’t last as long and I have to buff more to get a fully close shave. It doesn’t feel as clean and smooth as the Blutt to me when I shave, although it somehow seems to be gentler to my skin than the Blutt even though I buff more with the Le Maurice. The Le Maurice feels a bit like it is tugging on my hairs (even using a Kai blade) but, as I say, it has also been extremely gentle on my skin, and that gentleness (even if it doesn’t feel quite as gentle) seems to be the notable strength of this razor. The finish and manufacturing of the Blutt are a bit more refined, though the Le Maurice is still pretty good. The Le Maurice stand is very well fitted - my razor slots into the stand with a really satisfying, almost military ‘snick’ - which indicates some very good machining precision. The #4 (long/solid) handle had good grip and the razor feels well balanced and good to hold. I like the way the head looks with the deep curve of the top cap echoed on the bottom of the base plate.

I think the Le Maurice 1.2 is more comparable to the Blutt 0.99 plate in efficiency, but the Le Maurice is gentler (though, as I say, perhaps doesn’t feel gentler). I think I might prefer the Le Maurice slightly over the Blutt 0.99, or consider them about equal overall. The tugging and slightly less smooth feel of the Le Maurice is the downside, but the Le Maurice is gentler on my skin and it is probably about equal in efficiency. As I’ve said before, I felt the Blutt 0.99 wasn’t as good as the 1.20 - not as efficient but not noticeably smoother.

Maybe a Le Maurice 1.4 plate would be closer to my preferences, though you can never know until you try, and I wouldn’t assume it would be as efficient as the Blutt and that it would still retain most of the notable gentleness that the Le Maurice 1.2 has.

It is no criticism of the Le Maurice to say I like the Blutt 1.20 more - or that I get as long-lasting a shave from my Karve Overlander, but more easily and with a more pleasant face feel. Those razors are the absolute best of the best, in my opinion. I still like the Le Maurice much better than most of my razors and it is one of the very good ones. The standout thing about the Le Maurice, for me - and the reason to consider it in a competitive field of modern razors - is the excellent gentleness on the skin, which is up there close to the Overlander. If you don’t like the Overlander’s looks then the Le Maurice 1.2 is a viable alternative (although the Overlander feels better to use, to me, and is less expensive). If you don’t need the extra efficiency of the Blutt 1.20 then I think the Le Maurice is noticeably kinder to my skin than either the Blutt 1.20 or 0.99 plates. The main negative of the Le Maurice for me is this feeling of tugginess that I get, and I am curious whether others also experience this.

That’s how I experience it, anyway. Don’t know how well my thoughts resonate with others who have used these razors. My mileage might vary, and so might yours.