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New and always looking for some tips & tricks!

Hi everyone,

A short introduction: my name's Mark, 26, Dutch, and a DE razor user since three weeks. I would like to tell my story and hope to get some tips and tricks in return.

A couple of weeks ago I went to a free demonstration of a master barber at my local drugstore. His first reaction (a bit exaggerated): my God, your skin looks terrible! As it turned out I had a lot of ingrown hairs in my neck area. He asked my shaving habits. These were every other day with a cartridge razor (Wilkinson Quattro - probably used for way too long) with shaving gel for sensitive skin (Nivea for Men), closing off with Nivea for Men sensitive after shave balm. The neck area I only shaved WTG, but everything above it was WTG and ATG. He had one advice for me: throw that garbage away ASAP (his exact words) and switch to a single razor blade. My skin was way too irritated to handle four blades.

He told me - something I already knew - that my beard is very coarse. He had to use a lot of pre shave oil to soften up my beard. In the end he could only shave me twice, because any further shaves would be a nightmare for my skin. Some of the other tips he gave me were to use an exfoliating lotion the night before the shave, get a non soap shaving cream, to spend a minimum of two minutes lathering up, and use talcum powder after the after shave to further reduce irritation.

Long story short: for a free demonstration that was supposed to take 30 minutes tops I spent nearly 45 minutes in his chair. With a Timor safety razor, a basic badger brush, some exfoliating lotion, Proraso shaving cream, talcum powder, a brush to apply the talcum powder and a brush stand I left the building.

The first couple of days was really strange and I had to completely re-invent the way I shaved. The number of nicks and cuts decreased rapidly after finding out how much pressure to apply. In the mean time I checked B&B for the basic shaving techniques. A big thank you for all the information that is available.

I've added some accessories to my 'den' in the mean time, with a razor stand and stainless steel bowl. I also purchased a sampler pack containing Derby Extra, Merkur, Astra Platinum (Green), Astra Stainless (Blue), Feather, SuperMax, Shark Chrome, Shark Super Stainless and Dorco blades (I think I'm going to start collecting all different types, looks fun to see how many there are). Currently I'm using the Timor blades that came with the razor, going through them at a rate of 1 per week.

My current shaving routine is as follows:
- Apply exfoliating lotion night before shave
- The next day: when going into the shower, I soak my brush (partially due to size of the brush) in my bowl filled with hot water
- When ready to shave, I empty the bowl, put about an inch of cream in the bowl and start brushing it up to a foamy lather
- Fill up the sink with hot water and start to apply some of that water on the skin
- Start to brush on the lather, building up in consistency every stroke until it's thick and white overall
- Dip the razor in the hot water and start shaving, frequently cleaning the razor and not applying too much pressure to avoid nicks and cuts (only WTG, sometimes XTG, never ATG)
- When done shaving, apply cold water on skin and clean the brush as well
- Dry the brush on towel and hang out to dry
- Apply alum on skin
- Apply after shave balm (still the same as before)
- Apply talcum powder

My shaves are getting better every time, the ingrown hairs appear to be a thing of the past, but it seems I still get irritation after shaving XTG, especially at the bottom chin/jawline intersection and the jawline, sometimes the neck as well.

My only concern is the time it takes to get a proper shave. Where in the past I could be done in 6-7 minutes tops, I now take more than double that time. Currently I have that time, but chance is that's about to change real soon.

For the near future, I plan to buy Proraso red cream because of my coarse beard. In the long run I plan to get a high quality brush (silver tip badger) and another razor, preferably a TTO/butterfly.

The thing I would like to throw into the group: who has tips to help me improve my shaves? Any suggestion can be helpful. Thank you in advance.
 
Welcome to the forum; enjoy your time here. A good place to start would be to checkout the Shave Wiki section and the tips at the begining of this section. On "You Tube" you can also find tips for the newbie shavers among us. As far as the time it takes; I don't have any suggestions for you except to say you might budget even more time for shaving; a rushed shave is a recipe for problems. Sleep is overrated anyway... :biggrin1:

Hang in there and check back in periodically to keep us updated as to your progress. And one more thing; once you start buying more "stuff" it is a slippery slope; you'll figure that out soon enough.
 
Hi there. I just wonder if the exfoliating routine is really necessary, or might actually be counterproductive. After all it removes a layer of skin, which I think might increase your sensitivity to DE shaving. You don't say if you rinse and re-lather between WTG and XTG, but I do and I believe others do likewise. I've not heard of applying talcum powder after the balm. It seems to me it would dry your skin out, but of course I might be wrong on that. Anyways, keep up the good work.
 
Welcome to the group!

It sounds to me like you are doing good. My advice on irritation is always back off on pressure, but then in your case I don't know what else you have going on, for example as suggested above regarding the exfoliating is adding to irritation.

You may want to back off on the complexity of your routine as far as potential stress on your skin. Just do a simple soften the beard then lather then shave, and then see what happens after a few days. Then if you think you need the exfoliation add it back. And same with any other pre- or post-shave treatments. But one at a time.

And no pressure. Just touch the razor to your skin.
 
Mark, great introduction and welcome to the forum!
I would highly recommend unrefined shea butter to help with any skin irritation or razor burn. This may just be the best moisturizer you will ever try. You could even apply it at night to moisten your beard! Good luck.
 
Try shaving at least your neck with cold water only. What ever you do after the shave (balm) don't rub it too much. Just apply it with the gain and leave it alone.

This should at least help with neck issues. I find that I have to be very careful in the neck area as well. Cold water shaving their definitely helps.
 
I think that the barber recommended the exfoliant scrub to help relieve the ingrown hairs and help them correct themselves. I also think that since the ingrown hairs have gone you can exfoliate less often. Moreover, if you get a badger or boar with good backbone and you take your time lathering it is doing the same thing as the exfoliant.

I am pretty sure, not positive, that the proraso red is just sandalwood scented and not a special formula for course beards.

Blades, blades, blades. I have found, after trying many blades, even those that the majority like, only certain blades work well in certain razors. For me the Merkur 37c slant with a feather I the best DE shave. Any Edwin Jagger razor I use, Personna Med prep are the best. Still, all of my Gillette's like different blades.

Similarly, I find that heavier grind straights are far better for me. Not an extra-hollow kind of fella. That said, the smoothest most irritation free shave I get is with a straight.

Me, like you, has a course beard. So much so that I used to take out Mach 3 blades in one or two shaves.

i guess that my advice would be to stick with everything te way you are doing it now except change to a different blade every couple days because the first shave on a blade isn't always the best but the second third and fourth May be. But if the second shave, or the first shave for that matter, are not any good or painful, change before you finish the shave. You will know. Once you find a blade you like, stick with it while while trying other soaps, etc.

Don't change too many things at once. If you change your cream and blade, you will not know which one caused the irritation if there is any.

good luck.

chris
 
First of all I would like to thank everyone for their thoughts. The suggestions were helpful and made me realise not to change too much at the same time.

The quality of my shaves continues to improve, allthough I do have the occasional setback, which is probably the result of putting too much pressure on the skin.

I've acquired a tube of Proraso red and did one shave with it. It's a big difference when compared to green. The shave was much smoother, but this may very well be because of the warmer lather it produces. As a matter of fact, the shave was so smooth that I put way too much pressure on the blade, resulting in a hell of a lot of razor burn. Anyway, it's been one shave, so it's too soon to draw any conclusions just yet.

In the mean time I've also acquired some different razor blades for me to try out. I knew there were many brands on the market, but I never would have guessed it would be over 100 kinds. Below you find a picture of the different brands I bought recently. Some of them I have more than once. They are not on the photo.

I plan to try the Derby Extra blades first, but after that I'm not sure which to take. Perhaps someone can point out the more forgiving blades? I do know I'm going to wait with the Feather.

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Welcome! The key to all of this: find what works for YOU. What works for any one of us may be lousy for you. (For example, I tried cold water shaving: OUCH! But some shavers swear by it.) Looking at your excellent sampler, the less-sharp blades are likely to be Derby, Personna Red (Platinum), Treet company blades (Treet versions, Trig), Dorco (which may be one or both of your unmarked packs), and perhaps the Lord Industry blades (such as Asco, Racer, Rainbow, Big Ben, Crown, Silver Star, Shark, Lord); lots of intermediate blades (Israeli Personnas [the blue-label '10 Double-Edge Blades'] are among the popular choices); and moving into the sharper range the Personna Blues, the various Gillette-made blades (Super Thin, Silver Blue, Astra, Green pack-Super Stainless, Perma-sharp Super) and, finally, Gillette Yellows (edge-coated version of the Green pack) and Feather. Others will classify them differently, though pretty much everyone would rank Yellows and Feathers at the sharp end. Have a great time exploring!
 
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Thanks for the clarification Mandina!

The unmarked bottom left blades are from the HEMA (Dutch wholesale store), the one on the top left is Crystal. The big boxes on top are both Personna, one 'Barber' and one 'Super aka 'Lab Blues''.
 
Cygnum, I truly believe a guy experimenting with different blades is just as well off closing the his eyes and picking a pack. Just finish the pack before you open a new one.

Blades are so YMMV. I will tell you not to be cautious of Feather blades any more than any other blade, and so will others. But there are still others who will say be very cautious. Who knows which side you will fall on until you use them.
 
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