i recently purchased zingari mans the merchant. i tried lathering it in my normaly lathering style, i took about 1/4 a teaspoon of product and put it in my lathering bowl. i soaked my badger brush while showering, then rung out the brush and shook out the excess water and then proceeded to lather. i add in about 1/2 a teaspoon of water and the soap barely lathers, it doesnt start producing volume like other soaps do, i proceed to add a few more teaspoons of water but it doesnt really build that well. i notice that it foams up rather than becomes creamy and builds any volume, theres hardly any soap in the bowl. not sure what im doing wrong. the brush im starting with is pretty dry outside of the residual moisture after i shake the excess water out. this soap is giving me trouble. i thought it was suppose to be on the thirsty side. doesnt seem to want to lather for me. im aslo using distilled water since out water here is hard enought to cut diamonds. any thoughtws would be greatly apreacitated. thanks!!
need some help with zingari man
- Thread starter newwetsahver
- Start date
I've never bowl lathered her sego base but it is indeed a thirsty base. I typically bowl lather and haven't had any issues with getting a super thick and creamy lather. I would probably start by slowly adding water and working it in gently, I've found that some soaps tend to foam instead of bloom if I try and work them too quickly.
Maybe try using more soap and a synthetic brush. I never had trouble with Zingari man soaps but have heard some accounts of difficulty lathering.
^^ This ^^
@newwetsahver
I got a flawless lather as soon as I raised the amount of soap used. Just give it a try and add keep adding water slowly/constantly.
I've never spooned out the sego base so have no idea why you're having a problem. All i can say is the sego product is fantastic and i have no trouble lathering it straight from its tub. It can take a good amount of water.
jackgoldman123
Boring and predictable
Zingari is a super soap - I hope you have better results soon
I have four tubs of Zingari man Sego in my collection. They are among my best performing soaps. I consider them easy to lather. Here is the procedure I use with them.
With most soaps, I add a Tablespoon (15 ml) of hot water to the tub and swirl it around for about 10 seconds to saturate the surface. I then dump the milky water into my lather bowl. However, with a new tub of Sego, it is soft enough that you do not need to prewet the soap. I put the Tablespoon of hot water directly into my lather bowl.
Typically, I use 24-26 mm brushes. If you are using a smaller brush, your timing might be different. I soak my brush until it is saturated. For synthetic brushes, that is a quick dip; for a badger brush that might take 5-10 minutes. I then squeeze out the excess water and the shake the brush a few times to remove as much water as possible. The brush will be slightly damp. I wil then load the brush directly from the puck for about 10 seconds. If you are using a smaller brush, it might take longer. I also would not try this with a Semogue boar brush as I just do not get great lathers with them.
After loading a suitable amount of soap, I will take the brush to my lather bowl that already contains 1 Tablespoon of hot water. My lather bowl is the mortar bowl from a mortar and pestle set, so it is rough inside. That makes it easier to develop the lather. If you have a smooth plastic or glass bowl (no ridges or dimples) it will take longer. As soon as I start to agitate the brush in bowl, it will burst into a foamy lather. However, over the next 30 seconds the lather will start to develop. WIth my bowl and my brush, I will have a great lather free of any large bubbles in less than 40 seconds. Depending upon your brush and your bowl, it might take longer.
If the lather is too thick, add more wate a few drops at a time. If the lather is too thin, touch your brush to the top of the soap, but do not pick up too much.
I have a test I use for proper hydration of a soap. It seems to work well with nearly any soap or cream in my large collection. I fill my sink with water and leave a trickle running. If you live in a water restricted area, you can use a bowl or coffee mug. As you shave, you razor will start to collect lather from your face. Dip your razor gently into the water in the sink, bowl or mug. If the lather sticks to the razor, the soap is too thick; add a few drops of water. If the lather immediately dissapates, the lather is too thin and you need to add a touch more soap. If the lather is properly hydrated, the lather will quickly release from the razor and float intact to the surface without dispersing. Some soaps have a wide range of acceptable hydration, some less so.
I use that same method for lathering almost every soap in my collection (some 200 soaps). Thus, I know the method works. The only time I get poor quality lathers is if I am lathering a poor quality soap or if I am using a brush that does not work with that soap. I find that synthetic brushes will lather nearly any soap, but boar brushes tend to work best with harder soaps, not soft soaps like Sego.
Good luck and let me know if you find my method helpful. You can PM me if you wish.
With most soaps, I add a Tablespoon (15 ml) of hot water to the tub and swirl it around for about 10 seconds to saturate the surface. I then dump the milky water into my lather bowl. However, with a new tub of Sego, it is soft enough that you do not need to prewet the soap. I put the Tablespoon of hot water directly into my lather bowl.
Typically, I use 24-26 mm brushes. If you are using a smaller brush, your timing might be different. I soak my brush until it is saturated. For synthetic brushes, that is a quick dip; for a badger brush that might take 5-10 minutes. I then squeeze out the excess water and the shake the brush a few times to remove as much water as possible. The brush will be slightly damp. I wil then load the brush directly from the puck for about 10 seconds. If you are using a smaller brush, it might take longer. I also would not try this with a Semogue boar brush as I just do not get great lathers with them.
After loading a suitable amount of soap, I will take the brush to my lather bowl that already contains 1 Tablespoon of hot water. My lather bowl is the mortar bowl from a mortar and pestle set, so it is rough inside. That makes it easier to develop the lather. If you have a smooth plastic or glass bowl (no ridges or dimples) it will take longer. As soon as I start to agitate the brush in bowl, it will burst into a foamy lather. However, over the next 30 seconds the lather will start to develop. WIth my bowl and my brush, I will have a great lather free of any large bubbles in less than 40 seconds. Depending upon your brush and your bowl, it might take longer.
If the lather is too thick, add more wate a few drops at a time. If the lather is too thin, touch your brush to the top of the soap, but do not pick up too much.
I have a test I use for proper hydration of a soap. It seems to work well with nearly any soap or cream in my large collection. I fill my sink with water and leave a trickle running. If you live in a water restricted area, you can use a bowl or coffee mug. As you shave, you razor will start to collect lather from your face. Dip your razor gently into the water in the sink, bowl or mug. If the lather sticks to the razor, the soap is too thick; add a few drops of water. If the lather immediately dissapates, the lather is too thin and you need to add a touch more soap. If the lather is properly hydrated, the lather will quickly release from the razor and float intact to the surface without dispersing. Some soaps have a wide range of acceptable hydration, some less so.
I use that same method for lathering almost every soap in my collection (some 200 soaps). Thus, I know the method works. The only time I get poor quality lathers is if I am lathering a poor quality soap or if I am using a brush that does not work with that soap. I find that synthetic brushes will lather nearly any soap, but boar brushes tend to work best with harder soaps, not soft soaps like Sego.
Good luck and let me know if you find my method helpful. You can PM me if you wish.
More soap, but as a secondary consideration in general you might want to test your water hardness. Lathering problems are often related to water quality (water can be 90% by weight or more of your finished lather), and adjustments may be needed such as increasing soap quantity, lathering time or even adding products like glycerine. I've never had problems lathering any ZM products, but my water hardness is <2 gpg. Or you could use this approach 
:
:Testing Density of Various Soap Products
Testing density of various soap products
www.juliantrubin.com
- Thread starter
- #9
atm ive been using a badger brush and a tuperware bowl to create my lather, i just ordered one of the captain choice's lathering bowls and hope it will come soon.
this is the lathering method im currently following
- Thread starter
- #10
we have extremely water here, its city water. i used distilled water for my shaves insteadMore soap, but as a secondary consideration in general you might want to test your water hardness. Lathering problems are often related to water quality (water can be 90% by weight or more of your finished lather), and adjustments may be needed such as increasing soap quantity, lathering time or even adding products like glycerine. I've never had problems lathering any ZM products, but my water hardness is <2 gpg. Or you could use this approach
Testing Density of Various Soap Products
Testing density of various soap productswww.juliantrubin.com
Thanks for your update.
Tupperware bowls are smooth polyethylene. Thus, they are not the best surface to use for your lather bowl. I do not own a Captain's Choice lather bowl but I have handled them. They seem to be well designed for the job.
Since you are using distilled water, you should not have the issue that some soaps have with hard water.
Shaving lather is a thixotropic substance (like paint). Thus, the more shear force you can apply to the lather the thinner it becomes and the quicker the lather develops to its ideal state. Rapid agitation with good brush in a textured bowl provides the shear needed to make a great lather. When the sheer is reduced, the lather thickens up and remains in place on your face.
In looking a the "hydrated" lather produced by Chris of CBD fame, I believe the lather is over-hydrated. A lather with too much water may be extremely slick, but it won't do a great job of protecting your skin from irritation. Zingari Man Sego is so good that it will develop a lather that is extremely slick, yet still provide great skin protection. That is why I suggested my method of testing hydration of the lather. Some soaps work well within a wide range of hydration. With those soaps you can make the lather more or less wet depending upon whether you want more slickness or more protection. I like a balance of both.
Tupperware bowls are smooth polyethylene. Thus, they are not the best surface to use for your lather bowl. I do not own a Captain's Choice lather bowl but I have handled them. They seem to be well designed for the job.
Since you are using distilled water, you should not have the issue that some soaps have with hard water.
Shaving lather is a thixotropic substance (like paint). Thus, the more shear force you can apply to the lather the thinner it becomes and the quicker the lather develops to its ideal state. Rapid agitation with good brush in a textured bowl provides the shear needed to make a great lather. When the sheer is reduced, the lather thickens up and remains in place on your face.
In looking a the "hydrated" lather produced by Chris of CBD fame, I believe the lather is over-hydrated. A lather with too much water may be extremely slick, but it won't do a great job of protecting your skin from irritation. Zingari Man Sego is so good that it will develop a lather that is extremely slick, yet still provide great skin protection. That is why I suggested my method of testing hydration of the lather. Some soaps work well within a wide range of hydration. With those soaps you can make the lather more or less wet depending upon whether you want more slickness or more protection. I like a balance of both.
- Thread starter
- #12
i was using georgtown g20 shaving scuttle to bowl lather, but i find it doesnt have all that much surface area to work with. i may go back to it in the future. the captains choice lather bowls seem like the have more surface area to work with. when i switched over to useing the rubbermade bowl i found i got better lathers and it was easier to gauge hydration as opposed to the g20 scuttle. just my thoughts and observances tho.
I have the same issue with Zingari Man. It performs well but it does not grow much in volume while lathering. I need to use a full tablespoon of product for a three pass shave. It’s like shaving with moisturizer rather than soap. Good stuff but you need a lot of it.
This is genius. Thanks for sharing it with us.
This is good information
I have hard water and face lather, I have always saturated my synthetic brush, maybe one shake or so, and loaded heavy. This to me is the solution to any soap, I'm not trying to save soap
- Thread starter
- #17
im curious as to why i wouldnt be able to get this soap to lather using a badger brush, i see alot of people saying use a sythentic brush as opposed to a badger brush and im not tryin to knock synthetics if you use them. i dont have much experience with synthetics. why would would a synthetic brush produce a better lather outta couristy? normally im using either a fan or bulb 26mm from either rudy or elite razor.
I have trouble lathering some soaps with boar brushes, especially Semogue boar brushes, but I use badger brushes 80% of the time. I love 26mm badger brushes. I have no issue lathering Zingari Man with a badger brush. See my post #7 above for the method that works for me. Hopefully, it will be of some help.
- Thread starter
- #19
do you have any experience with declration grooming? i seem to have the same problem with that particular soap. im wondering if might need to use more product as well. i do a 3 pass shave as a 2 pass headshave
Not sure why but I've always had better results using a synthetic. I've done comparisons using the same amount of soap and synthetics always produced more creamy and voluminous lather. I still use natural hair brushes because they feel very massaging and pleasurable to use.
