My Son in-law to be (maybe) handed an old revolver to look at that his dad gave him. He said all he knows about it is it shoots 38 Smith & Wesson. Any help on the history of this old revolver would be appreciated. Thanks
Need some help with an old Smith & Wesson
- Thread starter Mlee
- Start date
Don't really know, I have a revolver that looks like that, and is a 1920's model revolver, cannot remember the model number, but think it is a hand ejector, 5 screw model. Mine is in 32WCF or 32-20. They are basically K frame guns, like the M10, K 38 , ect. You might post it on smith-wessonforum.com, where the S&W experts reside.
simon1
Self Ignored by Vista
^^^What he said.
My guess, with the caliber and lanyard ring, would be an early 1900s military model...possibly WWI era.
But I've been known to be wrong...multiple times.
Love the United States Property stamp. We have a few fans here of 38 S&W that'll be along shortly...
AA
5” barrel suggests it is a circa WWII “Victory” issue. Intended for use in the Lend Lease Program; sent to British, Aussie, Canadian, and New Zealand governments.
What he said! These were made for the Brit Empire, and were in .38 S&W caliber--NOT .38 Special. In the 1960s, many were converted by Cogswell & Harrison (England) to .38 Special by running a .38 Special reamer into ea. cylinder chamber. While perfectly safe to fire .38 Special (not +P or hotter), fired cases "balooned" as the diameter of .38 S&W case is larger at the base than .38 Special. Additionally, bore diameter of .38 S&W is larger than .38 Special (approximately .360 or so compared to .357/8 for the special).
These are fine revolvers with an interesting WWII history--lots of fun to shoot--enjoy!
- Thread starter
- #7
Thank you for the replies gentlemen, I'll ask him if he has any other questions.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks for the information
Are you saying it's okay to shoot non +P 38 Special as it is or it would have to be converted first?
Looks like an old S&W Police Positive .38
NOT OK to shoot .38 Spl.Thanks for the information
Are you saying it's okay to shoot non +P 38 Special as it is or it would have to be converted first?
You might want to search it for other markings such as acceptance stamps. If used by GB there should be an arrow somewhere, maybe on the butt of the grip.
That's a nice piece of history and I don't see import markings.
That's a nice piece of history and I don't see import markings.
Yes, if it has been converted to .38 special. Easy to safely find out---Borrow one .38 special round of ammo from a friend.Thanks for the information
Are you saying it's okay to shoot non +P 38 Special as it is or it would have to be converted first?
Try to insert it into any chamber. If it has NOT been converted, it will not go all the way into the chamber & u will not be able to close the cylinder.
I suspect your revolver has not been converted. All the converted ones I have seen (owned one years ago) had the barrels shortened to 2".
If not converted, you will need to buy some .38 S&W ammo---not .38 special. Easy to get the wrong stuff, as many gun store types do not understand the difference. 38 S&W ammo is hard to find in the best of times--no new guns have been made in this caliber for probably 50 years or so. The good news is .38 S&W is a mild cartridge and very enjoyable to shoot.
As a matter of interest, your revolver is referred to as the Victory Model, for obvious reasons. It is simply S&W's commercial model (Military & Police) with less attention paid to fit and finish. Perfectly safe to shoot, assuming good condition. Probably a good idea to have a gunsmith or knowledgeable friend check it out before firing---
Good shooting---
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks again for the help guys.
.38 Spl. Cylinder from Numrich can generally get you shooting .38 Spl. with minimal fitting, although if your specimen was shot much, it may need a new hand and take up on endshake.
I just finished a restore & conversions on my grandfather's pre-Model 10. I'll post some pics when I get around to it.
In rough shape, these can be in the $300-400 range, depending on what the buyer is looking for; in mint condition, they can go over $1500. If you're able to have it checked out & make sure the timing and action are right, it will go another 100 years in the family too.
I just finished a restore & conversions on my grandfather's pre-Model 10. I'll post some pics when I get around to it.
In rough shape, these can be in the $300-400 range, depending on what the buyer is looking for; in mint condition, they can go over $1500. If you're able to have it checked out & make sure the timing and action are right, it will go another 100 years in the family too.
