Need Help!

[NooB LoKi]

The past month i have tried to go against the grain and i am having issues. The problem is i am getting allot of nicks. I think its important to mention that is only under my jaw line where it seems the hair is a bit rougher. The blade feels like it tugging and skipping. Even after going against the grain the area is still very rough. It only dose this on the against grain pass.

Razor is a Edwin Jagger DE89L
Preshave:
• Hot shower
• Apply lather
• Apply hot towel

Things i have done:
• Used different blades. I have even tried feather blades. They still tug and skip even on the first shave. I really don't get nicks with feathers unless i go against the grain
• Tabac shaving soap
• Uberlather
• Preshave oil before i start my shave and/or right before i do the against the grain pass

Some of this has reduced the number of nicks but i still getting more then 10 nicks when i go against the grain.
I am not sure what to try next at this point. Maybe try a different razor? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[SystemaCid]

Do you go ATG right off? How many passes do you do?

 

[JayEddie]

Do you go ATG right off? How many passes do you do?

+1

But if ATG isn't the first pass in that area, try stretching the skin.

 

[Luc]

Keep in mind that shaving ATG is not for everyone, you might not be able to do so.

if it skips too much, add 1-2 passes XTG before going ATG on those spots, it might help. Also, as mentioned above, what do you do? what's your routine?

 

[adriang]

I've been struggling with the same thing. I'm improving I think.

What I've found helped me..
I'm putting more emphasis on my prep, I took a look at Kyles prep on this site, and specifically for me more time spend working the lather up under my chin, and massaging the lather with my fingers.
I'm convinced that my beard growth is all over the place, but I'm doing 2 passes which are somewhere between with and across, and then the final is ATG.
I'm really working on no pressure at all on my neck and under my chin when I'm ATG. This is also when I really can tell how good my blade is. (currently using personna).
I'm using a Fatboy which is adjustable, and I was using it on the most aggressive. I did ask a few questions about checking the settings during my shave. The last few I've done, 4 including today, which have been much better, I've had it set on 7, so 2 notches back from the most aggressive. (added later on to the post!).

Post shave rinse is now with cold water.

I'm currently using the Body Shop cream, I'm lathering it up on my face rather than in a cup so it's also forcing me to put more into softening up my growth.

 

[NooB LoKi]

I been doing 3 passes. with the grain, across the grain, and then against the grain. On the days i don't go against the grain i do another pass across the grain in the other direction. I will rarely get a nick when i shave across the grain on the 3ed pass. It is still rough after this 3ed pass. to get it somewhat close i would have to do a 4th or even 5th pass. but my face cant handle 4 or 5 passes
I have tried stretching the skin. I was stretching it more each time to the point where i got a few ingrown hairs and i was still cutting my self. I been using my alum block to get a little grip since my skin still feels slick

 

[SystemaCid]

Maybe a different razor. A milder razor is sometimes better when going against the grain. Have you tried an adjustable yet? A good strategy with a Progress or Fat/Slim Boy is to use an aggressive setting for your WTG and XTG passes. Then tone it down for your ATG pass. Have you considered getting a slant? The slicing action really reduces any skipping.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Guy goes to his doctor and says, "Hey Doc, it hurts when I do this".
Doctor says, "Well, then don't do that."

Kinda goes for ATG. But your best chance of success is two good WTG passes, a good relather, and go at it with the spine of the razor nearly touching the face. Stretch the skin well. If you are DE, switch to straight. MUCH easier to do ATG with a straight than a DE. But why do you need to go ATG? Won't two WTG passes do you? If not, maybe work on your second pass technique.

 

[NooB LoKi]

I've been struggling with the same thing. I'm improving I think.

What I've found helped me..
I'm putting more emphasis on my prep, I took a look at Kyles prep on this site, and specifically for me more time spend working the lather up under my chin, and massaging the lather with my fingers.
I'm convinced that my beard growth is all over the place, but I'm doing 2 passes which are somewhere between with and across, and then the final is ATG.
I'm really working on no pressure at all on my neck and under my chin when I'm ATG. This is also when I really can tell how good my blade is. (currently using personna).

Post shave rinse is now with cold water.

I'm currently using the Body Shop cream, I'm lathering it up on my face rather than in a cup so it's also forcing me to put more into softening up my growth.

I have looked up Kyles prep and will give it a shot on my next shave. I normally apply lather and then place a hot towel on my face for about a min. But i will try working in the lather with my fingers and let the towel sit on my face longer.

 

[NooB LoKi]

Maybe a different razor. A milder razor is sometimes better when going against the grain. Have you tried an adjustable yet? A good strategy with a Progress or Fat/Slim Boy is to use an aggressive setting for your WTG and XTG passes. Then tone it down for your ATG pass. Have you considered getting a slant? The slicing action really reduces any skipping.

Atm the only razor i own is a Edwin Jagger DE89L. I have thought about getting a different razor. I was thinking about maybe buying a Merkur Progress or Futur. I not sure if i will buy a slant bar razor.

 

[SystemaCid]

The Progess in a great choice. I find the Futur is just too bulky.

 

[NooB LoKi]

Guy goes to his doctor and says, "Hey Doc, it hurts when I do this".
Doctor says, "Well, then don't do that."

Kinda goes for ATG. But your best chance of success is two good WTG passes, a good relather, and go at it with the spine of the razor nearly touching the face. Stretch the skin well. If you are DE, switch to straight. MUCH easier to do ATG with a straight than a DE. But why do you need to go ATG? Won't two WTG passes do you? If not, maybe work on your second pass technique.

I am using a DE razor. I have thought about using a st8 razor but i not sure i ready to make that investment.
The reason i want to try and go against the grain is for work. Work has a very strict dress code and i have to shave daily. My boss is a bit anal and she thinks i dont shave in the morning when i have the 5 o clock shadow showing up around noon time.

 

[NooB LoKi]

The Progess in a great choice. I find the Futur is just too bulky.

I have herd about the design flaws of the Progress like blade exposure being different on each side or the the the setting changing when u change the razor blade. That's y i was considering use a Futur

 

[SystemaCid]

I've used both. My Progress or Mergress I should say was all good to go with no deffects. The Futur suprisingly enough felt off, as far as each side feeling different. Aside from that, the head to me is excessivly big (making it difficult to shave under the nose). It's possible that Merkur's QA inspecters are slacking a bit now a days. Which ever one you choose, I hope it works out for you.

 

[adriang]

I forgot to mention in my post that I'm using a Fatboy which is adjustable, and I was using it on the most aggressive. I did ask a few questions about checking the settings during my shave. The last few I've done, 4 including today, which have been much better, I've had it set on 7, so 2 notches back from the most aggressive.

I've just gone and edited my original, just in case somebody stumbles across it in the future and it's useful!

Maybe a different razor. A milder razor is sometimes better when going against the grain. Have you tried an adjustable yet? A good strategy with a Progress or Fat/Slim Boy is to use an aggressive setting for your WTG and XTG passes. Then tone it down for your ATG pass. Have you considered getting a slant? The slicing action really reduces any skipping.

 

[NingYupOwaDat]

I only go against the grain with my Tech, the EJ doesn't work for me ATG.

 

[NooB LoKi]

Update:
Today i tried my hand at kyle prep. I will say that i will continue to do this as mt prep. I had less tugging and skipping resulting is less nicks. I still plan on buying a adjustable razor. Not sure what 1 yet or maybe a Merkur 37c. Not 100% sure what one.
Thanks for all the help and advice

 

[Cobra0369]

I agree with the above posts. Light pressure and shave prep.