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Need a New 8K

timwcic

"Look what I found"
I have the Gouken 4K and 8K for years and never had a bit of problems with them. The 8K is my jumping off point before I go natural
 
Unfortunately the crazing goes all the way through to the back. What would lead you to drying a stone on its side?
Do you find there is benefit in doing this with all stones or just synthetics?

when flat, water pooled on top takes longer to dry and the stone dries unevenly.
Water drains off faster when the stone is on it’s side and the stone dries more evenly. I dry all stones this way. Just seems to make sense to me. When possible I stand them up on the short end, slightly tipped and I swap sides after an hour or so.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
Hey @Dcaddo Apparently the grit distribution is not the same in all the Glass Stones. Grit is not uniform in any synthetic stone, it’s a distribution of grits. Think of a bell curve. IOW, the 16k and other ‘not recommended’ stones will have a wider distribution of grit than one that is recommended for razors. I ran onto this with the 0.44u G7 David, Ishida-san said that it was not recommended for razors but the 0.85 is, or at least is OK, he said that since I had the 0.85u I did not need the 0.44u. I really didn’t need it because the 0.44u I had was defective and shed chunks!

So for example - and I am making this up - the 16k Glass may have grit from 8k to 24k, averaging 16k, while the 10k (recommended) might have grit from 9k to 11k, averaging 10k. So the 16k would have some grit in it that‘s coarser than the 10k.

That’s my understanding from different conversations over the years. The Glass stones recommenced for razors are the 3k, 10k, and 30k. I use the 2k and 4k all the time (‘OK” for razors) and even the 1k and 500 (not recommended) on eBay beaters that aren’t quite bad enough for a diamond plate. Of course I go to a fast jnat after 4k Glass, and a super fast jnat will cure a lot of problems.
 
when flat, water pooled on top takes longer to dry and the stone dries unevenly.
Water drains off faster when the stone is on it’s side and the stone dries more evenly. I dry all stones this way. Just seems to make sense to me. When possible I stand them up on the short end, slightly tipped and I swap sides after an hour or so.
So at first the crazing seemed to run through out the entire stone but upon closer examination (most of it can only be seen when the stone is mildly damp and in the right light) it is actually in the interior portion of the stone with some spiderwebbing out. I guess I’m drying all my stones on their sides from now on.
 
when flat, water pooled on top takes longer to dry and the stone dries unevenly.
Water drains off faster when the stone is on it’s side and the stone dries more evenly. I dry all stones this way. Just seems to make sense to me. When possible I stand them up on the short end, slightly tipped and I swap sides after an hour or so.
I do the same.
 
Well sharpeningsupplies.com has gone ahead and made my decision for me.
I sent them an email to see if Naniwa
had a warranty (though I wasn’t expecting them to) and they said no naniwa doesn’t but that they would send me a new one anyway. Thanks for all the insights. I think going forward I’ll be all about shapton. Maybe very soon even. I think I’m gonna get a 3k glass for jumping of to
my slow coticule or MS nagura progression.
 
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