My Wet Shaving Journey

[gablett]

Great review.

What's the gap?

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I know nothing about PAA's other scents, and I'm not a huge fan of the PAA soaps I've tried (although they're okay), but these splashes rock. I've tried quite a few bay rums I like and like 'em all. Atomic Age Bay Rum is the best, with a long lasting scent as a bonus. PAA nailed it! Beach is not as long lasting, but it's great, too.

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These are my daily splashes. I use them to the exclusion of just about everything else, but there are plenty of great scents. Of course scents are subjective.

Happy shaves,

Jim

It is the "C" plate which is listed as their site as : C - gap = 0.85mm / exposure = positive 0.09mm

I'm admittedly not a huge Bay Rum fan, but I do prefer PAA's take on it. I would like to get Pineapple Bay Rum as I like the sample I have. I do agree their splash is more of a cologne than an aftershave. They last a long time.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

It is the "C" plate which is listed as their site as : C - gap = 0.85mm / exposure = positive 0.09mm

I'm admittedly not a huge Bay Rum fan, but I do prefer PAA's take on it. I would like to get Pineapple Bay Rum as I like the sample I have. I do agree their splash is more of a cologne than an aftershave. They last a long time.

Thanks.

Generally I can shave with any razor I've tried, but the ones which work best for me in the DE arena are the very low gap, very low gap span razors. The Gillette Old Type fits this bill I think, and I know the Fatip razors do. I think some blade exposure is nice to have in a DE razor, but I don't know how much. I like a rigid blade.

It's not that I've not read on the subject, but I confess to not really understanding or knowing what makes a razor smooth, efficient, and not aggressive (as in prone to jumping out of the bushes and taking a bite).

Check out the gap on the FOCS. A member measured it. Here's the link to his post. Tiny, isn't it.

From my exploration of the Karve plates and their buying advice there isn't a Karve razor likely to suit me, which is all the pity as they are very nice looking plus I know lots of gentlemen like them.

Their brass is about $100 or so. My brass OC slant Fatip cost what? Maybe $30. Something like that.

I'm not knocking Karve razors since after all I have never even seen one. Mostly I'm thinking about what goes into a razor suitable for an individual and why is one razor suitable for you but not me whereas the one suitable for me is a disaster for you?

Sometimes I think about the super expensive razors which are make to order in terms of some of the parameters such as gap. I am not sure I'd be able to determine what to order. Still, I have tried a lot of razors and have some idea what I like and don't like, or what doesn't work well.

It's not just the closeness and the smoothness of my skin after a shave. For me it's always a Damn Comfortable Shave first and foremost that I seek and value. That doesn't mean I am not into efficiency along with comfort.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[gablett]

Sorry for the radio silence for a bit. Been some changes lately.

First off on the shave it was great. Really liking A&E. My face felt a little dry after I used it the first time. Might have just been the day, because that was not the case this time. Lathers great. Very forgiving, great properties. Smells wonderful. I think so far of the A&E I have tried, they are some of the strongest scented soaps out there. Thoroughly enjoying the Karve. Don't see myself using a different razor. Ive already sold some of the ones I know I will never use again. I had been using the Nacet blade, but I revisited the Astra SP and I found it paired with it much better for me. Got a 100% BBS shave. I didnt know what BBS was until this shave lol.

Now to address the elephant in the room. Yes that is a badger knot in my Dogwoods custom handle. If there is one thing I have learned its that if you are going to try something you have to go all in, give it an honest long term shot. I did that with synthetic brushes. I dove in head first and used nothing but them for a long time. I called it my utilitarian experiment. And purely from that perspective, they get the job done and they get it done very well. I found one in particular I like a lot. But they lack character and I found myself missing that. If I wanted to do this job strictly from a utilitarian perspective, 99% of what I have I dont need. Lets be honest, we dont do this for that reason. Its about spoiling ourselves and variety. So after giving it an honest shot, I kept a couple I really liked and went back home to badger. I'm not afraid to admit when I was wrong. The knot in this dogwoods handle was put in with silicone. So with a little hot water and some effort it came out flawlessly. I, based on several reviews, got a Maggards SHD 26mm 2 band fan knot for it. I absolutely love it. Like applying soap with a cloud. I forgot how much character badger has, how much it blooms, how nice it is that it holds warm water. I actually felt it was easier to lather with this due to it holding water. With synthetic you basically need one brush, as all the knots of your favorite type feel the same. And lets be honest, who is here to only own one brush. The variety you get with badger is even different from the same batch of knots. I missed that. Im glad I did my experiment, but Im back to badger in a big way. More to come.

 

[Benzadmiral]

View attachment 1100029

Had a great shave.

. . .

What I learned:
- I like a grippy handle.
- Every other day shaving is perfect for my face and hair growth.
- Its best to set aside enough time to shave without worrying about the time.

Exactly. I've been shaving recently on the days when I don't exercise, so I'm not rushed before I head out the door; or on Saturday and Sunday, when I can arrange my errands properly. If you hurry your shave, you're almost certainly going to regret it.

 

[gablett]

Badger brush #2. TDR wood handle with Maggard 26mm 2-band. This is the non SHD version. I think I prefer the SHD. The SHD feels more like one piece, and this you can feel more of individual hairs. Still extremely soft. Touch more scrub and backbone. I have not had a brush with this handle shape. Not my favorite but its easy to use. Its a little on the long side. Definitely enjoy the brushes. It might just be mental or coincidence but it seems to make a better lather more quickly when face lathering. Might be the nature of the badger hairs and the fact that there are so many of them it seems to make a more dense voluminous lather.

Did my typical 30 second load on this and its way too much for PAA. Something about it just explodes the lather. Like so much its tough to keep it from just falling out of the brush. Definitely something with the PAA soaps that just makes a ton of thick lather. Great shave. Astra SP is performing great.

 

[gablett]

Badger brush #3. Grizzly bay glow in the dark handle with a Maggard 2 band SHD fan 26mm. Im really enjoying these knots. They seem to do everything right down the middle as far as scrub, softness and backbone. And you can't beat the availability and the price. Handle is a cool shape and definitely high quality. Pretty neat that it glows in the dark too.

Returning to a personal favorite shave. I will say I think this Astra blade wasn't the greatest. It was the 3rd shave, which I usually toss it after that, but it felt pretty uncomfortable. Must have been just a less than perfect blade. Will see how the rest of this package goes. I had some older packages of them and these are brand new so hopefully its not an old vs new quality issue because I really liked the older ones. Im guessing its just a dud blade.

I find with the water retention of the badger brushes I can load and lather so much easier. I struggled to get the right amount of water in the synth brushes. Either it was too much or too dry. This I soak during my shower, give it a squeeze and its perfect. I get a quality lather much quicker. I think there is a tiny bit more waste of lather at the end, but I have so much soap it doesnt even matter.

 

[gablett]

Badger brush #4. Custom Turn N Shave hybrid with a tip knot. More on that later. After the issues with Peaches & Cognac I didn't think Id ever get along with A&E again. But the more I am trying the more I am liking. This smells really good. Nice warm scent. Great for cold weather. I get the Bourbon and Vanilla. This one is a little more firm than the other soaps. Easy to lather. Part of that might be now that I am using badger though. Its so much easier to have the right amount of water in the knot to lather. Plus it doesn't all leak out, its held in there. Got a nice slick, dense lather. The scent really sticks with you too. The Karve continues to be the best all around razor I have used. And I find the Astra SP is the perfect blade for it. Smooth and sharp. Every time I use it when I'm done I think that went so easy, so smooth, and no weepers that it can't be a BBS yet it always is. Couldn't be happier.

Now on the brush. This is the first luxury knot I have used. People often say that the density and softness is what makes the difference and that it is like a wall of badger. Now I understand what that means. The SHD from Maggard is a great knot and is very dense. But this is another level. It feels like one piece of hair. You cant feel any of the individual hairs. Its like lathering with a pillow. Its so soft. Knot is set a little lower so there is more backbone on this one too. I couldnt understand the density part, thinking that the SHD is plenty dense, and it is. But now i know what that means. And I like it. Tips gel like crazy on this knot as well. Its more of a lather hog though which seems to be the trade off. Very impressed. The handle is amazing. The amber is like another level of crystal clear and glass smooth. I can see why there is a wait list for his handles. Its literally flawless. The burl on the inside is super cool. Im becoming a pretty big hybrid fan and see more in my future.

 

[gablett]

Badger brush #5. Sawdust Creation Starlight hybrid with another Maggard 26mm SHD 2 Band. I'm really liking this knot if you hadn't guessed. Beautiful handle. Very ergonomic shape. Much more of a gloss finish than the other hybrids I have. First line Fallout in the 3.0 base performed well. Needs a ton of water. One of the thirstiest soaps I have used. Similar to PAA but its a much more dense lather. Scent is strong. Like A&E strong. I wouldnt have the slightest clue how to describe the scent other than like old school cologne. I get none of the individual scents notes so it is blended well. Much more of a firm soap base. Label is very nice and high quality. Splash reminds me more of A&E type splash, less like a Declaration Splash. Karve is still far and away my favorite razor. I still use the PAA cube before each shave and it is definitely adding slickness. Best thing PAA has made by far. Best pre shave I have used. Astra SP blades are still giving me great shaves. I toss them after 3 shaves. They can definitely go past that, but I have a ton and they are cheap so why risk having a sub par shave. Definitely in a groove now and enjoying the shave, not thinking about how to improve or technique which is nice.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

So, do you like the Maggard SHD 2 band? Especially in 26 mm?

From what you've said about it you like the SHD a lot more than the non-SHD 2 band version Maggard also sells. You like the fact that the SHD is more of a gel knot.

My only brush with a gel knot is this AP Shave Gelousy. It's not horrible, in my view of it, but some guys find it disgusting. They seem to be describing the same sort of things you describe with your SHD Maggard knot. However, you like those qualities and they don't. I'm not in the extreme group, but it's a brush I have grown to not enjoy. Instead of the brush growing on me the opposite happened. I don't use it. I wouldn't buy another one. What I don't like is the gel. Gel is an anti-selling point for me. I want to feel the knot and the individual hairs of my badgers. To each his own, right.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[gablett]

So, do you like the Maggard SHD 2 band? Especially in 26 mm?

From what you've said about it you like the SHD a lot more than the non-SHD 2 band version Maggard also sells. You like the fact that the SHD is more of a gel knot.

View attachment 1175242

My only brush with a gel knot is this AP Shave Gelousy. It's not horrible, in my view of it, but some guys find it disgusting. They seem to be describing the same sort of things you describe with your SHD Maggard knot. However, you like those qualities and they don't. I'm not in the extreme group, but it's a brush I have grown to not enjoy. Instead of the brush growing on me the opposite happened. I don't use it. I wouldn't buy another one. What I don't like is the gel. Gel is an anti-selling point for me. I want to feel the knot and the individual hairs of my badgers. To each his own, right.

Happy shaves,

Jim

I do really enjoy that knot. I don't have a ton of experience with a ton of Badger knots. TDR, Maggard 2 band and SHD 2 band, Maggard 70/30, and the TNS tip knot. As far as badger, the 2 band is almost no gel, the TNS is tons of gel, and the SHD is between. The TNS tip knot feels like a wall of badger. It has great backbone and decent scrub. But it is definitely a gel knot. The 2 band feels like the SHD just with less backbone and it just feels less dense. Not in a bad way, just different. The SHD I wouldn't describe as a crazy gel knot with no "hair feel". It falls between the two. It has good backbone, not overly so, great scrub but feels dense. I will try to remember to get a picture of the tips wet tonight to show the amount of gel. I would say that the density reduces the feel of the hair, but does not eliminate it. I would say the tip knot just pretty much eliminate it. 26mm seems to be the sweet spot for me. I will be trying a 28 soon and will know for sure then.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I do really enjoy that knot. I don't have a ton of experience with a ton of Badger knots. TDR, Maggard 2 band and SHD 2 band, Maggard 70/30, and the TNS tip knot. As far as badger, the 2 band is almost no gel, the TNS is tons of gel, and the SHD is between. The TNS tip knot feels like a wall of badger. It has great backbone and decent scrub. But it is definitely a gel knot. The 2 band feels like the SHD just with less backbone and it just feels less dense. Not in a bad way, just different. The SHD I wouldn't describe as a crazy gel knot with no "hair feel". It falls between the two. It has good backbone, not overly so, great scrub but feels dense. I will try to remember to get a picture of the tips wet tonight to show the amount of gel. I would say that the density reduces the feel of the hair, but does not eliminate it. I would say the tip knot just pretty much eliminate it. 26mm seems to be the sweet spot for me. I will be trying a 28 soon and will know for sure then.

Ah, that helps.

Some 26 mm knots are bigger than some 28 mm knots.

I like 24 mm and up, especially up. Probably a big 26 mm is about perfect for me.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[gablett]

So I was asked about how the Maggard SHD 26mm fan 2-band gels. Here are pictures of the knot in the Dogwoods handle I have. It only has been used twice. The left picture is fresh out of the soaking bowl and the right picture is after a couple shakes. I don't know a ton about gelling tips but to me it looks like it has some gel element to it. Either way I really like it.

 

[gablett]

And the grand finale of testing for me. I managed to get a Dogwood Handcrafts 28mm with a Declaration Grooming B8. I have to admit that I didn't understand how these could be this different that everything else on the upper end available. I can now unilaterally say I understand. I understand when people say a wall of badger that feels as soft as a pillow. The density of this knot is on another planet. Yet it maintains an extremely soft, pillow like softness. This is just incredible. The density is the most striking part of it. Its not super gelly. It might be that it has so many extra hairs, but it seemed to work up the lather faster and creamier. I honestly didnt want it to end. Its a 28mm knot but honestly doesnt look that much bigger than the 26mm knots I have. It doesnt have a ton of splay when dry. It has the perfect amount of backbone and scrub. But absolutely zero scritch. Like none. I always wondered when I asked people to describe what is so much better about them. Its difficult to describe until you try it for yourself. I understand now and its like nothing I have ever used before. For photo references for other I got some pictures of it compared to the other knots I have.

Maggard SHD 26mm Fan, Declaration B8, Turn N Shave tip knot.

Maggard, Declaration

Declaration, Tip knot

You can see the Maggard blooms huge. And as a result doesnt feel quite as dense. I think this is the major difference. The tips are certainly softer on the Declaration as well. The tip knot is much closer to the Declaration in terms of density and softness. You can see the density is closer but it also doesnt bloom as much and has more backbone. All 3 are great but across the board the Declaration is better. It has the best qualities of the other knots all in 1.

And I saved the Grail shave for this night. This is just heavenly. I absolutely loved this shave. This is the pinnacle of shaving luxury for me. I think the hair on my face just threw up the white flag and surrendered. All in all, if you can, you need to try one of these knots. I hope these comparisons have helped some. Obviously this is only 1 batch of hairs and the others may be very different. Now time to try to get some of the other batches to try as I am 100% hooked.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

You're in some tall cotton with that brush.

 

[gablett]

You're in some tall cotton with that brush.

I certainly feel privileged to have some nice gear. Makes for a little enjoyment in my life.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[gablett]

My second Declaration grooming brush. Scored an Elite Razor hybrid with a 28mm B9b. Probably the most gel of any of the Declaration brushes I have. The tips do look treated. It does not seem to be super gel tip by any means but it is far from broken in. So I imagine it will increase with time. It does not have quite the same extreme tip softness of the B8. But it has the same density and similar backbone. I imagine as it breaks in some it will get softer tips. This is in no way saying this is an inferior product, just different. At this level they are all fantastic and the differences get smaller and smaller. This is definitely the pinnacle of brushes for me anyway. The major difference I notice is the density of these brushes over the others. There are so many more hair fibers per inch than other brushes, even ones listed as super high density. This must be extremely high density lol. It definitely likes the lather. It will take some time for me to get used to loading these brushes as they pick up soap much easier so I need to load for less time. This was a wonderful shave. You can tell this scent is expertly blended. It is so well balanced and pleasant. I have also gone back to Nacet blades. Now that I am more familiar with this razor a sharper blade is advantageous and they last longer than Astras.

Some additional pictures of this beautiful brush.

 

[gablett]

And my 3rd Declaration Grooming knot. A 24mm B3 in a wolf whiskers handle. Amazing black smoke coloring. Love the shape. Easy to hold. So I was hesitant to try this brush as it is presented as the "worst" of the declaration knots. If this is the worst, I'd say Scott has done pretty well. In my mind I associated scrub with some of the cheaper badgers with super strong backbone and scritch. This has an exfoliating feel but not scratchy and definitely splays easily. So its not low quality hair, its just the hair itself has more of a scrubbing quality to it. Its a wonderful experience, and a deviation from the pillow softness of the other Dec brushes. Even though it is 24mm it still feels massive due to the density and great splay. So I was incorrect in my mind of what I thought this brush would be. If you hate scrub, this may not be for you. But if you like through the roof density and a nice scrubbing action, this is the ideal brush for you.

CaD was great as usual. Still not loving menthol but its mild enough its not bad. Super easy to lather and I always end up with so much of it even though I try to load less and less each time.

I'm having so much fun trying out the different batches. But I'm learning at this level that the differences are minor and they are all great. It takes a much more discerning taste than mine to not like any of these.

More pictures of this brush as well as all the knots together.

24mm B3, 28mm B9b, 28mm B8

So my thoughts on these high end knots. My favorite is the B8, by a hair (lol). The turn n shave tip knot is between the B9b and the B3. It is very dense but has a lot of backbone so has a scrubbing sensation because it takes a bit of pressure to splay. The tips are soft and gelly. You can see the middle brush is lighter in color and the tips are definitely treated. They are all not good, but are fantastic. I could easily use any of them forever. If you are in the market for a Declaration knot, don't hesitate. They are extremely high quality.

 

[MilkCrate]

Beautiful collection of brushes and great reviews.

 

[gablett]

Sorry for the long hiatus. Been busy and spending most of my spare time on the lathe making brush handles. As soon as I saw this was a cousin to my favorite shave soap ever, Massacre of the Innocents, I had to try it. That is a accurate representation. Its unique and different, but it shares the same DNA. The base spicy notes are similar with a bit of a brighter fruity profile. Its delightful. Top 2 or 3 from Declaration for me. Wish there was a cologne for it. Just a pleasure to use as well as expected.

Used the B3 wolf whiskers. Its not my favorite declaration knot but its nice to have some variety. Still loving the Karve and the Nacet. I get 5 shaves out of a blade. Could get more but it gets unpredictable after that. So I toss them after 5 shaves. Karve is definitely the best razor I have used. Won't be going anywhere.

 

[gablett]

Great shave! Had to use this with my new brush as I think it matched well. The handle is made by, well, me. AKA Brushworx. Kinda surreal to use my own handle to shave with but I really like it. It has a Maggard's 26mm SHD Fan in it. I drilled the hole a little on the deeper side to get a nice backbone which I really like. Its nice to be able to tailor make a handle to what I enjoy most out of them. This fits my hand really well. I enjoy the character you get with wood that doesn't translate well to resin.

Opulence is a great scent. Kind of a lighter Massacre. Probably #3 from DG for me. MOTI, Sellout (which is the best Aventus dupe out there) and then this one. Karve is still fantastic. I don't have a desire to try a different razor. It really is that fantastic.