My subjective ranking of vintage Gillettes

[AshleyC]

Well, when I shave with a Gillette adjustable, be it Fatboy, Slim, Super Adjustable, or Soviet copy of Super Adjustable, I crank that thing to "11" (9) and blast "Stonehenge" by Spinal Tap while I shave.

My own recent observations of Gillettes lately...

The Tech, regardless of vintage, pre or post war, beats my Fatip Piccolo and Merkur 34C. I mean not even close. If somebody from Botswana was to post and say their dream razor is a 34C, I would step forward and eat the shipping cost to send my 34C to Botswana. And the fact I only paid $5 for my 34C has nothing to do with my generosity...

The only Super Speed that gets any face time these days is my red tip. I have a Korean War-era Super Speed with a black plastic tip and stainless steel handle, and probably three flare tips, but I just haven't used them in a while. They are just...boringly...adequate. I like a challenge. This is "sport shaving", after all. Not Ralph Cramden prepping for his job as a bus driver.

The Fatboy 195 was the high water mark of Gillette razors. Prior to that, all roads led to the Fatboy. I got that line from somebody on this forum. The Toggle? A mere essay in the craft. Like one of the lesser rings. Every adjustable after the Fatboy was an exercise in reducing cost. Less brass...then anodized aluminum.

 

[Umma2gumma]

Well, when I shave with a Gillette adjustable, be it Fatboy, Slim, Super Adjustable, or Soviet copy of Super Adjustable, I crank that thing to "11" (9) and blast "Stonehenge" by Spinal Tap while I shave.

My own recent observations of Gillettes lately...

The Tech, regardless of vintage, pre or post war, beats my Fatip Piccolo and Merkur 34C. I mean not even close. If somebody from Botswana was to post and say their dream razor is a 34C, I would step forward and eat the shipping cost to send my 34C to Botswana. And the fact I only paid $5 for my 34C has nothing to do with my generosity...

The only Super Speed that gets any face time these days is my red tip. I have a Korean War-era Super Speed with a black plastic tip and stainless steel handle, and probably three flare tips, but I just haven't used them in a while. They are just...boringly...adequate. I like a challenge. This is "sport shaving", after all. Not Ralph Cramden prepping for his job as a bus driver.

The Fatboy 195 was the high water mark of Gillette razors. Prior to that, all roads led to the Fatboy. I got that line from somebody on this forum. The Toggle? A mere essay in the craft. Like one of the lesser rings. Every adjustable after the Fatboy was an exercise in reducing cost. Less brass...then anodized aluminum.

I guess everyone’s faces are different.

I have two Techs, a Pre-War with triangular slots, and a ‘61 Post-War with oval slots. Both are in good mechanical condition, the ‘61 looks almost brand new, the pre-war has some plating issues (not even loss,rather dulling) but is in a better shape than most I see on the eBay. So I assume they are functioning exactly as designed.

They are very different.

The ‘61 is mild to a fault. I could load it with a Feather and shave with quick broad strokes with my eyes closed and it would not bite. But the shave is not close. It is also very sensitive to the shaving angle.

The pre-war is a very close and efficient shaver. But it does require a measure of care. It will cut if I am careless. It is not as angle-sensitive.

I also have two 40’s style Superspeeds and two Flare tips (56 and a ‘67 with a black aluminum handle). They, too, shave very differently. The 40s are closer to the pre-war Tech, they are efficient but not overly smooth. The flare tips are much more efficient than the ’61 Tech, a little less efficient than the pre-war Tech or 40s style, and very smooth. The ‘56 with a brass handle has more heft than the ‘67 with a lighter aluminum handle, and this helps with pressure. But they are really close. None of the Superspeeds are very angle-sensitive.

 

[mozartman]

The only vintage razor I use regularly is my 1967 Slim. It was well-used but gently treated by its original owner and is still in good alignment. Hard to believe something like that still works properly, I assume with no repairs or significant maintenance.

 

[Joezamboni]

I guess everyone’s faces are different.

I have two Techs, a Pre-War with triangular slots, and a ‘61 Post-War with oval slots. Both are in good mechanical condition, the ‘61 looks almost brand new, the pre-war has some plating issues (not even loss,rather dulling) but is in a better shape than most I see on the eBay. So I assume they are functioning exactly as designed.

They are very different.

The ‘61 is mild to a fault. I could load it with a Feather and shave with quick broad strokes with my eyes closed and it would not bite. But the shave is not close. It is also very sensitive to the shaving angle.

The pre-war is a very close and efficient shaver. But it does require a measure of care. It will cut if I am careless. It is not as angle-sensitive.

I also have two 40’s style Superspeeds and two Flare tips (56 and a ‘67 with a black aluminum handle). They, too, shave very differently. The 40s are closer to the pre-war Tech, they are efficient but not overly smooth. The flare tips are much more efficient than the ’61 Tech, a little less efficient than the pre-war Tech or 40s style, and very smooth. The ‘56 with a brass handle has more heft than the ‘67 with a lighter aluminum handle, and this helps with pressure. But they are really close. None of the Superspeeds are very angle-sensitive.

Now you need a 62-66 superspeed. Same flatter head as the 67 but with the heftier handle.

The ”notched” head design seems about the same from 1948-1961 with the superspeeds. I personally can’t tell a difference visually but the handle seems to make a world a of a difference with the experience. I ended up going after USA aristocrats for the nicer aesthetics with the handle and more weight. I also like the English flair tips but the HD500 is the real scale tipper for that head style (if you don’t want to use a 4th gen English Aristocrat daily). My current favorite is my backroadsgold Fatboy, for now.

Have you tried a flat bottom tech yet? Perfect in between where it’s a tad milder than a USA pre war and a bit more assertive then the USA post war.

 

[Hannah's Dad]

That was the No.48 Aristocrat Junior that you have mentioned in another thread I recall

A fantastic shaver!

I think you would like this one @Umma2gumma.

These are incredibly rare. I let one slip through my fingers several year ago.

 

[Tallships]

I've shaved with a Slim for about 60 years, I get a fantastic BBS most of the time but for the past few years I've gotten to like the Fatboy better, it seems I'm more comfortable shaving with it.

 

[Phil Dumont]

I own a Gillette Slim ('61), very good on setting 4 or 5.
But my n°58 (the one in a red box) british Gillette Aristocrat gives me a smoother shave, this Aristocrat is for me one of my best razors, together with Rockwell 6C (plate 4), Fatip Piccolo OC and Yaqi Mellon. All smooth and precise for me.

I also tried a Tech (ball end, England made) but found it to be too mild and also had to use the correct angle always, not easy to get a BBS.

 

[Lord NSIC]

Going to add my requisite New Improved 2 cents, as well as the SC New, American/English Aristocrat, all Fatboys and Red Tips. Honorable mentions are Old Type Big Fellow, and Flare Tip SuperSpeeds before 1962 when the head changed to the slimmer style.

 

[Quaznoid]

I have 6 vintage Gillettes in my regular rotation. All give excellent shaves but there are fine differences. In order of ease of use, I rank them:

1. 1978 SuperAdjustable 109, a “Black Beauty”. Effortless, forgiving, very close at 8 or 9, the best DE in my den.

2. 1973 Black-handle, flare tip SuperSpeed. My first razor, purchased new for $1.99 with 5 blades. Almost as easy to use as the 109, the short handle makes it very maneuverable. With more blade exposure it would equal the 109.

3. Pre war Fat-handle Tech. Struggled with it at first. Narrow angle of attack but once found gives very good shave.

4. Post war Ball-handle Tech. The 2 Techs are virtually tied. Some days I prefer the heavy but short handle for its maneuverability.

5. Old Type 3-piece, circa 1919. Slightly more forgiving shave angle than the Techs, it feels slightly clumsy in the hand, but provides reliable BBS.

6. 1966 Slim. A marvel of engineering, it is too heavy and large overall. If the 109 is a motorcycle, the Slim is a cement truck. I get great BBS shaves from it, but I don’t enjoy using as much as the others.

 

[Umma2gumma]

Now you need a 62-66 superspeed. Same flatter head as the 67 but with the heftier handle.

The ”notched” head design seems about the same from 1948-1961 with the superspeeds. I personally can’t tell a difference visually but the handle seems to make a world a of a difference with the experience. I ended up going after USA aristocrats for the nicer aesthetics with the handle and more weight. I also like the English flair tips but the HD500 is the real scale tipper for that head style (if you don’t want to use a 4th gen English Aristocrat daily). My current favorite is my backroadsgold Fatboy, for now.

Have you tried a flat bottom tech yet? Perfect in between where it’s a tad milder than a USA pre war and a bit more assertive then the USA post war.

I have a ‘56 flare tip Superspeed and a ‘67 black handle one, didn’t realize the heads were different. They shave very similarly but I do prefer the heavier older one.

I also like the “40s style”, they are a bit more efficient but also less mild, and require more attention while shaving.

Haven’t had a chance to try a flat bottom tech. By your description it seems to be about the same as the “40s style” SS.

 

[Umma2gumma]

Going to add my requisite New Improved 2 cents, as well as the SC New, American/English Aristocrat, all Fatboys and Red Tips. Honorable mentions are Old Type Big Fellow, and Flare Tip SuperSpeeds before 1962 when the head changed to the slimmer style.

Out of the ones you listed, I only used a ’56 flare tip, and it’s my favorite vintage Gillette with regard to the quality of shaving.

 

[Umma2gumma]

I have 6 vintage Gillettes in my regular rotation. All give excellent shaves but there are fine differences. In order of ease of use, I rank them:

1. 1978 SuperAdjustable 109, a “Black Beauty”. Effortless, forgiving, very close at 8 or 9, the best DE in my den.

2. 1973 Black-handle, flare tip SuperSpeed. My first razor, purchased new for $1.99 with 5 blades. Almost as easy to use as the 109, the short handle makes it very maneuverable. With more blade exposure it would equal the 109.

3. Pre war Fat-handle Tech. Struggled with it at first. Narrow angle of attack but once found gives very good shave.

4. Post war Ball-handle Tech. The 2 Techs are virtually tied. Some days I prefer the heavy but short handle for its maneuverability.

5. Old Type 3-piece, circa 1919. Slightly more forgiving shave angle than the Techs, it feels slightly clumsy in the hand, but provides reliable BBS.

6. 1966 Slim. A marvel of engineering, it is too heavy and large overall. If the 109 is a motorcycle, the Slim is a cement truck. I get great BBS shaves from it, but I don’t enjoy using as much as the others.

Everyone’s faces are different…

I have a ‘71 Super 109 and a ‘72 Super 84. The shorter handle makes a lot of difference, I find it far easier to maneuver and find the right angle than the 109. That said, both are a little too mild at low settings and a little too aggressive at high settings. I think this may have something to do with blade support.

My pre-war Tech and ‘61 Tech are like night and day. The pre-war one is highly efficient and fairly aggressive. The ’61 is way too mild.

In order of “enjoyment” right now I’d rate my Gillettes as such:

‘56 Superspeed, ‘67 Superspeed - highly enjoyable. Smooth and efficient.

‘40s style Superspeed - very enjoyable, more efficient but less smooth.

Pre-war tech - close to 40s style, a little more aggressive.

‘72 Super 84 - that’s my borderline razor, I like it one day and not so much another time.

New LC - very efficient but also prone to scratching. Not a daily driver.

‘71 Super 109 - a “meh” brother of Super 84. Harder for me to find the right angle. I think I just need to “unlock” it.

‘62 Slims - I just don’t like the way they shave. Beautiful razors and mechanical wonders though.

‘62 Tech - just not for me. Way, way too mild.

 

[Happy Jack]

With this in mind, here are a few more vintage Gillettes for you to consider trying.

1. Old Type. They're not an autopilot razor, but they are both relatively smooth and quite efficient. It's worth trying one to see what you think.
   
   
2. Open-comb pre-war Aristocrat. As much as I love my '61 Super Speed, my OC Aristocrat shaves just as smoothly but is much more efficient.
   
   
3. Fatboy. For me, the Fatboy is a smoother shave than either the Slim or the Super Adjustable. Gillette changed the head design on its TTOs to a slimmer design in 1962 (on both the adjustables and the Super Speeds), and I find this slimmer design doesn't shave as smoothly as the older design. So, for example, my '66 Super Speed is slightly rougher than my '61. The Fatboy uses the older head design and shaves very smoothly for me.

For what it's worth, I completely agree with you about the Super Speed vs. the Tech. The SS is the easiest DE razor I've ever tried, where the Tech requires some focus.

The Fatboy and the Old Type are two of my favourite razors. I can get very close to a BBS with either, particularly the Fatboy. Both have been in my regular rotation for months. The Old Type fitted with an R41 baseplate is probably my favourite DE razor ever (it shaves the same as the 2014 R41, imho).

 

[Hannah's Dad]

I only have 3 vintage razors and no desire to acquire another. They are a Goodwill #160, a British Flat Bottom Tech and a British Raised Flat Bottom New (two piece #77). They are all wonderful shavers.

 

[ewk]

A Tech and a shim is a thing of shaving beauty.

 

[Lord NSIC]

A Tech and a shim is a thing of shaving beauty.

shim above or below the blade?

 

[ewk]

shim above or below the blade?

I go below, to increase gap.

 

[eSteve]

I have some Techs, I've liked a couple of them, one seemed quite a bit milder. I have a bunch of SuperSpeed too. They're all good. My technique is the biggest variable in trying to understand these razors. It's all true, what guys say about them. You don't even have to shave them to know. Ignore extreme or too popular opinions, take an average of the rest. That's it.

I've been testing some of the razors mentioned. I'm looking for balance: comfortable, and efficient.

Slim Adjustable
Diplomat
Rocket HD
Aristocrat Jr. 2nd gen
'47 Aristocrat

Somethin' like that. I tested the Slim against the fixed TTOs, it was my first go with it. Being able to change the blade on a one-pass-plus shave was very efficient. Very close. And comfortable.

I'm going to shave now, it's the Diplomat's turn.

 

[Lord NSIC]

I have several Techs (a couple of Travel Techs from the 60s), but mostly post-war Techs and a fat handle pre-war tech and the WWII bakelite handle, both with the triangle cutouts. The Fat Handle and especially the bakelite version are much more efficient/aggressive than the rectangular post war models and are much more prone to bite if you don't pay attention.

 

[Happy Jack]

shim above or below the blade?

Instead of the blade. It shaves just like a DE89.