My subjective ranking of vintage Gillettes

[Umma2gumma]

I've had a complicated relationship with vintage Gillettes. For a longest time, I just couldn't find any that would give me as great (that is, BBS quality and carefree) shave a what I was getting daily with my modern Variants or V3As.

I went onto a vintage Gillette acquisition spree early this year in order to solve this once and for all.

Still don't have the level of love many other people have for them, even though I found the ones that do work great.

So, here's my rating... It's very subjective. Roughly arranged in the ascending order of personal preference.

'61 Tech - just too mild. Very sensitive to the shaving angle. Even with the right shaving angle and a very sharp blade getting BBS requires extra work that results in inflammation from too many passes. A great razor if you just want a socially acceptable DFS with little work.

'62 Slim - I have two. Absolutely love the design from the engineering perspective. Had both replated by BackRoadsGold. They are stunning.
But.. the shaves are just not super comfortable. At least not repeatably so. I can get a BBS at settings as low as 3 to 5, but every now and then I get a nick or an irritated spot. They are just a little "angry" and somewhat angle sensitive.

New LC - it's a very close shaver. But, it can get bitey. Requires attention.

'71 Super 109 - similar to the Slim, but a long light handle makes for a different balance and overall feel.

'72 Super 84 - the shorter handle makes a lot of difference, I find it much easier to maneuver. It's a little more efficient than Slims, a little more forgiving, but still needs attention to the shaving angle.

40's style Superspeed - now we are getting into the ones I actually enjoy shaving with. They are very efficient but do require attention as can get a little bitey if careless.

Pre-War (triangular slot) Tech - very similar to the 40s style SS. Highly efficient, can produce great shaves but requires some care.

Flare tip Superspeed (I have two, a 1956 all metal one and a 1967 with a black handle) - now we are talking perfection. Very forgiving, smooth yet efficient especially with a sharp blade. Excellent shavers. Not sensitive to the shaving angle. Out of the too, I prefer the '56 as it's a little heavier, but both are fantastic. They are the only vintage Gillettes that I absolutely get along with any day. (And I was actually avoiding them for a while, as I read someone's comment that they shave the same as the contemporary Techs, which is - in my opinion - not even close).

 

[kirbyg]

'62 Slim - I have two. Absolutely love the design from the engineering perspective. Had both replated by BackRoadsGold. They are stunning.
But.. the shaves are just not super comfortable. At least not repeatably so. I can get a BBS at settings as low as 3 to 5, but every now and then I get a nick or an irritated spot. They are just a little "angry" and somewhat angle sensitive.

Nice to know it's not just me. I know a lot of people love the slims and fatboys, but to me they are just ok and nothing special, but with either of my super speeds my face damn near shaves itself.

 

[NorthernSoul]

You missed a few! What about the New Short Comb? Red Tip Superspeed? There is also a Canadian version of the pre-war Tech that is a bit more aggressive.

Always good to remember that Gillette for the most part is made for the person wanting a comfortable daily shave. Not so much for the person seeking BBS perfection (that seems to be a modern hobbyist obsession). Back in the day, you would not expect a BBS shave even with a straight razor. The goal of a close shave was avoiding the dreaded 5 O'clock shadow.

 

[Alum Ladd]

I've found in four years+ of exclusively using vintages, with the added benefit of much better contemporary blades than were available certainly up to the very late 50's, that a BBS shave is easily attainable.

One has to approach each type as being unique in terms of especially angle of use and to a lesser extent pressure.

A DFS+ is routine.

You just have to know what you are doing and master every model you acquire.

That, with the mystique of simply using one with it's hidden history is the joy of owning them.

 

[Guido75]

It’s always a YMMV thing of course. My Old Types are definitely BBS razors. My Techs can be too if I have a good day as operator.

Given your experience with the Flare Tip you might want to try out the British Rocket HD. I first thought it was supermild, but having used it now for an extended time period I think it’s over of my most effective autopilot (still very close anyways!) razors!

At least you had fun researching right! Can be useful information for others.

Cheers!

Guido

 

[Umma2gumma]

You missed a few! What about the New Short Comb? Red Tip Superspeed? There is also a Canadian version of the pre-war Tech that is a bit more aggressive.

Always good to remember that Gillette for the most part is made for the person wanting a comfortable daily shave. Not so much for the person seeking BBS perfection (that seems to be a modern hobbyist obsession). Back in the day, you would not expect a BBS shave even with a straight razor. The goal of a close shave was avoiding the dreaded 5 O'clock shadow.

Back in the day (well my day) I had pitch black hair and pale skin. If I didn’t get BBS at 6:30 I’d look like a Mexican bandit by 3 pm. BBS to me is not a luxury, it’s a necessity. Although now that my stubble is gray, I could care less - if no for almost four decades of habit

 

[Umma2gumma]

You missed a few! What about the New Short Comb? Red Tip Superspeed? There is also a Canadian version of the pre-war Tech that is a bit more aggressive.

Always good to remember that Gillette for the most part is made for the person wanting a comfortable daily shave. Not so much for the person seeking BBS perfection (that seems to be a modern hobbyist obsession). Back in the day, you would not expect a BBS shave even with a straight razor. The goal of a close shave was avoiding the dreaded 5 O'clock shadow.

I just listed the ones that I personally own and used.

 

[DesertIguana]

This question has no right or wrong answers, as the replies are going to be different like people face, skin, and beard. Rumor is
Gillete BESt were Ranger Tech, and Aristocrats. Then add upgrade short run Fatboy replace by Newer Slim.
Last do not forget the TECH.

 

[fengcs]

It's all Aristocrats in the end......

 

[Mojo88]

When I first returned to wet shaving I found an Aristocrat in a box of razors at an antique store. Being totally naive, I sold it to buy a Fatboy and thought I would be getting an upgrade. I couldn’t have been more wrong in my decision. I went through multiple razors until I found that a President gave similar results. It’s a YMMV but Presidents and Aristocrats give me the best shave compared to anything else be it new or vintage.

 

[DesertIguana]

I think some people can not grip that some old vintage razor that was sold new before they were born, could still be functional, and provide good shave.

Maybe this is reason people chase the Modern Grail Razor spewing big bucks to acquire.

 

[wetshaver233]

I've had a huge collection of vintage razors, most of which were from Gillette and ended up selling them a few years ago. From what I remember, I've got my best shaves from my Toggle, 36 US Aristocrat, pretty much any US or British NEW (except for the NEW SC and the NEW De Luxe) and the various British, Canadian and US Goodwills that are somewhat based to the NEW series instead of the Old Type.

 

[Alum Ladd]

When I first returned to wet shaving I found an Aristocrat in a box of razors at an antique store. Being totally naive, I sold it to buy a Fatboy and thought I would be getting an upgrade. I couldn’t have been more wrong in my decision. I went through multiple razors until I found that a President gave similar results. It’s a YMMV but Presidents and Aristocrats give me the best shave compared to anything else be it new or vintage.

That was the No.48 Aristocrat Junior that you have mentioned in another thread I recall

A fantastic shaver!

I think you would like this one @Umma2gumma.

 

[Umma2gumma]

I think some people can not grip that some old vintage razor that was sold new before they were born, could still be functional, and provide good shave.

Maybe this is reason people chase the Modern Grail Razor spewing big bucks to acquire.

While this is a very subjective opinion, like anything shaving related, I’d say my modern razors - none of which cost “big bucks” - provide better shave - to me - than most vintage razors with the exception of Superspeeds.

My top three razors are Parker Variants (the original and OC), Maggard V3A, and a 2019 (slightly gentler) version of Mühle R41.

The common traits that make them so great for me is the combination of being fairly aggressive yet at the same time very forgiving and smooth. I can shave with V3A very quickly with broad strokes and paying little attention to the shaving angle, yet get a close and comfortable shave every time. R41 needs short strokes but is equally pleasant and forgiving. Variant is anywhere in between depending on the setting.

The only vintage razors that are in the same range - again, for me - are the flare tip Superspeeds. They are more on the mild side but still very efficient and forgiving. The rest all require more attention and can give a rough shave seemingly out of the blue.

 

[BigJ]

I've had a complicated relationship with vintage Gillettes. For a longest time, I just couldn't find any that would give me as great (that is, BBS quality and carefree) shave a what I was getting daily with my modern Variants or V3As.

I went onto a vintage Gillette acquisition spree early this year in order to solve this once and for all.

Still don't have the level of love many other people have for them, even though I found the ones that do work great.

So, here's my rating... It's very subjective. Roughly arranged in the ascending order of personal preference.

'61 Tech - just too mild. Very sensitive to the shaving angle. Even with the right shaving angle and a very sharp blade getting BBS requires extra work that results in inflammation from too many passes. A great razor if you just want a socially acceptable DFS with little work.

'62 Slim - I have two. Absolutely love the design from the engineering perspective. Had both replated by BackRoadsGold. They are stunning.
But.. the shaves are just not super comfortable. At least not repeatably so. I can get a BBS at settings as low as 3 to 5, but every now and then I get a nick or an irritated spot. They are just a little "angry" and somewhat angle sensitive.

New LC - it's a very close shaver. But, it can get bitey. Requires attention.

'71 Super 109 - similar to the Slim, but a long light handle makes for a different balance and overall feel.

'72 Super 84 - the shorter handle makes a lot of difference, I find it much easier to maneuver. It's a little more efficient than Slims, a little more forgiving, but still needs attention to the shaving angle.

40's style Superspeed - now we are getting into the ones I actually enjoy shaving with. They are very efficient but do require attention as can get a little bitey if careless.

Pre-War (triangular slot) Tech - very similar to the 40s style SS. Highly efficient, can produce great shaves but requires some care.

Flare tip Superspeed (I have two, a 1956 all metal one and a 1967 with a black handle) - now we are talking perfection. Very forgiving, smooth yet efficient especially with a sharp blade. Excellent shavers. Not sensitive to the shaving angle. Out of the too, I prefer the '56 as it's a little heavier, but both are fantastic. They are the only vintage Gillettes that I absolutely get along with any day. (And I was actually avoiding them for a while, as I read someone's comment that they shave the same as the contemporary Techs, which is - in my opinion - not even close).

First, congrats on having a good collection to enjoy!!

Second, thanks for posting your experience!! I rank the Slim higher, but that‘s me.

And this is a FUN DISCUSSION!!

 

[profusion]

The common traits that make them so great for me is the combination of being fairly aggressive yet at the same time very forgiving and smooth.

With this in mind, here are a few more vintage Gillettes for you to consider trying.

1. Old Type. They're not an autopilot razor, but they are both relatively smooth and quite efficient. It's worth trying one to see what you think.
   
   
2. Open-comb pre-war Aristocrat. As much as I love my '61 Super Speed, my OC Aristocrat shaves just as smoothly but is much more efficient.
   
   
3. Fatboy. For me, the Fatboy is a smoother shave than either the Slim or the Super Adjustable. Gillette changed the head design on its TTOs to a slimmer design in 1962 (on both the adjustables and the Super Speeds), and I find this slimmer design doesn't shave as smoothly as the older design. So, for example, my '66 Super Speed is slightly rougher than my '61. The Fatboy uses the older head design and shaves very smoothly for me.

For what it's worth, I completely agree with you about the Super Speed vs. the Tech. The SS is the easiest DE razor I've ever tried, where the Tech requires some focus.

 

[DesertIguana]

While this is a very subjective opinion, like anything shaving related, I’d say my modern razors - none of which cost “big bucks” - provide better shave - to me - than most vintage razors with the exception of Superspeeds.

My top three razors are Parker Variants (the original and OC), Maggard V3A, and a 2019 (slightly gentler) version of Mühle R41.

The common traits that make them so great for me is the combination of being fairly aggressive yet at the same time very forgiving and smooth. I can shave with V3A very quickly with broad strokes and paying little attention to the shaving angle, yet get a close and comfortable shave every time. R41 needs short strokes but is equally pleasant and forgiving. Variant is anywhere in between depending on the setting.

The only vintage razors that are in the same range - again, for me - are the flare tip Superspeeds. They are more on the mild side but still very efficient and forgiving. The rest all require more attention and can give a rough shave seemingly out of the blue.

Thin Mr. Gillette was trying to capture 50-70 of Razor Buyers to buy his Razor & Blade.

His business model made him successful.

Today Wet Shavers have many choices, way more then Pre 1970.

More choice are good for everyone, never seen in person a Charcol Goods. They are apparently great. But now the only way to get on is Prr-Owned.

 

[Rustler]

Great thread! I really enjoy reading about the experiences that others have with different types of vintage Gillette razors.

I went down a SuperSpeed rabbit hole for many years, and owned and tried all of the different variations and colored tips. The SuperSpeed technology and design culminated with the flare tips, and I agree that those are the pinnacle of the SuperSpeed era. I think they all shaved great, and I enjoy them all, but the flare tip had the longest run and I consider them to be the best performers of the entire line. Sidenote that the 40's SuperSpeed was my first experience with a safety razor, and is still one of my favorite razors today.

Then I became interested in other "TTO" models, including the adjustables and other butterfly designs. I have a tremendous appreciation for the engineering and technology that was developed by Gillette to produce the adjustables, and again I think they are all more than capable of producing a great shave, and although I still reach for my FatBoy on a regular basis, I think there are a number of other vintage Gillette's that give a better shave than any of the adjustables.

The Tech's, in particular, are great examples of that. I also favor the SuperSpeeds over the adjustables as well, even though the adjustables are pretty cool razors and fine shavers in their own right.

I have yet to try a New or an Old Type. But I do have a Flat Bottom New on the way! Looking forward to trying that one!

I don't think I've met a vintage Gillette I haven't liked or got a great shave from, but there are still lots I haven't tried, so I'm looking forward to all of what people share in this thread, but for me, my favorites from what I've tried are:

• The fat handle tech from the tech line (although I haven't tried the flat bottom techs)
• The flare tip from the SuperSpeed line
• I'm partial to the FatBoy from the adjustable line, but that's based more on nostalgia than shave quality. I get great shaves with the FatBoy, for sure, even though I know others think the Super Adjustable was a better razor and design (and probably no argument from me on that one)

And I can't wait to try and learn more about other types of vintage Gillette's. There are so many of them! It feels like a bit of a "life's work" project to experience them. Looking forward to reading about the experiences of others in here.

Shave well!

 

[Umma2gumma]

With this in mind, here are a few more vintage Gillettes for you to consider trying.

1. Old Type. They're not an autopilot razor, but they are both relatively smooth and quite efficient. It's worth trying one to see what you think.
   
   
2. Open-comb pre-war Aristocrat. As much as I love my '61 Super Speed, my OC Aristocrat shaves just as smoothly but is much more efficient.
   
   
3. Fatboy. For me, the Fatboy is a smoother shave than either the Slim or the Super Adjustable. Gillette changed the head design on its TTOs to a slimmer design in 1962 (on both the adjustables and the Super Speeds), and I find this slimmer design doesn't shave as smoothly as the older design. So, for example, my '66 Super Speed is slightly rougher than my '61. The Fatboy uses the older head design and shaves very smoothly for me.

For what it's worth, I completely agree with you about the Super Speed vs. the Tech. The SS is the easiest DE razor I've ever tried, where the Tech requires some focus.

Thanks.

Tech is easy to shave with... just too easy. Way too mild. Getting a BBS is a challenge.

The pre-war Tech is highly efficient but can cut.

 

[kingfisher]

The best vintage Gillette I have ever tried is the Toggle.