So Im trying straights for the first time ever. Casting all good sense aside,
I have elected to have a brand new Koraat 7/8 w/ slightly smiling blade...
full bellied hollow grind (tough beards) and ivory/black paper micarta scales.
Here's my checklist of all the stuff I will need to make this work, do have a look-see and let me know if I missed
anything. I aim to make this a highly minimal set up so there won't be a lot of stuff.
1. 3" Premium Steerhide Old No.2 Leather & Linen strop (T. Miller)
2. Double-sided bench strop, rough texture on both sides, for touch up with green and red compounds (T. Miller)
3. Naniwa 3K/10K synthetic. Maker says 3K will set the bevel perfectly and 10K will give it a really sharp edge.
Then just a few strokes on green CrOx and should be good to go.
4. DMT 325 plate to lap the Naniwa stone.
5. Green and red finishing compound.
Some questions:
a. Do I really need one of those black stone holders while honing on the Naniwa or lapping it?
I'd much rather place it on a towel.
b. The green chrome oxide compound is 0.5 microns (40-60K grit) and the red one is Ferrous Oxide
0.1 micron...im scared to even imagine what grit that is...altho that formula sounds like rust to me.
Question is, can I just get by with green after the Naniwa 10K? What additional benefits does the red
confer?
c. These compounds come in crayon and paste....is one better than the other....I'll be applying to
a rough sided leather on a bench strop, not a cotton strop.
d. I initially wanted to get a hanging cotton strop for the green and red compound but settled for the bench strop.
I see these compounds more as part of honing rather than stropping...so I figured a really fat surface to move the
blade on would be helpful for a newbie like me so I don't compromise the bevel. Makes sense?
Am I on the right track here or way off base? I'll add more questions, observations as we go along.
I can't wait to make this project successful, if it works, I just want a Brian Brown semi-custom
and that will be it.
I have elected to have a brand new Koraat 7/8 w/ slightly smiling blade...
full bellied hollow grind (tough beards) and ivory/black paper micarta scales.
Here's my checklist of all the stuff I will need to make this work, do have a look-see and let me know if I missed
anything. I aim to make this a highly minimal set up so there won't be a lot of stuff.
1. 3" Premium Steerhide Old No.2 Leather & Linen strop (T. Miller)
2. Double-sided bench strop, rough texture on both sides, for touch up with green and red compounds (T. Miller)
3. Naniwa 3K/10K synthetic. Maker says 3K will set the bevel perfectly and 10K will give it a really sharp edge.
Then just a few strokes on green CrOx and should be good to go.
4. DMT 325 plate to lap the Naniwa stone.
5. Green and red finishing compound.
Some questions:
a. Do I really need one of those black stone holders while honing on the Naniwa or lapping it?
I'd much rather place it on a towel.
b. The green chrome oxide compound is 0.5 microns (40-60K grit) and the red one is Ferrous Oxide
0.1 micron...im scared to even imagine what grit that is...altho that formula sounds like rust to me.
Question is, can I just get by with green after the Naniwa 10K? What additional benefits does the red
confer?
c. These compounds come in crayon and paste....is one better than the other....I'll be applying to
a rough sided leather on a bench strop, not a cotton strop.
d. I initially wanted to get a hanging cotton strop for the green and red compound but settled for the bench strop.
I see these compounds more as part of honing rather than stropping...so I figured a really fat surface to move the
blade on would be helpful for a newbie like me so I don't compromise the bevel. Makes sense?
Am I on the right track here or way off base? I'll add more questions, observations as we go along.
I can't wait to make this project successful, if it works, I just want a Brian Brown semi-custom
and that will be it.
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