I suspect that you will notice a difference. For a demo of what the oxidation does try this. Strop a razor as you normally would before shaving, then set it aside for a week to simulate it being shipped from the hone person, start your shave without stropping and shave a bit, then strop the blade and continue the shave.
My Straight Razor Checklist
- Thread starter Tester28
- Start date
I will. I would normally oil it before setting it aside though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Thread starter
- #83
Thanks for the great tips so far...I will cool it with the linen.
Probably do 5 linen after a shave and maybe 10-15 on leather
before putting the razor away.
And then do a set of 40 on leather before shaving next morning.
Just trying to figure out where the horse suede handheld strop would fit in.
I kind of like the way it feels....not as harsh as linen....but not as smooth
as leather...kind of like a medium grit hone.
Probably do 5 linen after a shave and maybe 10-15 on leather
before putting the razor away.
And then do a set of 40 on leather before shaving next morning.
Just trying to figure out where the horse suede handheld strop would fit in.
I kind of like the way it feels....not as harsh as linen....but not as smooth
as leather...kind of like a medium grit hone.
A lot of times it isn’t an issue, but if you have a bigger collection and store blades in the conditions that aren’t quite perfect it can become an issue.
In a nice climate somehow protected from bathroom humidity it’s usually never an issue.
I oil my blades after each use and put them in a box in a bathroom cabinet drawer. There is a desiccant in the box.
I am still going to try stropping beforehand to see whether it effects my shave.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chan Eil Whiskers
Fumbling about.
These ^ are a good deal when you buy twelve at a time from Jarrod.
I never oil my blades, but I always put them in ugly silicon sleeves (above) or the similar seven razor rust inhibiting (preventing so far) roll up things sold by Superior Shave.
No rust so far. I use both systems. I think Jarrod is more sold on the ugly sleeves but he lives way close to the ocean and has OCD much worse than mine.
My razors are stored outside of but very very close to the
When using either of these systems do not oil your blades unless you oil with Ballistol or something similar which lets water escape (according to Jarrod).
Happy shaves,
Jim
Still one of the best lookin straights I’ve seen. If you don’t like it I’ll buy it from you! Haha
I don’t think I know way more than you at all! I definitely have some different knowledge than a lot of people on here because I sort of had a mentor instead of joining forums for about 6 yrs, and I’ve moved a few times so I’ve run into just about any environmental or hard water issue a shaver could have.
I definitely couldn’t tell you about the convex stones, Barber hones, slates, or advise anyone on the best soaps, brushes, or strops! There are a lot of rabbit holes to research in this hobby and I’ve just gone very deep into a few specific ones. 6 years straight whenever I had a bad shave I questioned the edge/metallurgy/honing/stropping and never once thought I should buy a pre shave or upgrade my soap... now since joining the forum ive tried both and its a whole new world!
- Thread starter
- #89
Second shave today...and it went much better.
Stropping definitely helps a lot. I also flattened the angle and it worked.
Got an exceptionally smooth shave on the face, the kind I usually get with a high
gapped wolfman razor.
For some reason, I cant see the razor when going from the ear southwards, so I did get a nice
nick on top of the ear.
Im still playing around with lather consistency...today I went with canned foam and it was pretty good.
I cant wait to take this razor through a higher progression of honing, all the way up to 0.1 micron
compound on a balsa strop.
I've been thinking about honing this thing without tape. It's worth noting that Ulrik sets the initial edge with
one layer of cloth tape, so my choice is to either mimic that from now on....or just leave the tape off...but Im wondering if that will alter the angle at which the bevel contacts the hone.
Stropping definitely helps a lot. I also flattened the angle and it worked.
Got an exceptionally smooth shave on the face, the kind I usually get with a high
gapped wolfman razor.
For some reason, I cant see the razor when going from the ear southwards, so I did get a nice
nick on top of the ear.
Im still playing around with lather consistency...today I went with canned foam and it was pretty good.
I cant wait to take this razor through a higher progression of honing, all the way up to 0.1 micron
compound on a balsa strop.
I've been thinking about honing this thing without tape. It's worth noting that Ulrik sets the initial edge with
one layer of cloth tape, so my choice is to either mimic that from now on....or just leave the tape off...but Im wondering if that will alter the angle at which the bevel contacts the hone.
It will slightly alter the angle. But if you are planning on honing anyway then it doesn't matter. Your new tapeless bevel angle will better match your balsa finishers and leather strop, which is good.
If you are planning on going all the way down to sub micron paste you will not even see the scratch marks on the spine from honing. It will be polished mirror smooth to the point it doesn't even look honed. Sometimes when finishing on a lower grit you can still see some haze on a shiny blade. no big deal but I think thats one of the reasons people feel the need to protect their precious spine with tape, when they really should be worried about whats best for the other end, down at the cutting edge.
I'm not a fan of tape. There are exceptions where it it beneficial. I'm aware that many people use it though, and you will be fine if you go that route. You could measure your blade angle and see if you are on the very low end where tape might help. I'd guess you are fine and likely even better off without it.
For me tape is just an added unnecessary step that complicates the process while also having a few small downsides and few if any upsides except for certain situations.
The razor will continue to shave, whichever way you choose
If you are planning on going all the way down to sub micron paste you will not even see the scratch marks on the spine from honing. It will be polished mirror smooth to the point it doesn't even look honed. Sometimes when finishing on a lower grit you can still see some haze on a shiny blade. no big deal but I think thats one of the reasons people feel the need to protect their precious spine with tape, when they really should be worried about whats best for the other end, down at the cutting edge.
I'm not a fan of tape. There are exceptions where it it beneficial. I'm aware that many people use it though, and you will be fine if you go that route. You could measure your blade angle and see if you are on the very low end where tape might help. I'd guess you are fine and likely even better off without it.
For me tape is just an added unnecessary step that complicates the process while also having a few small downsides and few if any upsides except for certain situations.
The razor will continue to shave, whichever way you choose
Chan Eil Whiskers
Fumbling about.
It will slightly alter the angle. But if you are planning on honing anyway then it doesn't matter. Your new tapeless bevel angle will better match your balsa finishers and leather strop, which is good.
If you are planning on going all the way down to sub micron paste you will not even see the scratch marks on the spine from honing. It will be polished mirror smooth to the point it doesn't even look honed. Sometimes when finishing on a lower grit you can still see some haze on a shiny blade. no big deal but I think thats one of the reasons people feel the need to protect their precious spine with tape, when they really should be worried about whats best for the other end, down at the cutting edge.
I'm not a fan of tape. There are exceptions where it it beneficial. I'm aware that many people use it though, and you will be fine if you go that route. You could measure your blade angle and see if you are on the very low end where tape might help. I'd guess you are fine and likely even better off without it.
For me tape is just an added unnecessary step that complicates the process while also having a few small downsides and few if any upsides except for certain situations.
The razor will continue to shave, whichever way you choose
The very model of a gentlemanly post on the subject. Beside that, I agree with you entirely.
Happy shaves,
Jim
- Thread starter
- #92
Aaaaah...so I had another lovely shave today with zero irritation or nicks on my mug. Before comencing,
I stropped on linen 5 laps, before going 50 on leather.
However, in trying to avoid getting hit by a train, I got hit by a car.
I dont know what caused it but I made a sharp movement with my free hand while rinsing lather
off the blade under the tap... and got a wicked slice on my middle finger. Luckily it was at the very end of the shave.
I stropped on linen 5 laps, before going 50 on leather.
However, in trying to avoid getting hit by a train, I got hit by a car.
I dont know what caused it but I made a sharp movement with my free hand while rinsing lather
off the blade under the tap... and got a wicked slice on my middle finger. Luckily it was at the very end of the shave.
I’ve given myself a few usually honing, but the amazing thing is since it’s literally a scalpel quality clean slice... I find I can slap it back together with some pressure and then leave a standard bandaid on for 1-3 days and it’s completely closed and healed.
- Thread starter
- #94
Ive been putting on a bandaid with some ointment to hold it together....I keep the bandaid for about 12 hours and then leave it off so the wound can breathe.
I wonder if wetting the area (shower etc) would result in it taking longer to heal.
Similar threads
- Article
