My Search For Smooth

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Generally I don't do any stretching beyond a few face contortions. My guess is I should do more, but I've been saying that to myself for years so there is that.

On the other hand, my shaves are pretty good.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Rosseforp]

human hair is all more or less the same, if we was to compare for example, say, my hair and the hair of a completely different species of animal.

Same basic building blocks, but not arraigned in the same ratios. Every species hair is a result of what it eats.

And if a blade is capable of cutting the hardest of human hair effectively it should be able to cope with the softest of human hair in at least as competent a manner.

Consider how the hair is severed. The hardest hair might be brittle and snap cleanly, with enough force and speed the blade would require strength over sharp. A coating that provides toughness would increase blade life.
The softest hair needs to be sliced, requiring less force and a keener edge. Softer hair might also be more prone to stretching like gum, requiring increased slickness in the form of coatings.

If Teflon doesn't work, try chrome.

Should, that is a good word. YMMV

 

[TinyT]

The Escape From Scraped-Face City! Congratulations!

 

[TinyT]

On the other hand, my shaves are pretty good.

Exactly. Then again, that brings us back to the questionable 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' wisdom.

 

[TinyT]

Same basic building blocks, but not arraigned in the same ratios. Every species hair is a result of what it eats.

Nice! I didn't know that. Prior to this recent bit of blade exploration my shaves have been getting better and better. My diet is has also been ever improving. Mostly vegetarian, I no longer eat many (if any) processed foods and drink hardly any alcohol. I've been practically tea total of late, although it's not been a conscious decision, it just sort of happened.

Consider how the hair is severed. The hardest hair might be brittle and snap cleanly, with enough force and speed the blade would require strength over sharp. A coating that provides toughness would increase blade life.
The softest hair needs to be sliced, requiring less force and a keener edge. Softer hair might also be more prone to stretching like gum, requiring increased slickness in the form of coatings.

You must've read my mind Doug, I was thinking almost the exact same thing yesterday. I've concluded that all razor blades are very sharp, almost all as sharp as each other. The specific blade to match the particularities of hair make up, skin type and technique being the difference between a shave and a good shave.

 

[Rosseforp]

The specific blade to match the particularities of hair make up, skin type and technique being the difference between a shave and a good shave.

Correct, Wes. Technique plays just as important a role as the blade and razor. With all things being equal, the speed at which the blade travels and depth of cut determine the difference.

As my technique has refined over the past one and half years of DE shaving, certain of my razors still stand above the rest, but others have unexpectedly shown brilliance I never thought they could achieve.

My Slim on #4 has been taking all of my vintage razors on and winning handily so far. I have a good feeling my Z3 Flare Tip will give it a good run for the money, then I have a host of 3 piece solid bar razors to bring to the table before letting my OC's take charge.

More experiments to follow.

 

[TinyT]

More experiments to follow.

Looking forward to them.

 

[JoWolf]

Correct, Wes. Technique plays just as important a role as the blade and razor. With all things being equal, the speed at which the blade travels and depth of cut determine the difference.

As my technique has refined over the past one and half years of DE shaving, certain of my razors still stand above the rest, but others have unexpectedly shown brilliance I never thought they could achieve.

My Slim on #4 has been taking all of my vintage razors on and winning handily so far. I have a good feeling my Z3 Flare Tip will give it a good run for the money, then I have a host of 3 piece solid bar razors to bring to the table before letting my OC's take charge.

More experiments to follow.

Technique trumps everything. A razor that best suits Your Shave Style - A pleasure & luxury. Above all the sharpest blade you can comfortably use. I get consistent comfortable BBS shaves. This is the formula my shave journey morphed into.
Starting into Straights is where I am getting a better understanding of sharp. The sharpness of the edge against your skin is critical. Dynamics of an edge slicing through whiskers are the same. Acuteness of edge aside, sharpness and keenness are the Grail. The medium dull and not sharp blades that I have shaved with in straights are all disastrous. Sharp blades are the safest and most comfortable. It is easier to lighten up with a sharp blade shaving than to force a slower cutting duller blade into your whiskers and skin. Sharp above all. My new mantra. Sharing my limited experience gentleman and still drawing blood on every SR shave.

 

[TinyT]

Sharp blades are the safest and most comfortable.

That's what I've always believed to be true and still do. I think the difference between most DE blades is coatings rather than sharpness per se. Straights are a whole new ball game.

 

[TinyT]

I read this earlier today as I was researching the benefits of cold water shaving:

This method has several benefits, not just for you, but for your gear as well. Take your razor. Nice, shiny, sturdy piece of metal. Feels nice when it’s warm. So does the blade. But get this. The hot water used to rinse the blade causes the tiny metal molecules in the blade to expand, making the razor dull after only five shaves. Cold water, on the other hand, causes the molecules to contract, giving the blade a better edge and longer life. Just by using cold water, my current Wilkinson Sword blade is on it’s eighth shave.

And from a different source:

More friendly on razor blades. Continuous exposure to hot water makes the metal in your razor blade turn blunt more easily. Men who use cold water say that their blades last longer than when they use hot water.

Seems there's something in this.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I read this earlier today as I was researching the benefits of cold water shaving:

This method has several benefits, not just for you, but for your gear as well. Take your razor. Nice, shiny, sturdy piece of metal. Feels nice when it’s warm. So does the blade. But get this. The hot water used to rinse the blade causes the tiny metal molecules in the blade to expand, making the razor dull after only five shaves. Cold water, on the other hand, causes the molecules to contract, giving the blade a better edge and longer life. Just by using cold water, my current Wilkinson Sword blade is on it’s eighth shave.

And from a different source:

More friendly on razor blades. Continuous exposure to hot water makes the metal in your razor blade turn blunt more easily. Men who use cold water say that their blades last longer than when they use hot water.

Seems there's something in this.

Pretty sure I learned about cold steel in Boy Scouts. Certainly somewhere along the line I know I was taught in an academic course that cold steel is the way to go, and they were talking about razors in particular. Maybe in a chemistry course, or physics; somewhere for sure.

For a long time I was a 100% cold water shaver. Now I use hot water. Frankly I can't appreciate any difference in terms of blade sharpness or performance or longevity which probably just means I'm an insensitive clod.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[TinyT]

Frankly I can't appreciate any difference in terms of blade sharpness or performance or longevity which probably just means I'm an insensitive clod.

I think the margins are all quite fine. The Perma-Sharp I took to over seventy shaves was used with cold water, hot water, tepid water, 2 pass shaves, 3 pass shaves, WTG, XTG, ATG, shallow, neutral, steep and everything in between. And after every shave if I recall correctly (which is doubtful) at least for the last fifty of those shaves I rinsed the blade and razor under very hot tap water when I'd finished shaving. Nothing seemed to affect it too much. Maybe if I'd used just cold water the shaves would've been a little bit better and lasted even longer. I'll find out if I stick to cold water shaving but I struggle with sticking sometimes.

 

[Esox]

Seems there's something in this.

Everything contracts when colder, your skin does too. Riddle me this though lol: Which would make your skin softer, more supple and forgiving, hot or cold water?

I'm sure there are many ways to extend the life of even a $0.50 DE blade but shave comfort beats it by miles.

 

[TinyT]

Everything contracts when colder, your skin does too. Riddle me this though lol: Which would make your skin softer, more supple and forgiving, hot or cold water?

I'm sure there are many ways to extend the life of even a $0.50 DE blade but shave comfort beats it by miles.

I think the theory behind cold water shaving is that hot water makes the skin and whiskers softer but that this isn't necessarily a good thing. Softer skin tends be slightly puffy, hindering the blades ability to cut the whisker; and a soft whisker can be more difficult to cut, bending under the pressure of the blades edge. Whereas, with cold water, the skin being contracted helps expose the whisker and a harder whisker can be cut more cleanly. At least that's the theory.

As far as I know, traditional barbers have always used and still use hot water and hot towels. The cold water theory comes from Benjamin Franklin when hot water was difficult to come by and expensive. I think there are merits to both arguments. I still think a softer hair is easier to cut and puffy skin when hot would depend on the individuals face. But cold water is better for skin in general, IMHO.

 

[Esox]

I think the theory behind cold water shaving is that hot water makes the skin and whiskers softer but that this isn't necessarily a good thing. Softer skin tends be slightly puffy, hindering the blades ability to cut the whisker; and a soft whisker can be more difficult to cut, bending under the pressure of the blades edge. Whereas, with cold water, the skin being contracted helps expose the whisker and a harder whisker can be cut more cleanly. At least that's the theory.

As far as I know, traditional barbers have always used and still use hot water and hot towels. The cold water theory comes from Benjamin Franklin when hot water was difficult to come by and expensive. I think there are merits to both arguments. I still think a softer hair is easier to cut and puffy skin when hot would depend on the individuals face. But cold water is better for skin in general, IMHO.

'Better' for skin because it washes away less natural oils but those have already been removed by the soap. Cold water tightens the pores. Hot water opens the pores. I guess it would come down to the comfort and closeness of the shave. I know I can have a far more comfortable shave with warm water and the hotter the better. I also know I can have a closer shave with hot water. Everything expands with heat and moisture enhances that expansion. Assuming that as accurate, a hair would be shaved further down the shaft and when cool and dry would retract even further. Cold water might not, and in my case at least, does not help in that equation. Not to mention I'm far more prone to razor burn with cold water.

Hot towels work but I cant be bothered using them. Even body temp warm water is good enough for me but hotter is better and for a longer time too.

 

[TinyT]

'Better' for skin because it washes away less natural oils

Not that so much but hot water can cause inflammation and drying of the skin.

I guess it would come down to the comfort and closeness of the shave.

Always the deciding factor.

 

[JoWolf]

That's what I've always believed to be true and still do. I think the difference between most DE blades is coatings rather than sharpness per se. Straights are a whole new ball game.

I think you may find a few of these reviews and comparisons interesting Wes. My results on testing lined up pretty close to the write ups. Refined Shave - https://www.refinedshave.com/

 

[JoWolf]

I read this earlier today as I was researching the benefits of cold water shaving:

This method has several benefits, not just for you, but for your gear as well. Take your razor. Nice, shiny, sturdy piece of metal. Feels nice when it’s warm. So does the blade. But get this. The hot water used to rinse the blade causes the tiny metal molecules in the blade to expand, making the razor dull after only five shaves. Cold water, on the other hand, causes the molecules to contract, giving the blade a better edge and longer life. Just by using cold water, my current Wilkinson Sword blade is on it’s eighth shave.

And from a different source:

More friendly on razor blades. Continuous exposure to hot water makes the metal in your razor blade turn blunt more easily. Men who use cold water say that their blades last longer than when they use hot water.

Seems there's something in this.

Cold water everything was a major improvement to irritation and comfort for my shaves. Single use Feathers assures me of the exact performance and BBS repeatable comfort for every shave. My soap is locked in. Very familiar with my seven brushes. No surprises in my DE shaves. SR shaves different story.

 

[JoWolf]

I think the theory behind cold water shaving is that hot water makes the skin and whiskers softer but that this isn't necessarily a good thing. Softer skin tends be slightly puffy, hindering the blades ability to cut the whisker; and a soft whisker can be more difficult to cut, bending under the pressure of the blades edge. Whereas, with cold water, the skin being contracted helps expose the whisker and a harder whisker can be cut more cleanly. At least that's the theory.

As far as I know, traditional barbers have always used and still use hot water and hot towels. The cold water theory comes from Benjamin Franklin when hot water was difficult to come by and expensive. I think there are merits to both arguments. I still think a softer hair is easier to cut and puffy skin when hot would depend on the individuals face. But cold water is better for skin in general, IMHO.

My skin irritation was reduced considerably using cold water. Each individuals skin and whiskers are different. One size does not fit all. I loved and still have my shave scuttle and the feel of hot water and brushes in my shave. My skin irritation told me it doesn’t like it. Now even washing my face with tepid water is uncomfortable compared to cold. A good part of it is conditioning as well. My preference because of comfort Above All is now cold. Doesn’t work for everybody.

 

[TinyT]

I think you may find a few of these reviews and comparisons interesting Wes. My results on testing lined up pretty close to the write ups. Refined Shave - https://www.refinedshave.com/

Thanks John. I'll have a look in a minute or two.