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My lathering technique with Italian soft soaps

My face has a little brush burn from testing this method out today with different brushes and soaps!!
It seemed to work every time with badger and boar brushes. Hard vegetal soaps and tallow soaps all worked really well. I sometimes struggle with how much water to add to my badger brushes. This method seems to have really helped. I love a rich, dense creamy lather and this method produces that for me. Thanks @Marco
 
I do almost exactly the same thing as Marco with my hard soaps. It works a treat. Loading with the damp tips of the vertical brush is very effective. Then turn the brush over and watch the lather explode! Note that we are blessed with very soft water in Melbourne.

I do two slight variations. I made the switch to bowl lathering recently which I find easier on my face more convenient for holding enough lather for multiple passes. After the initial lather I whipe all lather into the bowl and go back to the puck to load up again. Tons of lather for three passes with lather to spare is the result. I keep it warm by floating the bowl in the sink while shaving. The method is essentially the same in the bowl as on the face.
 
I do almost exactly the same thing as Marco with my hard soaps. It works a treat. Loading with the damp tips of the vertical brush is very effective. Then turn the brush over and watch the lather explode! Note that we are blessed with very soft water in Melbourne.

I do two slight variations. I made the switch to bowl lathering recently which I find easier on my face more convenient for holding enough lather for multiple passes. After the initial lather I whipe all lather into the bowl and go back to the puck to load up again. Tons of lather for three passes with lather to spare is the result. I keep it warm by floating the bowl in the sink while shaving. The method is essentially the same in the bowl as on the face.
Ok good to know. I'm going to give that a shot next. I have always face lathered but have been experimenting with bowl lathering lately. I like the immediacy of face lathering but want o try the bowl to see if I can get an overall thicker and better lather. It just seems to take more time in a bowl.
 
Ok good to know. I'm going to give that a shot next. I have always face lathered but have been experimenting with bowl lathering lately. I like the immediacy of face lathering but want o try the bowl to see if I can get an overall thicker and better lather. It just seems to take more time in a bowl.

I started face lathering at first and always got a good lather. Bowl lathering takes a little bit longer because after you apply the lather after building it and there is a bowl to rinse out. It really doesn’t take much longer.

For me bowl lathering has the following benefits. Better post shave feel because there is less stress on the skin from the brush. Better shave as there is more lather available to be generous on subsequent passes. Better feel during shave because lather temperature can be maintained. I float the lather bowl in the sink to keep it warm.

I never thought that I would like bowl lathering but, for me, there are several benefits and I am starting to move that way.

I have not tried a shaving specific lather bowl or scuttle. The best bowls I have found are as close to a half sphere as possible. Diameter 90-120mm. Depth no greater than 60mm. Metal bowls seem to do better at heating the lather between passes. I currently on the lookout for an ideal bowl.

If ridges make a difference as some people say this may be it.


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I have not tried a shaving specific lather bowl or scuttle. The best bowls I have found are as close to a half sphere as possible. Diameter 90-120mm. Depth no greater than 60mm. Metal bowls seem to do better at heating the lather between passes. I currently on the lookout for an ideal bowl.
Try the Turkish copper bowl from the bay that is mentioned on the forum. I got it for Christmas and it's fantastic. Dimensions are good, nice grip with the handle, and the dimples speed up the lathering like mad. Load the brush (Marco's method), few seconds in the bowl and woop, a full bowl of thick cushioning lather!
I tried a few simple, smooth metal ones. They worked well but lacked relief for easy lathering and a handle for better grip. Most of the special lathering bowls are way overpriced in my opinion.
For the price of the Turkish copper, I would not bother to scavenge the shops for a household bowl to re-purpose.
 
Marco's Method is basically you use a lot of product and a lot of water. It does work more reliable on more soaps than any other method I have tried.
When I first tried using shave sticks I was having a hard time, then I tried applying a lot of soap to my face and a very wet brush and everything just came together then.
 
Try the Turkish copper bowl from the bay that is mentioned on the forum. I got it for Christmas and it's fantastic. Dimensions are good, nice grip with the handle, and the dimples speed up the lathering like mad. Load the brush (Marco's method), few seconds in the bowl and woop, a full bowl of thick cushioning lather!
I tried a few simple, smooth metal ones. They worked well but lacked relief for easy lathering and a handle for better grip. Most of the special lathering bowls are way overpriced in my opinion.
For the price of the Turkish copper, I would not bother to scavenge the shops for a household bowl to re-purpose.

Thanks for the tip. There seem to be a lot of good reviews for this bowl on the forum. I found one on eBay and placed an order. Good value, materials and design. If it works as well as people say it will be a steal.
 
I started face lathering at first and always got a good lather. Bowl lathering takes a little bit longer because after you apply the lather after building it and there is a bowl to rinse out. It really doesn’t take much longer.

For me bowl lathering has the following benefits. Better post shave feel because there is less stress on the skin from the brush. Better shave as there is more lather available to be generous on subsequent passes. Better feel during shave because lather temperature can be maintained. I float the lather bowl in the sink to keep it warm.

I never thought that I would like bowl lathering but, for me, there are several benefits and I am starting to move that way.

I have not tried a shaving specific lather bowl or scuttle. The best bowls I have found are as close to a half sphere as possible. Diameter 90-120mm. Depth no greater than 60mm. Metal bowls seem to do better at heating the lather between passes. I currently on the lookout for an ideal bowl.

If ridges make a difference as some people say this may be it.


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I’ve been bowl lathering more lately and am still working on technique. Initially it was taking me longer to work up a lather as good as that I have been getting with face lathering. But when I read Marco’s method again and used a bit more product and more water then it got easier to get a big bowl of nice lather.

I agree that bowl lathering can avoid face irritation since you’re not building the initial lather on your face. That’s a plus but I didn’t find that was an issue for me. I’d like to be able to do both so I can have the option. In the end it’s all enjoyable.


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Lately I've seen that some B&B members are having issues regarding how to create a good lather with Italian soft soaps. And I have personally received several PMs regarding this subject, with many asking me what kind of lathering technique I actually use. Here is a simple tutorial for new wet shavers or for those who just are unable to get satisfying results with soft soaps.

1. Italian soft soaps like brushes with soft tips and great backbone. You can use a quality boar or badger brush of your choice with the above specs. I prefer boars, as in the old Italian barbershop tradition.

2. Run your brush under hot water (or simply soak it) for at least 30 seconds.

3. Turn your brush upside-down WITHOUT shaking it. Allow only the gravity water to fall down and move your brush carefully, since it has to be kept full of water.

4. Start making swirls on the surface of the soap. You have to proceed slowly, without pressure on the brush. Remember that it's very wet.

5. Heavily load your brush for about 45/60 seconds making around 100/120 swirls. Please keep in mind that the loading time and number of swirls also depend on how big your brush is and how much water it can retain.

6. Move the brush onto your face and face lather. Again, be careful, you'll have a LOT of lather to handle.

7. While face lathering add, slowly and progressively, a few drops of water per time to your brush. Or, alternatively, lightly wet the tips of the brush. I personally prefer to add drops of water to the brush because I have a better control of the soap/water ratio.

8. You bring the lather to the right consistency.

*** The main concept to always keep in mind is simple: a lot of water + a lot of swirls + a lot of soap = a lot of great, thick, slick and effective lather. ***

I learned this technique from an old Italian Master Barber with over 40 years of experience and I've been using it with great results for almost 16 years.

P.S. This lathering technique works very well even with hard, triple milled soaps. Exactly as described above, with the sole exception that I soften the surface of hard soaps with a dozen drops of water before starting to make swirls.

I kind of stumbled into a similar method with WMS and a Cremo horsehair brush based on general recommendations to use more water and more product. It does use a bit more soap, but it's worth it.
 
I gave the Marco method a try today and wow did it work. I just bought a Shavemac 26 mm silvertip 2-band badger brush (54 mm loft, bulb shape), and I couldn't build a decent lather with it while using Saponificio Varesino Mirto di Sardegna beta 4.3 soap. The lather I was generating before was thin and shaving with it was painful. My lather after using the Marco method for the first time (I can tweak it a bit by adding slightly more water) came close to what Cris produces from "Another Cut Above" on YouTube.

It's kind of counter-intuitive starting with so much water, but just keep moving the brush on the soap and in short order you have exceptional lather (enough for 4-5 passes in my case). What a blissful experience... I'm looking forward to hydrating the lather more on my next shave.
 
This method is spectacular! I cannot believe how luxurious and slick the lather is! I have been enjoying some P160 daily for a few weeks now and I am always impressed with the results.
 
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