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- #21
I just loaded a roll of Tri-X into my Nikon FG. I recently sold an FA.
My Fuji X100s is the only digital camera I use now. The only time I use my D7000 is for studio / product type shots, and occasionally for macro.
My Latest Roll
- Thread starter simon ess
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I just loaded a roll of Tri-X into my Nikon FG. I recently sold an FA.
My Fuji X100s is the only digital camera I use now. The only time I use my D7000 is for studio / product type shots, and occasionally for macro.
I know it's cliche, but I'd like to see what you did with a Brownie!
Good composition, good detail, some great subjects. I had an FA but didn't like the metering, so sold it. Had an N2000 and Canon digital, sold those too and don't spend the time or money anymore, but good to see someone enjoy scenic pics. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice images. There is a big difference between the punch of the Foma pan and the tri-x. Does the foma expand and contract well? What are you souping in?
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- #25
Thanks
To be honest, I'm not entirely sure what this means. I don't concern myself too much with technical stuff. I just take pictures.
I can say that I have used very little Fomapan so am not yet used to it. I have some ISO400 to try next. Tri-X is far and away my favourite film but the price is starting to get a bit much - hence the experiment with Foma.
I use Kodak HC-110 for everything.
I was asking about + and - development. Living where I do, + development is necessary. As you said Kodak is getting pretty Spendy and I have recently dusted off my film cameras. I am looking for a less expensive film that will expand.
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- #27
Oh I see.
The Fomapan 100 in 35mm is not good for + dev. I tried it.
Fuji Acros is very good, but that's getting expensive too.
The Fomapan 100 in 35mm is not good for + dev. I tried it.
Fuji Acros is very good, but that's getting expensive too.
Film in general is getting very expensive. It is a bummer. I just don't get the same satisfaction out of digital.
As much of my misspent youth as i could afford was spent in our basement darkroom messing around with B&W film processing/printing. My first part time job, 4 hours per week at $2/hr, i saved just about everything i made until i had enough for a new Canon Ftb SLR, $269, then came lenses and another body, meters.... Still have the Ftb, lenses and my dad gave me his A1, paraphernalia, and all the darkroom equipment.
For digital, never really got into it, bought a Canon point and shoot for my wife i'd use that, never got over the loss of film, funk... until, since i've never had a phone either, Christmas two years ago i bought an ipod touch for the camera function. With that toy and a few apps and banging up against it's limitations i've had as much fun taking pictures, messing with this small piece of plastic as i ever had in my years of shooting film stuff, a total blast, liberating, it's great to be invisible just another person out there pulling out a phone, fun!
That said, this thread has the wheels spinning, need a proper a scanner to revisit thousands of negatives and slides, there's film in the crisper, need some soup....
dave
Great stuff. Thank you for posting. I only shoot film save for snapshots to record something. Still work in the darkroom when I can get there. In love with Kodak D-76 for pretty much everything.
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- #31
Thank you for the kind, supportive comments everyone. It's great to hear of others using film too.
My last roll was a bit of a disaster. I used an orange filter on my Olympus Trip. It meters through the filter so need to compensate.
Not sure what happened, but it seems that the filter rather confused the meter. I only got a couple I considered OK.
img129 by Simon, on Flickr
img133 by Simon, on Flickr
My last roll was a bit of a disaster. I used an orange filter on my Olympus Trip. It meters through the filter so need to compensate.
Not sure what happened, but it seems that the filter rather confused the meter. I only got a couple I considered OK.
img129 by Simon, on Flickr
img133 by Simon, on FlickrOrange filters generally need two stops of compensation. (you may be fine with 1.5) If it is 2, you will need to open the aperture two stops or slow down the shutter by two. Filters generally are rated as having a "filter factor" so a filter factor of 2 means you open up one stop.
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- #33
Thanks, I'm aware of this, but surely this only applies if the meter is external to the filter.
I use similar filters on my TTL Nikons with no issue at all.
Also, there are some frames on this roll that are fine.
Perhaps I'm missing something.
Two things:
First, Yes I think that you are missing something.
Second: The fact that you're missing something is not that bad because I missed two things (a) it was a TTL meter and (b) Why the metering would get messed up with an orange filter on a TTL meter on some of the frames and not others. So I'm ahead of you in terms of missing things.
The only thing that I can think of is that orange filters will reduce light in the yellow end of the spectrum and accentuate the blue. Could it be that some of the shots were taken in bright sun light and others while the sky was overcast? (in other words, at different times or under different light conditions) Were some taken while the light was "cool" ie. say at 2,700K while others were taken later in the day with "hot" afternoon light which would be say about 6,500K?
One of your pictures has very directional shadows while the other doesn't seem to. I am guessing they were taken at different times of the day. Were some of the shots that you don't like taken at the same time as the picture with the wheel that has the more even light?
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- #35
I think you may well be right.
What is interesting is that I have never had any such problems with Nikons, in any light, ever.
It may be you have to be aware of the issues you mention when using an old selenium meter such as on the Trip.
Could be we're onto something. I have a memory that Roger Hicks made a series of recommendations as to what compensation to use with various meters. It's a vague recollection only, but I believe he wrote that there was one type of spot meter came with instructions as to exposure compensation depending on the light, but that particular one was the only one that came with such instructions.
I wonder whether a selenium meter requires exposure compensation in a particular type of light when an orange filter is used. Perhaps as the meter has aged it can't read accurately unless it "sees" more light in the yellow end of the spectrum. I'm assuming the shots were underexposed and if they're not usable, I would guess perhaps by two stops which coincidentally is about what the exposure compensation would be with a hand-held meter.
Here's a quote from a web-chat on a photography forum. I would never have thought to use this method to get the right filter factor for the time of day and the type of light meter.
The effect of filters varies with the time of day / weather due to differing levels of the colours that make up 'white' light. Therefore, all filter factors are given as a guide only.
The best way to make accurate compensation for the effect of a filter is to meter the scene without the filter and then meter the scene with the filter. The resulting difference is then the filter factor you need to apply for that particular filter at that time of the particular day you are using the filter.
By the way, calculating the filter factor in this way when metering a shadow area that you wish to retain detail in can, at high altitudes particularly, help a great deal when using either a minus Blue filter or a very deep Red filter because of the unusually high levels of blue light present in the shadows and the related effect of the filter. When I used to do landscapes, i experienced situations where the correct filter factor was more than one stop in variance to the stated 'official' filter factor
Hope this helps,
David
www.dsallen.de
D.S. Allen, fotograf.
www.dsallen.de
Neu / New: DS Allen | Photography
The effect of filters varies with the time of day / weather due to differing levels of the colours that make up 'white' light. Therefore, all filter factors are given as a guide only.
The best way to make accurate compensation for the effect of a filter is to meter the scene without the filter and then meter the scene with the filter. The resulting difference is then the filter factor you need to apply for that particular filter at that time of the particular day you are using the filter.
By the way, calculating the filter factor in this way when metering a shadow area that you wish to retain detail in can, at high altitudes particularly, help a great deal when using either a minus Blue filter or a very deep Red filter because of the unusually high levels of blue light present in the shadows and the related effect of the filter. When I used to do landscapes, i experienced situations where the correct filter factor was more than one stop in variance to the stated 'official' filter factor
Hope this helps,
David
www.dsallen.de
D.S. Allen, fotograf.
www.dsallen.de
Neu / New: DS Allen | Photography
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- #38
Some really great shots here, very nice!
The Olympus Trip is an interesting camera. The meter is a selenium cell which may not have the same spectral sensitivity as film. That being said I do have a yellow filter for mine but I can't remember if I have used it or not. The other issue with the Trip is that the aperture blades can become sticky after a while and need cleaning. I had to do this with mine when I bought it. There are instructions online.
Hmmm, now I see that the thread is a year old. Oh well!
Hmmm, now I see that the thread is a year old. Oh well!
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