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My journey into natural stones begins.

OK, so I got my JNAT from Alex a few days ago, and today I finally had some time to start messing with it.
I also recently received another ebay rescue, a 6/8 Wester Bros. in bone. It needs to be unpinned, cleaned, and re-pinned, but I figured it would be good to learn with while I try to figure out this stone.

I started by dragging the already-dull edge lightly across a glass. Then, I went to work setting the bevel on the 1200g side of my DMT plate. Once I got fresh steel all the way up both faces of the bevel, I checked it with my 40x loupe, and noticed a very tiny chip, and a short area near the point that hadn't been cleaned up.
So I switched sides to the 600g, and used a sharpie to mark both sides of the bevel, then went to work.
After maybe forty total laps, I checked again with the loupe. All of the sharpie ink was gone, as was the little chip.
I re-inked the edge, then went back to the 1200g side. After twenty or so laps per side, all of the ink was again gone.

Time to start with the stone, Okudo Gousa Kamisori Toishi.
After watching a few of Alex's videos on the "axe method," I did my best to replicate this on my stone. I used the matched nagura to raise a slurry, and went to it.
I didn't have any hair for a hanging-hair test (I shave my head as well,) so I planned to use the "tree-topping" hair test on my forearm.

I did a couple of sets using the slurry, and then tried it on the forearm. It popped a few, but not as many as I was hoping.
I almost decided to go ahead and shave then, but I decided to try something else first. I rinsed the stone clean, then wet it down good and did a set on just water. Then I stropped eight passes on fabric, twenty on the suede back of my strop, then fifty on the smooth leather side.
It seemed to pop a few hairs more than before, but not a whole lot.

Oh well, gotta start somewhere, so on to the real test. Did my usual beard prep, then lathered up some Tabac. I shaved just the right side above the jaw line, two passes. Very smooth! Very close shave and no feedback at all from the alum block.

Being (surprisingly) pleased with this, I next took my Ralf Aust 6/8 to the stone, following the same steps, minus the 600g.
Took it and shaved the other cheek with it, with the same feel and results. Now, I'm not about to believe that I've already got this stone "figured out," but I think I'm well on my way. Time (and other razors) will tell the story for sure. If nothing else, I seem to have found a good starting point.

Thanks to Alex for a great stone, and for his patience in working with me and my newbie questions. He's great to do business with, if you ever get the chance. Thanks also to Alfredo for referring me to Alex, and to introducing me to JNAT edges to begin with. :thumbup1:

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That's awesome news!! It's nice when everything seems to "click" right off the bat, isn't it?? JNAT's are a lot of fun, enjoy that beautiful stone!! :thumbup1:

And yes, Alex is great to deal with. I bought my nakayama tomae asagi from him and I'm sure there will be more!!
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
+1 for Alex. The hardest part is deciding which stone to pick!

Japanese naturals are fun.

Cheers, Steve
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
B&W, Japanese finishers cut fast compared to other naturals, and most of Alex's stones I have or have tested cut really fast. Two full sets with slurry may be more than you think. Try one set with slurry the some finishing stokes with a) diluted slurry, and/or b) clear water.

Cheers, Steve
 
After maybe forty total laps, I checked again with the loupe. All of the sharpie ink was gone, as was the little chip.

I just want to clarify the purpose of the magic marker test.

The goal of the test is to remove all of the marker with one stroke, maybe two, per side depending on the grit level you're using. On a DMT 1200 you should be removing all the marker with ONE single pass.

The purpose of the test is to diagnose how the bevel of the razor is contacting the hone. If you lay the razor flat and do a straight stroke or x stroke with no pressure applied or no roll AND all the marker is gone, your razor is most likely completely flat; no warp, no smile, no frown. Knowing this is essential to your stroke. For the rest of the honing session you don't need to perform any fancy strokes to ensure the entire bevel is being worked by the stone you are using.

If you lay the razor flat and you notice that after your first pass there is marker remaining at the center of the blade but came off at the heel and toe, you most likely have a frown.

If your razor has marker removed in the middle but remains at the heel and toe, your razor most likely has a smile.

If your razor has marker removed everywhere but the toe, your toe is most likely honed out. Vice versa if there is marker remaining at the heel, your heel has excessive wear.

If your bevel is thin in the middle and fat at the heel and toe on one side AND on the other side the bevel is fat in the middle and thin at the heel and toe, your razor most likely has some warpage.

All of these can be used for diagnosis and effectively give you the clues required to perform the proper stroke to ensure that your honing session is successful.

On occasion, one side of the razor might require a different stroke than the other side.

I hope that helps :)
 
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B&W, Japanese finishers cut fast compared to other naturals, and most of Alex's stones I have or have tested cut really fast. Two full sets with slurry may be more than you think. Try one set with slurry the some finishing stokes with a) diluted slurry, and/or b) clear water.

Cheers, Steve

Yes, this is true but the slurry from jnats is 'friable' meaning it will break down with usage. It's beneficial to work the slurry to it's maximum potential. That is to break it down until it won't break down any more. This is essentially taking the grit from size 10 down to size 1. If you only do 21 strokes per side, you might not be unlocking the full potential of the slurry you are using. Of course, this depends on how fast this particular slurry breaks down.
 
Thanks guys.

I'll keep that in mind, Steve. I think the thing will be developing a "feel" for how it's working. This being my first natural stone, I don't have anything for a reference.
 
I just want to clarify the purpose of the magic marker test.

The goal of the test is to remove all of the marker with one stroke, maybe two, per side depending on the grit level you're using. On a DMT 1200 you should be removing all the marker with ONE single pass.

The purpose of the test is to diagnose how the bevel of the razor is contacting the hone. If you lay the razor flat and do a straight stroke or x stroke with no pressure applied or no roll AND all the marker is gone, your razor is most likely completely flat; no warp, no smile, no frown. Knowing this is essential to your stroke. For the rest of the honing session you don't need to perform any fancy strokes to ensure the entire bevel is being worked by the stone you are using.

If you lay the razor flat and you notice that after your first pass there is marker remaining at the center of the blade but came off at the heel and toe, you most likely have a frown.

If your razor has marker removed in the middle but remains at the heel and toe, your razor most likely has a smile.

If your razor has marker removed everywhere but the toe, your toe is most likely honed out. Vice versa if there is marker remaining at the heel, your heel has excessive wear.

If your bevel is thin in the middle and fat at the heel and toe on one side AND on the other side the bevel is fat in the middle and thin at the heel and toe, your razor most likely has some warpage.

All of these can be used for diagnosis and effectively give you the clues required to perform the proper stroke to ensure that your honing session is successful.

On occasion, one side of the razor might require a different stroke than the other side.

I hope that helps :)

Thanks, Brooksie. I'll keep it in mind for future hone sessions.
 
I should mention that wherever the marker remains requires the attention. SO, if you're toe has marker left, somewhere in the stroke for maybe 1/4 of the length of the stroke, just put the weight of your finger at that point of the bevel but on the spine of the blade. That alone should be enough pressure to get that part of the bevel to contact the stone.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
Of course, but the different stones I have respond to slurry a bit differently. With some it's manna, others kind of indifferent. But your point is well taken.

The OP is facing what we all do whenever we get a new Jnat, and we don't know any more about a new stone than we did our first. But what we do have with experience is maybe a better idea of how to "test" for the characteristics in some way. So what do you think about starting a thread to answer that question: When you get a new Jnat, how do you determine the best ways (water/slurry, number of strokes, type of strokes, etc). See if there's any consensus!

Cheers, Steve

Yes, this is true but the slurry from jnats is 'friable' meaning it will break down with usage. It's beneficial to work the slurry to it's maximum potential. That is to break it down until it won't break down any more. This is essentially taking the grit from size 10 down to size 1. If you only do 21 strokes per side, you might not be unlocking the full potential of the slurry you are using. Of course, this depends on how fast this particular slurry breaks down.
 
Interesting stone - I think your color balance is way off, mine seems ok. But the pic makes the stone look very green.
Or is it actually that green? That would be very unique.

Regardless - an Okudo Gousa is quite a score - congrats!
 
Interesting stone - I think your color balance is way off, mine seems ok. But the pic makes the stone look very green.
Or is it actually that green? That would be very unique.

Regardless - an Okudo Gousa is quite a score - congrats!

No, it's not you, it's me. :laugh:
It took the picture in crummy light and it turned out real yellowish, then tried to edit it back to something like normal. I need to get around to making a light box.
Thanks, Gamma.
 
Sounds like it went well. Congrats. The slower stones are the pains when first starting out. good luck with it and keep us informed of the progress.
 
No, it's not you, it's me. :laugh:
It took the picture in crummy light and it turned out real yellowish, then tried to edit it back to something like normal. I need to get around to making a light box.
Thanks, Gamma.

Ahhh - I had never seen a Gousa look like yours did/does in that pic - was kind of hoping it really was that color though!

Very cool stone though - may it serve you well!
 
Ahhh - I had never seen a Gousa look like yours did/does in that pic - was kind of hoping it really was that color though!

Very cool stone though - may it serve you well!

Thanks Gamma, I'm sure it will!
 
Great start. Enough good can't be said about Alex IME. You should see even better edges as you figure this one out more.

+1, to Gamma's comment. The color may be a little off from the photo. Share some more eye candy just in case, lol.
 
Thanks, that satisfies it. Gorgeous stone. I have a gousa I got from Alex a while back and it's one of my favorite stones. Enjoy it!
 
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