My Grande Journey

[Esox]

Protection from scratches plus it lowers friction. 3xx stainless is hard to rust (just need a can-do attitude), but easy to scratch.

True. Scratches are something I never think about. I have a polishing station iin my garage so its a few seconds to remove scratches from anything anyway.

I don’t see them advertised anymore, but there was the ATT G1 and G2. Maybe send a letter saying you’re part of BOSC and human progress is contingent on them some gold plated G1 and G2 razors for you?

I have looked at other GEM style razors, specifically the Blackland Sabre. The problem is, they use the same blades I'm using now. My theory is, the GEM PTFE blades arent made specifically for shaving with. I see them more as an industrial/lab use type of item, but I could be wrong. I believe this is why I find them a bit harsh the first three shaves and why some recommend stopping them before use.

The AC format blades however, I believe are made for shaving. I have a strong suspicion that the Schick Proline will be a more refined blade. Again, I could be wrong...

Here‘s hoping whichever ATT single-edged top cap and SE1 and SE2 plates you choose provide even greater follicle-obliterating joy than your GEM-platform blades provide.

I just had a shave with my MMOC. I moved the blade from my Bullet Tip after 4 or 5 shaves, I dont remember. Using my Silvertip badger as a comparison for Jim, @Chan Eil Whiskers vs my lil Maggard. I used a superlather of Nivea and Wickham Shangri La and a spectacular shave was the result. I honestly cant see it getting any better that it is now, but I have said that before lol.

Oh, my Yaqi Silvertip is Roberto Duran. The lil Maggard is Sugar Ray.

If Above The Tie’s open comb is as soothingly smooth as the one on the FaTip Grande, the SE2 in gold would be the one to have. And, yes, being able to follow one’s own advice would be so great.

The SE1 and SE2 plates are very different animals. I borrowed Jim's pics of his.

SE1 left. SE2 right.



The SE1 looks to me to be mild mannered but effective. The SE2 however, looks like a much more serious tool. I do like efficiency, but thats a lotta blade.

 

[thombrogan]

True. Scratches are something I never think about. I have a polishing station iin my garage so its a few seconds to remove scratches from anything anyway.

If that keeps you from wanting to wear a Proline down to a nub in a stainless steel V2 Hawk that’s just teeming with tungsten, great!

I have looked at other GEM style razors, specifically the Blackland Sabre. The problem is, they use the same blades I'm using now. My theory is, the GEM PTFE blades arent made specifically for shaving with. I see them more as an industrial/lab use type of item, but I could be wrong. I believe this is why I find them a bit harsh the first three shaves and why some recommend stopping them before use.

That sounds like something smoothing the backbevel down with wet-dry over glass could do much cheaper than buying an AC format razor and blades. I promise I can be wrong.

The AC format blades however, I believe are made for shaving. I have a strong suspicion that the Schick Proline will be a more refined blade. Again, I could be wrong...

Could well be right. In the shavette thingies, every variety has a fan. In the SEs, Schick Proline and Feather Super seem the talk of the town. I’m very ignorant as to which blade is best for whom, especially for SE razors which I’m slightly less terrified of than shavettes.

I just had a shave with my MMOC. I moved the blade from my Bullet Tip after 4 or 5 shaves, I dont remember. Using my Silvertip badger as a comparison for Jim, @Chan Eil Whiskers vs my lil Maggard. I used a superlather of Nivea and Wickham Shangri La and a spectacular shave was the result. I honestly cant see it getting any better that it is now, but I have said that before lol.

Mazel tov! I’m still at the “if the alum doesn’t find all the nerve ending, I win!” stage, so reading your triumphs is inspirational.

The SE1 looks to me to be mild mannered but effective. The SE2 however, looks like a much more serious tool. I do like efficiency, but thats a lotta blade.

That‘s a lot more blade exposure. But you’ve got the Wickham’s 1912 and support of the SASA, so it all comes down to which comb is easier to boop or developing more sensitivity to enjoy the increased efficiency.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I'm right about the SE1 and the SE2 being the ones with the AC blade, right?

The SE2 is a bit much. Maybe more than a bit. I was able to make friends with it but only shaving at a very steep angle. At a shallow angle forget it. It will eat you alive. It's not just the comb that's different. I would not be happy with it as a daily driver and can't imagine many being.

The SE2 is way different from the SE1.

The SE1 is easy to use much like the V1 SS General is easy to use. So is the SS DLC Hawk. Mind you I always use a steep angle or the design angle.

But, I tried the SE2 at a shallow angle plenty of times before I figured it out.

Just my two cents and opinion.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

The only AC blades I've used enough to know about are the guarded blades which are fine for their purpose (training wheels) and the Prolines.



I'm 99% sure the AC blades were developed specifically for the barber razors, particularly the Feathers.

I've used the one on the left, the SS, a good many times with the Proline. The wine in the middle I own but have never used at all (it still scares me?). The DX on the right is more like a real straight than the others in that it lacks the lip; the DX is also a lot more expensive.

 

[thombrogan]

The wine-colored kamisori thingy looks both cutest and most lethal.

@Esox, I wasn’t being facetious about polishing behind the edge. If you can see the grind marks above the edge, you’ll feel them even more. Might explain why the Feather DE blades only feel okay to you with soaps like Wickhams and feel harsh with other lathers.

 

[rabidus]

The SE2 is a bit much.

The guarded blades(Kai or Feather) tame the SE2 nicely, to the point where it's a hair less efficient than the SE1 with a Proline but pretty close. The Prolines are the better deal by far though.

 

[TinyT]

Oh, my Yaqi Silvertip is Roberto Duran. The lil Maggard is Sugar Ray.

I watched this just the other night. Duran is relentless.

Got Yaqi badgers on my radar.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Got Yaqi badgers on my radar.

I've not used a Yaqi silvertip but my two Yaqi two bands are quite good.

They're not as good as my Zenith Manchurian but, for the money, they're awfully close.

I have a Zenith silvertip in transit and am really looking forward to trying it in April. I've read the Zenith silvertips (at least one gentleman says this about his) have even more backbone than the Zenith Manchurians. Now I don't know about that. I have two Zenith Manchurians. While both are great brushes, the copper handled brush is a different animal from the other, and has tons and tons of backbone (but not too much).




These thumbnails can be enlarged for a better view.

I vouch for the Yaqi two bands. Very satisfactory badgers.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[TinyT]

I vouch for the Yaqi two bands. Very satisfactory badgers.

Thanks Jim, I value your opinion on all things, as you know.

 

[Esox]

If that keeps you from wanting to wear a Proline down to a nub in a stainless steel V2 Hawk that’s just teeming with tungsten, great!

This is the edge of a new GEM carbon blade. I left the pictures at their full resolution.

This is the same edge after a 45 minute workout on my whetstone.

This is what I meant by "unrefined". At a shallow angle, which is inherent to GEM razors, its really no surprise why they're a bit harsh.

Scratches on a razor dont bother me. Scratches on a blade do.

Could well be right. In the shavette thingies, every variety has a fan. In the SEs, Schick Proline and Feather Super seem the talk of the town. I’m very ignorant as to which blade is best for whom, especially for SE razors which I’m slightly less terrified of than shavettes.

Prolines are what seem to be used most often so thats where I'd start. If they're even equal to a GEM PTFE thats fine, but I'm betting they're smoother out of the box.

Mazel tov! I’m still at the “if the alum doesn’t find all the nerve ending, I win!” stage, so reading your triumphs is inspirational.

I've never used alum. I did try 70% Iso once just to satisfy myself that my technique was where it should be. I had no sting, just the cool tingle so I guess I do ok lol.

That‘s a lot more blade exposure. But you’ve got the Wickham’s 1912 and support of the SASA, so it all comes down to which comb is easier to boop or developing more sensitivity to enjoy the increased efficiency.

SASA is doing it wrong!

I tend to shave with a very shallow angle, but its a lot more comfortable using the more rigid SE blades steep than it is the flimsy DE blades.

 

[Esox]

Might explain why the Feather DE blades only feel okay to you with soaps like Wickhams and feel harsh with other lathers.

I didnt worry about it enough to check. I just took them as harsh until my first use of PdP 63.

I've just had my most satisfying shave yet. If it gets better than this, I dont know how.

Brit clone. Fresh Feather.

Pre de Provence 63.

Maggard synthetic.

I cant remember when I shaved last. Well over 50 hours ago.

N-S. S-N. ATG. One clean up.

I shook out my brush and started loading. This soap is different from others I've used. I usually go by my brush getting harder to move over the puck as it loads up with soap. That didnt happen with this soap.

I loaded about as long as I do Stirling soaps, which isnt long, 15-30 seconds max. Into my bowl to build the lather and it seemed very thin and I almost went back to the puck but I didnt. I just let it build, and build and build. It never got thick. I didnt add any more water. It never got heavy like Tabac or even Stirling can.

Lather up and the scent hit me literally in the face. Its a wonderful light yet deep and smoky scent. Even lathering my face it seemed thin, but it was glistening like no other soap I've used. In my bowl under the LED lights in my bathroom the lather was almost pearlescent as was the wet puck after I rinsed it.

This razor I quite like. Its always given me a very nice, close and comfortable shave, but it takes 3 full passes and clean ups.

This blade I havent really liked, until tonight.

Start N-S. Smooth, so smooth, and the slickness was surprising. No issues and a nice, close, supremely comfortable first pass.

S-N more of the same, with buffing ATG under and up my chin, both cheeks and sides of my mouth. This slickness was very telling while I was buffing.

ATG and more buffing, but not a lot needed really. More of the same. Wonderful scent, incredible slickness.

One light clean up at a downwards 45° over my swirls and done.

I have that "I dont feel like I've shaved" feeling. My skin has no warmth or redness. Its cool and supple and feels like I've had a good rub of CC balm, but I didnt even rinse my face. Just a quick wipe with a damp hand towel.

I dont know whether it was this razor that took the harshness out of these blades for me or the soap, but I felt none at all.

This soap is slicker than Tabac with a thin lather. Its slicker than my Stirlings. Its even slicker than my CC creams. One thing it is not, is thick and heavy. If you like a soap with loads of cushion, this isnt a soap that offers that.

If you find a thinner, extremely slick lather offers enough protection, as I do, this is damn good stuff.

I guess theres a reason its been a favorite of so many for so long. I wont be without my 63, ever.

On a side note, as I was shaving and reveling in the scent, it occurred to me that it smells similar to Proraso Red. When I finished shaving I popped the top on my Red and breathed both deeply a couple times. The Proraso Red smells nice, but its a heavy, thick, somewhat sharp scent. The PdP 63 I'm thinking of as also a Sandalwood type scent, but far lighter, deeper, smokier and much more refined. Its like the snooty French cousin to Proraso Red.

An hour later and I can still smell it. Life is good.

Since then, my test of a soap is with Feather blades. If I dont feel any harshness I know its a good match for my skin.

 

[Esox]

Duran is relentless.

Yeah, he was tough.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Thanks Jim, I value your opinion on all things, as you know.

I have swampland for sale. Very cheap. You should buy it.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[TinyT]

I have swampland for sale. Very cheap. You should buy it.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Maybe not that one, lol.

 

[Esox]

I have swampland for sale. Very cheap. You should buy it.

I almost bought 80 acres of swampland years ago. I wish I knew you then! lol.

Since the friend that owned it died, Wayne Duncan, a first generation Canadian Scot, his son has cleared it and filled in the pond. Bush where I put the green and the blue was the pond and the creek from the pond.

The pond was managed by Ducks Unlimited Canada. The duck and deer hunting there was fantastic. I could have had all 88 acres for $1000 an acre and Wayne said he'd lease it back from me for the first 5 years and maybe longer. He was a cattle farmer and raised Limousin for beef, all grass fed the way they should be. The deal fell through when the bottom fell out of an order for tree cutting.

Wayne died about 5 years later. Great guy. I remember after deer hunting there the first week of December one year, my brother in law and I drove up to his place about 15 miles east of there, 90 minutes from me, and gave him and his wife a full loin from one of the deer. He had tears in his eyes because no one he had ever let hunt there before had done that, he said. That was his last Christmas.

His son owns the property directly north of what I was going to buy so at least its still in the family.

 

[thombrogan]

This is the edge of a new GEM carbon blade. I left the pictures at their full resolution.

< picture snipperized / >

This is the same edge after a 45 minute workout on my whetstone.

< Mike already posted it. My quoting this photos is odd/ >

This is what I meant by "unrefined". At a shallow angle, which is inherent to GEM razors, its really no surprise why they're a bit harsh.

The smoother appearance above and below the factory suggest it’s hollow ground with something coarse and most likely buffed as a final sharpening/deburring step.

What were you using for the regrind? The appearance it left is very smooth.

Scratches on a razor dont bother me. Scratches on a blade do.

I was thinking more along the lines of feel of the razor blade against your face versus blade esthetics.

Prolines are what seem to be used most often so thats where I'd start. If they're even equal to a GEM PTFE thats fine, but I'm betting they're smoother out of the box.

I have no GEM experience. Prolines are smooth, but my experiences are limited to one Kai Pink that may have been good and one Proline I’ve used about a dozen or so times. Got 5 Prolines from Tryablade.com in case they weren’t “da bomb diggety yo” versus getting the bestest deal and then despisifying them. N=1 is super happy so far.

I've never used alum. I did try 70% Iso once just to satisfy myself that my technique was where it should be. I had no sting, just the cool tingle so I guess I do ok lol.

Not aspiring to splash isopropyl on my face, but glad it wasn’t a call for you to change your technique. Nice!

SASA is doing it wrong!

And so can you! If the first time you shaved steep with a Derby Extra increased the duration of your BBS time, going steep with a Proline in an ATT SE2 should keep your face shiny for a week.

Also, after pushing the SE2 on you with my only real life SE experience being the RazoRock BlackHawk V2 (aluminum like you read about), I read a post from an ATT SE2 user mentioning chatter. Chatter?!

So the good news is the SE1 has less surface area when gold platin.

I tend to shave with a very shallow angle, but its a lot more comfortable using the more rigid SE blades steep than it is the flimsy DE blades.

I felt like a sinner shaving steep with the SE, but I was getting all the discomfort starting shallow ATG. I binned a Kai Pink after three uses. Shave one was like Potter’s first day at Hogwarts. Shaves two and three were progressively worse and my analogy was too dark to type.

Ordered 5 Prolines and switched to shaving shallow with the Grande until they showed up. And then even after they showed because I hadn’t/haven’t got the hang of it. Switched back to the SE with its enhanced Schick goodness, placed its cap against my neck and felt it stop immediately. Went steep and finished the shave all ATG.

Going to get there and have been stealing gems from you, Rudy, Jim, Anthony, and Cal where I can find them.

 

[rabidus]

I binned a Kai Pink

Kai Pink or any Feather AC blade are not half as good as a Schick Proline for me.

 

[thombrogan]

Kai Pink or any Feather AC blade are not half as good as a Schick Proline for me.

I've lost count of how many face/neck excursions have occurred on this, my first Proline, and it still lets me outperform my skill level.

Would you please answer some questions related to ATT's AC platform and them blades in your disfavor?

Is the SE2 less rigid than the SE1? The increased exposure means it's mathematically so, but it may be negligible in real life whisker pwning. When scouring this forum for the feel of its open comb, Old Hippy mentioned chatter once. Chatter isn't anything I want to have in an AC format SE, especially not one that costs a
gajillion smackeroonis, and might not be something Mike; a disciple in the divinity of rigidity; would want to replace his MMOC. He seems set on a gold plated SE1, but may also share this morbid curiosity.

The other question; all me this time; is what didn't you enjoy about the Kai Pinks and the several versions of the Feather AC?

 

[rabidus]

Is the SE2 less rigid than the SE1?

Nope, thick blade locked down tight, no chatter for me.

The SE2 has more blade exposure than the MMOC, requires more focus.

The other question; all me this time; is what didn't you enjoy about the Kai Pinks and the several versions of the Feather AC?

For me, they are about as sharp as used Prolines that I'm done with.

There was a lot of hype about the AC platform when I tried them years ago, many said the Feather and Kai blades were the sharpest blades of any platform. That was the case for me. Prolines weren't popular then. One member heard my cries and gave me a source for Prolines from Japan, they weren't available anywhere else at the time and that's all she wrote. It's the only blade/platform I use now.

The GEM SS PTFE blade is more efficient then Feather or Kai and are pretty equal to Prolines.

Having said all that, the SE2 with a Kai or Feather guarded blade is not a bad combination, I prefer Kai over Feather. It's pretty close to the comfort and efficiency of the SE1/Proline, just a hair less efficient. Proline blades are much cheaper than Kai, which makes SE1/Proline the better choice.

Feather and Kai blades work for many but they're not that efficient on my beard.

Only shaving 1-3 times a week(not daily), the other blades may work better, it seems it is easier to BBS my face the longer I wait.

 

[thombrogan]

Nope, thick blade locked down tight, no chatter for me.

The SE2 has more blade exposure than the MMOC, requires more focus.

Thanks. So slap a thick, luxurious plating on the SE2 and the higher concentration needed makes it the perfect razor for Esox.

For me, they are about as sharp as used Prolines that I'm done with.

Given you put over two dozen shaves on a Proline, that's the nail in the coffin for the SE platform.

Since I don't shave like you yet, it also means I'd likely get joy from them though you don't and Mike probably wouldn't.

Thank you!

One member heard my cries and gave me a source for Prolines from Japan, they weren't available anywhere else at the time and that's all she wrote. It's the only blade/platform I use now.

Gotta love it when a plan comes together.

The GEM SS PTFE blade is more efficient then Feather or Kai and are pretty equal to Prolines.

That info gives Esox a consolation prize for inertia and me more options should AC format fun lose its novelty for me. Thanks again!

Proline blades are much cheaper than Kai, which makes SE1/Proline the better choice.

Using less efficient, more expensive blades to make a razor less efficient certainly dulls it "wow" factor.

Feather and Kai blades work for many but they're not that efficient on my beard.

Since I use my SE steep, they might work for me. If my Proline ever dulls, I'm going to try another Kai. Better to know before finding the best eBay or Rakuten deal. Also Feather Pro and Feather Pro Super are affordable on Amazon these days.

Only shaving 1-3 times a week(not daily), the other blades may work better, it seems it is easier to BBS my face the longer I wait.

It was the hunt for daily BBS that moved me from cartridge to safety razors. If I waited every third day, the supermarket rebranded Dorco 6 and hand-lathered Irish Spring would do it all fine.

Instead, I'm here reading what you wrote about 'hearing' the stubble getting cut answer trying non-irritating ways of doing the same. I've felt the 'hearing' and love the long-lasting shave it provides, but can't yet do it without looking like I've scuffed my face.