My first working vintage pen! - 1935 Parker Duofold Junior

[Northstonehill]

I have used only fountainpens in my 25+ years office career, never ballpens or other. Love my pens especially with a stub nib which really brings out that classic style - and somehow magically makes my ugly writing look cool...

Up until today this was my roster: Mont Blanc Meisterstück (sole daily driver for the last 14 years), then a year ago or so I added a Kaweco AL Sport and 2 TWSBI’s, all 1.1 stubs. Especially the Kaweco turned out to be a wonderful easy office pocket pen (for jeans front pockets), love writing with it, even though I still have not really gotten used to the visual design.

But recently I got interested in trying vintages. So for my first cheap try I found a local private buy online of a beautiful green Esterbrook. However that thing never really worked, doesn’t feel right in the lever mechanism or something.

So - enter my second try today: A fully serviced wonderful looking Parker Duofold Junior button filler, according to seller a 1935 Canadian production aimed at the European market. I chose it firstly because of its smallish size (which I have come to appreciate with the Kaweco) and secondly because it has an extra fine nib. My beloved stubs simply tend to be too broad for my A5 Moleskine notbook.

Here it is, I think I’ll like it, writes nicely - though I had to google to really understand how to fill it.

This vintage nib noob welcomes any tips and tricks to having a vintage as a daily driver. It really does not feel as sturdy as the Kaweco.

 

[BigFoot]

I love my Duofolds. Congrats on going down the vintage rabbit hole.

 

[tankerjohn]

Awesome pen! I love that flattop Parker design. It just looks...right.

I‘ve got a Waterman Commando and a handful of Esties I use fairly regularly. For me, the biggest adjustment was how wet they write. I chalk it up to those old school ebonite feeds. Plus, I recall reading that inks back in the day ran drier than most modern inks. Even with dry inks, they creep a lot if I’m not careful to keep the pens nib up.

Also, leverfillers are kind of a PITA to clean (I assume button is similar, though probably easier to work the mechanism). So I don’t changes inks often and keep it topped off, since there’s also no ink window.

Last tip is to be deliberate about your ink selection. Many people will say to only use “safe” inks such as Waterman or Pelikan 4001 in vintage pens. Alkaline inks (most Japanese brands) and boutique ink (Noodlers, etc) have been reported to damage ink sacs and/or vintage celluloid. Heavy dose of YMMV here. For everyone that claims X brand ink destroyed their pen, there’s someone else who claims they’ve been using the same ink for years without issue. So I’m not saying don’t use Noodlers or Pilot Iro or the latest super sheeny glitter ink. But if you do, I recommend you do it knowingly, be vigilant for issues, and don’t let it sit in the pen unused for a long time.

 

[Northstonehill]

Thanks fellas - great guidance, John! Very much appreciated!

Today’s mail call actually this evening made me take the Esterbrook apart and as expected the sac came out in small pieces. No I am hooked and will order a new sac to install. Loving this!

Instinctively I like the button filler system more.

I feel an AD emerging

 

[r0ckrat]

Luckily the Esties are easy to clean by removing the nib assembly and flushing with a syringe... Enjoy replacing the sac on it!

 

[Northstonehill]

Thanks!

 

[strop]

The Esties tend to be the entrance to the rabbit hole for a lot of us. Getting them apart is sometimes the hardest part of it. You nee little shellac to seal the sac to the section. Readily available at many online places that cater to vintage pen repair. Also look down inside and make sure the J-bar or lever bar is intact. That is what compresses the sac when you move the lever.

 

[tankerjohn]

@strop don't forget the talc!
@r0ckrat good call! Unscrewing the nib unit definitely makes it easier. I still have to work the lever to get the sac flushed all the way.

One hack I use on the Commando, that I probably wouldn't recommend anyone else do but it works for me, is to pop the section off the barrel (relatively easy on this particular pen - don't know if that's normal for Watermans) and squeeze the sac with my fingers to draw in water and flush it out. MUCH quicker than working the lever. Then I reapply talc and reassemble. However, I have a sneaking suspicion that's probably not great for longevity of the pen, so in truth I try to minimize cleaning and just keep it loaded with R&K Salix (a lovely ink, btw).

 

[Northstonehill]

Thanks again, John, Mark - I need to go shopping

 

[Northstonehill]

I am having slight trouble getting the button filler loading technique down... I found an online Parker description saying: Immerse the pen, press the button down and wait at least 10 seconds for the sac to fill. Repeat process if needed.

That seemed to get ink up and I wrote a bit (half an A4 page) with it without no problems. But this morning it is dry again and seems to need filling. Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks again!

 

[nemo]

Beautiful pen, I'll bet that's a pretty soft nib too! I've got a few Duofolds and the UK nib tops all the rest.

I am having slight trouble getting the button filler loading technique down... I found an online Parker description saying: Immerse the pen, press the button down and wait at least 10 seconds for the sac to fill. Repeat process if needed.

That seemed to get ink up and I wrote a bit (half an A4 page) with it without no problems. But this morning it is dry again and seems to need filling. Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks again!

After you've filled, see how many drops come out as you gently expel the load back in to the ink bottle. You should get quite a few drops, like 4-7 at least.

Are you getting the nib immersed completely? You should have it down so that the section is partially submerged.

 

[Northstonehill]

Thanks Doug. What do you mean when you say have the nic “section” partially submerged? I take it that all of the nib itself (”the gold part”) need to be fully submerged? - Or?

 

[tankerjohn]

Thanks Doug. What do you mean when you say have the nic “section” partially submerged? I take it that all of the nib itself (”the gold part”) need to be fully submerged? - Or?

The section is the part of the pen where the nib and feed are lodged. Its where most people put their fingers while writing. Most fountain pens (and I'm guessing Parkers too) fill from the base of the feed, where it meets the section. So, if the section isn't partially submerged in the ink, the fill hole might not be fully covered by ink and allows air into the sac, which breaks the vaccum sucking up the ink.

 

[jar_]

Danger, Will Robinson! Warning Warning; expenses approaching.

Flat tops are addictive.

 

[r0ckrat]

@r0ckrat good call! Unscrewing the nib unit definitely makes it easier. I still have to work the lever to get the sac flushed all the way.

I flush with water using a syringe a few times, then use a q-tip to wipe out the sac (very carefully and gently.)

 

[Northstonehill]

Update on the Duofold: Turned out the sac had become dislodged so that’s why I could not load it! Seller replaced it with apologies and now it writes perfectly, I’m loving this neat small EF writer.

The success made me venture into changing the sac on my Estie. Another thread just posted on the result of this effort

Still, I feel myself slipping into the vintage rabbit hole. Am eyeing those gorgeous Pelikan 600’s....

 

[jar_]

Update on the Duofold: Turned out the sac had become dislodged so that’s why I could not load it! Seller replaced it with apologies and now it writes perfectly, I’m loving this neat small EF writer.

The success made me venture into changing the sac on my Estie. Another thread just posted on the result of this effort

Still, I feel myself slipping into the vintage rabbit hole. Am eyeing those gorgeous Pelikan 600’s....

Old style or new style Pelikan 600s? The original 600 was the same size as the 200 and 400 but with fancier furniture and an 18K nib. All of my modern larger size 600s have gone on to Forever Homes but my original 600 is still here and a favorite.

The three on the right are 600, 400, 200:

 

[Northstonehill]

Man!!!!

 

[thefenlander]

Old style or new style Pelikan 600s? The original 600 was the same size as the 200 and 400 but with fancier furniture and an 18K nib. All of my modern larger size 600s have gone on to Forever Homes but my original 600 is still here and a favorite.

The three on the right are 600, 400, 200:

Can I ask what you preferred about the older model 600? Presumably not the size, because you've got some of the larger Pelikan models there as well. I'm told the new M600 nib is rather firm, is that it?

 

[jar_]

Can I ask what you preferred about the older model 600? Presumably not the size, because you've got some of the larger Pelikan models there as well. I'm told the new M600 nib is rather firm, is that it?

Actually all of the larger Pelikans have also gone on to forever homes. I still have some larger pens but I seemed to carry and use smaller pens far more often. The original 600, 400, 200 size I find near perfect. Similarly in Montblancs I use my 234½s and my vintage 144s and 146s while all the modern 149s and 146s too have gone to forever homes. In my Danitrios I like the Takumi size and down and in Sailor the standard size 1911 over the large size.

In older more experienced pens I find I tend to use my Parker Junior Duofolds and Sheaffer 5-30s more often than the Parker Senior and Sheaffer Full size.