My first straight shave

[Justso]

Well here it goes, I will try to be as explicit and detailed as I can be.

After much trepidation, I finally decided to put the blade to the flesh and give this thing a go-round, for better or worse. I must say, all things being considered, it went better than I thought. I didn't cut myself once, but the shave wasn't problem free, including me having to cut it short.

Here's my prep. Shavemac XL Silvertip, Pre-shave oil, Taylor's Mr Taylor Cream, good face prep with hot water, hotpot action a' brewin'..things were going well. Lathered up with a lather that looked great. Time for the money, blade to face.

This blade is a 5/8 and was honed/stropped by Rik prior to my use. I set it on my face, rolled it up and started with one small pass on my left cheek with the skin stretched with the other hand. I first noticed how awkward it is to hold my skin with my other hand while trying to shave with my non-dominant hand. That was bizarre. I felt like I couldn't get the proper angle on the blade and that I was constantly checking & re-checking the angle. Anyway, the first pressure I pulled down on and it felt like the hairs were being tugged at before they were cut. Now I don't know if this was because I was going slow or if my beard was extra tough or what, but it did feel like the hair was being tugged at. So I ever so gingerly proceeded to shave my left cheek, with short, slow & deliberate passes. With every pass I was just hoping I didn't see blood behind the pass as cream turned to skin. Anyway, I get to my chin area and managed to get a decent shave with the blade, getting the skin pretty smooth. Then I did the other cheek, again feeling like the hairs were being tugged at.

Then, this is where I got too nervous to continue. I re-lathered and started to go against the grain and man, it felt like my blade was being stopped by my hair. I was afraid to push the blade hard against the hair in fears of seeing blood shoot all over my mirror. I tried a couple of short passes and it wasn't working. So that's when I decided to whip out the Vision and finish her' up.

The down strokes I did get in seemed to be pretty smooth and there was absolutely NO irritation. But when I started trying to get against the grain, the whole show stopped. It really felt like I was trying to pull my face with the razor when it hit the hair.

So what am I doing wrong? Blade too steep? Too shallow? Should I have pushed it harder? Is my face too soft for a straight? I'm not chalking this up as a loss by any matter of means. Just a learning experience and when my strop comes in, I'll reload and try again.

Funny enough, when I finished up with my Vision, I cut the side of my chin. HAHA..so much for fearing the mighty straight.

Ok str8-meisters, i'm listening.

-Justin

 

[Laz in Tampa]

First off, I have to say that you MUST let the shaving cream/soap sit on your face for at least four minutes. Re-lather to keep the lather moist. Use water as hot as you can stand. I personally shave right after showering, and while I am in the shower, I have an immersion heater heating a mug of water for me.

Second- what hand to use? Some people use both hands, I use only my right. Change the grip on the straight to get different areas of your face. You don't "have" to hold a straight in the traditional pinky on the monkey tail grip.

Third, the angle of attack. Lay the razor flat on your face, and lift the spine about 1-2 spine widths from your skin.

May I suggest keeping it simple the first few shaves? Use your dominant hand only, skip the pre-shave oil and use hot water and lather, and then shave. Once you get your technique down and are comfortable shaving your whole face, then you can jazz up your routine.

 

[Crawdad]

Justin,

I'm encouraged by your brave attempt--something I have yet to try. I'll learn with you from the experts.

Bob

 

[crackstar]

Laz, first thing tomorrow evening, I'm going to check out straightrazorplace. I might have a straight razor by the weekend! Wish me luck!

Jeff

 

[rtaylor61]

Justin,

Tell us about our razor. New, old, honed yourself, honed by a honemeister at SRP?

Randy

 

[Justso]

Randy,

It was honed by Rik, I got it from him. It's a 5/8, looks to be Carbon Steel, and it says "St. L. Grinding Co. Germany" on the side. Other than that, I don't know much about it. Wish I could give you more details.

-Justin

 

[uofi1963]

Justin,

I sounds to me that your razor was not truly sharp. A sharp blade doesn't tug.

I'd suggest that you get over to SRP and get Lynn or David to hone and strop your razor. For me, it took a private lesson from Lynn, the meisterhoner, to make the breakthrough.

Joel K, the oldest Joel

 

[Scotto]

Justin,

Your experience completely mirrors my own. There is a big difference between the feel of a str8 and a heavy DE. You have to apply a fair amount of pressure relative to DE shaving since the weight behind the blade is quite different. Even with the sharpest blade you will feel a bit of tugging relative to a DE.

I could never go against the grain with my beard and a str8, even after reducing the stubble with previous passes. My beard is too thick, and the blade gets hung up, even with a Lynn-honed razor. You'll have to experiment with a few across-grain passes instead, I think.

Good luck, and stick with it. As I mentioned to you, it is a different experience that takes a long time to master.

 

[rtaylor61]

Justin,

I re-read your post and realized I missed the blade information. No question about Rik's technique and availability. Seeing Scotto post reminds me that depending on your beard type, a larger razor may be what you need. I used a 7/8 last night for the first time, and without any prior experience with this razor, achieved my best straight razor shave to date. Start with your cheeks, and be sure to employ good skin stretching technique. The flatter and more taut the surface, the easier for the razor to glide. Make sure that you are also working with a good lather base.

Don't give up, and don't rush the process. I've been at it for a few months now, and I still have a lot to learn!

Randy

 

[Rik]

Greetings Justin,

You may need to strop the razor in between passes. This is what I need to do especially with 5/8 razors and even with 7/8+ razors, including those that have been honed by Lynn and other honemeisters.

I shave with every razor that gets sent out - it's the only true test (the hanging hair test is only an indicator to move away from the 15K hone and on to the pasted strops). I won't send it unless it can effortlessly go through the tree trunks I have for stubble.

I wholly agree that for tougher beard types the larger blades are much more forgiving. That said I currently use razors from 3/8 up to 8/8 and receive an equally excellent shave. But this was only the case after my form was well established. In my case, the lighter the razor, the more pressure needed.

In the future I'll need to ask what type of beard the future owner has.

 

[Laz in Tampa]

Laz, first thing tomorrow evening, I'm going to check out straightrazorplace. I might have a straight razor by the weekend! Wish me luck!

Jeff

I used to be a member there, but me and the owner no longer see eye to eye on some things. Long story that I won't go into here, so I recommend http://groups.yahoo.com/group/StraightRazors/ instead. Just MHO.

 

[crackstar]

Laz, Saturday, my friend who's a barber is taking me to buy a straight, and he's going to teach me how to shave with it. Man, I can't wait!

Jeff

 

[Scotto]

Jeff, that sort of one-on-one training should serve you well. We'll expect a detailed posting on the purchase and shave!

 

[Joe Lerch]

Just a learning experience and when my strop comes in, I'll reload and try again.

It sounds like you didn't strop! It's essential, and you need plenty. An experiment at SRP showed that 60 round trips were noticebly better than 30 n maintaining the edge, but it's preliminary. Although stropping doesn't sharpen the razor it makes the edge seem thinner, therefore sharper.

As a long time DE shaver, let me give you the loe down on str8s. The gurus deny it up and down, but a str8 requires some pressure and it will always have some pull compared to a DE in the hands of a skilled DE shaver. I think they forget, but I still use both and still have to adjust my attitude when I switch to one after using the other for a while. And it will be some time before your blade technique is good enough to give you a shave as good as you get with your DE. I mean the total shave, not just spots.

If you don't have the countergrain problem you described when you use a DE, you shouldn't have it with a str8, in time. The big difference is that the str8 needs constant attention. You might even have to strop in the middle of a shave, or refresh the edge slightly if it feels like it's pulling. You need to stay aware of it and don't accept a sub-par edge, because your face will pay the price. It's not as easy as changing a blade and using it for 5 days.

I don't know what equipment you have, but you should get something like a Swaty. It lets you do a few swipes and stropping to fix an edge while you're shaving. I keep one at the sink.

My suggestion would be to react when the blade feels that way, and get it really keen.

 

[Joe Lerch]

There is a big difference between the feel of a str8 and a heavy DE. You have to apply a fair amount of pressure relative to DE shaving since the weight behind the blade is quite different. Even with the sharpest blade you will feel a bit of tugging relative to a DE.

So, your experince is just like mine. You know, the vetran str8 guys won't admit that the str8 requires pressure or that it has more pull than a DE. the only one I've notice d admitting it is Chris Moss, but he's a Feather AC devotee, and they feel more like a DE than a str8.

I feel very comfortable with a str8, but it's more difficult to go against the grain. I think it's the pressure. When I use a DE or Feather I actually use less pressure against the grain, and I only do it when the whiskers are very short. The str8 blade seems to hook under the whiskers, while the safety bar keeps the DE from doing that. I found that I need to flatten the blade angle and reduce the pressure until I found the pressure where it would just work. I suppose if you whiskers are heavy enough there is no such pressure.

 

[Joe Lerch]

I used a 7/8 last night for the first time, and without any prior experience with this razor, achieved my best straight razor shave to date. Start with your cheeks, and be sure to employ good skin stretching technique. The flatter and more taut the surface, the easier for the razor to glide.

I find I'm favoring 6/8 and larger. They just feel better, but in some spots' like the mustache area, the extra control of a small razor like a 4/8 makes against the grain cutting easier. You're right stretching is important, but sometimes you have to experiment to see what kind works best.

 

[crackstar]

Scotto, get this man, I did it!!! I have a Dovo Solingen Ebony square str8, and I took my first shave with it! I picked it up today, and my barber came over and showed me the ropes, and did I ever do a good job. I first showered, prepped my face with a hot towel and plenty of hot water, and then Costa my barber guided me. I started with a generous coating of DR Harris almond cream, and I went strictly N-S, no touch-up anywhere. The only trouble I have is to stretch my skin, I've never been able to do that comfortably, but still, no nicks, no cuts, no damage, nothing. I felt a little aprehensive for the first few seconds, but Costa told me to just relax and take my time, because the worst thing to do is to try to rush a str8 shave.
He told me any time I feel I might cut myself, I should put down the razor and work with my DE. I did my cheeks first, then my upper lip, then my chin, and finally my neck. OK, granted , my shave wasn't as close as when I use my Vision, but, I know it'll get that way with time. I wouldn't be surprised if by next month, I'll be a master of the technique, again wowwww, I'm so happy!

Jeff

 

[rtaylor61]

Scotto, get this man, I did it!!! I have a Dovo Solingen Ebony square str8, and I took my first shave with it! I picked it up today, and my barber came over and showed me the ropes, and did I ever do a good job. I first showered, prepped my face with a hot towel and plenty of hot water, and then Costa my barber guided me. I started with a generous coating of DR Harris almond cream, and I went strictly N-S, no touch-up anywhere. The only trouble I have is to stretch my skin, I've never been able to do that comfortably, but still, no nicks, no cuts, no damage, nothing. I felt a little aprehensive for the first few seconds, but Costa told me to just relax and take my time, because the worst thing to do is to try to rush a str8 shave.
He told me any time I feel I might cut myself, I should put down the razor and work with my DE. I did my cheeks first, then my upper lip, then my chin, and finally my neck. OK, granted , my shave wasn't as close as when I use my Vision, but, I know it'll get that way with time. I wouldn't be surprised if by next month, I'll be a master of the technique, again wowwww, I'm so happy!

Jeff

Jeff,

Just remember, confidence is a good thing. Over-confidence is a trip to the emergency room! Congratulations on your results. And your barber is right, slow and easy.

Randy

 

[crackstar]

Randy, you're a million percent right there. I have a long way to go before I can say I know how to use this razor, I'm just a beginner. But, I'm also wide open to any advice or suggestions that anyone who's experienced can offer me. A year ago, I wouldn't have touched a str8, now I felt ready for it.
Again thanks for your encouragement!

Jeff

 

[rtaylor61]

Jeff,

I went through the same thing. I always shave with a straight when I am not in a hurry...never WHEN I am in a hurry. It's a longer process and I enjoy every minute of it.

Best of luck!

Randy