My First Restoration/Scale/Pinning/Honing/Shorty.

[Slash McCoy]

At 350f, you are really pushing the envelope on the temper. I wouldn't do this at over 300.

Looking good! I think I would have retained the full length and removed the frown rather than making a shorty, but its cool. Thumbs up.

So I got my spring pin assortment here at work and 3/32" fits the hole perfectly. I figured I'd use one of these as a sort of shim. And the 1/16" rod fits through it perfectly.... Until I drive the spring pin into the tang. It compresses the pin enough that the rod no longer fits. I had the idea to use a drill bit to effectively remove some material from the inside of the pin, but as the drill makes it's way around, the cutting edge catches the edge of the spring pin and turns the razor blade into a sort of... Projectile. So I took jKyro's advice and filled the hole with JB Weld. I let it cure, baked it at 350 for 2 hours to ensure hardness, cleaned off the excess and drilled a 5/64" hole through it, leaving .015625" clearance around the pin. Test fit on the pin now feels magnificent. Waiting on my washers now. Time to poly coat the scales and progression sand the repair area.View attachment 580466

 

[Doc226]

I use a tablespoon for whacking pin heads. I add a small amount of Red Hand (an epoxy putty we use on ships a lot for filler type repairs) into the bowl of the spoon for just the right heft.

Welcome back slash.

 

[dieseleagle04]

I use a tablespoon for whacking pin heads. I add a small amount of Red Hand (an epoxy putty we use on ships a lot for filler type repairs) into the bowl of the spoon for just the right heft.

Funny you should say that. A co-worker of mine was making fun of my small peening hammers the other day and was grabbing anything with a rounded edge that could be used to mushroom an pin. He ended up with a 1/4 short handle ratchet in one hand and a flashlight in the other. Needless to say, I'll stick with the hammers. Lol

 

[dieseleagle04]

At 350f, you are really pushing the envelope on the temper. I wouldn't do this at over 300.

Looking good! I think I would have retained the full length and removed the frown rather than making a shorty, but its cool. Thumbs up.

Good call. I didn't see any change in the color on even the edge so I think I'm safe in regards to the temper, but I'll definitely keep that in mind. I think the toaster oven I use is quite a bit off in terms of temperature as well.

 

[jKyro]

Looks like you're doing well man! Can't wait to see the final product

 

[dieseleagle04]

Thank you, sir. I'm getting my drill press this weekend so, pinning soon thereafter! I'm excited and apprehensive at the same time.

 

[jKyro]

The first one or first time trying anything with this stuff is nerve racking. But after you do one the next ones go a lot faster. Just relax and go slow. I'm sure it'll be awesome

 

[dieseleagle04]

My biggest takeaway from this experience is to not glue the wedge into place. It's make scale making process a lot more difficult from a procedural standpoint. I'm still not entirely sure how I'm going to drill and pin the wedge side.

 

[jKyro]

What do you mean?

the way I usually do the wedge is I take an inch by inch piece of material and wedge it a little bit. To roughly the same angle as the tang. I've usually already drilled the holes by now on the scales. I'll put the scale on there where I want it to go and trace it out. I then drill the hole in the wedge and cut it close. Then I put each scale and wedge on a brass rod like a shishkabob and glue it with the pin in making sure it's perfectly lined up. Let it sit then pull the rod out and sand it smooth. To whatever I want and finish the scales if I'm using wood. Then I pein and hone.

Did you glue the wedge to one side before the holes were drilled?

 

[dieseleagle04]

What do you mean?

the way I usually do the wedge is I take an inch by inch piece of material and wedge it a little bit. To roughly the same angle as the tang. I've usually already drilled the holes by now on the scales. I'll put the scale on there where I want it to go and trace it out. I then drill the hole in the wedge and cut it close. Then I put each scale and wedge on a brass rod like a shishkabob and glue it with the pin in making sure it's perfectly lined up. Let it sit then pull the rod out and sand it smooth. To whatever I want and finish the scales if I'm using wood. Then I pein and hone.

Did you glue the wedge to one side before the holes were drilled?

I sure did. Lol my thought was setting the wedge while I was finishing the scales that way it was done and looked like a cohesive piece. The wedge is not stained, but is poly coated. I'm going to use my templates I made to place the drill marks in the exact same place in the pivot side and work backwards, I guess. . Definitely a learning experience.

 

[jKyro]

How well glued in is it? If you don't wanna chance it can you take a razor blade and gently pry it off, sand, then do it the way you want to? Just an idea. Not saying you have to. I know people have done it that way and had luck.... But I think they may have already drilled the holes lol

 

[jKyro]

Worst case scenario it's a little off. You sand and re stain. Then you're golden.

 

[dieseleagle04]

Oh it's not just glued at this point. It's sealed with poly as well. I'm going to try to pry it of anyway though. We'll see what happens.

 

[jKyro]

Lol. I mean don't get all hung go about it. It was just a suggestion. There's a potential for peeling away part of the scale. Just a forewarning.